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um excuse me posted:Looking to do an engine swap on an NA Miata. Is there any reason I shouldn't just buy the harbor freight folding shop crane and engine stand? I've got a steel floor jack from them about 4 years ago that's been holding up well so I would think their hydraulic stuff is decent. From everything I've heard and seen, their hydraulic jacks and shop cranes are pretty solid. The actual hydraulics in them might leak down, but you shouldn't be storing anything supported solely by hydraulic pressure anyway. I have the 2-ton shop crane, and it works well enough. I got the bigger one because I thought the extra reach would be nice (which it was).
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Apr 9, 2018 18:04
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Looks like my cheap parts-store battery charger is dying, anyone have any reccomendations? Just need something to charge car batteries.
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Apr 10, 2018 01:16
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The internal cooling fan has been making a racket for awhile, but yesterday to get it to actually turn on/light up I had to smack it a few times. Seems to be working now (as well as it ever did, at least), but I thought I'd start shopping for a new one. I might also be in the market for a brake-bleeding kit/machine/whatever, I think I need to do the clutch in the Fiero and its a pain do to it solo. Last time I had a buddy help me with the brakes, and he still refers to it as "that time the neighbors thought we were having extremely boring gay sex"... ("Push it in, okay, let it out...). He lives across town now, anyway, so some sort of power/solo bleeder would be nice.
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Apr 12, 2018 00:44
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Huh, I haven't actually checked, but I think mine's identical to this Schumacher: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-1200A-CA-SpeedCharge-Automatic-Battery/dp/B000BQSIWK/ I guess I should open it up and check for loose connections.
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Apr 12, 2018 07:20
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donut posted:
You can just buy an impact driver ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver ), but the fact that that one is built into a screwdriver is kind of neat. I always wanted a yankee screwdriver ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee_screwdriver ) which has sort of a similar mechanism without the impact part, but I think they're probably useless for screws that are actually stuck in.
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May 8, 2018 01:09
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StormDrain posted:Funny enough my dad was just saying how he loved them for door hardware. Light and fast, and didn’t damage the screws. I’d love to see a modern one with lasertips. I've seen them used in two movies (Robert De Niro's character in Brazil and Elwood at the end of Blues Brothers, in the elevator), and wanted one since, but I figure they're not used much anymore for a reason. Probably the same purpose as an electric screwdriver, but worse in almost every way.
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May 8, 2018 01:31
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cakesmith handyman posted:So you're saying all it's missing is a fine mist of petrol into the intake, gotcha. That's actually what the guy was doing at the end of Fury Road, when he was spitting gas into the engine.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:53
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Bajaha posted:It's Porsche and my suspicion is the convertible top needs to be removed to properly access it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the official procedure Don't forget you probably need to get it back together, so even if you frankenstein something to remove it, you may not be able to get it back together. Also, if you're loosening a screw, it's going to back out and reduce your clearance further.
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Jul 17, 2018 01:01
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Harbor Freight jack stands any good? On one hand, a giant hunk of metal shouldn't be difficult to do well, on the other hand I really don't want it to give out while I'm under the car. I wouldn't trust their rating system, ie, don't trust that the 1.5 ton stands will hold 3000 lbs safely. Otherwise, they're probably fine.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:24
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Charles posted:Really, that seems counter-intuitive, but the corded one has 300ft-lbs and the M18 battery has 450ft-lbs. Hmm Rye Bread posted:I'm not sure what everyone's budget is, but you can regularly get the DeWalt DCF899 for $250-275 with a battery and charger. 700ft lbs, with 1200 breakaway! https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...67-20/302654201 Specs listed are 1100 ft-lbs of fastening torque, 1400 ft-lbs of "nut-busting" torque. I think I have an older version of that with a little less torque; it has two settings: one for the full rust-loving power, one that's slower and much less torque (call it 50 ft-lbs) that you can use without twisting screws off, I use it for installing lug nuts. Buying into the battery system is a bit of a pain, but they have a pretty good line of tools, especially the M12 stuff. The charger I have will charge both M18 and M12. Also for Milwaukee, Fuel batteries are compatible with Fuel and non-Fuel tools, and the reverse works I think but won't give you full power. Other brands are probably fine as well.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:39
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wesleywillis posted:My nephew just got his first whip. 2006 Ranger, 2wd. I'd suggest a 40lb bag of floor dry or kitty litter (I think they're basically the same thing). Just as gritty, comes in a sealed bag, and useful if he spills oil for some reason. You can get a tiny jump starter box for fairly cheap now, as an alternative to jumper cables, or a jump starter box that also has an air compressor. I saw that you are giving him a pair of cables you already have, it's just a suggestion. I'd also recommend a tow strap for getting pulled out of a ditch or pulling others, depending on where you live. A patch kit for tires might be less useful than a can of that instant-tire-repair stuff, if he's not mechanically-inclined. It'll get him as far as an actual tire repair place at least. Verify that the truck has a jack (and that it's not one that will try to murder him, depending on how much you like him), and if not, maybe a decent one of those?
