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Springs CAN (but not WILL) technically wear from compression. This is called creep. It is very unlikely to happen in a measurable amount under anything like normal conditions. Look up a creep study on A231 steel or a similar alloy. If well below the plastic region of a stress strain curve, it is very unlikely this will happen at sub 200*F temperatures.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:03
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ctishman posted:All right, I'm a bit of a tool newbie, and I've gotten a job working in a shop doing general mechanical. I've got a minimum tool list that I'm trying to decipher, but there are a few bits that are confusing to me. Dont feel bad when they pick on you for being green as hell its part of initiating into that work environment.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:41
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ctishman posted:A very good point, and I definitely intend to stay in the industry. I'm currently drawing up two lists: one with good parts (or what I hope are good parts, based on various internet recommendations, such as Channellock pliers, etc.) and one with the cheapest poo poo I can find on Harbor Freight. Honestly, the figures are so far about $100 apart, which doesn't make a good case for going with lovely tools. If suppliers such as Snap-On do some sort of an installment plan, I'll definitely look into that. Snap on and Matco are INFAMOUSLY loose with credit. Youll end up owing them your hosue if yorue not careful. Make a list of what you need from them and then thats it. A Snap On roller cabinet is not worth $2000 over the "us general" one at harbor freight. That said harbor freight channel locks are maybe one of the most annoying tools you'll ever own because they SUCK compared to a really good set. This is coming from someone who LOVE harbor freight and cheap tools. Also expect to get poo poo about whatever tools you buy unless theyre your grand dads built in USA clearly worn heirloom socket wrench.
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Aug 13, 2013 01:18
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Buying an $80 thing from alibaba seems like an absolutely terrible idea. Expect worse than harbor freight quality.
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Aug 15, 2013 12:52
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Uthor posted:This certainly seems like a safe hammer design. Should be captioned: "How to get sued in to oblivion"
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Aug 18, 2013 02:03
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eddiewalker posted:Mines lasted a long time, with a lot of extra use as a laser pointer for the dog to chase. No idea how accurate it is, but it's close enough for anything I've needed. It will depend on what youre measuring. Unless it self-calibrates for different emissivities it wont be very accurate and anything that is highly reflective in the IR range will be really inaccurate. Basically all IR thermometers suck at measuring the temp of polished aluminum.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:18
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Unsane posted:They are adjustable reamers. Nice one I am a machinist and didnt know what they were.
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Nov 4, 2013 19:29
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slidebite posted:It's a big boy, about 20' Curious what brand of lathe it was cause it looks like all the castings were hollow where they shouldn't be hollow on a quality oil field lathe.
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Nov 15, 2013 03:11
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slidebite posted:Snarky? Not sure how anything I said is snarky...? An oil field lathe refers to a big spindle bore lathe with a really long bed. Sometimes also called hollow spindle lathes.
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Nov 17, 2013 21:37
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Motronic posted:You'd need a hell of an inverter to handle the startup inrush of a corded impact. They're like 7 to 10 amps nominal. What he said though these are all solid state and can deal with inrush better than others. I wonder if the spec'd current on them is locked rotor amperage. Either way you're talking a 1000+W inverter for something you'll rarely use.
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Dec 12, 2013 19:03
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revmoo posted:The HF ratcheting crimper I have is garbage. Even on the tightest adjustment 100% of my crimps fail the tug test. With the lovely red-handle Radio Shack crimpers 90% of my crimps pass the test. My first mech eng internship was for a milspec electrical tool company. I conducted tensile pullout tests as part of it. The HF crimper I tried could make milspec tensile strength crimps with milspec wire/milspec RBY temrinals, UL tensile strength (less, failed milspec) with UL listed terminals and milspec wire, and 14lb pullout that failed both with HF terminals and milspec wire. UL terminals on some Walmart wire that was not UL listed on the sheathing or packaging could would also not pass even ULs fairly low tensile strength requirements. The crimper on last click before ratchewt release would gauge the correct diameter for all three cavities on two, .001 oversize on the third. It is probably not the crimper. Using RBY terminals from or wire from Walmart or HF or ebay is ASKING for a fire. DONT DO IT.
