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MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Got a clunk on the back end of the NB so I've fired the parts cannon seeing as the majority of the parts currently on there are anything up to a quarter century old.

Shopping list was:

Adjustable upper control arms
Refurbed lower control arms
Powerflex road bushings for all of the above
HSD coilovers

At some point I want to swap out the rear subframe and I need to replace the crusty-rear end rear brace under there too but this is already more money than I really wanted to spent on this shitbox. So suspension wise the only thing that won't have been replaced on this car is the front upper control arms *edit: and rear anti-roll bar. All the braking components were swapped last year too. The car still looks like poo poo. FML.

Front sway bar bushings fixed the clunk I had in my Mazdaspeed3. I would definitely replace the swaybar bushings and endlinks while you're there.

I also put in greasable Moog endlinks on the MS3 and that was pretty annoying because I needed to grease those regularly too, or they would clunk. (although I discovered that the stiffer rear sway bar was too much for the factory endlinks so I didn't have much of a choice.)

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
adjustable upper control arms?

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


MetaJew posted:

Front sway bar bushings fixed the clunk I had in my Mazdaspeed3. I would definitely replace the swaybar bushings and endlinks while you're there.

I also put in greasable Moog endlinks on the MS3 and that was pretty annoying because I needed to grease those regularly too, or they would clunk. (although I discovered that the stiffer rear sway bar was too much for the factory endlinks so I didn't have much of a choice.)

Sway bar bushings were replaced last year and re-greased not long ago. The end links are also under a year old and in spotless condition so I highly doubt it's those either on inspection. I'm fairly certain it's the coil but the bushings generally look like poo poo too so gently caress it.

Phone posted:

adjustable upper control arms?

Yeah, rear ones. I've read Miats naturally add camber if lowering them so these allow adjustment to fix this to stop you killing tyres as quickly if required. Plus OEM ones are a good £100 more expensive overall hence adjustable :v:

Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Nov 21, 2023

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
i'm back in love with my miata and it's because i went to drive a mazdaspeed 3 today

a: the 3 was too fast
b: they had a fuckin front mount and all this poo poo on it "yeah its been tuned" but didnt have any maint records
c: this car, no poo poo, was so loving fast
d: they had no info on any servicing of the vvt, timing chain, or hpfp, which are all super necessary for a boosted 3
e: i reiterate - i gave it like 40% throttle in 2nd and i was going 70mph in like four seconds
f: paint was chippy, interior body panels were spray painted, aftermarket shift knob (huge red flag for me)
g: i could not see actually doing anything in it but getting seven hundred dollar speeding tickets or killing myself
h: this was their country house and they were looking to free up garage space for another ferrari or something, they clearly treat cars as disposable/flippable toys


Was a neat car, but not $12k of neat car.

miata remains the answer

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Jonny 290 posted:

miata remains the answer

Now boost it. $12k would buy you a lot of boost.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
I originally looked at that MS3 because i was pricing out the ND2 supercharger kits, but from all the chatter i've read they haven't figured out fueling yet for more than 220hp on pump gas (injector capped i think?) and the other thing is that i really want to keep this thing as stockish as possible.

I have absolutely considered picking up an nd2 ragtop and putting FI of some sort on that, once they nail down the engineering side, but the RF is staying pretty stock.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
I like to vary my drives between a stock NA Miata and a stock E92 M3 and I'm pretty sure that Mazda isn't that faster than your Miata but it probably has stiffer motor mounts.

Ether Frenzy fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Nov 23, 2023

Fish Cake
Jun 13, 2008

woof
been daily driving with the rule of "if its not actively raining the top is down" and now that we're headed into winter the heated seats are nice but my hands are cold.

anyone got any recommendations for driving gloves? no need for anything too bulky since this is california and it doesn't really get colder than 40F

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp

Fish Cake posted:

been daily driving with the rule of "if its not actively raining the top is down" =

I don't have glove recs beyond maybe look towards some gloves suited for active outdoor sports - climbing or something? IDK. I always remember that a lot of autocross miata dorks run boxing shoes because you get really good pedal feel, so that's where that suggestion comes from.