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Oct 16, 2018 20:09
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wesleywillis posted:Tow strap = good choice, I'll look in to that Be a little careful with what strap you get as well. I don't know a lot about it, but there are straps intended for different things with differing amounts of stretch in them. You see videos all the time of someone using a stretchy tow strap incorrectly and smashing out windows. A metal hook on the end of what is effectively a 30ft rubber band will do serious damage to whatever it hits. I'd suggest one with as little stretch as possible.
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Oct 16, 2018 21:11
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Free hat! https://www.wd40.com/sema
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Oct 20, 2018 01:04
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Didn't some one on here have huge issues getting Ryobi to honor their warranty on something, or was that a different brand?
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Oct 30, 2018 03:07
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BraveUlysses posted:and since it's that time of year for all the good deals: Toolguyd is a good source for tool news/deals as well. I bought a M12 Fuel 3/8 rachet with a free M12 battery from a deal posted there earlier this week, if it gets here before Saturday I'm taking that and my M18 gently caress-You Impact to the junkyard this weekend to maybe pull a transmission.
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Nov 8, 2018 19:59
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Rhyno posted:Settlement? The Harbor Freight class action lawsuit.
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Nov 15, 2018 20:41
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blindjoe posted:Dust Deputy Huh, I didn't know anything like that existed. An add-on cyclone filter for a shop vac. Neat.
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Nov 28, 2018 02:43
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What are you drilling into that you need an impact driver? Do you just not have an ordinary drill? I don't think regular drill bits in an impact driver sound like a good idea either, but I don't have any data to back it up. I've never seen "impact rated" drill bits, so it's possible that it's perfectly fine. For impact bits, these Bosch ones come recommended by a tool blog I read (toolguyd) - 24 pc $10 set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HTGG7X/?tag=toolguyd-20 44 pc $20 set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HRZ86J/?tag=toolguyd-20 48 pc $26 set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HSGDBV/?tag=toolguyd-20
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Dec 1, 2018 01:31
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Yep, drilling through thin materials with a normal drill bit is generally not a great idea for that reason, although you can make it work. If you have to do that sort of thing the regular, stepper bits are a good investment: https://www.amazon.com/Step-Drill-Bits/b?ie=UTF8&node=256287011
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Dec 1, 2018 08:48
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In aww at the size of this lad. For shop lighting, what were the Costco LED bulbs/fixtures that're good? I just put a workbench in my garage and there's no light in that corner. Looking for one of those ~4ft fluorescent-looking fixtures but I don't remember which ones they were.
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Dec 6, 2018 21:04
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I want to pick up some chains for my Town Car before the snow flies. I realize that just getting winter tires would likely be better, but I'm in Portland, OR and it snows once a year, tops (and I don't go up to the mountain). Chains are more an emergency thing. That said, does anyone have any recommendations? I've never used a set. I have these saved on an Amazon wishlist, are they any good? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZA2LA/?coliid=I19NCXHMW6G4LF I'm going to get a set of 4 whenever I get some.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:45
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Cat Hatter posted:Find out for sure that chains are even legal on public roads in your area before you buy anything. They are. always be closing posted:Use a sick day instead Doesn't help when I'm working or out with friends downtown when it dumps inches of snow over a couple of hours and I'm not paying attention. The first case, it took me 2 hours to drive 2 miles, the second I ended up leaving my car off on a side street out of the way of traffic and calling a friend with a 4wd vehicle.
