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echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

dv6speed posted:

That won't actually work very well in real life because the air compressor draws too much current to be used at the same time you are striking an arc. For quick and dirty jobs that don't need much air it'd be OK, but more involved ones would not work well.

The more generator power you are using, the less welding power you have, and vice versa.

How big a tank would you need for it be practical to alternate between cutting/gouging and runnign the compressor to refill the tank, you could surely get an acceptable duty cycle if it refilled the tank while you changed rods.

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echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

jovial_cynic posted:

ha. I'd forgotten that my oxy/acetylene rig can cut.

I don't think I'm at a point where I need super-precise cuts for anything that thick... but I'd like to do some artistic things with metal too thick for my plasma cutter. I'm just wondering if the oxy/acet cut will be too rough.

The head welder at my last job was a loving wizard with an oxy/acetylene torch, its all about steady hands, you only ever had to hit his cuts with a little bit of filing or a few seconds on the belt sander to make them perfect
you can also make up jigs to hold the torch for cutting radii, and we had a little attachment with wheels on it (i don't know if he made it or bought it) that allowed you to roll the cutting head along a big piece of flat and it kept the tip at a constant distance.
we used it to cut up to 1 inch plate on a regular basis, anything thicker than that we sent out to get water cut.

that said these plasma cutters that jay leno reviews look really neat,
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/segment/under-the-hood/hypertherm-plasma-cutter/

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Slung Blade posted:

awesomeness

You should make a new thread here or in AI for that post, so people who dont check into this one can enjoy it.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ambrose Burnside posted:

So how'd you get in if it's not open to the public?
(i don't know what most of that poo poo does but it still looks hella cool)

Slung Blade posted:

Flicker forge and the Canadian Museum of Making had the entire Irricana blacksmiths guild out for a demo and a tour.

He's in the guild i assume.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Welding and boots with unprotected laces is another good one.
I remember going to lunch and wondering why my shoes were loose after a morning of welding spear castings onto round bars for a railing, then i saw that pretty much all that was left of the laces was the knot and bow at the top.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

artificialj posted:

My aluminum channel stuff isn't very wide or deep (like maybe the bar is 2", with the channel being only about 1.5" wide). Think that's going to be a problem? I mean, I guess if it sits in there, it should be ok, right? Or do I need to go put together some monster sized thing?

edit: currently using some sort of aluminum t-slot material, sort of like this: http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/jennycxc/product-detailsqumjUdZlfhW/China-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-JB004-.html (1st google result, pay no attention to context, not recommending anything from this site)

edit 2: any advice on drill press speed?

edit 3: misjudged the size difference between my pipe and my channel, just tried to put the pipe on top of it (no go), ignore the question. I'm just going to have to find a bigger channel, or maybe make one. 2x4's?

I'd use a good quality holesaw at a low speed with coolant rather than try using drill bits. i'd make up a jig to hold it out of timber and bolt the jig onto the base of your drill press.

echomadman fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Aug 17, 2011

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

SmokeyXIII posted:

So I'm thinking about making some kind of metal fence for the front yard of my house thinking like 3/4" square bar or something but I like the idea of maybe doing some kind of a twist to it or maybe having something more decorative every so many posts.

How big of a project would this be as far as twisting a 36" bar and making the decorative stuff. I'm curious since I have lots of experience with metal work just not so much forging and Smithing.

are leaves hard to make?

I used to work making gates and railings and even though we had the equipment to do twisted bars we mostly bought preformed lengths unless it was for a really low volume job.
Our ironworker was a bigass Hebo hydraulic thing, not quite as cool as this one but close. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDCEeRtik8w. we used it to straighten flats after punching holes for railings, embossing patterns onto lengths of flat and the like. This is all cold working the metal, no forges involved.
I cant see a diy jig doing good repeatable twists without putting in a lot of work in making it.

Leaves and stuff like that are more Slung Blades thing, and would probably be nice to make yourself, but for twists and poo poo i'd just buy it premade.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Probably get a better answer to that in the woodworking thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334

but for woodworking you can use surprisingly simple setups to do turning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnv0DAR_gWA

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I'm going to try to go to Princess Auto this week to finally pick up that lil 70A stick-welder (albeit not on sale anymore :qq: ) and some other odds and ends, so I'll definitely swap out the electrode for carbon battery-rods or foundry stirring-rods within about 10 minutes of getting it home to try cooking up some calcium carbide.
I'm willing to bet that actually getting the acetylene into the lines at a nice, even pressure will be a lot harder, though.


