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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Schroeder91 posted:

What do you do when getting a new engine and one with different/unknown mileage? I was told to tell the DMV so they know it's not a stolen engine, anything else?

I don't know what state you're in, but if I tried to tell the DMV I was putting a new engine in my bike they'd probably look at me like I have three heads and ask why I'm telling them this.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Coydog posted:

Thanks for the info! I was hoping that you would answer, since you have a baller lighting setup on your drz. The problem is that I need this to work in conjunction with the high beam, and only when the high beam is activated. This means I'll be putting 20-40 watts extra load on the system than it normally uses.

Don't worry, my days of horrible wiring jobs are past. I am striving to make this the cleanest and most weatherproof install possible. I'll admit, I didn't expect this to be as complicated as it is, but I'm always eager to learn new things. I think I need a relay for this, but cannot figure out how to get the system to "sense" when the high beam is on. I don't want to use that switch, and I probably cannot piggyback on the high beam wiring.

You're describing exactly what a relay does. One wire going to it is for it to "sense" when the circuit is active (your high beam), the other wire comes directly from the battery to power your destination device, whenever the trigger is activated.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Here4DaGangBang posted:

AKA living the Street Triple life.

Bah this reminds me I need to replace my gear indicator sensor. Its been acting all fucky, it usually thinks first is second, and 3-5 tend to bounce around a bit. I cleaned it a few months ago and it helped for a bit, but its back again. I wouldn't mind too much but it messes with the mapping since it the ECU has different maps for each gear.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I always go for a phone specific mount as well, rather than the universal clamping ones. Much more secure.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP18U

Like that.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I'm partial to the model specific holders + whatever kind of RAM ball mount you want.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP18U

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Russian Bear posted:

Am I crazy or is my only option for an air filter replacement for my MT03 a K&N? Or is this some weird thing where only dealers can get this common wear part?

or am I terrible at google

https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/1wd-e4451-00-00/element-air-cleaner

e: cheaper: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/yamaha/yamaha-1wd-e4451-00-00-element-air-cleaner?sku_id=1487659

Found the part number here: https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5e1c6c8e87a866147046507f/intake

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

TotalLossBrain posted:

Does that mean these are torque to yield bolts?
That's about the only reason I can think of for throwing them out after a single use. If that's the case, I would replace them but maybe someone who knows what they are talking about can chime in instead of me.

Nah, pretty much every car manufacturer says the same thing about caliper bracket bolts. It's dumb.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Do you have an air hammer you can give it a couple braps with while under tension from the puller?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I recently discovered you can get replacement exhaust cans where one is fake, and it opens up for you to stash money/meth/circus peanuts in.

opengl fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Jun 6, 2022

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Remy Marathe posted:

So, uh, what's a paint-safe way to remove a tank pad you wasted $40 on by applying before fully acknowledging the long-term consequences? I should've just held onto it for after the tank gets scratched up, if that actually happens. It's time to wax the tank now and I hate the idea of neglecting that beautiful frost paint under the pad.

Dental floss/fishing line sounds like one part of the equation. I see people mention WD40 or goo-gone but I'm gun-shy about remover agetns as I just removed an "I Voted" sticker from my otherwise beautiful top box using a Mr. Clean magic eraser and it left the black plastic chalky.

Magic erasers are abrasive, basically really really fine foam sandpaper.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

FBS posted:

I would expect to see a bike like that listed on Facebook Marketplace for $200 less than MSRP.

No idea if they actually sell at those prices but that's what everything gets listed at.