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Dec 11, 2018 23:00
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Kafouille posted:I've gone up an unplowed alpine pass with a pair of those on the front wheels of a front wheel drive car, it was really good fun taking every hairpin at full opposite lock pretending I was in Initial D, but at 30km/h. I was the only idiot dumb enough to be on that road too, just fresh snow the whole way, not a single tire track but mine. I grew up in rural Minnesota and lived in Fargo, ND for ten years... one thing I miss after moving to Portland is the normal morning drive-to-work gymkhana on slippery, deserted roads. There was one half-mile long, paved but with no housing around it (at that time) that I merrily fishtailed down the entire distance every day. Some of the most fun I've had at 20mph. Kafouille posted:I've had good experiences with tire socks instead of chains, they are much easier to put on and give really good traction on snow, better than chains. They do not tolerate use on asphalt, even at low speed they will get torn up. So this may be an option if it's for emergency use, they are much more compact and lighter than chains. Huh thanks, I'll have to check that out. My two real concerns are a) do they work, and b) how big of a pain in the rear end are they to get on. The chains I linked earlier are supposedly easier than most to get on but I have nothing to compare to. I'm really just looking for something to get me <10 miles home through some inches of snow when I've made bad decisions to be away from home while it's snowed earlier in the day. The last car I drove in snow out here was my e30, and while that was hilariously fun, the traffic speed and amount of steep hills made actually getting anywhere impractical. I now have a (WHITE) 2004 Town Car, which has traction control but no LSD, so it'll likely be less fun and look more like a snow drift when I inevitably get stuck. I already have a tow strap in my kit, that and chains should be able to get me home.
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Dec 12, 2018 18:27
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Geoj posted:In my experience, when you're in a situation where you're crawling below 5 MPH due to extreme winter weather things are going to be so hosed anyways with other traffic that snow tires/chains/studs/whatever aren't going to be much of a help getting to your destination quickly. That follows my experience as well living for thirty years in MN/ND followed by six years in a place where it doesn't snow much. When it doesn't snow much, people don't know how to deal and/or lose their minds. I don't go out when I can avoid it, but sometimes you get caught out in a bad situation. Snow chains go in the winter emergency kit with a blanket, boots, warm clothes, etc. boxen fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Dec 12, 2018 |
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Dec 12, 2018 19:20
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You...you don't WANT to buy a fancy new tool? I don't understand.
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Dec 13, 2018 02:08
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Hey, at least it's a chinese tool that's SUPPOSED to have lead in it.
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Dec 21, 2018 21:07
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I guess this proves that, that which is dead CAN be killed.
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Dec 22, 2018 02:12
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Uthor posted:I bought this because it was Wirecutter's budget pick. Only used it once, it didn't immediately break on me. Pretty sure I have that kit and it's worked fine. Also takes Dremel bits I think.
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Dec 25, 2018 22:13
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I remebered there used to be a flexible urethane socket rail that people seemed to like that I was going to buy some of, but I can't seem to find them in stock anywhere now. This amazon page (saying they're out of stock) looks to be the same thing, but I can't find the original store anymore. Off Road Tools or something? https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Rail-Storage-Drive-Sockets/dp/B01N7H8UYW
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Dec 31, 2018 19:52
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sharkytm posted:Bondhus: I picked up a set of those color ones for my home tools, and had them delivered to my work... my boss saw them sitting on my desk and asked if I bought them for my work tools. When I said I bought them and will be taking them home, he said "Well, send me the link, I'll order a few sets".
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Jan 5, 2019 01:14
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powderific posted:I hate them but it tends to be a really individual thing how much that type bugs you. I've also tried them and hated them. The edges of the cups feel stabby in my ears after a while.
