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Ziploc posted:A dropped (don't they mean collapsed?) lifter would be clacking all the time. Yeah, noise on deceleration is a new one for me.
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May 10, 2010 18:03
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How hard of a knock were you hearing? Hard load slight pinging isn't too horrible on those, but back a bit more off the map, the timing temp-retard is for turbo cars and isn't really strong enough to act as a ghetto knock predictor.
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Jul 3, 2010 00:49
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Vitamin J posted:Thanks for the link, I've been there before its just that most of those are for lower compression motors. Oh, its great for what its meant to do, but you're reaching into band-aid territory, its meant to help prevent sustained detonation in abnormal engine operating conditions, not to keep lack of proper tuning in check. Log a few times when it does happen, remove all the temp-ignition retard and tune it that way, then use it as a corrector for obscene conditions like 200F intake temps and stuff that could theoretically happen.
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Jul 3, 2010 01:36
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I had a 9lb flywheel in my GTX (same 1.6) and it made it noticeably better overall. 7 Pounds is getting pretty low, that might cause some issues with idle-up responsiveness if you do lots of a/c and power steering work at idle.
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Jul 13, 2010 18:44
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That is a bit long for a belt run, and I'm not really a fan of your belt mount angle, I've read multiple places it should never be more than 15deg from horizontal. It might just be the angles I'm seeing with your photography.
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Aug 12, 2010 03:54
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poisoned pie posted:assuming anchors are all legit, those belts would have zero issues passing scrutineering at any MSNZ event. I'm right, there's no dick-ness with safety. Ever. If you have a sanctioning body made up of weekend warriors, thats fine. But its their rear end if someone decides to even glance at any installation manual for any race harness or a sanctioning bodies' engineering rulebook and notices the discrepancy between the installation and the rules. Anchors don't mean poo poo if it breaks your spine in a crash. Even factory anchoring points can become unusable with significant changes in seating position. The regulations for non-stock anchoring points are very specific, as well as the requuirements for car manufacturers' OE points. I use all OE points but had my cage and seat put in at the same time to have no issues with belting. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 20:03
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I just got a free Miata (okay it was $2.75). Its Krakkles' rusty beater 91. It leaks coolant from the front end badly, and timing belt age is unknown, so whats the word on a kit like this? I have experience with shortnose crank cars (I own a 323 GTX which is also shortnose) and can deal with them properly. Any other snags I should be aware about? Any shortcuts?
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Aug 19, 2010 23:00
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ECUs don't really adjust. They can vary fuel trims small amounts, but WOT fuel is WOT fuelling. I doubt the stock ECU will compensate, as it wasn't designed to. It will fuel versus the air it sees versus what the desginers put in as VE against MAF voltage (directly proportional to airflow), but once (if) it increases past the MAF's voltage limit, it won't see any air above that. Not to worry, you probably aren't increasing the power output enough to matter to VE, and hence AFR.
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Aug 24, 2010 03:29
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I don't really think you'll be too much more lean, MAF setups ususally can understand the tiny bit better airflow. If it was a MAP setup, I'd have more cause for concern. Miatas are a badly programmed beast for fuel maps, going open loop above 4000, super rich at WOT, all sorts of funny things going on. There's probably plenty of fuel lying around in the tables it can still address or at least extra overages in those same values against stock VE.
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Aug 26, 2010 17:22
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I found a Team Miata Hood Lift Kit in my car stuff, haven't the faintest clue how I got it. I think its used, but not sure. They're $45+shipping now, so like $30 shipped? I'll have to come up with a way to keep it compressed, its a good 22" long extended (I know you're salivating now, Mr. Mrs. Miata!)
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Aug 29, 2010 00:16
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Phone posted:The 2001 VVT motor you can find for sub-1000 all day long. There's a local guy selling one with sub-60k for $750ish. It's not that expensive in the grand scheme of things because it's a lot more reliable, but it's not that much power. Lets say 170-ish hp N/A, versus 250hp for the same cost. Miles more torque and engine durability with the turbo, as doubling the air inside only really increases the peak cylinder pressures by about 40%. Turbo engines are easier to make mild, using stock cams with no issues. The Miata engine can never really rev since its a bit undersquare, limiting the ultimate piston speeds. Does the VVT make that big of a difference? The VVT on the Miata is a strong term for a single changeover intake, its no more complicated than the earliest of Honda systems 23-odd years ago. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 16:07
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FatCow posted:Too lazy to rehost If you can't be bothered enough to rehost an image I can't see at all, then your argument is a little silly. Different ECU? Its not even the same thing anymore, nobody spent the time to clone the factory VVT settings, so its whatever some guys with a dyno came up with. Thats like saying yeah its a 1.8L ish engine, t24ish turbo, 4ish cylinders. Intake VVT looks to make some power (properly utilised with thousands of hours of map development time, but that doesn't mean the factory made the same power with the same hard, being constrained by economy, engine wear, and emissions!) Is the current 2.0L NC engine equipped with intake and exhaust timing? edit: nice low end bump on the VVT!
