Woodworking: it was hella tight and took a lot of pounding to get in

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Woodworking: it was hella tight and took a lot of pounding to get in

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Help me goons, I got a taste of woodwork throwing some removable shelves into a footlocker to make a drinks cabinet and now I think I'm jones-ing for more.

I've since got an idea in my head about building a free-standing decorative fireplace surround to add a nice hardwood mantelpiece to our unfortunately electric fireplace. I haven't cut a dovetail or tenon since woodwork class about 20 years ago and almost my whole tool chest is devoted to auto mechanics and metalwork.

I would like some advice on which tools to focus on first as I feed this new and expensive hobby.

I have some basic bits that I used round the house, a tenon saw, awls, marking knives, a scratch marking mortice gauge and various dividers / squares from the metal bench. On a whim I purchased an 8 inch gents saw on the weekend because it was a good price and I didn't have a fine saw for dovetailing. I have stuff like shop aprons and a few japanese sharpening stones up to 12k grit from my occasional hobby of razor and knife restoration. Also a billion hammers because I do blacksmithing and light metal work.

So far I have identified that I'm really going to want at the minimum:

A few good chisels (bevel edge or cabinetmakers? a pairing chisel too?) - I was considering these Narex chisels, maybe a 6mm, a 10mm and a 20mm?
A jack plane (I read a No.5 1/2 or a No.62 is a good all rounder?) - I was considering this Quangsheng one
A small block plane for tidying up joints and fitments - One of these?
A cutting gauge for nice tidy joints - One of these or a Veritas
A jeweller's saw for cutting out dovetail waste and such - I've wanted an excuse to buy a Knew Concepts saw for ages anyway

Is there anything else I'm going to hurt without? Anything here that's just not necessary?

The new weapon of finger mutilation:

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jan 19, 2015

# ¿ Jan 19, 2015 14:55

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:47

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

thespaceinvader posted:

I don't know where you're located, but if you're able to, pop over to Workshop Heaven in person and talk to the owner, he's Good People and will help you out greatly, in particular with things like setting up your new plane.

The Quangsheng planes are good, I have a 41/2. The Quangsheng marking gauge is also good. Don't forget a good square and a bevel gauge. I got the middle-sized Moore&Wright square I think, but got a cheapo bevel gauge from Screwfix as the cost of the ones at WH seemed way too high for what you get.

Alternatively, seriously consider getting a set like this http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Workshop-Heaven-Fine-Woodworking-Starter-Set.html

I've not found a coping saw to be wildly worthwhile, especially not one as expensive as the knew concepts ones - you can clear out joint waste with a chisel - hog out the majority by cutting multiple kerfs with your tenon saw first.

Thanks for the reply. I'm down in Guernsey and none of my semi-regular trips to the UK take me anywhere near so unfortunately a visit is not likely.

Yeah, I researched the Quangsheng planes quite a bit, reviews are really good between the "Herp derp chah-nees took r jerbs" ones. I'm leaning more towards the No.62 now as an all rounder. I really don't mind spending the time to swap out irons and adjusting as I'm not making anything to a time frame.

The set looks good except for the fact that I already have a couple of the things like the square, although maybe if the chap is friendly I can call up and swap it for a 5 inch jewellers saw or put the discount towards a No.62. I'm really well sorted for marking out with marking knives and multiple high quality vintage engineering squares, dividers & scales in my kit from metalwork. Am I likely to be using all the chisels at the start? There's not much discount from buying a box of six over buying six individually as I need them.

I know it's not strictly necessary for doing fine joinery but the Jewellers saw will get used all over the workshop with different blades and the KC ones are super sexy. Like motorbikes and bottles of single malt, the ideal amount of a tools in the shop is n+1, right?

# ¿ Jan 20, 2015 12:44

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

thespaceinvader posted:

I'd be surprised if he wouldn't be willing to at least discuss cutting a deal like that over the phone.

I want the Knew Concepts saws they are brilliant. I just don't need them and space is at a massive premium for me.