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Jan 8, 2019 01:04
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Krakkles posted:If you were going to buy a Milwaukee M12 ratchet, which would you get? Primary use would be auto maintenance. I just did this, and went with the 3/8 M12 Fuel, unfortunately I haven't tried it out yet. Reasoning was I probably use my 3/8 ratchet more than the others, and I already own one of those M18 nutfucker 9000 1/2" impacts for big stuff (that was big enough to completely gently caress the threads on a cross-threaded lug nut when I tried to take it off, and all I noticed was a slightly slower hammering briefly, and an intense burning sensation when I tried to pick up the lug nut off the ground).
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Jan 10, 2019 07:53
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If you happen to have a Home Depot nearby, they sometimes have them on display. From what I remember, the 1/4" Fuel isn't hugely smaller than the 3/8" Fuel, but the non-Fuel versions of both are substantially less chunky. I went with the Fuel versions reasoning that if access was that tight, I could just use a normal ratchet, and would probably appreciate the power/speed of the Fuel versions more often than I'd wish they were smaller.
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Jan 10, 2019 08:23
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MrOnBicycle posted:Some dude is selling a cheap no-name late 90's table/bench drill press. I'm trying to justify it by coming up with useful situations for car stuff. Can't really think of any. Anyone have any examples where a bench drill press is useful for automotive stuff? I've already got a 12V drill and impact. I've not used a drill press since shop class in school, but I seem to remember it being nice to be able to very precisely drill stuff. Perhaps for rust removal and general cleaning of up of parts? I can't offhand think of anything you'd use a drill press for from a general maintenance perspective, if you were fabbing up brackets and mounts it might be handy. I don't think the benefit is so much precision (you should probably be center punching and pre-drilling holes you need precise anyway), as not making holes that are angled one way or the other. I've tried to tap holes I've drilled with a hand drill and realized they're off at some goofy angle, even though the hole started out in the right spot. I guess you could put a wire wheel in one and use it as a ghetto bench grinder, but the speed probably isn't high enough to compare to a real bench grinder with a wheel. If it were me, I'd buy it anyway regardless of usefulness, as long as it seems to be in decent shape and functions. More tools = more better. Also, a drill press is something that makes a space look more like a shop, rather than a garage with random poo poo everywhere.
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Feb 1, 2019 20:30
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sharkytm posted:I would avoid cheap boots though. You'll regret buying them, they'll only last a year tops, and you'll likely have back/knee/ankle pain long before then. Any time someone talks about cheap boots on the internet: "Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and he would still have wet feet. This was the Captain Samuel Vimes 'Boots' theory of socioeconomic unfairness.” -Terry Pratchett, "Men at Arms"
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Mar 19, 2019 18:40
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My NutFucker 9000 is obsolete  Milwaukee now has a 1" M18 Fuel Cordless Impact
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Mar 22, 2019 17:52
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If you're really worried about it, I'm fairly certain you can use them as a normal ratchet as well; ie, break something loose the normal way then hit the button to power off the fastener. That said, I went for the Fuel 3/8".
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Apr 1, 2019 22:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:Also.. I don't like Miatas. At all.  Yeah, to each their own. I've never owned or dealt with one in any capacity. My "small, impractical car" itch is scratched in other ways
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Apr 17, 2019 18:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Is it designed to be I was going to say, $800 bare tool price it should just tighten the bolt itself, but I guess a Snap on digital wrench is $600-ish.
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Jun 6, 2019 20:11
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Elviscat posted:Does it not also tighten the bolt for you? Why is it so big then? I guess it might; the head looks vaguely similar to the M12 ratchets I've seen. That'd make it quite a bit cooler, but I think the advantage would be that you can give it to some random rear end in a top hat and send him off to tighten bolts, without telling them how to use a torque wrench, just tell them to hold onto it and take it off the bolt when the thing goes beep. I wonder if you could also program in a routine? IE, you're doing something like head bolts, so you say you want to do a dozen bolts at 80 ft-lbs or whatever, and then again to 120, you could program it for a sequence of 12 bolts at each torque rating, in theory making sure you hit everything properly.
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Jun 6, 2019 21:37
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