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Sep 10, 2014 07:06
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Dannywilson posted:Just used these today, and good lord it was like going from a Denny's to a 5 star steakhouse. I mean, they are no Daniels modular pin crimper, but for automotive splice/terminal applications, they are perfect. I used to work for Daniels/DMC! And I have posted int his thread a few times under various names about what everyone should know about crimping stuff.
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Sep 28, 2014 06:07
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kastein posted:Dude, WTF, please never do electrical work on any car I am going to buy What he said. So very stupid and unsafe and just lazy. You can get ratcheting crimpers that crimp RBY terminals really well for $10 at harbor freight.
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Sep 28, 2014 19:39
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Splizwarf posted:I have had really bad luck with that one, either they've taken a turn for the worse or I got three lemons in a row. Maybe I got lucky, I bought mine back in ~2009. Still works, though I only use it to make a dozen crimps a year probably. Dannywilson posted:I use DMC stuff exclusively at work. Good drat crimpers. Given the size and age of the company they take quality and reliability very, very seriously. Great group of people, very much a family company. Not uncommon to meet people who have been there 15+ years.
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Sep 28, 2014 20:53
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EKDS5k posted:Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference? Theyre a step up from the $1 stamped crimping pliers but probably a step down from the $20 Chinese ratcheting crimpers posted earlier. Possibly more important though is using UL or Milspec listed wire and terminals. Make sure it clearly states on the package that both are UL listed and that you purchase them from a reputable source. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Sep 29, 2014 |
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Sep 29, 2014 05:55
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the wizards beard posted:In my experience a good pliers-style crimper is superior if you need to use many different crimping pins requiring different jaw sizes and crimping forces (i.e. for electronics work). When you want to repeat the same couple of jobs over and over then an appropriate ratchet wins. This is a fair point if you have pliers that will do contacts you want but I think almost everyone in this thread is crimping RBY terminals between 10 and 20 gauge. EDIT: Fun story about Daniels that I remember. When a space shuttle or major rocket would launch from Cape Canaveral, the whole office would go stand outside and watch it, beaming with pride that our safe-t-cable and crimp tools were used throughout that thing. Good times.
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Sep 30, 2014 03:42
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StormDrain posted:I didn't even know there was a better kind of crimper until this week and drat do I want one. http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html OR http://www.amazon.com/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0 OR if you want a baller rear end tool: https://www.dmctools.com/store/cata...26x%3D0%26y%3D0 CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Sep 30, 2014 |
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Sep 30, 2014 04:25
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Splizwarf posted:Does anyone make an affordable one where there's another way to open it besides closing it all the way? Sometimes I want to stop and re-position and it's too late. Most have a little lever you can press with a screwdriver that'll reset the pawl.
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Sep 30, 2014 04:30
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revmoo posted:I have the HF ones and I've never gotten a successful crimp out of them, even after adjusting them to the max setting they're still too loose. If Ive said ti once Ive said it a million times. UL listed/MILSPEC connectors and wire ONLY. I'd bet it isn't the crimpers because the china quality tolerances required to be functional can be made with MIM parts right out of the die. This is exactly why, and good experience I'd bet as a result of that issue: kastein posted:I take RBY ferrule sizing with a grain of salt, if it seems like there's too much space, I double the wire over or use the next size down. Reds are always annoying though.
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Oct 2, 2014 02:03
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Tomarse posted:I already have one of those for insulated crimps, but I would also love a ratcheting crimper for the non insulated terminals like these: There is some sort of ratcheting crimper for basically every connector. I have a Daniels HX4 I use for crimps of that style, but thats a very expensive tool for every day use. (Unless you buy them on eBay where I got mine for like $40 in 2009) That said, you need to be lucky enough to find the right die set. What is that terminal called? EDIT: This may work and is like $30. http://www.electricscooterparts.com/crimpconnectors.html
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Oct 3, 2014 02:10
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Seems like a lot of money. I bought a craftsman one of lower CFM, same tank size that has worked for my home stuff for $150 on craigslist 10 years ago.
