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LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

NomNomNom posted:

What is the mythical "lint free" cloth that can labels refer to?

Surgical or huck towels

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LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Stultus Maximus posted:

I started cleaning out my mom's garage this weekend. She said I had to finish up actually cleaning the place before I could start going through my father's tools, otherwise I'd never get anything done.
I did take a quick look for anything I'd want to use immediately.
I somehow spotted a curious looking thing. My heart quickened - was it a Stanley 45 combination plane? I've been wanting a plow plane! These things go for way too much on eBay!
So I slowly uncovered a Stanley 4.....6?



Did some research and it's a more focused plane than the 45, basically just for grooves and dados and a lot of people say it's more effective since it isn't trying to be everything at once. Sweet! And the blades aren't compatible with anything else so they cost a ton of money. Less sweet!

Anyway, the thing is in rough shape. It probably hasn't been touched since it was my grandfather's and he died in like 1962. I'm going to have to carve a new forward knob, obviously. More immediately, the metal parts are all entirely frozen in place.

To start out, is there anything I can soak this in to loosen up all the moving parts without damaging the tote and rosewood fence?

I’ve used a brass “toothbrush” with a mixture of gum spirits and jojoba oil to clean my old planes. The spirits break up the gunk, the oil prevents rust. I don’t think it needs to be jojoba, but Lie-Nielsen recommends it for rust prevention on planes.

I have a #45 that needs more cutters, and I’ve been told the cutters for the veritas combo plane will fit, but I haven’t tried yet.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Thanks, I hadn't seen him before but it's great to see one all apart. I'd loooooooove to have a slider and if I built cabinets all day I could probably justify the space and money, but I think for the time being I'm stuck with the Unisaw. Still awaiting diagnosis from the motor shop but I found a guy with some spare motors for $300 if it comes to that.

If you’re near Maine, I’ll give you one for free, as long as you take them all.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

New/used normal motors still aren't exactly cheap here, but this is a discontinued funky motor with funky mounts that was only made for this saw.

Are they 5hp 3 phase??? I'm not near maine but I might could take a trip...

I doubt it, but I'll check. We were throwing them out at work, and I only took the ones that I thought I could use, and I don't have the slightest hope of getting three-phase.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
A granite counter offcut is more than flat enough

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
I finished a shelf with shoe polish and mink oil, which is basically a wax finish. Use wax, rewax every time it looks a little sad, and enjoy the patina.

Or, just read https://blog.lostartpress.com/2020/11/30/rip-the-anarchists-finishing-manual/

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Is there a straightforward way to consistently darken wood just a little bit?

I'm planning out some wall mounted shelving, and I'm too cheap to use hardwood so I'm eyeing some decent pine that the local lumber yard carries. I don't care for the light color of pine or even what it looks like under clear finish.

Is there something besides stain I can use to darken it? Maybe an oil I can put a clear finish over? I tried watco's "danish oil" and it might as well have been straight polyurethane, the oil part of it doesn't seem to do anything visually.

I scoured Flexner's book already but it's (understandably) light on specific finish-wood interactions.


On another topic, I used someone else's DW735 planer and was pretty impressed. I might have to get one of those if I can shoehorn it into my little shop.

I like minwax "natural" stain as a way to give pine a little depth and darken it under a clear finish.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anyone ever seen/tried 3d printing small hand planes? I'm really more thinking of like, scraper/scratch stock holders for moulding profiles, where the moulding curves along the work and the plane needs to be slightly rounded like a coachmaker's plane. The 3d-printed (or wood, tbh) part would be roughly the same profile as the finished molding and support the scratch stock or scraper to hold it at a consistent angle to keep the profile consistent.

I’ve printed a bullnose plane that uses double or single edge razor blades, and I’m modeling a new wedge for my wooden skewed moving fillister plane.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Stultus Maximus posted:

Do you know how to get a pristine Stanley no 45 with 20+ cutters for a steep discount?


Get one without Stanley's name on it:


:woop:

I got a 45 and a pair of dynaco a25 speakers for $10 at a yard sale some years ago. The speakers work great, the 45 only has a 1/2 inch flat cutter.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
I’d use clear poly over latex with primer or black spray paint over primer.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Home depot red oak? Check. Home Depot red minwax goop? Check. Classic early days woodworking project-we all started here, and you have great things ahead of you!

My first project, I finished with the Home Depot red oak with shoe polish. It worked way better than I expected.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I think Chris Schwarz did a blog post where he compresses round tenons using a pair of channel locks so they swell up with glue. A metal working vice would probably do a good job on compressing loose tenon stock a bit, but I imagine that would get old pretty quickly when you have a couple dozen to do.

I wonder if the cheap Harbor freight arbor press would do it?

