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I'd be down for getting some extra-s but seeing as I'm from Canada I doubt it'll be worth it for me. But I do have a Subaru question that hopefully someone knows the answer to. I bought a 2010 Impreza WRX roll over and I'm going to be using the motor for a swap, from the accident the drivers side of the car got pretty beat up and the fuse box and wiring on that side got irreparably damaged. I've already bought a replacement for the fuse box but I can't seem to find the plugs that go from the body/dash harness to the fuse box. I'm talking about the fuse box that sits in front of the drivers side strut tower in the engine bay, not the one behind the dash. Does anyone know where I can find someone who sells these plugs or if any other Subaru uses the same plugs? Only thing I've been able to find is full harnesses for $too-much$ and I'd rather not buy a whole harness if the rest of the wiring I have is intact. I was thinking of posting a thread on the swap once I gather all the parts I need and I'm ready to drop the new motor in. It's going into a 03 Baja, what do you guys think?
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Jul 23, 2012 21:27
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My guess would be the synchro's are worn out on those gears, with the car being that old it doesn't seem too surprising, you don't have this problem with any other gears?
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Feb 18, 2013 20:36
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For all metal ones, I've usually seen mitsumoto radiators being all metal, as well as koyo, I don't have experience with them so I can't really tell you much more about them.
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Mar 10, 2013 20:49
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Just need a little help from someone with an 08+ WRX or STI. I'm going to be making a scoop in the same style for my Baja and I want to get some measurements from an oem one before I start cutting into my hood. Specifically I would like to know how wide, long, and high the scoop is. I saw a few around and have eyeball measurements but didn't have a tape measure. Also would be useful to know the distance between the start of the intercooler and the entrance of the scoop. Any other measurements that might be useful would be appreciated. There's lots of info for the older style of scoops but since the new ones are molded into the bumper it looks like nobody has measured it out. My plan is to cut the hood in an H pattern with one part lifted and the other sunken in with the rest of the construction and styling with fiberglass and Bondo to smooth it out.
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Jun 4, 2013 16:32
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Wrar posted:I'm wondering if my throwout bearing is dying. 2005 WRX ~125k miles. It makes a kind of whine/grinding noise when the clutch is fully disengaged, but if I push it in a centimeter or two it stops/becomes much quieter. I can record it tomorrow. Does it sound anything like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8hsAB1O434 Ended up being my throw out bearing. Generally noise disapearing when you let go of the clutch and reapearing when you press it in points to throw out bearing. Probably best to change your clutch while your in there since most of the work would be done.
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Jun 7, 2013 05:57
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You should be able to find a switched 10A fuse somewhere in there. If you don't have access to a wiring diagram, just prod every fuse with a light probe and see which ones are switched with ign/acc. Your boost gauge will not pull anywhere near 10A, let alone 15A so that won't be a problem but if you're worried about throwing a 15amp fuse in the bussman, you can try it with a 10amp first and see if it blows, just keep some fuses handy, depending what fuse you tap, you might get away with a lower rated fuse and it won't damage anything since the wiring should be rated at or above the higher fuse rating.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:27
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There's nothing nicer than having a brand new windshield, mine was replaced 2 years ago due to a nasty rock chip causing a crack and it looked great after. 2 years later and it's beat up already  would change it again if it wasn't for the fact that it's heated so replacements are $Texas$
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Jul 16, 2013 00:24
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That thing looks immaculate, looks like an amazing steal for $1200. The misfire is probably a plug wire or something along those lines. Once you get it let us know how it acts with the misfire and that should help narrow down what it might be.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:37
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Any other mods? turbo inlet, bpv, etc?
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Aug 2, 2013 01:22
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GrAviTy84 posted:hoses from a fuel filter In addition to the above, I've had luck spraying a little penetrating fluid and using a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the hose around the pipe. They're still a bitch to take off though.
