Bad Munki posted:

Phone posted:

Wait, you don't have an artisanal broom? lol

What's next? You don't drink La Croix?

wormil posted:

And dog holes

Squibbles posted:

Whatever brand of folding plastic sawhorses I have are total garbage. The bracing between the legs is a big flat piece that folds in half when the thing is collapsed flat for storage but the hinge they use to make it fold is awful, it's just plastic on plastic and refuses to hold together properly without tons of fiddling. I think once it's together and flattened out it might be ok but it's a nightmare to transition them between standing and folded. I think I used them for my very first project and then maybe once or twice since then when I'm really hard up for a stand of some sort.

keep it down up there! posted:

Pot, meet kettle.

wormil posted:

Shaker of course.

wormil posted:

It's in the cabinet underneath. Yawn. Maybe you and GE should have a boys night out so you get me out your system. Believe me, there is nothing that would make me happier.

MickRaider posted:

This pallet of wood was in my basement when I bought my house. Looks like it's from an old mailbox post, probably pine. Each section is like 18"

Is it firewood or worth keeping as scraps? I'm not entirely sure what I'd use it for and it's too big to really work on my tables saw/don't have a band saw.

Zhent posted:

I have no dog in this fight but this is a good point - please don't make the mistake I did when starting and think that a contractor / construction style table saw [like this http://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/table-saws/10-compact-job-site-table-saw-with-sitepro-modular-guarding-system/dwe7480 ] will do any good for woodworking beyond the smallest projects. I find it such a hassle to pull it out, find something to use for outfeed and to support the rest of the work that isn't on the tiny tabletop, etc. that I honestly would prefer to make everything but the largest rips by hand at the moment.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Anyway, I'd expect that circular saw injury rates would be lower simply because circular saw use would be lower. So that's interesting; what am I missing?

Falco posted:

While I would normally agree, I picked up one of these last week and it's a hell of a lot more stout than the typical F style clutch type.

I'm not sure that really equates to any additional clamping force however.

Beyond 24" are F clamps worth it anymore? I've had a few projects that need something longer than 24", so I considered picking up 36", but I wasn't sure if they had it in them. I would love a couple of Bessey or Jet parallel clamps, but the price is hard to stomach.

Falco posted:

Aren't those considered parallel clamps?

Baronjutter posted:

Hi woodworking thread! It's been a long time since I've built anything out of wood now but I want to make a big hobby storage thingy sort of like this.

jailbait#3 posted:

The industry had a chance to get in on the ground floor, they said no thanks. They've had a decade to come up with their own safety technology, and the best they've done is fitting saws with better riving knives and blade guards that most users immediately remove

Corky Romanovsky posted:

Hey, man. I hand planed the gluing surfaces, too. I didn't get around to anything else today, though.

Super Waffle posted:

Very nice! Birds eye maple and walnut?

Hubis posted:

So after my earlier derision, I will say that I think it's important to not be *too* precious about preserving wood for its own sake. Wood is nice because it adds natural warmth and texture that you can't really get with painted trim, and if it's done particularly well the craftsmanship can serve as a kind of ornamentation to the room. if, on the other hand, your wood detail is in fairly poor repair or you want more color by painting the plaster instead then painting the trim can be a perfectly valid choice. So go with whatever you decide to do with a specific goal in mind, and be open to all options as a means to an end. If you like the wood, then figure out what it is about the wood you like (it sounds like you appreciate the warmth it brings to the room) and work to compliment it.

I mean essentially all painted trim is wood that someone decided to paint for some reason or another.


I think the problem is that going any lighter at all means that you really need to remove all the stain, otherwise you will have consistency problems in whatever you end up with. Looking at this picture and the amount of work you'd need to materially strip the darker pieces of wood, you might honestly be better off just removing and replacing the upper sections (if it's not too onerous) and then staining to match.

Feenix posted:

First coat of poly is on. I’m new to this. I have 220 sanding sponge block. I assume... I want to brush lightly? How lightly?

Bad Munki posted:

Finally finished smoothing and finishing this thing, got to put it in place tonight. I’m ecstatic with the result.

Huxley posted:

Is there a way to finish an edge on something like that that isn't, "cover it with real wood?" I assume you can't like, rout a cove bit through it or anything.

Wife has asked for an extra-deep bookcase for her music studio (like, 18" square at the base) and I've only ever really worked in project pine.

Tres Burritos posted:

It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho.


I have also learned that I'm absolutely going to need to build some kind of Thien cyclone for my planer to handle all this, does anyone have a build they recommend, or are the dimensions not like 100% critical?. Is there a performance difference between the ones that sit "in" the trashcan vs on top of it? Most of the ones I see online sit on top and are perfect snowflakes, I don't really want to spend a whole bunch of time on this if I can get 90% of the performance for less work and a slightly uglier looking build.

Jaded Burnout posted:

I’m replacing some screws used to hold down ply flooring and adding some more, to deal with creaks. The ply and most of the joists are new, but some of them are 100+ years old.

Do I need to predrill holes? The screw manufacturer (spax) says no in its specs and I’m sure the builders didn’t when they put in their screws, but these are longer and thicker, and I’m an anxious type.

Here’s the screws I’m removing and the new ones going in:

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

it doesn't move when you change the height of the blade?

Mr. Mambold posted:

It should be labeled as enamel for wood application vs. flat latex for wall. Go with oil based paint for wood. Also, HD carries Behr, which is, or was a quality brand.

Javid posted:

Oh hey I made my mom one of those a couple years ago

Apollodorus posted:

So I was going to ask a more interesting woodworking question, but this is probably more practical and relevant:

While my wife's away on her research trip, I'm going to do some big house projects. One of these is to repaint our kitchen cupboards. They're about 50/50 solid wood and composite AFAIK, in that the doors and doorframes are solid but the shelves and sides are veneer.

Would spray painting the doors be a good option, or would it be best just to use roller and brush for the whole project? I guess either way I probably don't want to be spray painting inside, regardless of how thoroughly I might be able to mask off the rest of the kitchen...

(If we had a bigger budget we'd just replace all of them, since they're kind of cheap and I suspect the previous owner redid the kitchen cheaply in order to get the house sold.)

Feenix posted:

Yea, I’m sure they are. Do we think it foolhardy to attach it to the bed frame? Also, by what means (nondestructive) would I attach it?