Emailed them - They're more than willing to swap things about. Nice not to deal with jobsworths for once.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

All done the nightstand, this could have easily been two nightstands. Solid cherry, with oak drawer sides. Finished with a few coats of garnet shellac and paste wax. I took a bunch of progress pics, so when I finally get around to uploading them I'll link the album here.

I stuck little wedges in the back to secure the back panel nice and tight so it wouldn't rattle.

Hand cut half-blind dovetails. I wanted to use walnut as the secondary wood, but couldn't find a place close to me selling any. I was also too lazy to stain the oak to a walnut brown.

Beautiful.

EDIT: to stop the rattle, instead of wedges, maybe get some thick wool yarn and a putty knife and poke it into the gap all the way round. Invisible and it will stop the rattles while still allowing a little movement for the wood as it expands and contracts.

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jan 22, 2015

# ¿ Jan 22, 2015 09:53

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Magnus Praeda posted:

Do you happen to have plans for these? They look like exactly what I need to store my homebrew.

Seconded, I have a home brewing buddy.

# ¿ Jan 28, 2015 10:01

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

krysmopompas posted:

Probably a long shot - does anyone up in here do any work with wood in a marine, boat building, or any similarly water-intensive context? I'd like to know some more about waterproofing, specifically something like the West System epoxy resin.

I lived on my boat for 4 years.

I think that pretty much any epoxy is going to do the job. Marine epoxies are just normal epoxies with an anchor printed on the label and a 200% price bump. The epoxy undercoat for my anti-fouling is normal 2-pack epoxy floor paint on the advice of one of the local boat builders who has been in the business 20 years.

If you want to avoid coatings entirely you can just use iroko. All the qualities of teak without the price and import restrictions. No loving around, just a scrub and a rub down with teak oil once a year.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2015 10:24

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

krysmopompas posted:

This is for shower walls and a raised floor platform. I've already got a properly constructed and waterproofed shower (kerdi system on a concrete pan) which would otherwise be ready for tile, so there aren't any leakage concerns. The waterproofing is purely to extend the life of the wood and guard against stains.
[...]
Would you really not need additional waterproofing for constant exposure on these super oily/dense woods? It seems like you'd still get enough expansion/contraction over time that limiting the amount of moisture would still be a good thing.

The drainage boards for the communal showers at the Marina where I lived were all oiled Iroko. They've been in constant, heavy use for 2 years now and show no signs of degrading. The only thing you would need to be wary of is trapping moisture between the wood and a non breathing surface in any kind of large cross section, as even teak and iroko can rot if not allowed to dry. So if you are mounting it to a sealed wall, you may want to add small standoffs to the fixing points and make sure the air gap between wood and wall can drain.

These woods are used for deck boards and external rails on boats with no treatments other than a yearly oiling.
http://www.theyachtshop.biz/how_we_do_it.html

quote:

I don't know much about boats, but anti-fouling is on the bottom and you do that because it's always in the water? My only concern there would be how it would stand up to friction from the water spray. If it works on speedboat hulls then it's probably good for a shower.

That was just to illustrate that "Marine" epoxies are pretty much bullshit, but yes, this stuff gets used to coat workshop floors and protect hulls on powerboats. Epoxy is durable as gently caress. I would avoid it for the reasons others have cited though, it doesn't breath, so if moisture does get in, it's trapped. Varnished wood breathes, oily, dense wood breathes even better.

PS: I really like the idea of a hardwood shower, keep us updated.

EDIT: PPS: If you are having trouble finding Iroko, it's sometimes called "African Teak". Iroko as a name seems to be more common here in the commonwealth.

# ¿ Jan 30, 2015 13:31

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0Mod_92VZA
Terrifying.

# ¿ Feb 4, 2015 17:56

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Geop posted:

Do any of you guys have a recommended or "favorite" method for removing rust? The refurbishing I've done to date weren't big on rust, but I'll likely clean this one up just for the sake of appearances.

