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Ruffian Price
Sep 17, 2016

bird with big dick posted:

The truth is funnier than my fiction in this case: that picture is in user reviews on best buys website.

well yeah if you go to user->reviews it'll show you the history

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Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
I've had a 3.1 system for a while now.

Thought it was time for an upgrade, and Ascend has their CBM-170SE in B-stock for $312/pair.

Adding surround speakers is so cool! Totally worth the upgrade if you have the room. I haven't been to a movie theater in 5+ years, I had forgotten how much more immersive this makes movies.

McGurk
Oct 20, 2004

Cuz life sucks, kids. Get it while you can.

My Onkyo TX-NR777 started producing a buzzing/humming noise from the speakers that I can't seem to get rid of. I've tried all the ground loop fixes I can find, different cables, turning off ARC, switching to direct inputs, etc. We had some electrical work done on the house recently which is the only thing I can think of that's changed. It's also been weird with the Apple TV 4K (guessing CEC issues since it turns back on and off quickly when I shut everything off) and sometimes makes a very loud buzzing at that point. Is it worth more troubleshooting? It's 5 years old but was working fine until recently.

The Perfect Element
Dec 5, 2005
"This is a bit of a... a poof song"
Sorry, very ignorant query time! I have got some shelf speakers with bi-wiring capabilities, and an amp with just a single connection for each channel. What is the best/cheapest way to bi wire my speakers? I have loads of standard audio cable, but I can't figure out how I'd some how split that to bi wire it, so I guess I need to buy special cable like this ? If that's the case, how do I handle the amp end of the connection when I've only got one port to plug into?

Everything online is surprisingly opaque about how to achieve this fairly basic task.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

The Perfect Element posted:

Sorry, very ignorant query time! I have got some shelf speakers with bi-wiring capabilities, and an amp with just a single connection for each channel. What is the best/cheapest way to bi wire my speakers? I have loads of standard audio cable, but I can't figure out how I'd some how split that to bi wire it, so I guess I need to buy special cable like this ? If that's the case, how do I handle the amp end of the connection when I've only got one port to plug into?

Everything online is surprisingly opaque about how to achieve this fairly basic task.

Don’t

Biwiring is a scam. It does nothing of value and causes problems and can actually gently caress up your equipment if you cause a short, etc.

Leave the jumpers/plates on the back of the speaker where they are.

Bi-amping, where you use separate amps or amp channels to run your tweeters and woofers, can be used in exceedingly rare occasions, but mostly it’s just there to grab money from guys who buy receivers with more channels than they need and set them to “bi-amp” thinking they’ll get noticeably more power out of their front channels.

The Perfect Element
Dec 5, 2005
"This is a bit of a... a poof song"

trilobite terror posted:

Don’t

Biwiring is a scam. It does nothing of value and causes problems and can actually gently caress up your equipment if you cause a short, etc.

Leave the jumpers/plates on the back of the speaker where they are.

Bi-amping, where you use separate amps or amp channels to run your tweeters and woofers, can be used in exceedingly rare occasions, but mostly it’s just there to grab money from guys who buy receivers with more channels than they need and set them to “bi-amp” thinking they’ll get noticeably more power out of their front channels.

Thanks! I guess I'll just leave it then, unless the goon hive mind disagrees with you and persuades me otherwise.

Just to clarify though, I wouldn't have to gently caress with the speakers at all to bi wire. They just have 4x ports to plug wires into already.

aparmenideanmonad
Jan 28, 2004
Balls to you and your way of mortal opinions - you don't exist anyway!
Fun Shoe
There is no benefit to biwiring.

Unless of course you buy these special cables that cost 2x as much as your speakers and use artisanal copper mined by monks who toil under a vow of silence. You'll totally be able to hear the difference!

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
Biwiring is a scam. Any sufficient speaker wire (such as the Amazon basics 16 ga. Speaker wire, for instance) will do fine. Just make sure the bridging pin/bar/whatever yours is, is connected between the "treble" and "bass" input on the speaker.

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
this is specific to a ps4 (and later ps5):

what does the bluetooth audio that comes from your controller's audio jack actually support? do i want to use pcm or bitstream on a ps4 in that case? normally i'd say pcm for high-bitrate stereo, but i have no idea how the audio over bluetooth works

for a ps5, i'm guessing that bitstream is easier since the ps5 can probably convert most of what you throw at it to stereo

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

The Perfect Element posted:

Thanks! I guess I'll just leave it then, unless the goon hive mind disagrees with you and persuades me otherwise.