Or $2000 over because they got taken for a ride on an extended warranty and are underwater on the loan at 29%.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Got any pics of what you're working with?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

How much clearance is there on the bolt head itself? I'd probably clamp the nut with needle nose vise grips and try to pull up under the bolt while unscrewing it to work through the bad threads.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Lungboy posted:

Bolt head is unhindered. Don't have any needle nosed grips, will see if I can borrow some

Even without gripping the nut I bet with enough upwards pressure while unbolting it’d come out. The trick would be to get something under the bolt head while also being able to unscrew it without mangling everything around it. Something like a flathead or prying tool.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The only thing that really helped me was to stop riding bikes with clipons to get the weight off my wrists.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Russian Bear posted:

Would anyone care to enlighten me about why t-bars are so popular on harleys (maybe less so on other cruisers)? I'm in harley land here and just about every listing has these as an upgrade. The shorter ones look sorta ok sometimes, but ridiculousness increases with length. I assume they are somewhat functional in shorter lengths as then you don't have to reach as far forward since the length brings the hand contact point back.

Lead-poisoned boomer brain.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Renaissance Robot posted:

So I've got a crashed 125 with tweaked forks; tried the thing where you loosen the lower triple clamps and the axle bolt and jump on the front to straighten the wheel out, but I can't seem to get it to work.

Is there something I'm missing or a different way of straightening the wheel out?

Did you loosen everything that binds the forks together? This is the video I followed and it got me back into perfect alignment after a drop had my forks off kilter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8

I also assume you've checked to make sure the fork legs are actually straight yeah?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I'm super happy with my Angel GTs, but yeah the consensus on best rain tire tends to be the Pilot Road.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Slavvy posted:

but you can achieve the same effect by having separate chambers in the cases with two oil circuits ala ktm

Is this why I had to change not only a cartridge oil filter, but also two separate screens on the 390 when I did the oil recently? Never seen that before.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Yeah MC batteries are so small that I find if you kill them a few times it's game over. I'm religious about putting mine on tenders even during riding season now.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Kind of overly complicated and fussy and not necessary for a bike. Just get a set of speed bleeders.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

RightClickSaveAs posted:

Ah something like these here and then a bag/container and hose of some type to hook to? Chart says front and rear calipers are same size so guessing I can get one and do them individually?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speed-bleeder-for-metric-bikes?sku_id=1215303



Yup. I just stick a clear hose into a jar or whatever's handy. And like was mentioned, you leave them installed, they replace your standard bleeders.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

knuthgrush posted:

What would go wrong with the engine not warming up? Just heavier wear or something more sinister?

It's also going to be hard on your battery, I'd try to keep it on a tender because rides that short may not recharge it enough to make up for what you used starting it.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Both of my bikes with TFT clusters do that. I understand it's pretty common and not an issue unless its seriously building up in there and doesn't clear up once you get some sun on it.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Assuming your bars aren't actually bent, your forks are probably out of alignment. This fixed me right up when it happened to me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Invalido posted:

My new-to-me 2020 sv650 is missing a rubber nubbin under the seat:



I can see this has been missing for a while, there's some paint that's rubbed off the frame which I guess the nubbin is supposed to protect. I put a few layers of electrical tape on the frame but I'd rather have all four nubbins if it's possible to get as a spare part for a not unreasonable sum. Does anyone know a parts number or the proper name of the nubbin? I don't have a workshop manual for this thing yet since it's not available as a pdf at the usual getting places in a decent searchable form, though I realise I'll probably have to pony up and buy the thing on paper eventually.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/09321-10012?ref=c3a2970004569fd4b6798c211bf6931465f66ae8

(#7 here: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2020/sv650/seat-sv650-sv650a)

But I'd probably just find something around the house or at a hardware store.

e: more reasonable shipping here if you don't want to pay $12 to ship a $2 part from partzilla: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275705591436

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

FBS posted:

The answer these days is almost always "emissions"

It's this. Power delivery at low speeds sucks. I added a FuelX Lite to mine which cleaned it up nicely.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I've never had a problem just holding the front brake with one hand, kneeling down and gently bringing the bike upright. But yeah it can be a bit of a balancing act.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

Anyone know if Partzilla ships partial orders?
Honda parts in stock or nearly in stock. Kawasaki backordered with no current date. I have both on the same order. Their chat service is non responsive 🙃

Edit: They don't. You need to contact customer service and remove the items not in stock. They responded eventually. Man...it is hard to find parts for a lot of things right now...