Depends on the individual job.

If you have a very rusted part, especially one with odd nooks and crannies, and you have a 12v battery charger, you can use electrolysys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka6ArN_ehas

Gentle media blasting (soda, walnut shell etc) is also a good option if you have someone locally.

Otherwise, as mentioned, a wire wheel is great for bare/painted steel/iron, rough sisal buffing wheels can be useful on softer materials like brass / bronze parts.

For spot-rusted chromed steel parts, ball up a piece of aluminium foil and scrub it with that. Use a corrosion inhibitor wax or polish to prevent further rust spots.

EDIT: I haven't tried it yet, but cider vinegar is apparently good for rust too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F4TNqsK8Ck

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Feb 10, 2015

# ¿ Feb 10, 2015 15:04

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Magnus Praeda posted:

One last note is the legality of pallets. They're actually kinda pricey to buy and the ones by the dumpster may not actually be being thrown out but waiting to be picked up. Similar to milk crates, stores (especially smaller ones) can get charged a replacement fee for missing pallets by their suppliers.

Be especially wary of the blue ones.
http://www.logisticshandling.com/articles/2014/05/07/why-should-you-be-careful-of-blue-pallets-and-what-are-the-alternatives/

# ¿ Feb 16, 2015 10:23

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

The correct number of clamps, like any tool, is n + 1.

Where n equals the number of clamps you already have.

# ¿ Mar 3, 2015 12:08

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

There are already convincing proofs that proximity and use of tools in greater numbers than your own can significantly effect your optimal tool number, both for specific tools and generally.

It can be reasonably presumed that your minimum optimal number for any given tool is 1. I have certainly observed this to be the case.

Furthermore this minimum number seems to be independent of observation, it's often at least 1 before you have knowledge of the tool. This may be a quantum effect.

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Mar 3, 2015

# ¿ Mar 3, 2015 15:14

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

One Legged Ninja posted:

As the number of tools approaches 0, the Frustration Factor approaches infinity. It decreases as the number of tools approaches the Optimal Tool Ownership point, but increases again as tools first approach, then rise above Available Horizontal Surfaces.
Time Spent Maintaining Tools increases exponentially with Tools Owned, the exponent increasing proportionally to the Number of Projects in Your List.
And of course, the number of Projects Able to be Finished follows the inverse cube of the number of Tools Owned.

As you can see, the Optimal Tool Ownership Envelope indicates the most productive area of the curves, however, after extensive research, it was found that the demand for clamping devices follows no known 3-dimensional geometry, and may, in fact, exceed the current supply of the known universe.

# ¿ Mar 3, 2015 23:05

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

I can also recommend DSM Synolite polyester resin, very clear and it can be worked and polished easily.
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyester-casting-resin/dsm-casting-resin.html

# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 09:59

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Squibbles posted:

Reason number 145,643 why one can never have enough clamps

Can we get some custom CSS for the thread that just includes this post at the top of every page?

One Legged Ninja posted:

As the number of tools approaches 0, the Frustration Factor approaches infinity. It decreases as the number of tools approaches the Optimal Tool Ownership point, but increases again as tools first approach, then rise above Available Horizontal Surfaces.
Time Spent Maintaining Tools increases exponentially with Tools Owned, the exponent increasing proportionally to the Number of Projects in Your List.
And of course, the number of Projects Able to be Finished follows the inverse cube of the number of Tools Owned.

As you can see, the Optimal Tool Ownership Envelope indicates the most productive area of the curves, however, after extensive research, it was found that the demand for clamping devices follows no known 3-dimensional geometry, and may, in fact, exceed the current supply of the known universe.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 10:22

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

His Divine Shadow posted:

Anyone here store varnishes and stuff in plastic squeeze bottles instead of the metal cans they usually come in? I find it quite nice to be able to use a bottle with replaceable cap instead of prying open a can with a knife or screwdriver. Also less risk if you knock the thing over. Like I recently did with some stain...