Just to clarify though, I wouldn't have to gently caress with the speakers at all to bi wire. They just have 4x ports to plug wires into already.

did you buy your speakers used? What speakers do you have?

Speakers that have the capacity to biwire/biamp should have some kind of jumper (usually it’s a metal plate that comes screwed in) connecting both sets of ports—and therefore your tweeter + woofer, etc— to the same circuit.

Sometimes it’s a plate, rarely it’s some kind of cable jumper dealie. Exceedingly rarely there’s some kind of internal switching mechanism. The point is you want to make sure it’s in place unless you are wiring your hi and low channel separately, in which case you want to be sure to remove it so you don’t bypass your speaker/fry your gear.

Some speakers, like the newer Jamos, have what looks like four jumpers for bi-amping/wiring, but actually the top pair of jumpers connects to special pins in the top of the speaker in order to allow you to run special upward-firing atmos speakers without hanging unsightly cables off of the back. You’re supposed to plug everything through the bottom of the cabinet to make it look cleaner.

Do you happen to have the instruction manual for your speakers? It should tell you everything.

Ruffian Price
Sep 17, 2016

kliras posted:

this is specific to a ps4 (and later ps5):

what does the bluetooth audio that comes from your controller's audio jack actually support? do i want to use pcm or bitstream on a ps4 in that case? normally i'd say pcm for high-bitrate stereo, but i have no idea how the audio over bluetooth works

for a ps5, i'm guessing that bitstream is easier since the ps5 can probably convert most of what you throw at it to stereo

Bluetooth audio is compressed stereo and cannot support any kinda bitstream, that option is for the HDMI output - do you want to decode to PCM on the console or the downstream device

kliras
Mar 27, 2021

Ruffian Price posted:

Bluetooth audio is compressed stereo and cannot support any kinda bitstream, that option is for the HDMI output - do you want to decode to PCM on the console or the downstream device
i don't have any audio devices other than the ps4 and lg c1. ideally i want to sometime watch on the tv speakers and sometimes on headphones by connecting them to the dualshock controller (since i don't like hooking up wired headphones to an expensive tv i'm gonna knock down eventually)

in this particular case, i just wanna listen to the ps4 movies using headphones connected to the ds4 controller, in whichever quality sounds and works the best

Ruffian Price
Sep 17, 2016

In that case set the console to bitstream so the C1 can do surround virtualization on the input. No fussing should be needed for controller audio (which on console is over 2.4G, not Bluetooth btw) because AFAIK none of the system audio settings affect that, connect headphones to the controller and you get one stereo mix. Now on PS5 you can of course have the Tempest virtualizer turned on or off.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Yeah as far as I know the PS4/PS5 controller audio is a dedicated thing you can't configure.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

bird with big dick posted:

I bought some fancy stands that should be about right.

At first I wanted blue and then I was going to get the gray because I like the red drivers but then I decided to get white. White desk, white stands, white speaker, white sub, white user.

I finally had to give up on my Best Buy order for the white, had been over three weeks and no movement at all. Seems like the white ones are basically OOS nationwide. So I ordered the Titanium ones through Crutchfield and had them in two days.





Just got them set up so no real impressions so far other than they look great and seem to be of quality construction.

McGurk
Oct 20, 2004

Cuz life sucks, kids. Get it while you can.

I grabbed the Denon that Costco always has and it got rid of the buzzing noise. Sorry old Onkyo but you’re outta here.

Foppish Yet Dashing
Jun 29, 2004

-horsepussy begins now
-horsepussy begins now
-horsepussy begins now
-horsepussy begins now
-horsepussy begins now
-horsepussy begins now

McGurk posted:

I grabbed the Denon that Costco always has and it got rid of the buzzing noise. Sorry old Onkyo but you’re outta here.

That Denon is currently $100 off. I just bought one last night.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
Does anyone have suggestions for the following:

I need a small form factor amplifier to power 2 bookshelf speakers, that DOES NOT have a volume control. I want just basic RCA in and power out with a fixed amplification level. I am not even sure what hte right search terms are to get this, most of what I find has some form of eq and or volume control.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

emocrat posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for the following:

I need a small form factor amplifier to power 2 bookshelf speakers, that DOES NOT have a volume control. I want just basic RCA in and power out with a fixed amplification level. I am not even sure what hte right search terms are to get this, most of what I find has some form of eq and or volume control.