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Aug 12, 2013 02:19
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Since I'm a fan of overkill when it comes to lighting, I'll try to help. It's too new to track down parts in a junkyard so if you'd want to reverse this mod anytime soon I think you're stuck with buying a new grill from Subaru. The intake temps might rise a little but it shouldn't change anything too much, you're just cutting the little air dam that helps push cold outside air into the intake from my understanding. Reduced flow over the radiator shouldn't be too bad either, the lower grill draws in air for the radiator as well. For the grill melting, I'd probably stick to only running then while in motion. They're big lights so the heat should be a little more spread out and it might be ok to run then while stationary but no guarantees. Once you have them installed maybe take a thermal probe and see just how hot the grill gets. Good luck, and worst case you'd just need to get a new grill.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:09
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Fifty Three posted:
Honestly it's probably easier to just find a different axle back, should be a quick 10 mins to swap. Barring that take it to an exhaust shop and get a different muffler welded in, as long as it's not crazy restrictive compared to your current one you shouldn't have an issue with the current tune. Look at the down pipe right after the turbo, some have the cat just a few inches from the downturn and you won't be able to see it unless you're right under it, or you might be able to check from above depending how cluttered your engine bay is.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:51
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Fifty Three posted:I checked from above and as close to underneath as I could get, I didn't see a cat on the downpipe. I'll get it up on jackstands tomorrow and have a closer look. It really shouldn't require a retune for just an axle back, especially if you're looking at a performance oriented one. The difference in back pressure will be minimal unless the new one is ridiculously restrictive. e: ^ what be said. Is the only issue how loud the exhaust is or does it drone too? Bajaha fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 02:16
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It's one of those things that could go either way. If the bearing starts loosing metal it'll do quite a number on the rest of the gearbox. If you're lucky it might last another year with just making noise and not grenading everything else, or you wait and be looking at either replacing the entire gearbox or rebuilding everything. It's up to you if you want to risk it.
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Sep 22, 2013 21:10
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It's generally recommended to have some form of heat shielding, running around without might work for a little while but might cause issues with whatever is in the surrounding area if it gets way too hot. Plus you might spool a little later because you're losing energy in the form of heat before the turbo, but it might be negligible. Exhaust wrap isn't too expensive and you can easily do it yourself. You'd have heat shielding and no rattles. If you go that route I would recommend the newer titanium wraps, much nicer to work with.
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Oct 20, 2013 19:51
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Try replacing the fluid in the transmission. It has a surprising effect on how the gearbox behaves, oem Subaru extra S is probably one of the most recommended fluids for the 5 mt.
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Oct 22, 2013 13:46
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Yakattak posted:I had the Andrewtech cocktail and drained it for Extra-S and downright hated the Extra-S, plus it started to grind going into fourth. Andrewtech is the way to go on the 5 speeds in my opinion. I've been a little cautious towards custom mixtures. I had been using Scotty's cocktail in my old transmission before the swap. Felt great for shifting but after a year or so had a few bearings fail that did a number on the internals. Was in a pinch and ended up having the box completely rebuilt and then sold it shortly after because I did the swap. Don't know if fluid was a factor in the failure, could have been coincidence. Shop mentioned fluid as a probable cause but I'm not sold on it. Decided against taking a chance and just ran extra s in the new one. In my transmission it feels really nice and not that much of a difference from when I had Scotty's cocktail in the old one. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 19:16
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BoyBlunder posted:What are these cocktails you guys are putting in your cars? Is that a real thing? Yeah, it's a thing. Stems from the fact that Subaru gearboxes aren't the nicest when it comes to rowing gears, these cocktails try to mix different trans fluids with varying levels of friction modifiers to get a smoother gearbox. Got these from a quick google search: Scotty's Cocktail: 1qt Redline lightweight shockproof 1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90 Andrewtech Cocktail: 3 quarts of Redline shockproof gear oil 1 quart of Motul Gear 300 Looking at the Scotty's Cocktail thread on NASIOC seams to show that people now don't recommend it anymore, as Yakattak mentioned. Unfortunately when I tried it there were very positive reviews so I thought it would be safe but it might have pooched my gearbox in retrospect. The Andrewtech cocktail seems to be a good one, at least from what I found from that quick search. Extra S seems to work really well with my current gearbox so I don't really have a reason to play around. To each their own, choose whatever works for you and gets good reviews.
