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Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I assume this has been asked before, but could any problems arise from swapping an old 93 600v transalp over to fully synthetic oil in a oil change? No clue what the PO used, other that it's old and dark as hell.

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Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I attempted to change the spark plugs on my 93 xl600v transalp yesterday. Attempted as it turned out the drat 18mm spark plug socket I bought isn't slim/short enough to fit onto the front left or the rear right spark plug as they're so far down a little off center hole both places. The front one has the pleasure of being right behind the left radiator too.

When looking for other stores that has 18mm spark plug sockets I came across this:


Apparently a 320mm long spark plug fastener

My question is, has any one here used them and do they work? From what I gather you just push them on to the spark plug and the grip from the rubber vs the ceramic stem is enough for it to screw them in/out.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
The original tool kit is long since gone sadly.The rubber thing was just to positon plugs so it was useless.

Looks like I need to find some place that stocks that oem plug socket, its really long and thin from what images I find of it.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

Nidhg00670000 posted:

I'm can't visualise your problem completely, but Biltema is usually the answer. Would this one work?

It would have worked if it was 18mm. I found another 18mm socket which was a little bit slimmer in the top end near the bit socket. The new one managed to reach the plugs and loosen them a little, but didnt fit out of the holes in the engine with the plugs all the way out.. I had to screw them in a little then use the first 18mm socket to get em unscrewed the rest of the way out since it was a little bit different shaped and magnetic. Then I had to jiggle the socket out leaving the unscrewed plug inside and fish the loosened plug out with a magnetic screwdrier and a needle plier. On the front left plug I also had to loosen the left radiator and move that aside to be able to see down the hole. Yes, it was that thight and fiddly.

If I ever have to do that again I'll get that drat oem socket. The rubber thingy worked nicely for getting the new plugs in and finger thight.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Can you safely use a ptfe based lube inside a high/low beam switch? The switch on my transalp sticks a little, making it a multiple push operation to turn the high beam off.

Either the spring in there has gotten too weak or to much grime has gotten in the slide areas.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Aug 26, 2013

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Thanks, looks like it's time to expand my ever growing collection of spray cans.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

NitroSpazzz posted:

For contact/electrical cleaner spray I highly recommend Chemtronics Electro-Wash (http://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-Electro-Wash-Cleaner-Degreaser-12-5/dp/B000B603RS), it's a little more expensive but one of the few I've found that doesn't leave any oily residue. We go through a ton of it at work.

Hm, interesting. I used a generic store brand contact cleaner and silicon lube spray and it did the trick. I'll look into getting a hold of that one if the stickyness returns.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
First winter storage ever questions:

I'll be storing it in a heated garage in an VCL storage bag.

I'm gonna change the oil and oil filter, fill up the tank, and use a fuel stabilizer.
Then I'm gonna run it and turn the fuel switch to off, and let it run to it dies.
I'm not sure if the carbs on my 93 transalp 600v has a drain plug, but I think it has.
Battery will be removed and I'll have it on a battery tender some times during the winter.
Cower metal parts(not brake disks) with a light oil film and remove that in the spring.
Clean the bike and dry it properly.
Overfill the tires a little.

What I'm unsure about :
Removing the spark plugs to drop in a little oil. Is this really needed? The bike will be stored for a while though, riding season wont start until around early April. And 2 of the 4 spark plugs are real pain in the rear end to get to on the 600cc transalp.
Getting the bike up on a block under the motor/off the wheels? Is this really needed?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Thanks for all the replys.

I'm planning on using the vcl bag because its a communal but closed garage with cars going in and out all winter bringing in some moisture in the form of snow/slush/whatever.

The garage itself won't go below freezing, but there is no chance of any warm stretches enabling riding. When snow and ice come in here in Oslo Norway, the road works salt the poo poo out the main roads and the inner city roads will have ice patches until late march at least. I'll want to top up the battery before spring anyway so I'll just keep that at home.

I wont bother with anything for the wheels then. You roll the bike into the bag so the tires wont have direct contact with the floor.