Emotiva

Schiit

both have what you’re looking for

other brands too (Marantz?)

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

trilobite terror posted:

Emotiva

Schiit

both have what you’re looking for

other brands too (Marantz?)

Thanks, Emotiva as far as I can tell only has traditional full size devices and space is what I am trying to save here. However Schiit does seem to sell exactly what I want.

Does anyone have experience with the REKKR or GJALLARHORN amps they sell? I am fully aware that I do not need 100 watts per channel and im not really ever approaching using that much in normal use, however, 2 watts seems just... really little. Any feedback appreciated.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

emocrat posted:

Thanks, Emotiva as far as I can tell only has traditional full size devices and space is what I am trying to save here. However Schiit does seem to sell exactly what I want.

Does anyone have experience with the REKKR or GJALLARHORN amps they sell? I am fully aware that I do not need 100 watts per channel and im not really ever approaching using that much in normal use, however, 2 watts seems just... really little. Any feedback appreciated.

Which speakers do you have? It depends on the sensitivity of them.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

Mederlock posted:

Which speakers do you have? It depends on the sensitivity of them.

This will be powering a pair of 20 year old wharfedale diamond 8.2s. they do not need to go crazy, but I would like them not to be kneecapped. Especially if I am spending a few hundred on the amp.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

emocrat posted:

Thanks, Emotiva as far as I can tell only has traditional full size devices and space is what I am trying to save here. However Schiit does seem to sell exactly what I want.

Does anyone have experience with the REKKR or GJALLARHORN amps they sell? I am fully aware that I do not need 100 watts per channel and im not really ever approaching using that much in normal use, however, 2 watts seems just... really little. Any feedback appreciated.

last I checked Emotiva had some small-footprint and also half-size power amps but they may have discontinued them.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

emocrat posted:

This will be powering a pair of 20 year old wharfedale diamond 8.2s. they do not need to go crazy, but I would like them not to be kneecapped. Especially if I am spending a few hundred on the amp.

Best I can tell from a cursory search, those are 89 db sensitivity speakers. The 10W Gjallarhorn might be enough for that, the REKKR probably would leave you feeling underwhelmed at times. What's your use case? Are these being used in a near field setup like at your computer desk? Or do they need to fill a room with sound for the occasional social gathering/party and/or do you like cranking the volume at times?

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

Mederlock posted:

Best I can tell from a cursory search, those are 89 db sensitivity speakers. The 10W Gjallarhorn might be enough for that, the REKKR probably would leave you feeling underwhelmed at times. What's your use case? Are these being used in a near field setup like at your computer desk? Or do they need to fill a room with sound for the occasional social gathering/party and/or do you like cranking the volume at times?

It's for a sunroom/living room space. Not huge but decently open and a 10 foot ceiling. Speakers are on a bookshelf above head height. Doesn't need to rock a party but we do like to play stuff a bit louder when we are like, cleaning the house.

Sounds like for the Schiit line id probly need to move the video, but I can't justify 800 for this really

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Just get a Fosi Audio V3 or something, set the volume and don't touch the knob after that.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
I realize that this will technically work, however I consider it a solution of last resort. I would vastly prefer to solve the problem within the confines of the original proposal, even if that means paying more, but 800 is past that point. Chalk it up to me being an idiot, thats fine.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
what if you got like a Crown amp? They seem big because they’re rackmount but they’re quite shallow and super lightweight for an amp, and they run pretty cold so you can lock one in a closet or tuck it into an entertainment unit (they need air tho), and they sound fine for all that ppl talk poo poo on Class D and they make stupid obscene power so you’ll never want on that front

Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom
College Slice
Sounds like a perfect use case for one of the Fosi or similar chip amps. Most have a volume control, but small enough that you can set it and shove it behind something so it never gets touched.

Example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtiPjko

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

emocrat posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for the following:

I need a small form factor amplifier to power 2 bookshelf speakers, that DOES NOT have a volume control. I want just basic RCA in and power out with a fixed amplification level. I am not even sure what hte right search terms are to get this, most of what I find has some form of eq and or volume control.

https://nadelectronics.com/product/amp1/

I'd take that over a fosi or similar. Leave the volume control alone after setting it to the desired volume level.