Also, arc furnaces themselves are kinda blowing my mind right now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLWiJdsrDto is a guy liquefying tungsten in his garage with 35 amps at 40 volts :psyduck:

e: All this stuff right now- the stick-welder and the scary arc-furnace ambitions and the idea of turning chalk and charcoal into a fuel-gas is still gonna end up being cheaper than the tank purchase/rental and an initial fill or two. Even if it doesn't pan out I'm up a welder which I wanted a whole bunch anyways.

Acetylene is hilariously explosive, i really wouldn't fancy trying to compress and bottle it at home.
Those carbon arc furnaces look awesome though, i have a cheap old buzzbox stick welder in the shed i never use anymore.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Z3n posted:

Good news first: Those MIT machine shop videos are great. I found the manual for the mill so I'm going to handle some basic maintenance stuff shortly.

Unfortunately, I'm a little lost after that. I picked up a list of basic tools that I need, cribbing off the first few MIT videos:

I'm mostly working on parts and stuff for Japanese bikes, so I'm looking at mostly having to work in metric and aluminum. Should I buy my tooling in Imperial and convert back and forth? Or should I go metric all the way? Am I going to have difficulty finding tooling in one or the other?

Collets
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1646-pc-Precision-Collet/dp/B0000DD0OL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1326409748&sr=1-1
Enco has a blinding, and somewhat overwhelming array of options, because I don't even know what I need yet. Amazon doesn't seem to have any R8 collet sets in metric. Enco does but I'm not sure which way I should go there.

End Mills
Amazon has this set in imperial:
http://www.amazon.com/End-Mill-Set-pieces-Flute/dp/B002YPHSJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326412437&sr=8-1
And this set in metric with an imperial shank:
http://www.amazon.com/TTC-PRODUCTION-Metric-Set-Tool-Material/dp/B005DMP09G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1326412905&sr=8-2

Center Finder
Seems cheap and functional:
http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050103-Center-Finder-Shank/dp/B002SG7PPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1326412662&sr=1-1

Center Drills
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-CENTER-COUNTERSINK-Tooling/dp/B000N216SU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

Clamping kit
Looks like this kit should fit my JMD 15 as per the spec here:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/milling_drilling_equipment.php
http://www.amazon.com/CK-12-52-Piece-Clamping-8-Inch-T-slot/dp/B0007XXIE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326413278&sr=8-1

I'd buy that parallels kit but they're on backorder from HF:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enco-12-Piece-Parallel-Gauge-Block-Set-New-Box-/390376747324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae444713c

Also, how do I tell a good vise from a bad one and how much should I expect to spend on one?

Any comments on this stuff? Am I barking up the wrong trees? Should I just buy a single R8 3/8ths inch collet from Enco and that set of Metric End Mills?

Thanks to everyone for your help so far as well :)

Get good endmills, cheap ones are a false economy, but dont go crazy endmills designed for highly rigid cnc machines will not last in a little machine like that.
Like oxbrain said your dials are probably in imperial, so stick with that and keep a calculator handy.
I used to use a metric-imperial app on my phone when i was doing my machinist course but the magnets in the speaker attract micro swarf like crazy and once a sliver of steel went down into the headphones jack and shorted the contacts, putting my phone in headphones mode until i took it apart and cleaned it out. tldr: dont leave your phone anywhere near a milling machine.

i really like this guys youtube channel, he does some amazing stuff with the mini mills and lathes he has http://www.youtube.com/user/tryally and these videos by a crotchety old machinist are great http://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222/videos

Probably the most important thing you need to get is a good verniers, micrometer and dial gauge. Measure twice, cut once and all that.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Mr. Samuel Shitley posted:

Now, given that there are a metric shitload (thousandth-load) of posts in this thread, you might forgive me. I'm learning machining/CNC/toolmaking after a stint in the military and I'm looking to find a very small propane tank to fit inside of a 2" ID rocket fuselage. I have looked locally, to no avail, all they have is regular 3.5" or whatever, which are way too big and heavy for my aeronautical applications.

I plan on running my stout-rear end machined rocket engines on very aggressive fuels like N2O/Propane. but this won't happen unless I find tanks that will fit in a 2" ID fuselage.