Maybe build / find one of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOAK4-Kd7QA

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 10:28

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

LookieLoo posted:

Never use gloves with machines, instead of just a finger coming off it'll pull your whole hand in and it might not stop there.

Yep, nor long sleeves, long hair not tied back, etc.

Only exception I make is angle grinders, I always wear a pair of well-fitted work gloves, saved me from a few "grinder bites" now working in cramped conditions.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 09:37

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Cannon_Fodder posted:

How did you begin woodworking?
What resources have you found most useful?

1) Needed poo poo made of wood, or wood was the only thing to hand to make poo poo from, made some lovely wood things, made a lot of mistakes, learned from them. Now make slightly less lovely wood things.
2) Youtube / Roy Underhill for learnins, farmers/antiques/flea markets for tools.

Seriously, Roy's books are some great first-principles poo poo. I have this one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodwrights-Shop-Practical-Traditional-Woodcraft/dp/0807840823/

# ¿ Oct 2, 2015 15:01

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Hubis posted:

What would be the main limits here?

The main problem that I can see with that planer is that most drill presses fit the chuck via a friction taper. Tapers are not good with axial load so you could end up with the chuck taper backing out. I've seen it happen when people mount sanding/grinding drums in a drill press.

Would work great in a cheap milling machine though. Which isn't surprising as it's basically just a wood version of a fly cutter or face mill which are used to surface metals.

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Nov 17, 2015

# ¿ Nov 17, 2015 15:11

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Old or chinese, you're likely to be doing some work. I got a No.4 Bailey from a local farmers market and I probably did more work squaring the blade than I would have on a �20 faithfull. It was so skewed I had to put the adjuster all the way to one side just to get a straight shaving. Got a bunch of faithfull tools. They do a decent ball peen hammer if you're willing to re-dress them and their big dressmakers shears are great.

The most important thing is the blade steel, be it plane or chisel or pocket knife. If the blade will take and hold an edge you can always square up the edge and get it shaving sharp, even with just some glass, windex and wet 'n dry paper. If the steel is ok then the biggest problem with a cheap plane will have is probably a warped sole or sloppy adjustment. Soles can be trued up with a little patience and as long as the adjustment mech is basically functional then it will just be a bit of a faff.

# ¿ Jan 2, 2016 19:50

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Good haul at the auctions today.

They're all huge and awesome. The crosscut saw is 42 inches long on the blade.

# ¿ May 18, 2016 21:07

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Cakefool posted:

Back to basics question: I need a saw (maybe more than one, I don't know) I've got a crappy general handsaw from a diy store but that's it. What saws do I need? I want to do basic joinery, mortice & tenon, dovetails eventually. I'm in the UK if someone can make brand or store recommendations.

I have one of these for fine work, it's very nice and very inexpensive. It's precise and thin, good for dovetails.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00079YHQM/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

Got one of these for general use, I think it's the one Paul Sellers likes, there's also a 24 inch version linked on the suggestions
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spear-Jack...rds=22+inch+saw

I have one of these on my wishlist for joinery, I have a hard-point Irwin plastic-fantastic equivalent which is fine for now but I want something sharpen-able.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spear-Jack...P3HGKCMQFWF87AG

I am still learning, but these three saws seem to do me for most eventualities right now.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2016 21:40

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Not so much woodworking as just framing, but I'm building a GEODESIC DOME in my back garden. I'm not sure why I'm building it, I just felt compelled to do so. Just the usual compulsive build, suggested by a piping dream voice during an uneasy sleep on a clear windless night under the cold indifferent glare of endless stars. Will mostly be used for getting high, chanting, pondering orbs, exploring portentous geometries, things of this nature.

Decided to use roofing battens as they are cheap and plentiful. Some use broomsticks but She said that's a bit "on the nose", whatever that means.

A GEODESIC DOME requires two different lengths of rod. There are calculators available to tell you what length rods you need for a given diameter. This dome will be 4 meters wide. The connectors just screw into the end grain so it's important to use good screws to make sure they cut in, not just splitting the wood.