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Oct 23, 2013 04:09
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dyne posted:It's about time to do the timing belt on my wife's '09 wrx (just ticked over 100k). I haven't done of these yet, any tips? Any specific kit recommended? I used the gates kit when rebuilding my '10 WRX engine, make sure you get the one that has 2 outlets on the waterpump if you're changing it aswell, although as an '09 I don't think it's old enough to require a new WP so soon. Add another recommendation to go through Jamal, he's awesome to deal with. It's a fairly simple procedure, I've got some documentation on how to do it if you want it. The only tricky part is the getting 2 of the cams to stay put when you're putting on the belt, get a friend to help if you don't want to spend the $texas for the factory cam holding tool, it's not too much of a pain to do it without the specialty tool. Definitely take out the radiator, it's much easier access without it on there, and might as well do a quick flush and put new coolant in there since the rads already out.
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Oct 23, 2013 07:19
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The bulbs that illuminate those indicators are smaller bulbs on a twist-in base, could have just dislodged itself. It's simple to get to, shouldn't take more that 5-10 mins to check so you can at least rule that out.
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Oct 26, 2013 15:01
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The Jabberwocky posted:If anyone's in the market for some Racecomp Tarmac 1s, I've got my set up on eBay right now for (relatively) cheap. Being poor really sucks. Awe, drat. Why can't I have some saved up Was hoping to pick up a set in the spring. Would jump on this but don't have the funds for any more upgrades at the moment.
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Oct 27, 2013 23:02
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Voltage posted:I finally had some time last night to finish up the motor on my 2.5TS, but I am having trouble lining up the cam gears and crank gear to put on the timing belt. Do I just turn the crank gear as hard as I can? Take the sparks out if they're still in. Otherwise yeah, you just need to turn that crank gear over until it lines up. With the cams loose all the valves are closed, and when the crank is lined up the pistons should all be half way up/down so you can spin the cam gears all the way around without worrying about any piston/valve interaction. Just make sure the crank is lined up first.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:33
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jamal posted:Turn it over a couple of times and make sure everything still lines up. If so it's probably right. For future reference this only refers to the timing marks on the gears, the ones on the belt only line up every who knows how many cycles, in this case there are no marks so there's no confusion.
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Oct 31, 2013 23:32
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I don't think there's any more security that you're missing. It could very well be that your battery is beyond saving and needs replacement or your jumper cables are too thin and can't pass the needed current for starting. Guessing you don't have a battery charger, if you want you could try starting the car with your battery unhooked with the jumpers directly on the hookups to see if it at least turns over. In my experience, hooking up the cables anywhere else other than directly at the terminals doesn't work very often, possibly because the cables can't make a good enough connection. The reason why you don't want to do battery to battery is that if there's a short in the dead one, or it's significantly smaller than the good battery, it'll produce hydrogen gas which can explode. If they're evenly matched then it's worth a shot. Just be careful. As for cheaper replacement, you might be ok with just whatever Walmart has for a quick fix, what kind of climate are you in? Need lots of cca for harsh winters? Then you might need to save up a little and splurge on a better battery. I'm pretty sure most new Subaru's are group 35 but any place that sells batteries will look it up for you anyway. Group 24f isn't much bigger physically but it seems like they pack some more cca for the same price compared to group 35 when I was shopping around for a battery recently.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:23
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It might have been some auxiliary system draining the battery (security system flashes a light, guessing sends power to some sensors, aftermarket radio might cause a drain if you have one), 2 months does seem like a really short time for it to go flat though, could be a weak battery if you took lots of short trips before it was parked. You guys don't really get crazy cold in Colorado so the cca rating isn't too important. It's handy to have a charger, but if it's gone flat shortly after it was parked then the battery is toast and charging it won't extend it's life much longer, if it'll hold a charge at all. If you can find one for cheap, even used off craigslist, it might be worth a shot to get some more life out of it, but it's a little bit of gamble. Keep in mind the cheap ones might burn out with a completely dead battery or will overcharge it if you don't watch it. I would try the post to post start and see if it works, if it starts then take it for a long drive and then take it to an autoparts store and get it tested, should let you know exactly how bad the battery got and if you can hold off getting a new one for a little while. Just keep in mind too that with a dying battery, it'll be really taxing on the alternator and could end up frying it after long term use with a crap battery. On the plus side they're really easy to swap in Subaru's
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Nov 6, 2013 04:13
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If it's flat right now then they won't tell you much, unless they can charge it too before they test it.