What's the intended audio source?

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

trilobite terror posted:

what if you got like a Crown amp? They seem big because they’re rackmount but they’re quite shallow and super lightweight for an amp, and they run pretty cold so you can lock one in a closet or tuck it into an entertainment unit (they need air tho), and they sound fine for all that ppl talk poo poo on Class D and they make stupid obscene power so you’ll never want on that front

I will check this out, thanks.

Don Dongington posted:

Sounds like a perfect use case for one of the Fosi or similar chip amps. Most have a volume control, but small enough that you can set it and shove it behind something so it never gets touched.

Example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtiPjko

I agree its a very good use case, especially for the cost, as mentioned above though I would prefer it with no volume control (which I get is kinda dumb), but this is probably my fallback choice.

Wibla posted:

https://nadelectronics.com/product/amp1/

I'd take that over a fosi or similar. Leave the volume control alone after setting it to the desired volume level.

What's the intended audio source?

Looks real nice, but unfortunately it seems to only be available in Europe for some reason and I am in the US.
The source is a Sonos port (that I already have and use). Currently powered by an older Rotel amp I have that works fine, but it takes up a large portion of hte bookcase and we are trying to reclaim some space.

McGurk
Oct 20, 2004

Cuz life sucks, kids. Get it while you can.

Foppish Yet Dashing posted:

That Denon is currently $100 off. I just bought one last night.

Thanks - costco gave me the $30 back

Oryp
Jun 5, 2004

I finally jumped on a system, thanks to the thread's recommendations a month or two ago. This will pair with a PS5 and a LG C3.

Waiting for this to come in:
Denon S970H
Kef Q150 L/R
Used Kef Q350 single as a center
Have a subwoofer from my office I'll move out... I think a Polk 10"

Nothing else for now, but I'll get some small speakers for surround and then height eventually.

Does speaker wire type matter at all? Anything else I need?

Oryp fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Dec 31, 2023

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
That bigger center channel driver would drive me nuts

Oryp
Jun 5, 2004

Eh, I got it for $200, if I hate it I can resell.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Oryp posted:

Does speaker wire type matter at all? Anything else I need?

just get like decent 16 or 14 gauge and you’re set. Monoprice, Amazon, whatever

Don’t repurpose garage door sensor wire like I did once as a teen (yes it worked, and the speakers I used it with were pretty poo poo, but it was the thinnest like 24 gauge stuff, not rly pleasant to set up or work with for all that it did the job I guess)

Oryp
Jun 5, 2004

Thanks for the speaker wire confirmation.
Also, I already pulled the trigger on the receiver and the Q150s, hadn't actually confirmed the single Q350 when I posted. I checked A4L and they had a Q150 for the same price with a 5 year warranty, so I'll go for that instead of risking a local, used unit.

aparmenideanmonad
Jan 28, 2004
Balls to you and your way of mortal opinions - you don't exist anyway!
Fun Shoe

Oryp posted:

Thanks for the speaker wire confirmation.
Also, I already pulled the trigger on the receiver and the Q150s, hadn't actually confirmed the single Q350 when I posted. I checked A4L and they had a Q150 for the same price with a 5 year warranty, so I'll go for that instead of risking a local, used unit.

FWIW the used 350 was a good idea, but agreed that all 150s is the better option.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Oryp posted:

I finally jumped on a system, thanks to the thread's recommendations a month or two ago. This will pair with a PS5 and a LG C3.

Waiting for this to come in:
Denon S970H
Kef Q150 L/R
Used Kef Q350 single as a center
Have a subwoofer from my office I'll move out... I think a Polk 10"

Nothing else for now, but I'll get some small speakers for surround and then height eventually.

Does speaker wire type matter at all? Anything else I need?

Just Amazonbasics 14ga or 16ga speaker wire or the equivalent is fine. All copper wire is the main thing, some manufacturers like to mix in some shiny pot metal to shave some more margin. For longer runs, you might want the 14ga. For anything close to the receiver 16ga is well more than enough. This is probably a good chart

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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

aparmenideanmonad posted:

FWIW the used 350 was a good idea, but agreed that all 150s is the better option.

yeah, I thought about it and decided it could look pretty cool

I wonder how two white/two black plus a wood grain or the inverse would look

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