A combination of six-way and five-way connectors allows you to start building the dome from the middle.

For the base, I decided to build a seating area with nice wide and deep seating, but with enough room in the center for a fire pit (cleansing). Drawing it up in CAD I was able to make a handy combination BOM / cut-list with all the angles. Each length was labelled with a part number corresponding to the longest side and the two end angles, so 1231-18-36 would be a piece 1231mm long with an 18deg and 36deg cut on each end respectively. This made organising the whole build a lot easier.

Before I cut up the whole stack of lumber I built one of the 9 sacred sections as a sanity check. The angles all worked out (praise Her) so I just went and processed the whole cut list, took a couple of afternoons.

Making sure things level with the laser, and moving things into the proper alignment. This is where I'm up to so far. She says I can sleep when the dome is done, apparently it needs to be in place for some "alignment" next month. Yeah yeah, pipe pipe, keen keen, it will be done when it's done dream lady.

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Apr 30, 2022

# ¿ Apr 30, 2022 10:20

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

DOME

# ¿ May 7, 2022 00:13

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

So I think I discovered a new hole saw trick. Well, I'm sure someone has had the idea at some point but I can't find anything on google.

I bought what I thought was some 32mm waste pipe, but it was actually close to 35mm, I only have a 32mm hole saw. The shops are closed.

So I just... squeezed the hole saw in the vice so it was an oval with 35mm on the longest side.

This had several interesting effects. Obviously it made the kerf a lot wider, but this also had the effect of clearing the sawdust easier. As such it cut just as fast, maybe even faster as I didn't have to pull it up out of the cut so many times. It also made the plug in the middle smaller and thus very easy to remove afterwards.

I can't really think of any downsides tbh, it works better than it did before. Useful if you're cutting slightly undersized, or especially if you wanted to creep up on a really tight fit.

# ¿ May 17, 2022 22:14

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

My friend made this chair on a whim

Mix of new and reclaimed pallet wood. I loving love it.

# ¿ Aug 3, 2022 16:25

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Crusty glue / oil / varnish / paint storage chat

E: V V V exceptional post/handle synchronicity 🤌

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Feb 1, 2023

# ¿ Feb 1, 2023 13:34

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Took a historic wet oak timber framing course. It was rad and I'm ready to do my own. Happy to post some more still pics if people are interested. I'm still going through them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svfYCi_NikU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVW942TxN4w

I'm looking for a couple of framing chisels for wet oak and I'd appreciate any recommendations for manufacturers, models etc. In my kit already I have a big vintage shipwrights slick for smoothing and finishing, a 1/2 man crosscut greenwood saw for the big beams as well as a half decent pull saw for the tenons.

Probably want a 1.5in and a 2.something. I don't mind spending a hundo plus on each. I want long handles Ideally, for both leverage but comfort with my various computer toucher RSIs. The Japanese 'Anaya Chisel' is on my research list.

I could do with some decent dividers and a rip saw recommendation too, and I think I wouldn't mind it being another Japanese pull saw (long handles and better for my RSI).

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Mar 29, 2023

# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 14:40

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Leperflesh posted:

The longer the handle, the more awkward it can be to use with a mallet, so are you sure you want really long handles on these?

Yes. I spent the entire week wishing for something twice the length of a bench chisel. The timbers are big and you put them on slightly lower horses. A lot of the time is spend hand working the joints.

I've found these Japanese chisels on this odd little website since posting and they look promising.

https://covingtonandsons.com/2022/04/25/the-varieties-of-japanese-chisels-part-18-the-hantataki-chisel/

quote:

Northmen make some very expensive timber framing chisels & slicks and their sets are all long-handled slicks and then chisels with typical (like 6") handles.

I saw Northmen but tbh their whole vibe seems a bit masculinity lifestyle brand but if they're ok I'll reconsider.

quote:

One option is to buy some standard socketed chisels and if you find the handles too short, remove them and make some new ones at whatever length you prefer. If you have access to a lathe this is pretty simple, but even without one you can use a vise and a spokeshave to shave down square stock first to a hexagon and then to a round profile.

