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waptang posted:Similarly, a fuckload of bikes...
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Oct 10, 2008 12:21
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:44 |
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moved to Gear threads
Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Oct 23, 2008 |
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Oct 23, 2008 00:15
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OK, so I just dumped my bike half on myself and half on the curb trying to park. Broke the end off the brake lever, but I don't think I did any other damage (fell on right side obviously). Fuel is off and bike is parked on the kickstand. I did a quick electrical check and all the lights and whatnot are fine, but have done nothing else with it. Anything to look for before I start 'er up again? I couldn't see anything amiss after a quick check around with my flashlight, but I may not know what to look for.
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Oct 29, 2008 01:06
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Taisa posted:And if the throttle doesn't snap back and stays where you left it, you just installed cruise control for free!
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Oct 30, 2008 02:56
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mr.belowaverage posted:gently caress you guys. I use State Farm, I'm 30 with a clean record. $1000/year. Three zeroes. For a KZ1000, with only liability. I paid $800 for the drat bike. I called State Farm to get the same agent as the previous owner, got someone else who then promptly tried to sell me a combo that included life insurance that I didn't need or want. So I said "forget that" and went looking around. I got a great quote from Kingsway through a Southland Broker and went with them, plus they give discounts for having completed a safety course and being a member of the OMA. Of course, I'm taking about a 28 year old 400cc standard, so as always YMMV.
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Nov 8, 2008 16:23
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Z3n posted:Don't use ArmorAll on your seat. 
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Nov 21, 2008 00:56
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Insurers always look to reduce risk, so by adding people who already have a history of both driving and insurance, it helps their risk assessment.
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Nov 30, 2008 19:28
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Quick (tubeless) tire question: my rear has a definite leak around the valve stem, I checked it out with the old soap & water trick. Is there anything I can do to fix the leak temporarily enough to ride it home (~100km on <90km/h roads) that doesn't involve taking the whole wheel & tire off and replacing the valve stem, or is that simply the best thing to do? On a side note: I had been thinking about changing the tires out anyway for whatever reason even though there's plenty of tread left on both, and while troubleshooting this leak I finally looked up the DOT numbers to finally figure out the age of these things: almost 9 years! So I'm definitely looking to replace these soon as I can, but ideally not until I get it back to my place and out of my parents' garage
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Apr 15, 2009 00:16
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My 1980 Honda CB400T has smoky cold starts on the right cylinder. I never noticed it until my Dad pointed it out when I was down at their place last Fall before I garaged it for the Winter. It's still doing that now, having just gone for a ride and paid attention to when I started 'er up. I have to take it in for a carb sync/balance anyway since the right one's running a lot noisier than the left, what else should I be looking out for with this smoke? I assume it's burning oil a bit and that's what's causing the grey smoke on startup. Doesn't seem to smoke from warm starts, ie. having sat in a parking lot for 10 minutes.
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May 11, 2009 21:20
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Bungie the backpack to the seat.
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May 28, 2009 21:57
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Comedy CBR125 option. (They seem to be advertising the hell out of them here, and Honda doesn't have much in the low end of the spectrum other than the Rebel 250 these days)
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Jun 5, 2009 03:51
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Hooray, I have a question and a long story. Went out for a ride today, and after 20 minutes in stop & go traffic, I hit a faster road that I could get up to 70km/h on. This road leads to a hill that also had stop & go traffic on it (Bayview south of Moore for the T.O. goons). While on the hill, my bike started to act strangely: I would go to let out the clutch to creep up the hill, and the engine would bog down. So I'd give it some gas and the engine would race to catch up, and at that point I'd let the clutch out a bit to try to keep moving forward. Cue maybe 5 minutes of this as I try to creep up the hill without stalling out completely, and then once I was up the hill and back on level streets, I hit a red light. I had switched over to Reserve on the tank while still on the hill just in case, even though I was sure I had enough gas in the tank. I made it through the left-hand turn and over to the nearest gas station, where I immediately shut 'er down. I let the bike cool down for 10-15 minutes, at which point I checked the oil (now that the crankcase had cooled down) and found that, like 2 nights ago, the level was fine: right in the middle of the marks. I tried starting it up: no go. It would crank, so the battery was still OK, but no start. I tried a few more times, and managed to get it going once by giving it a handful of gas, but it wouldn't stay running. I let it cool down about 10 minutes longer, and figured I'd put a couple bucks' worth of gas in, just in case. Walked it to and from the pumps, and tried again: no start. On a whim I decided to pull the spark plug wires just to see if anything was amiss, and one of the wires came right out when I pulled a bit on the boot by accident! It looked rather corroded (green), so I screwed it back on and check the other; same story. So having done that, I went to start it again, and it came to life on the first go! It seemed to be idling OK, without any of the coughing from before, so I gave up on my travel plans and just went home. No drama on the way home either. Here are pics of the wires:   I had a similar thing happen when I was taking it to the shop back in May, after about an hour of city traffic. I am still a bit of a noobie, so my first idea is that being an air-cooled twin, it was just overheating in the traffic. I've done a few short rides in the city, as well as a few longer runs out to my parents' place (2.5 hours), and a 2 hour ride two nights ago on the main roads without any problem since that first time it gave me the problem. Should I replace the wires altogether, or strip out the corroded ends and re-attach? Is this indicative of another problem? Bike is a 1980 Honda CB400T, just over 21,000 km. EDIT: was the engine just leaning out because of the hill? The last (and only other) time it happened I was pretty much on even ground. Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jul 31, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 23:46
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obso posted:Replace them if you can without having to buy new coils. Otherwise cut as much of the corroded wire off that you can without making them too short. Oh, it still has the boots that fit over the plugs, I was just seeing what was underneath.