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Nov 6, 2013 14:03
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LordOfThePants posted:
You can always open up the map in AccessTuner and see if that code has been disabled. Weird that it's getting triggered all of a sudden though.
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Nov 7, 2013 03:37
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That thing must fly. I haven't been keeping up with the car, mind posting a quick summary of what else you have done to it and maybe a picture or two?
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Nov 10, 2013 23:12
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the milk machine posted:2005 WRX ... I wish my local market had these prices. Up here they're around 9k - 10k and most have suffered some form of molestation. If it's not loosing an appreciable amount of oil between changes and the axles aren't making noise and you're planning on full replacement axles anyway then I don't see why you couldn't just wait the winter out and do those things yourself in the spring/early summer when it gets nice enough to work on it, would save you some cash for sure. If you want to get some more excitement out of it, and spend the money you'd save by going the DIY route, it's fairly easy to do some basic mods and a AP tune and there's always some cheap used performance parts on NASIOC for just a little more oomph. Plus you've mentioned you like the car so might as well keep it and play around with it.
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Nov 12, 2013 00:58
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the milk machine posted:So if my oil level stays within range (the light on the dash is too late right? heh) and I'm not hearing anything weird from the axles/suspension I should be good to go? What should I be listening for, clunks, squeaks, etc? I'm still going to have my mechanic look at it and quote it, but if so, that's good to know. Yeah, check oil level every fill up (it's good practice to do so anyway but I haven't seem many other people do so, sometimes get weird looks at the gas station but w/e) and top up as necessary, and as for what you're listening for, it'll sound like clicking. Just found this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0pEp3yVS4o should give you an idea of what it would sound like when it starts going bad. Axles are pretty easy to change out on them too, should be able to find a guide online to follow without much issue. If your mechanic gives you an agreeable price then could just get him to do it for convenience. Modding is loads of fun, especially on a turbo subie, just have a goal in mind before starting and stick to it. Lots of people end up with a poorly running car (and an empty wallet) by not researching how mods work together or just randomly throwing parts at their cars. NASIOC is filled with info and idiots, but it's not too hard to navigate through. Most people here would probably be able to help with wading through the bullshit and help you with getting into playing with mods.
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Nov 12, 2013 06:22
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I can confirm they fit, I've got a set of Legacy snowflakes on the Baja that's running the 2010 WRX spindles and calipers. The calipers are the exact same tokico units as I had previously on the Baja which has the same brake setup as the Legacy.
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Nov 14, 2013 15:27
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Busy Bee posted:Picked up a 2001 Subaru Outback wagon today for $2500 with 113k miles. Was given a vehicle inspection report from a local Subaru dealership. The issues are as follows: Wheel bearings are easy in the front, they come out as one unit, 4 bolts hold it in, they're accessible from behind. There's guides online. Cv joint boot isn't too difficult, just a little messy. There are also guides online. If there isn't a lot of grease left or it's really contaminated it's probably a better idea to outright replace the axle. Rack and pinion boot is going to be a pain, but doable while you have everything else going. It's going to be a lot of undoing a bunch of bolts until have enough clearance. As for the other issues maybe some else can elaborate on them.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:32
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Huh, Edit: I wonder how much more it would be to get the entire housing vs just the bearing, might be cheaper to replace as a whole assembly (because you can do it on your own fairly easily) vs having a shop replacing the bearing alone (they're a pain in the rear end to do if you have to do them yourself, I ended up having to cut off the inner bearing race on my rear bearings since I couldn't find another way of getting it to separate from the hub) Bajaha fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 02:26
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The two are related, that wire goes on outside of the starter on one of the transmission bolts, take a look at the starter and see which side has a corrosion build up that looks like where that piece used to fit.