Revzilla will ship partial orders if you want to reorder through them.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Does this sound like brake pad contamination?

The previous owner of my FJR had a fork seal leak and a leaking banjo fitting. He had them fixed, all is dry now, but i can clearly see dried residue from both on the calipers.

The front brake is really weak. Almost dangerously so. The lever is nice and firm, so I don't suspect air (I'll be bleeding the system regardless), but there's just nowhere near the stopping power there should be.

Assuming that's the case, is trying to clean them a fool's errand?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Yeah after thinking on it I’m just ordering pads. It uses 8 of them up front and the cheapest (non no name) option is OEM for about $140 for all of them. This is primarily a 2-up bike for rides with my wife so I’m not chancing anything. Will tear it apart, scrub the rotors clean, swap the pads and clean up/lube the calipers followed by a few flushes including triggering the ABS via service mode.

I was originally also going throw braided lines at it too but between ABS and the linked brakes that’s a ton of lines I don’t feel like messing with unless I have to.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

opengl posted:

Does this sound like brake pad contamination?

The previous owner of my FJR had a fork seal leak and a leaking banjo fitting. He had them fixed, all is dry now, but i can clearly see dried residue from both on the calipers.

The front brake is really weak. Almost dangerously so. The lever is nice and firm, so I don't suspect air (I'll be bleeding the system regardless), but there's just nowhere near the stopping power there should be.

Assuming that's the case, is trying to clean them a fool's errand?

It was indeed the pads. One side was oily, the other side looked like they were slathered in grease. No way I'd trust trying to clean these.

Cleaned up the calipers, swapped the pads, scrubbed the rotors, flushed the lines- the brakes now drat near put me over the handlebars.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Slavvy posted:


The pulsation is because you have a hosed rotor, although it might just be seized rotor buttons which you can free up.

It was the buttons on my 919. Clamp each with a small nut/bolt and blast with brake cleaner while spinning with a drill/impact. On mine all sorts of crud came out and they all freed up, no more shudder under braking.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I still cross list to CL out of habit, but I haven't sold a single thing there in years. Everyone is on Marketplace now. Which is garbage tier, especially when it comes to filters for vehicles.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I've put Angel GTs on both the 919 and Zero and have nothing but good things to say about them.

I very much want to put a set of the A specs on the FJR but they are OOS everywhere in my size.

Still need to figure out what I'm putting on the 390 for track days next season, the M5s it came with are so-so on track and are gonna be spent soon anyway.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I just do GoPro on the handlebars. I put a hardwired USB port on the handlebars on my bikes and take the battery out of the GoPro (it would get really fucky if I left the battery in on longer rides while also plugged in)

Vibration is a non issue for GoPros, the image stabilization is all done in software.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Still smells like battery and/or charging system to me.

Get a digital multimeter because 12.0V with no load could easily be a spanked battery.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Anyone de-rusted a tank before? Is this beyond saving? https://imgur.com/a/bJ4jBbR

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

knuthgrush posted:

i didn't do any winterizing for my xr-150 or my ruckus because i didn't have a car and expected to ride these through the winter. in a turn of events, i was given a van (hell yeah) but i still intend to ride these bikes this winter. what should i do to keep them in a good state? should i let them idle occasionally or what? it'll be a couple weeks between rides i'm sure, especially when the snow comes.

also i acquired an "atv" trickle charger in a box of junk i found and it seems to be in working order. i'm gonna do some googling but the directions say i need to take the battery out of the bike to use it. that sounds like a big pain in the rear end. should i just keep two batteries laying around for each bike?

probably should've posted these in the newbies thread but i thought it might get more eyes here. thanks a ton!

Idling them will do more harm than good, don't start them unless you're going to actually ride them long enough to get the oil hot. Just keep em on a tender til then.

You do not need to remove the battery to hook up a tender.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Ulf posted:

Does the bike have an ABS ring? If so you can read the square wave it puts out and drive a speedo from it.

I could be wrong but I don't think there's much overlap between bikes with mechanical speedos and ABS.

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