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Jul 31, 2009 06:32
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Mr. DNA posted:Does anybody know if it's legal to drive a motorcycle in Alaska with an Ontario M2 driver's license? I'm hoping to ride to Anchorage next summer but I'm not eligible for my full M until October 2010. If not I'll have to just stick to the North West Territories, but that would be a shame.
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Aug 29, 2009 05:51
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I was going to ask where I could find a POR15 tank repair kit in Toronto or Guelph, but looks like I found the answer myself online.
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Mar 8, 2010 21:21
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I was changing my oil, and managed to round off the fargin' bolt for the oil filter cover. What's the best way to get that sucker out? EDIT: answer was "take it to a shop." Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 21:43
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Z3n posted:There's a lot of options if your edit isn't serious.
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Apr 9, 2010 14:27
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This may be more at home in a/the carb thread(s) but here goes: Normally, Hondas of my vintage (1980) have an exhaust crossover (called the pre-chamber. #4 in this pic) under the engine casing between the headers and the mufflers proper, apparently to reduce noise, so coming out from the engine the path looks like this: =x= Some previous owner removed that, so the pipes go straight into the mufflers, like ==. How would that affect tuning when compared to a stock setup?
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May 5, 2010 01:20
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frozenphil posted:I'm trying to devise a system using a laser level and some brackets right now. Should be more accurate than the factory hash marks and bracket that moves when you tighten the axle nut.
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May 7, 2010 23:36
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niethan posted:What if you drill into it with a drill that's slightly smaller than the bolt?
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Jul 28, 2010 05:53
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So I ruined my nice long weekend by over-torquing the head cover bolt, as seen here: so obviously I need to order a replacement. Is extracting the remaining thread part from the head something that could be done with a bog-standard bolt removal kit, or should I take it to a shop? Obviously I'd rather do it myself, both for the cost savings and the hands-on learning, but if it's going to be too gnarly to do at home, I'll take it in.
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Oct 11, 2010 22:07
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Primo Itch posted:I've had really lovely experiences removing broken screws. It's a skill worth having, but you'll want to kill yourself the first few times you do it. Also, buy good tools, i've had screw removal kits breaking inside the screw i was trying to remove and THAT was a poo poo-fest i can't even start explaining...
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Oct 12, 2010 23:57
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Quickie question about mufflers & pipes: what can I use for gasket material to help seal the area where the clamps go on? There was some reddish gunk on there when I bought it, but I've taken the mufflers off a few times, so most of it just crumbled away. Bike in question is a 1980 Honda CB400T.
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Jun 8, 2011 03:29
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Uthor posted:The red stuff is probably RTV gasket sealant. Use sparingly as it gets everywhere and sticks good. Don't want any getting into your engine. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Had a rash of bikes recently at the shop, no pattern between them, which were all missing a special shim between the muffler and header. Who the hell knows how something like that gets lost. Just the other day one of the guys at the shop found this and it seemed to work real well, with some added scrap metal to take up the space.
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Jun 10, 2011 00:38
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  Came home from work Monday night, and noticed that the ol' bike was bumped up against the curb and the wheel not pointing straight ahead like I left it on Sunday when I put it away and put the cover on. Didn't really have time to investigate much more than seeing things were not where they were supposed to be. Had a closer look Tuesday night, and saw a foot and a bit of scraping on the road, lined up exactly where the legs of the centre stand are, so I immediately figured it was pushed back to the sidewalk at somepoint, but most likely was NOT overturned. I just moved it away from the curb and re-parked it. This morning I wasn't thinking and wanted to ride to work, so I got all ready and out the door, got it off the centre stand and looked down at the front wheel when I heard something rubbing. Then I noticed it wasn't exactly pointing dead ahead like it used to  I figure someone backed into it some point on Monday while I was at work. Do I need to replace the whole front end?
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Jun 18, 2011 01:13
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Dunno, Rev, I usually reserve percussive maintenance for the mountain bike.