Goons, Help! bitches, come!!

Have a look in airsoft forums maybe, my brother has a refillable airsoft pistol that uses "green gas" which is propane with silicone oil mixed in. maybe you could cannibalise a gun for its pressure vessel

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Lets Play Arson posted:

While we're on the topic, how do y'all feel about super cheap buzz box welders?

Aldi (a sorta weird German supermarket. I hear they're not so common in the states) is selling one away for cheap. Originally it was £35 and now it's reduced to... something. I'm not sure what, i'd have to ask. But i'd assume less than £35.

Comes with a handheld welding shield, which I hear is useless, some damp welding rods, which I hear are useless, and a toffee hammer, which I hear is useless. Plus it doesn't come with a plug and is reccomended to use more than the standard household 13 amps so i'd need to put a beefier line into the garage.

Er, well my concern is that while the welder seems cheap and ideal for just tacking things together it seems like it'd cost a whole bunch more in sundries like fancier welding rods and proper overalls... and heck, maybe even a fire extinguisher.

I have one and its pretty good, you need a good shield and quality rods but the welder itself is pretty solid.
I dont know where you got the idea that it doesnt have a plug, mine came with a 13A fused plug. to use anything above a 2.5mm/3.2mm rod i'd cut it off and fit a 16A plug http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3P.html

It'll burn 2.5s all day without a hitch, 3.2 may be pushing your 13A socket a bit if you're welding a lot.
The electrode holder is a bit lovely too but i replaced it with a better one from a broken welder in my old job.
Basically for less than 35 notes you'ld be a fool not to buy it.

edit:
I did already have a good shield and gloves etc, but you'ld need to buy those no matter what welder you got. a pack of good 6061 2.5mm rods is pretty cheap, the rods you get with it are garbage, maybe if they were dried in an oven they'd be ok but i just threw them out

echomadman fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Feb 29, 2012

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
I feel sorry for you Americans still having to gently caress around with fractional dimensions.
We had to do everything in Metric and Imperial on the machinist course I did (Ireland has(had) lots of American companies) but we rarely got a drawing with a fraction on it, just decimals.
That said that drawing isn't the worst I've seen, we got a few that were missing crucial dimensions.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ArhhcgSsm0

"MODERN MANUFACTURING -- COMMAND PERFORMANCE - Department of Defense 1963"
This is a nice video about CNC machining in the 60s, making missiles to deliver deadly atoms to the commies.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
That's impressive work fps_bill, my last job before I got laid off was making bespoke high end gates, railings, stairs and custom stuff like your deck/balcony. We got shafted by guys importing lovely cheap stuff from china, even with the cost of shipping it halfway around the world we couldn't compete.

People don't appreciate the sheer amount of work that goes into that sort of job. I hope you got suitably rewarded.

Was that stuff just painted? All our stuff was hot dip galvanised or zinc blasted to survive in our lovely climate.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

fps_bill posted:

The steel that is red was existing steel from when the home owner originally built the house. The stuff that looks straight from the mill is new steel I added. All the handrail is stainless steel. Stainless posts, flat bar, pipe, cable. The only part of the hand rail that isn't stainless are some of the crimp fittings which are zinc washed copper. Like I said earlier I got really good at sharpening drill bits after I was done drilling the posts.

The reason you might think it was painted was because before I put anything up I spent a good god drat long time with an orbital sander with 60 grit pads putting a nice scratch pattern on the stainless. I really don't know how to explain it but the finish that stuff got is amazing. After everything was up I had to back through with the orbital and hit some places where I joined pieces of pipe together. It gleams in the sunlight so hardcore.


As far as how i got the beams up we rented a fork lift with a telescoping boom. That made setting the structural pieces pretty easy. The one was the one above the door.

I meant the I-beams and support structure, even that would have to be dipped here is it was outdoors. Thankfully we didnt do much stainless work. We did all the exterior gates and rails for this place

The poor bastards that had to do this interior stair balustrade had their hearts broken. its all stainless with either a teak or mahogany handrail

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGjKRvGH17U

A clip from Hands, a nice documentary series from the late 70s about Irish traditional trades and crafts.
This one is about harvesting rushes but the first half is about traditional blacksmiths.

echomadman fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Apr 15, 2012

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
This is some interesting work, I don't know enough to say whether its a good idea or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH3XcsDdDoY

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Tubalcain the crotchety old machine shop guy from youtube is selling some foundry equipment for any of you americans in the illinois area
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PM6iq13iyGY

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ambrose Burnside posted:

2) How can I best join the two halves? I don't know a goddamn thing about welding/brazing aluminium, it's weird finicky metal I don't really do much with. Make that just brazing because I don't really have proper welding equipment beyond a tankless oxy-acetylene rig and a tiny baby anaemic stick welder.