Anyways, i was out in 36F with the ND top down this morning, it's the best. Seat heaters up, blast the heat on the feet, put on a hoodie and beanie and be That Dude. RF's almost suck because the top up situation is so cozy, like it's such a cute and tight cabin, but the vibes with the top down are so good. its very much a 2 buttons meme situation in the vast majority of cases. The only sitch where i actually lean top up are when it's 90F or more outside and i really, really need the AC to survive.

Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Nov 23, 2023

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.

Fish Cake posted:

been daily driving with the rule of "if its not actively raining the top is down" and now that we're headed into winter the heated seats are nice but my hands are cold.

anyone got any recommendations for driving gloves? no need for anything too bulky since this is california and it doesn't really get colder than 40F

https://texasgoodgloves.com/collections/geier-gloves/Driving-Gloves

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Just lost out on a great deal for an NB2, original owner 130k miles and pretty nice condition for $3700.

The seller was an older guy and wasn't communicating very well so by the time I got there someone else got there literally a minute before me and nabbed it, even tho I had cash in hand and the first guy didn't, seller is giving him the opportunity to get some so maybe if I luck out the guy will flake but I doubt it.

[edit] The seller called me to tell me he's taking it off the market because his son wants it, aka I'm taking it off the market because I priced it too low and will relist it at a higher price

This is what happens when people don't bring cash to good deals lol

Could have been worse lol.

Meanwhile I've been replacing the speakers in my NB. Turns out Alpine has some 8" component speakers that are cheap and fit the door opening no problem so that was a nice find. Yes yes I know car audio in a convertible is almost pointless but I couldn't resist. Does the NC also have 8" speakers in the door?

Coredump fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 24, 2023

Nodoze
Aug 17, 2006

If it's only for a night I can live without you

Jonny 290 posted:

i'm back in love with my miata and it's because i went to drive a mazdaspeed 3 today

a: the 3 was too fast
b: they had a fuckin front mount and all this poo poo on it "yeah its been tuned" but didnt have any maint records
c: this car, no poo poo, was so loving fast
d: they had no info on any servicing of the vvt, timing chain, or hpfp, which are all super necessary for a boosted 3
e: i reiterate - i gave it like 40% throttle in 2nd and i was going 70mph in like four seconds
f: paint was chippy, interior body panels were spray painted, aftermarket shift knob (huge red flag for me)
g: i could not see actually doing anything in it but getting seven hundred dollar speeding tickets or killing myself
h: this was their country house and they were looking to free up garage space for another ferrari or something, they clearly treat cars as disposable/flippable toys


Was a neat car, but not $12k of neat car.

miata remains the answer

Having driven both a miata and my s2000 right after test driving one, I get exactly what you mean. I felt like I was driving way faster than I was afterward because I didn't have to worry about torque steer and the car is kind of dead inside comparatively. A couple times I've thought about getting a MS3 but they are total basket cases if you don't take care of them right and I would never buy a modified one which eliminates most of them right off the bat. It's one of those cars I like the idea of owning but probably never will

now I go look for used ones because my curiosity has been piqued again

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

I thought the upgrade path was from Miata to Corvette.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
really more than anything it was the interior feel. i know a bunch of youtuber guys deem the nd interior as 'cheap' but it's so much nicer than a rattletrap 15 year old 3. spoiled myself

Fish Cake
Jun 13, 2008

woof
Installed the mx5things window controller because I kept forgetting to fully raise the windows after putting up the roof. Those door trim clips are a real bitch and a half

Applesnots
Oct 22, 2010

MERRY YOBMAS

Got a question for you guys. Lil' Beefy keeps on beefing.