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

wesleywillis posted:

Do you guys really have to hide stuff from your wives or am I just not in on an in-thread joke?

Christmas presents?

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
its $8 for a pad and block at home depot, with the same screw fitting as a roller. Just get the block.
I polyied a ceiling last fall, and a block on a broom handle cut short worked perfectly, and the pad was much easier to clean.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Applicator-and-More-10-in-Lambskin-Pad-with-Block-11001/100585512

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Calidus posted:

I am putting a counter top in my laundry room. Couple follow up questions on wood counter tops:

- Alternatives to butcher block? Nice Plywood + board to hide the edge? A glue up seems like more work than I probably want to do.
- Is there a magic secret to sink cut outs other than practicing with my jigsaw on something cheap and buy a new blade.
- If I am ripping butcher block with a circular saw, is best way do that put foam board under it then just cut on my garage floor so I don’t have worry about supporting it?

Do you have a habitat ReStore near by? They often have very nice used counters near me for decent prices. A couple times I've even bought ones with the right sink cutout, even.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Selling plans now for my infinitely adjustable tablesaw taper jig:

My favorite jig ever.

I’m already getting ads for bootleg versions on Instagram

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Calidus posted:

I’m definitely not cutting undermount sinks any time soon. I used fostner bits to drill out the 4 corners and get the radius required, then used a jig saw and straight edge to make 4 cuts. One of the cuts isn’t great looking, I was trying keep saw pushed against the Straight edge I hit a knot. The blade ended up cutting at an angle. I think I might try to do it in multi passes if I was doing it again.

For undermount cutouts, you cut undersize, then clean up with a router template bit.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Casimir Radon posted:

I’m considering buying a premade maple butcher block from Lowe’s, sawing it down to the size I need and putting some metal table legs on it. Every time I go back to my hometown I end up taking over my mom’s dining room table with my WFH setup and after 3 years it’s getting pretty old for everyone. In my old room there’s a 33” wide space I can use, and that doesn’t lend itself very well to anything you can just go and buy.

I’m just interested in checking feasibility here, and seeing if there’s anything I haven’t thought of. 33” is pretty short so I wouldn’t think I need to be adding any C channel. I’d seal it up really well and use threaded inserts to put the legs on.

I’d like to build a butcher block someday but right now I’d just like a faster and cheaper solution.

I had an ikea cardboard honeycomb desk built like that, it worked. I moved the legs over to a $10 solidcore door with oak veneer from the local Habitat restore and that was great. I didn't use inserts to hold the legs on.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
Build a Chris Schwarz staked bench, they’re awesome.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
Only good thing I’ve heard about elm is the same properties that make it hard to work make it good for stick chair seats.

We have a cutting board of reclaimed urban elm. After it warped, I tried to plan it flat again, and it was brutal. Tear out from every direction.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
Matte Polyurethane

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

epswing posted:

Ok, thanks!

Follow up question, it’s above a radiator, I probably should have thought about this sooner but are there any precautions I should take, or anything I should expect to happen (or not happen) with it going through heat cycles 6 months of the year?

I should have specified water based, too, it won’t yellow like oil base.

If you use an alkyd enamel instead of latex, you won’t have to topcoat with poly. I like Ben Moore advance.

Plywood should be fine with heat cycles.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

What kind of paint did you use and how long ago did you paint it? Most paints take like 30 days to really fully cure. Latex paints always stay a little gummy like that. Sherwin Williams makes some alkyd or urethane enamels that dry really hard and not tacky that are great for furniture. I wouldn’t top coat it with another product, but if you want to go that route definitely wait the full 30days for the paint to completely cure before you topcoat it.

I would recommend an alkyd enamel instead of poly over latex, but its better than bare latex. We did our 4 year olds bookshelf with it, and it’s holding up great.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

EPICAC posted:

Does anyone have plans for a small workbench that they like? I’ve been using an ancient table that the previous owner left in the basement. In general I have roughly 48-64” in width available.

The The Anarchist’s Workbench is free, and a great read, even if you aren’t planning to build a workbench.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

ColdPie posted:

Anyone have strong feelings on air filters? For my small shop with only a bandsaw and hand sanding, I'm thinking of getting the smallest ceiling mounted model from Grizzly. It's not HEPA, but that's a big bump in price & noise.


I have a squirrel cage blower from a furnace in a shop made box with a 20x20 high MERV furnace filter. Works great!

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
Becksvoort goes to 400 or 600 on cherry.

https://blog.lostartpress.com/2019/02/26/on-craftsmanship/

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
Masonite/hardboard?

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
It’s amazing what some scotchbrite and oil can do for a cast iron table.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
That is max output from a 15amp/120v outlet.

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LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
I’ve used shoe polish and mink oil for some quick and dirty apartment furniture, and it’s worked great.

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