I did a bit of research into this before, you can weld aluminium with Oxy/acetylene and the right fluxes, i imagine its pretty hard with very thin material though.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjGip_StNGY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMgYPFpGytY

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Chalupa Joe posted:

Nah, it's easy:
Front:


Back:


Bottom:


0.5mm Aluminium welded with OA, 2.4mm 4047 TIG wire, and Eutectic+Castolin 190 flux. :smug:

The trick is to use the thick filler rod as a heatsink, and to never hold the flame on the workpiece. Just keep passing it over then off of the joint, then once it's hot enough the flux melts, and your filler will just flash into the joint.

:golfclap:
Impressive.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ambrose Burnside posted:

This rules, Bealer's book talks a bit about wheelwrighting and it seems like an impossibly-frustrating super-specialized employ. Is old-time blacksmithey wheelwrighting good and truly dead yet? I can't see there being much demand for even revival-type modern stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO_yketZyUM here is a nice video made in the late 70s about carriage builders here in ireland, has a bit on making the wheels

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ambrose Burnside posted:

How can I buy nitric acid? It seems to be one of the most flexible and useful acids available for different metalworking processes, but doesn't seem to have an affordable civilian application like sulphuric acid (battery acid) or hydrochloric acid (pool acid) does. Also the whole "it's used to make explosives" thing, rendering it a monitored precursor.

I found a Popular Mechanics issue from 1935 that explains how you can synthesize your own from virtually nothing- it takes a spark gap actively arcing in a humid environment, and minimal equipment to contain it (literally a jar, a test tube, and some tubing). Problem being that I'd be able to render a test-tube at a time, and at an unknown concentration at that. Might still be usable if I just wanted a little bit for a Custom Fancy Mordant or a small etching or something.

e: Welp, you need something they call a "Ford spark coil", which sounds like a transformer to step up the current from the battery. I hate electric stuff why is it never simple :qq:

e^2: Nope, it's weirder. Apparently it's a scaled-up electric buzzer that uses an electromagnet and a springy portion to complete the circuit; it creates a barrage of forming and collapsing magnetic fields that induces a very high voltage across the spark gap. Apparently.

This popped up in my youtube feed today. making nitric acid from ammonium nitrate and sulfuric acid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYDFplw8iKg

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Slung Blade posted:

gently caress, tell me about it. Nothing like pulling a piece out and having a three meter tall shower of sparks go flying up into the night sky.

Pretty to look at, but man, don't be downwind. Those little buggers can sting. Or light your entire yard on fire, whichever.

Sparks from charcoal you say?
We did some bronze casting a while back, if you touched the bellows with the lid off the furnace this happened



echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Hacketts guide to diy welding rods using silica gel, old newspapers, coat hangers and lye.

http://blog.makezine.com/projects/make-33/diy-welding-rod/

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Brekelefuw posted:

sherline stuff


Nice, I'm very jealous right now. A sherline lathe and mill have been high on my want list for ages.
there's a Brazilian guy who has loads of videos of him doing really cool stuff with his sherline lathes and mills
http://www.youtube.com/user/tryally/videos

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

ReelBigLizard posted:

Well, as Random Number had some luck, I'll present you guys with my problem:

I'm not having much luck finding a good hardwood log to mount my anvil on. I've been thinking about different ways to do it and searching on various forums, I've narrowed the options to:

Getting a small oil drum, filling the bottom with cement and packing the anvil into gravel dust in the top few inches.

Getting a reclaimed oak railway sleeper (2600 x 250 x 150mm), cutting it into six equal parts about 430mm long, and bolting them all together with chunky threaded rod, maybe M12 making a cube about 430 x 500 x 450mm. I'm liking this idea best right now.

Edit: a bit like this:


Any other ideas? I can't find an anvil stand locally and shipping would be ridiculous. The local tree surgeons do get big hardwood logs but they know the price of oak and it wont be cheap.