Well, up unto a week ago. I replaced the slave cylinder for the clutch sometime last year. Bled it, everything was fine. Cool.
Well I was driving home the other day and the clutch felit a little sloppy, got it home. Now It will not shift into any gear at all. It will start Clutch down and in neutral. I can pump the clutch a million times and it will not build pressure at all nor will it let me shift into any gear, no grinding just wont go it to gear. Fluid is full and does not go down when I pump the clutch.

So I guess my main question is Did I blow a slave cylinder and just replace that again or did I just not bleed it well enough? Or is it the master cylinder hosed and I get to replace that? I just don't which one I should I replace. Money is tight and I dont want to buy the wrong one. The dot3 is kind of dark in the reservoir. Also we had a bad cold snap, dunno if that means anything. Thanks!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


You probably didn't bleed it enough.

I bled mine and then next day I needed to bleed some more. The ➰ makes it hard to bleed correctly. Or your Master has died.

Applesnots
Oct 22, 2010

MERRY YOBMAS

tater_salad posted:

You probably didn't bleed it enough.

I bled mine and then next day I needed to bleed some more. The ➰ makes it hard to bleed correctly. Or your Master has died.

Yeah that stupid little loop

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


I replaced the loop hard line with a braided HEL line when I replaced the master and slace cylinders. It was a £20 buy and sounds like it was a great purchase.

In other news I've replaced the rear upper and lower control arms and have a nice set of HSDs doing the springy damping work. Everything feels so tight with the poly bushes, it has transformed the car though I will say until I get the tracking done and the damping tweaked I will reserve judgement on whether it's better or not.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
yeah, just replace the clutch line with a stainless line if you don't have access to a power/pressure bleeder

Teach
Mar 28, 2008


Pillbug
Great, now I want a BBR Supercharger conversion. I saw this one out in the wild today. (I know that's a turbo, but I really want a supercharger conversion.)

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice
Does it have to be a BBR supercharger? Fab9 sells an HKS system and an Edelbrock system, and Miataspeed sells an ND1 Edelbrock system (carb legal!) and an ND2 edelbrock system (carb pending, hopefully!), so the only thing standing between you and your supercharged dreams is thousands of dollars worth of parts, labor costs, and transmission repairs!

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Do people boost the 1.5L NDs? And if so do they have the transmission issues? [I assume it's the same transmission?]

Isolationist
Oct 18, 2005

The implication.
Jumping in as forum BBR hater (having spent a bunch on their gear, full Super200 kit incl engine back exhaust) - friends don't let friends buy BBR.

I track with a guy with a stock 2L ND2 and an AVO turbo 1.5L. No gearbox issues thus far on the 1.5L, and he's putting out identical numbers to my dyno tuned and built (but NA) ND1. When I ask him if he'd do it again he says no, the heat management is a nightmare and there were a lot of modifications he felt he shouldn't have needed to make in chasing gremlins out of the whole setup.

Dude's quick though, almost exactly the same lap times as me (though he runs shorter sessions).

Teach
Mar 28, 2008


Pillbug
Thanks for the replies - I'll let my urges be calmed...

Had a lovely run out today in the rain. It eased off to a light drizzle as the car got up to temperature, and I left the top up, both windows down, and it was a good place to be.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I still remember the cool SC noises from the Ariel Atom I drove once, and the supercharged Elise I saw at an autocross. I don't think I would want to deal with the added cost and issues that come with doing it tho...

I watched the Engineering Explained install of the Edelbrock supercharger and it seemed pretty poorly designed. Lots of hoses and cables running through areas where they could easily be damaged by moving parts and sharp edges.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOQtbwyFV4g

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Took the NB in for an MOT today and it failed on emissions again. I took a look at the history and it has been doing the same year on year since 2009 😎

Some 6k action up and down the dual carriageway later on and a pass was achieved.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Known as an Italian Tune-up.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I thought it was common knowledge to always do an italian tuneup before MOT :shrug:

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Speaking of which - this is my first direct injection engine. Do i need to worry about intake cleaning or what's the deal there? (im at 15500 mi)