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Sep 3, 2010 15:59
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Auto Zone checks them for free. Not in California they don't (aren't supposed to so YMMV).
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Sep 4, 2010 00:57
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I suppose the reasoning is so people don't clear codes and then go smog their cars. Not like that would really work anyway, serious code erasures reset their own emissions flags. There's 32 MILLION cars registered in CA, sorry if your state has about 31.5 million less? DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Sep 4, 2010 |
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Sep 4, 2010 03:18
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Phone posted:I thought that the way that OBD2 worked was that if it's related to emissions, there's a certain time/distance trigger that sets off a big red flag if assholes are resetting codes in the parking lot. Thats an emission requirement, flag length is set by the car manufacturer. Drive cycles have to be done against certain requirements to reset certain flags.
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Sep 4, 2010 03:28
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I got a Tsudo N1 exhaust off a Miata that was in a gangbang (front and rear smashed) and although it held up somewhat, I'll have to reweld the muffler seams and replace in inlet elbow. The build quality looks alright. There's also the header still on the car, anyone in the Bay Area want it? Its at the San leandro Pick N Pull in about the 5th Row of the Import section.
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Sep 28, 2010 03:02
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Piano posted:Miataturbo is just wierd. Log Cabin Republicans. Great info, though.
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Oct 6, 2010 05:31
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aventari posted:I notice a few horsepower gain when going with an open cat. But they're not that heavy Butt dyno? Real dyno? Awesome you can find a few hundred watts out from somewhere around 115,000W. There's little evidence of cats actually costing power in terms of ultimate gasflow or backpressure at lower power levels on cars with decent exhaust designs (Miatas stock exhaust is quite good other than the manifold). The post-turbo velocity on a miata is quite high with a decent downpipe(NA with header is similar)and due to its logitudinal design tends to sail through low-restriction stuff like cats.
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Oct 18, 2010 17:31
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Packet Loss posted:My new Miata (it's cute) Turbo timers remove just about all immobilisation/security features available in a modern car, making your miata a top-slash and break steering lock away from stolen. Do you have any engine management changes to use that boost controller? Usually there's a bit of leeway with stock engine control that you can get a bit more from them, but its not a smart nor safe way to go. edit: Its a complex question, but do B6 have an tapped and plugged oil turbo feeds on the block near where the exhaust flange is? I'm replacing my damaged GTX engine with a 90 Miata B6 and don't know how much work I have to do to make it work. I suppose I could just get a 'turbo oil feed kit' from eBay and use it with my stock turbo. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Dec 17, 2010 |
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Dec 17, 2010 02:41
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Anyone have a set of daisies for sale/trade/free in California? I have some 1.6NA ignition parts for trade. I'm hoping to put some new wheels on the Charade and painted daisies look far better than trying to stuff my 13ET 16X7" Team Dynamics Monza Rs onto a Daihatsu, and are a bit lighter.
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Apr 21, 2011 20:49
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Exactly what a Miata needs is 150lbs of extra bumper, totally wrong scrub radius, and no suspension travel.
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Jul 29, 2011 05:36
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Try pounding in the ball joint, it might help it jam enough to have the nut come off.
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Aug 12, 2011 05:27
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I'm interested in the 1.6 engine if you want to sell it, I need a new engine for my GTX and the CR boost would give me some reasonable economy and off-boost performance.
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Sep 1, 2011 17:04
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ursa_minor posted:You're in the Bay Area, right? I'm down in San Luis Obispo, but for the stupid money people want for crappy old NA 1.6Ls, I'd definitely help you swap in trade for the higher-mileage one. I don't know if I could take the parts Miata, but I could just swap the engine to that and drive it home 
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Sep 2, 2011 00:22
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ursa_minor posted:Hey guys, I have a few small questions. I'm completely new to Miatas, so I don't know if what I am experiencing are just Miata quirks, or real mechanical problems. I'm assuming the latter. Check your brake fluid level, there is a magnetic switch that illuminates the light when the level gets too low. The parking brake switch could also be working incorrectly.
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Sep 29, 2011 03:21
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If there was a danger of fiberglass/CF/kevlar seats breaking in accidents, they wouldn't have FIA stickers on them.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:11
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I was given Krakkles' rusty nasty 91 Miata, which I sold for very little. I still have some parts lying around.
Offer me money, its cluttering up my 10x20' race garage!