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Jun 18, 2011 02:56
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Z3n posted:It's like loving Dante's Inferno up in there. Get down too deep and you start finding Roberston.  Those are for attaching the shelves. Or mounting the bike to the wall.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:06
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bladesamurai posted:A co-worker is selling a 1981 Honda CM400T with 7,000 miles for around 400 dollars, with lots of spares including an extra exhaust, fender, signals, and other miscellaneous stuff. The is in running condition as far as I know but I don't know when that was. I haven't really found information on the bikes online. It looks like they have a stance in between a cruiser and a standard bike, pretty relaxed riding position. I'm assuming the twin engine has decent power to get out of it's own way. Would this be a decent bike as a learner for friends? How highway capable is it?
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Aug 16, 2011 02:38
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Geirskogul posted:My friend just picked up a '78 Honda CB400TII ("Hawk II"), and while most of the bike is actually in pretty good nick (aside from a split carb bowl overflow tube causing a gas leak in one of the carbs - fixed quite easily), except that we think it's missing the air filter element. Under the seat and air filter cover, there's a top, open wire cage, some air space, and then a honeycomb wire cage packed with wire mesh. The bottom mesh is pretty thin, but we don't know if it's the actual filter. Is there another filter element (paper, foam, etc?) that goes between the two wire plates? If so, where can I find such a thing, because bike bandit has no info about such a thing. If it's anything like my 1980, it'll be a foam filter that you impregnate with gear oil.
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Sep 27, 2011 12:57
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On the highway out to see my folks yesterday, and had a few sessions of head shake starting up around 120km/h. I backed off the throttle a bit as well as moved my legs from the rear legs to the main ones & adjusted my grip on the bars. Seems to have worked to calm it down, but I'm wondering at the cause. Did a quick Google about it last night, and it seems any number of things can cause it, from tire condition or alignment to road surface to head bearings. I'll keep an eye on it on the way home tomorrow after I check the tire and front alignment.
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Oct 9, 2011 15:56
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the walkin dude posted:the Ninja does have a small valve head leak. I've kept my eye on the oil level and it hasn't gone downward since. :O Sweet would be coolant, no?
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Nov 16, 2011 03:27
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Ziploc, where in Ontario are you? You could always try Zdeno down in Kitchener for salvage parts.
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Dec 1, 2011 14:02
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I've seen a couple of the bigger bikes with hazards, though you generally don't use them when moving.
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Dec 11, 2011 01:46
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AhhYes posted:I walked outside to find my bike on its side today. The black mark on the cover at the front tire shows where the car hit it. Holy poo poo, are you me?
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Dec 20, 2011 14:13
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I need to replace the spark leads on my '80 CB400T. Are these the kinds of things that are easy to get ahold of? They're pretty corroded.
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May 15, 2012 22:59
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I just discovered something interesting as I was getting the Frame, VIN and engine serial numbers. My '80 CB400T is supposed to have Keihin VB22B carbs, but the numbers stamped into the ones on my biek are VB22C, which means that they're not the proper match. Know your bike!  If the shop that did service on my carbs a few years back went by the Honda service manual, then the primary and secondary jets would be totally wrong for the carbs that are installed. So, my question is what sort of difference do jet sized represent? My assumption (I know, I know) is that they've put in VB22B jets (Primary 70/Secondary 110) into a VB22C carb (72/118). Would those number be stamped on the jets anywhere? Or it could be something else I don't get a lot of garage time since I primarily work at my parents' place, nowhere here to work on it.
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May 19, 2012 16:59
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Sagebrush posted:It's the diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, right? 70 = 0.7mm, 118 = 1.18mm? I think I read that somewhere. I also found out that the catalog # for replacement brake levers doesn't match what's actually on my bike, so I wonder WTF else the PPO did to this poor Honda.
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May 20, 2012 04:45
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Synonamess Botch posted:Probably. I have a little tackle box full of jets and there are a handful of them that don't have the size stamped on them. It's annoying because I have to guess what size they are. But probably 99% of them in my experience have the size stamped on them. Only way to know is to check!
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May 26, 2012 20:28
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I replaced the cylinder head gasket on my CB400T back in April. Last weekend My dad suggested that I check the torque on the bolts since I had the valve cover off anyway to clean up that gasket. When I checked the bolts, number 2 on the rotation (bottom right bolt when looking from above) just spun in the hole. I took it out and saw a ring of aluminum around the bottom. Obviously when I went to put it back in, it just spun in the hole, I assume the threads in the head are stripped. Any way to fix that? I also am assuming its whats causing my latest oil leaking adventures.
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Jun 22, 2012 13:15
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:44 |
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aventari posted:You can fix it, you'll need to pull the head and get access to the hole. Then the best way to repair it is a "Timesert" kit. http://www.timesert.com/
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Jun 22, 2012 23:20
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