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Nov 5, 2014 17:25
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sharkytm posted:It's not new, and still nowhere as good as McMaster for hardware. I keep hoping that they'll improve it, but not yet... Basically my experience though it was a while ago last I used them. McMaster just owns so hard. The fact that they have Solidworks CAD for about 75% of what I want means I'll always go there first.
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Nov 8, 2014 18:49
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Sorry if this is getting to be a broken record, I did an engineering internship at a milspec crimp tool manufacturer. This is a longer reply than you asked for but its the short version everything you need to know tooling wise to make a wiring harness that will outlast your car. I say crimp all the way. Way more consistency. You're on the right track with ratcheting crimpers though some of the cheaper ones will have a certain way you should handle them to make them shut all the way. Make sure you have the right die for your wire barrel. If the tool for this is too expensive, and you dont mind doing some legwork try to find specs from one of the milspec companies like DMCtools on thier website for what the gaging size should be, then find a similar style of die that gages the same. If that crimper has the right die set for you itll probably work great. ONLY USE MILSPEC OR UL LISTED WIRE AND TERMINALS. It makes a HUGE HUGE difference in pull strength. Coated milspec wire in UL terminals will pull test significantly higher than UL wire in UL terminals. While I haven't put together any commercial type harnesses (only military and their plastic clones) you may also want to invest in installation and removal tools in case you break a pin or want to remove pins later. Not all of them can be removed with a small screwdriver without breaking your harness.
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Nov 9, 2014 20:38
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Armchair Calvinist posted:That's actually an excellent answer and I thank you for taking the time to post it! IMO the person who makes the crimper doesn't matter that much. DMC/Daniels manufacturing seems to be the industry leader but their crimpers are $$ unless you buy them on eBay. I snagged a crimper for about $60 but good luck finding the right die set. They'll last forever with every day use and are rebuildable though. Heat shrink is the same story, UL listed only. Mil spec is probably better. Splices are another all caps reply of UL only Milspec better. Use harbor freight splices if you ant your car to be on fire. I am not being dramatic it is really potentially that bad even when correctly crimped.
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Nov 9, 2014 23:26
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Jared592 posted:drat, $99 seems like a crazy deal. It's nearly $200 now. Yea but fluxcore sucks unless youre repairing a tractor in a field. MIG/TIG all the way.
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Nov 30, 2014 07:35
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Hypnolobster posted:120v fluxcore has limited usefulness, but it'll do general fabrication with > 3/16" steel without a problem on non-critical stuff. 1/8" if you want to push it a little and technique is very good. 220v fluxcore and dual shield can sure as poo poo kick rear end for fabrication, but that's a completely different story. What I am getting at is, its a monkey wrench to a ratcheting box end wrench set. Or sometimes even vice grips to a good set of wrenches.
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Nov 30, 2014 23:23
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oxbrain posted:A574 is harder and has a higher tensile strength, but the hardness makes them more brittle. Over torquing or excessive vibration will snap them where even a grade 2 fastener would stretch and hold. I don't think this part is good advice. The fatigue life of a higher tensile strength bolt should be higher. [Source:http://www.asminternational.org/documents/10192/1849892/06181G_Sample.pdf/d408b01c-8497-46a3-9845-3af305feba89] Yes the strain before fracture is less but by that logic plastic would make a better bolt, or aluminum. If you're at the stress limit when torquing you're over torquing...don't do that. If youre snapping bolts under heavy vibration, you didn't put enough bolts and no a lower strength bolt wouldn't last longer. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 08:45
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Cat Hatter posted:I would use grade 8 and Loctite myself. I'm guessing either the previous bolts were only shaped like ASTM A574 Socket Head Cap Screws but were actually made of cheaper metal or someone severely overtightened them to keep them from rattling loose from vibration. I remember some video from years ago demonstrating that lock-washers and nylon-insert stop nuts fail before threadlocker. Not that they behave similarly but rather that ~in general~ an increase in hardness (increase in carbon, primarily) correlates to an increase in fatigue life. Just as a point of clarification, if that sub was mounted with hardware store screws they are poo poo and yea Grade 8 is a very strong bolt. I am a fan of both Loctite and Nylon inserts. Page 9 posted:Composition. An increase in carbon content Related figure for Moly containing steel alloys: 
CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 20:08
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Sadi posted:I've heard of doing that to sockets to keep them from scratching wheels. Ive used duct tape for this purpose. When it wears it gets messy though.