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Apr 15, 2012 17:36
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dustywusty posted:Interested in the Bilsteins. What kind of condition are they in? They're used with 40-80K on them, I'll have to ask the owner (another AI poster). I imagine they would eventually need to be rebuilt/revalved, especially if not using the original springs the shocks are valved for. They don't leak or anything, and seem to still be gas filled.
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Apr 18, 2012 19:11
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Becktastic posted:Anybody want a blue/black LeBra Miata bra? I thought it would be teal, but it is very royal blue and looks like crap with my teal Miata. You should see if someone on the LeMons forums might want that thing, thats totally 
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Apr 26, 2012 18:19
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craig588 posted:Speaking of belts, the cheap Goodyear belt Rockauto sells is crap. Over the course of a year I had to retension it 3 times and it eventually reached the limit of the tensioner and was still floppy. Next time I'll spend a dollar more or whatever and get a different brand. Odd, I always had amazing luck with Gatorback belts (if that is then Goodyear belt model you are referring to), but now a recently installed Gatorback on my Charade is experiencing the same symptoms. Odd.
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Apr 28, 2012 21:14
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mobby_6kl posted:I think Mitsubishi was the OEM for this sensor, and I really wouldn't risk installing something sketchy with a part that can single handedly leave you stuck in the middle of nowhere with no warning. Still, if you can find something significantly cheaper, you could just keep the old one in the trunk for backup. Mitsubishi probably also built the alternator, and did build the NA cam sensor, coilpack, and ignition module. Just because MMoA and Fuso suck, doesn't mean a vaguely related electronics manufacturer can't build parts.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:00
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Does anyone want any parts from the B6T out of my 323 GTX? I got a newer engine so I have a good set of rods and 3 perfect pistons (plus on that may be usable with some sanding. The cams are also for sale, I hear that the exhaust cam does a bit for a N/A B6. I have two valve covers too if you'd like to run ope timing gears. The engine had only 45K miles on it 
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Aug 3, 2012 05:21
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saint gerald posted:Did you need much leverage? And does it really help to do it when the exhaust is hot? You'd probably want the exhaust warm, but not hot. Run it for a few minutes at idle, then try it. That way, you expend the exhaust bung, but not enough to really heat up the sensor body. Definitely do the multiple applications of PB Blaster before that, though.
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Jan 14, 2013 18:05
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Piano posted:If anyone goons want some megasquirt parts I have a poo poo load of random little peripheral bits like two of the 3.0 wiring harnesses, tuning cables, most of the leftover stuff to wire it in parallel (don't do this unless you hate yourself) etc- pretty much everything except the actual MS unit. Let me know. Not giving it away for free but certainly a lot lot less than you'd pay from their website. Sent you a PM!
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Jan 20, 2013 04:51
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Hog Obituary posted:So here's a terrifying project Piece of poo poo hellaflush wheels and requisite lovely handling always means a bad car. I bet the rear tow hook is worn from a drift charm, too. edit: what kind of idiot gets "Y Band" out of "wideband?"
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Jan 29, 2013 19:49
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The restriction the throttle body and the hot aluminum intake manifold, valves, and the cooling effect from the fuel spray all gently caress with the actual cylinder air temperature anyway, so a generally accurate reading is fine. Its for density and corrections, there's some leeway.
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Feb 8, 2013 20:24
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TrueChaos posted:Bit of a strange issue with the brakes - when I start the car, I need to stand on the pedel for the car to stop. The issue is gone within 2 minutes or less. This seems to happen only when it's right around freezing outside with very high relative humidity. Anyone have any ideas? Vacuum boosters also can freeze, there isn't really a fix for that, though. Check the calipers and such too, just in case.
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Mar 1, 2013 18:36
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Voltage posted:I can't stop looking at the install instructions for the FM turbo kit... I just feel like it would almost be wasted on my car since it's a 200,000 mile rustbucket. The B6 and BP engines are surprisingly durable and take forced induction pretty well even with higher mileage. If your leakdown numbers look good (not an optional test), then redoing all the oil seals and considering doing the headgasket might work just fine. My first 323 GTX (A factory B6 turbo) had 180K miles on it, had less than 5% leakdown on all cylinders, and the bores looked brand new when I took the head off to deal with a burned valve seat.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:29
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leica posted:Ah, gotcha. Has anyone here ever converted to E85? Some dude on the Protege forums converted one of his BP cars and was talking like it was better than sliced bread. Its about 26% less energy dense than gasoline, but its like 115 octane, so it will not easily knock. I think it also is more endothermic than gasoline.
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Apr 17, 2013 05:39
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 06:19 |
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I have some media-blasted NA latches that I will never use, they're yours for shipping. edit: oh hard top nevermind
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Nov 7, 2013 02:03
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