In my old job we had our anvil set in half an oil barrel that was filled with sand, worked really well.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

ReelBigLizard posted:

Edit: forgot what I actually came to post here. Found a local supplier for railway sleepers but they want £26 per sleeper and £10 to deliver unless I'm spending more than £100. Fuckers. The other option I have is a pile of old scaffolding boards, at least they will be easier to cut and drill.

Landscape gardeners have ruined railway sleeper prices, £26 sounds about right, however the construction crash has flooded the old scaffolding board market so they can be had for 2-3 quid each here

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

fps_bill posted:

Yea probably, normal people would just use a stove but he likes open fire. I think he said he paid $35 for the piece of 8x8, and 35ish for the handles. By the time he makes me a pot of soup he'll have over 100 in it. It took a lot longer than I thought it'd take for me to build it. IMO he got off cheap with me charging him a pot of soup.

Drilling those holes by hand alone is worth a steak main course to follow the soup in my opinion, especially when you know that a machine like this exists
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7grjE7obUo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7grjE7obUo

iforge that's nice work, my last job was making and installing gates and railings and we always preferred to epoxy anchor bars down into the walls as well especially on stone walls like that.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

ductonius posted:

The stainless *may* have been passified, which involves dipping it in nitric/fluoridric acid paste or electropolishing. Removing any significant amount of material will remove the passivised layer and increase the amount of metals leached into cooked food. *However* stainless steel is generally food-safe even without passivisation, and the amount of leached metals will be tiny anyway, so it's probably not even worth considering. If you want to be sure, take the pots to an electropolishing place and a few minutes in the dip will restore the passive layer; you may very well be improving the pots beyond what the manufacturer did.

Similarly, the aluminum pots may have been passified by anodization, and you may have to reanodize after cleaning. Then again, maybe they weren't, and you don't. :nyoron:

for what its worth the term is passivated/passivation, not passified or passivisation

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Birthday is coming up soon so I bought myself an efficient german velder.

http://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete.de/en/wig-tig-acdc-200-puls-mit-plasma/stahlwerk-acdc-wig-200-puls-mit-plasma-vollausstattung.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USK5TnhrtWc

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

ReelBigLizard posted:

It looks like it's German designed, built largely in China and then finished / QC-ed in Germany with higher quality components, which seems like a good compromise.

I can MAPP braze and stick weld to a functional level, I just want to dip into TIG so I can do more materials (and TIG Braze too). I'm not interested in becoming a TIG weld fetishist though so as long as it can do functional welds then I think it will fit my needs. I like that it comes with a bunch of stuff like assorted rods, auto mask and the plasma cutter head too.

I'll report back on how good it is, I haven't TIG welded anything in years since I was made redundant from my old metalworking job and had to go back to computer janitoring.

I'm looking forward to having an inverter based stick welder just for quick jobs too. Looking forward to the plasma cutter the most though, I just hope my crappy compressor can keep up.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Pagan posted:

The judges are kinda spergy, especially the martial arts guy who grins like a teenage boy every time he says "it will cut!"


And "It wiill KEEEEll!"

I just watched ep2, I liked it, but i'd prefer if it was points rather than elimination based so you'd get to see more of everyone's work.

They do try to inject fake drama but the contestants don't seem to be too interested as what they're doing is difficult and needs their full attention. So its mostly the judges pantomiming over their deliberations.

Probably going to binge watch them all now.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
That appalling duty cycle may just be at its rated maximum amperage and will be better the lower you go.
Adding some active cooling will help you get a bit more out of it.
Post some more pics of the labelling on it.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
This is neat, internal machining on cutaway cylinders filmed with strobed lighting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78XYpr2Vnvg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78XYpr2Vnvg

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Has anyone ever seen an anvil like this before?
https://www.donedeal.ie/antiques-for-sale/round-anvil/11520818

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Motronic posted:

It looks like a valve out of a gigantic diesel motor (think cargo ship).

That's what i thought too, for 45 quid i'm tempted to buy it anyway, its not far from me.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

fps_bill posted:

Not to change the subject but I saw that the one guy from "men at arms reforged"is going to be on forged in fire next week. Should be a pretty good episode, that guys a beast.

I didn't know it was back on, thanks.

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echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost
Just watched this weeks Forged in Fire, That Burt guy is amazingly efficient, they really had to stretch to amp up the drama for him when he really never had anything to worry about.

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