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Dec 6, 2014 20:41
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Safety Dance posted:What's your favorite oil filter removal tool that's quickly available on Amazon? Whoever installed it on my jeep last made it his mission in life to make sure that oil filter never got removed. This thing owns pretty fuckin hard. Never had it not work and you can use it at weird angles. I'd put it at one of my best ROI tools. http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-oil-filter-wrench-66570.html
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Dec 7, 2014 20:24
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I change mine when warm/hot. I give it about 10 minutes to cool off through as the oil pan threads tend to be a very very tight fit.
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Dec 8, 2014 04:44
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I always do it hot because I figure more crap could be in solution and the very short dry start tolerances are better. No proof behind either but both make some sense.
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Dec 8, 2014 07:17
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Rhyno posted:I had a set of Rhino Ramps (the big ones) break under the weight of the MS6 so they got returned. I had the same experience though with a heavier car.
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Dec 10, 2014 20:07
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Wont they warranty the thing?
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Jan 16, 2015 01:45
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Cakefool posted:I needed a tool today at work, I'll need it again for certain so I thought I'd ask here. I basically needed either molegrips or a clamping adjustable spanner but with soft jaws to securely grip a smooth shaft Like this?: http://toolguyd.com/kobalt-magnum-grip-pliers/ http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...tText=&_sacat=0
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Feb 28, 2015 18:18
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without marring it. I realised I need these quite often for 6-30mm shafts as a lot of pneumatic components have smooth ground shafts with threaded ends and they don't always have flats for a spanner.
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Dumb or ingenius way to clean injectors? Huge fire hazard. Smoking while pumping gas level of fire hazard.
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Jun 6, 2015 15:08
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Dannywilson posted:Daniels if you have the money, These if you want decent but cheap red-blue-yellow's. I have a set, and they're pretty good for the price (coming from someone who uses Daniels at work regularly). I did my engineering internship with them. Excellent company. Setting the standard level of tool quality. I own an HX4 and 2 die sets for some specialty stuff. Good deals to be had on eBay. That said for regular ol' RBY butt/ring connectors I use harbor freight ratcheting crimpers and at a MINIMUM UL listed wire and terminals from a reputable source. I have done tensile testing and the wire and terminals you buy are very important. Milspec is much better than UL.
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Jun 12, 2015 01:12
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bolind posted:Hmmm, that got me thinking; is there such a thing as an internal rolled thread? Is it InitialDave who CNC machinist turned Mech E here. There are forming taps as someone mentioned and forming taps kick loving rear end. I prefer them to cut threads especially in soft metals. Also pretty useful to make "nearly interference" fit or high friction threads in plastics with stuff you have laying around. I used them all the time in hand and CNC tapping. They supposedly have a hardness limit for which you can use them but I have read threads on practical machinist where people used them on 304SS plate and annealed medium carbon steal w/o issue.
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Aug 14, 2015 01:10
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Safety Dance posted:They should really be using crimps over solders for vehicle wiring harnesses. Agreed EightBit posted:Wires don't have to be under tension to transmit vibration, the copper will take care of that. Increasing the length of lead wires in electronics is a very effective way of decreasing solder stress. In terms of external wires that are of course orders of magnitude longer, this is still true. A service loop will stop force from being transmitted to the solder joint. While they wont transmit none, the wire will act as a vibration filter that will be extremely biased to low frequencies, isolating the high frequency vibration that causes solder joint failures. Tomarse posted:Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. I bought a Daniels (DMC) HX4 (mil spec crimp tool) on eBay used for like $50 in 2009. Check there.
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Sep 23, 2015 02:24
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Presented without comment. Yea thats what I want out of metal cutting disks...not a tendency not to explode...but rather softcore porn
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Nov 24, 2015 20:51
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