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Nov 25, 2013 01:46
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VelociBacon posted:I think it's crazy to buy a brand new car at all honestly. There are some good reasons though, for one, somebody has to do it, and financing incentives might make it a more attractive option than getting a loan through your bank to get a newer used car. Plus if you want a 100% guarantee that you're the only one to hoon about in your ride and have an exact history of your car and how it was driven and taken care of (you would be surprised at the extent of what can go unreported), you're stuck getting new. I do understand and usually advocate getting a used model, especially since it's taken its biggest depreciation hit, but there is some merit to getting a brand new car. And who can resist new car smell and peeling off the protective plastic films? Cat Terrist posted:you NEVER buy the first year of a new gen WRX. MY01 and MY08 can pretty much swear to that. I know about how the MY08 owners got screwed with a TD04 while MY09 got the VF52, but what was the issue with MY01? Quick google didn't turn out anything glaringly obvious.
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Dec 4, 2013 23:39
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Cat Terrist posted:6spd is the cable shift (EWWWW) Aren't most Honda's cable shift? I've driven quite a few and the shift feel was fine. I don't know about the 6 speed (drove an STI only a handful of times), but with the 5 speed I have, I've pretty much tried everything short of a short shifter trying to get a nicer shift feel and I still have some lateral slop in gears. It's fine to shift but nothing to write home about, certainly not as good as some mazda and honda gear boxes I've tried. Is Subaru's cable shift just poorly setup or am I missing something? Cat Terrist posted:Plus Subaru dont deserve money while they even think about CVT's into a WRX. I'm still in disbelief they thought that's in any way a good idea. I think this one is down to bean counters, from what I've seen the STI is 6spd only so there's that, gotta move those units and cvt is more appealing to the mouth breathing public.
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Dec 5, 2013 03:50
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Slow is Fast posted:TIC makes an updated linkage as well: I've already changed out the linkage, put in front and rear poly bushings, pivot bushing, Group N trans + motor mounts, only things I haven't done that are supposed to affect shift feel are solid pitch stop, trans crossmember bushings, and a short shift. Overall the shift feel is better than what it was stock, but not as good as I imagined from some of the reviews I've read. Maybe I'm just too picky  Would a short shift change anything? I'm looking for something with a slightly shorter throw but the same knob height, I like where it sits now. Only experience with a short shift was trying a friend of a friends ek civic that had one and it was awful, you could barely tell when it clicked into gear and you almost had to reach into the console to reach the shifter, but I'm hoping that experience was more from him being an idiot and probably buying some cheap eBay garbage rather than how it's supposed to feel.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:01
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Yeah, you can put it back together without specialized tools, haven't checked the service manual if the proper way does involve specialized tools, but I've helped a friend rebuild his 09 sedan that was hit in the front and it was no problem putting on a new bumper.
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Dec 7, 2013 03:02
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TheFargate posted:So im trying to figure out what i need to get the sat radio working in my 13 wrx premium. My HU has the sat button but it doesnt do anything. Google tells me that it should be "pre-wired" for an on dash antenna. Subaru sells a sat package for $400 and im wondering if i can just find an antenna online and just find the pre wired connection. Any help would be great. If they haven't changed anything for the 2013 from the 2010 model, it should have a module like this right above the radio:   If that's a part you'll need, I have it. This is the antenna I pulled from the 2010 as well, I think it might be needed for the satellite radio. If anyone has a picture of what the OEM sat radio antenna looks like I can rummage through my parts and try to find it.  If it's prewired for the satellite radio it should be as easy as putting these pieces in and it should work. PM or post if you need any of those parts. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 21:13
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 20:47 |
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TheFargate posted:After browsing NASIOC i do indeed believe those are the parts i need. I suppose the only way to find out 100% is to pull the HU when i have the chance. I am definitely interested in that stuff. well, once you know exactly what you need and you want to get it from me, PM me on here, or find my thread in the Baja subform on NASIOC and PM me there if you want.
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Dec 8, 2013 23:28
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