That's not a bad idea, I'll keep that in mind thanks.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 20:31

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Just Winging It posted:

https://www.fine-tools.com/zim.html MHG is not too well known, but from what I've heard they make quality stuff, and just so happen to make long framing chisels.

As for saws, an old, very coarse Disston (28", 3.5 tpi) is my go-to for hand-ripping, though you might need some luck finding one. Probably have to might them yourself, but frame saws are an option too if you're set on doing this by hand.

Thanks I'll check out MHG. I don't even know where I'd begin to find old disstons. Hand ripping is only needed when there is a knot in the tenon or something and you can't just pop it all out with a chisel so an induction hardened new saw will probably do me for a lifetime. I've managed to find a decent looking LARGE Japanese ryoba designed for ripping panels for not too much.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 20:52

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Leperflesh posted:

Ah! But is it the handles that should be longer, or is it OK if the body of the chisel is longer instead? E.g. is it just overall length that matters? For example, the MHG chisels Just Winging It linked to are 18" total length, while the Sorby framing chisels have 9" long handles and 10 1/4" to 11" blades for a total of around 19".

I essentially want a Stretch Bench Chisel. I've gone down a rabbit hole looking up historic japanese mortice workers (who exclusively cut mortices in green timber) and found what I need I think, there is a wonderfully eccentric tool exporter in japan and they do a hand made "Atsunomi" framing chisel for a very reasonable price.

This website is a delight
https://covingtonandsons.com/2019/06/10/the-varieties-of-japanese-chisels-part-8-the-atsunomi/

Sockington posted:

Hey, somebody is making a more ridiculous table than myself.

Edit:\/\/ oh yeah. It�s super impressive which is why I posted it.

drat. Did they give any context for building it that rigid?

E: and holy poo poo that... opposed half-tenon (?) joint on the sills

ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Apr 3, 2023

# ¿ Apr 3, 2023 10:45

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Hahaha yeah ok in that case it's certainly an option...

The Immovable Object re-imagined as a bench

# ¿ Apr 3, 2023 10:51

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Not exactly fine woodworking but I knocked up this dining room table out of 27mm engineered oak board. It folds up to the wall to give us more room in the lounge.

Cleaned up some old hinges I pulled off a derelict workshed.

Just need to add a stowage latch to the wall.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2023 17:45

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

Does anyone, by any chance, have a good video or resource in their bookmarks for making a stretcher frame for an art canvas? I have all the usual hand tools plus a well tuned compound mitre saw and track saw.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 10:10

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

stabbington posted:

I've followed https://trowzersakimbo.com/blog/2018/03/10/building-canvas-stretcher-bars-from-scratch/ for a few large canvases and never had them collapse on me or otherwise do weird poo poo. The quarter-round as a riser to keep the frame members from showing through the canvas is a protip and very easy to source.

I'll check that one out thanks - I already have some leftover quarter round from trimming the lounge. I've watched enough Baumgartner Restorations to know the importance of a beveled frame to prevent printing lol

quote:

"temagori-nokogiri"

Ugh and thank you this too, I've been looking for bigger japanese saws for framing up green oak and google is just so incredibly hosed now.

Come to think of it, I can't think when I last saw someone get told to "just loving google it" when asking a question on any of my forums. When did we all just accept that search is dead?

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 10:38

ReelBigLizard: Feb 27, 2003; Fallen Rib

If it was a standard size or even divisible into multiples of 10cm I could just buy a stretcher quite reasonably and while it isn't especially large this canvas was originally on a stretcher of completely random size knocked together by the artist out of reclaimed wood, so I *can* get the frame made to order but its going to be quite pricey.

I have done those mortice/mitres before when I had to replicate some historic windows, they weren't easy but I suppose it wouldn't be that much more difficult to add some clearance for wedges.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2024 11:29