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Wibla posted:

I thought it was common knowledge to always do an italian tuneup before MOT :shrug:

The car was hot but not 6000rpm in 4th hot the first time round :v:

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

Jonny 290 posted:

Speaking of which - this is my first direct injection engine. Do i need to worry about intake cleaning or what's the deal there? (im at 15500 mi)

no. the skyactiv motor was designed to have very high cylinder temps, so carbon doesn't build up on the backside of the valves.

e: it's probably worth doing a clean up when you replace the spark plugs, but i still haven't yet... i think im at like 41k miles maybe?

Phone fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Dec 20, 2023

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Happy new year, miats

Pic of the year for me.




i can't ever possibly imagine not having it even for a second.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Went for a drive with the top down because it was sunny and dry, spotted one other MX5, an ND but roof up. Shout out to the Caterham and passenger for giving a roofless wave though.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Looking for seat and rail combo for regular driving and autocross eventually. Ideally I'd like it to sit lower than stock because I'm tall. I wanna say true chaos had a recommendation for me at one point (possibly in the misc racing discord).

Edit: na6. Sorry thought I put that in my post.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jan 17, 2024

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

tater_salad posted:

Looking for seat and rail combo for regular driving and autocross eventually. Ideally I'd like it to sit lower than stock because I'm tall. I wanna say true chaos had a recommendation for me at one point (possibly in the misc racing discord).

What generation do you have?

I have the Paco seat rails in my ND2. Somewhat tedious to install if you have big hands, but they lower the seat a good amount. They are not adjustable without a wrench.

Another goon had the Aurora(?) adjustable lowered seat rails. He sold his Miata and never installed the rails. Not sure if he still has them but maybe he will see this post.

They look much more complicated to install and require cutting up parts of the factory seat bracket.

Edit: oh you're talking about installing aftermarket seats. Forget what I said.

I have a friend who tracks his ND and has aftermarket seats and rails. I can reach out to him for details.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Updated my post. Yeah looking for an aftermarket seat because when doing autocross I really spend a lot of time hanging onto the wheel because the OEM seats don't really grab you well.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




tater_salad posted:

Looking for seat and rail combo for regular driving and autocross eventually. Ideally I'd like it to sit lower than stock because I'm tall. I wanna say true chaos had a recommendation for me at one point (possibly in the misc racing discord).

Edit: na6. Sorry thought I put that in my post.

The 'easy' solution is a sparco sprint and a PCI seat mount. They have a couple versions, I had the one piece lowest of the low, and was under my rollbar by about an inch at 6' tall.

I ran it for years, but it's not the most comfortable for longer drives. I grabbed an OMP HTE-R 400, and it's wonderful. I still have some work to do on the mounting position, but it is lightyears more comfortable. Bit of a different price point though.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Don't seem people weld-in a lowered floor pan in the NA to get a very low seat position?

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Isolationist
Oct 18, 2005

The implication.

MetaJew posted:

Aurora(?) adjustable lowered seat rails.

Not applicable in this instance (going aftermarket seat) , but I have the Aurora/Blackbird Fab works lowering kit on my ND and I've previously installed and removed the Paco: Paco may get you lower but is a bastard to shift around, and it turned out uncomfortable as poo poo to me as you end up on an odd angle (pitched forward) and no longer really pointed 'at' the wheel, instead a bit off centre.

Aurora is much better in both respects, the downside is: it's noisy. I did a 6,000 km camping trip right after installing it and came back driving cautiously as I thought something had broken internally/come lose. Bit of rattling, the thigh support bar ends up able to be pulled up and down a little (maybe a quarter inch of play) etc. Still worth it, I'll not be swapping back to stock or the pacos.

I've got a radiator and a mishimoto oil cooler going in next week in time for an upcoming track day in 45 degree heat (113f), bloody hell FL22 coolant is $150 USD in Australia - nightmare!

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