Edit: same with the oil on metal parts and into the spark plug holes, that seemed kinda overkill.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Sep 26, 2013

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I used that heat gun trick on the old rear end givi top box I got with my transalp. Works really well, but getting the colour even without sharp heat-fade lines takes a little practice.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

echomadman posted:

you probably have aftermarket indicators, with LEDs or smaller bulbs, the fix was probably a cheap flasher relay timed to suit the lower wattage, which subsequently failed by sticking on and burning itself out.
You should have a warranty on it, go back to them about it.

This reminded me, I've been thinking of maybe replacing the stock 21w bulbs on my 93 transalp with some more powerful led based bulbs as the indicators are abit dull compared to newer type indicators. The front indicators are square blocks integrated in the front fairings so replacing the whole holder with a pure led setup seems like a bit more effort.

My question is: Do drop-in led bulbs work okay? dealextreme seem to have a million different kinds of them.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
It you have to park it outside, park it in a visible area, don't hide it away. If possible either cable lock it to something, or park it somewhere 3-4 people can't just pick it up and shove it into a van.

For general idiot prevention a rain/dust cover really helps versus kids who want to fiddle with it or drunks hopping on it.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I managed to use Google Maps for like a month before they rolled out that update that broke all the good routing functionality in the mobile apps.

I then got me a TomTom Rider(v5 /2013 edition) and it's been good. That "Winding Roads" auto routing gimmick is actually kinda okay. With using Tyre free to plot routes you can easily make good routes that mostly will route the same way on the tomtom gps as in tyre.

Though I use it only for road based travel, not sure how that gps handles unmapped trail routes.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Have anyone here used dirt skins neoprene fork gaiters? I need to replace my old accordion ones on the transalp as they've gotten cracked.



I've ordered the 2 pieces pr shock variant and I'm thinking on how to best use them.


I'm leaning for setup nr 1, but I've never used this kinda boots before so I'm unsure.

What works best?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Kappa uses the same mounting system as givi but are generally cheaper. I got a kappa top box mount plate and givi side racks but use all givi boxes.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Get new original ones from a dealership, who has an account on http://www.kawasakikeys.com/ ?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I just got my first bike last year and have done most of the maintenance myself. I got a shop to do the valve clearance and carb sync as that felt a bit over my head. The rest I've done myself. I'll never change my own tires again though, that was a bit too much effort vs shop cost without a proper rim holder thingy(and a balancing machine). Haynes manuals rocks, but any time estimates goes right out the window when you got properly rusted rear brake bolts ignored for 10 years by previous owners. Had to wait for replacement bolt by mail + use a dremel to cut the old one.

What I'm trying to say is, don't be a new mechanic and expect to use the bike as primary transport. At least on an old not 100% maintained bike, as things easily escalates. If it's no hassle that it's out of commission for a day or two it's no worries.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I just saw a listing of a used KLR here in Norway, imported from the US in '97. Thinking about the practicality of having a bike that has no local spare parts I got to thinking about your wonderful measuring system.

Do motorbikes in the US come in metric or in imperial size nuts and bolts? Would I need silly 9/32 etc size spanners to work on it?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Haha, sorry about opening the :can:

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
How is the 85-86 Kawasaki ZL900 eliminators compared to it's type of bike?



The reason I ask is that I see them pop up from time to time on the Norwegian bike market for pretty much dirt cheap. They're also really close to being 30 years old which means veteran status with real low insurance and year tax is right around the corner.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
How silly does a motorcycle look with front and back wheel in different rim colours? I need to replace both of my transalp rims thanks to the dreaded transalp wheel rot. But I can only source new gold fronts and new silver backs.

I'll keep the old wheels and someday rebuild them(or more likely sell the hubs/rotted wheel).

I can't find a single wheelmaker locally and missing out weeks of the short season we got here in Norway with sending them far away is out of the question. I'll rather buy new wheels, and get new tires on them ready to drop in when the tires on the rim rotted wheels need to be replaced.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Personally I don't care, I was thinking more of future resale value, but I'll just add "unique look" on the for sale add :)

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
How often do you guys change fork oil? It's one of the few things I've not done on my transalp since I've felt no need to do it. From what I can find in the service manual and haynes it's an unscheduled maintainance item. The fork seals are perfect with no leaks. It is a really simple operation on the early transalps though, since it has drainage bolts on the forks.

Edit: I also have no records from POs on when it was last done.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Jun 17, 2014

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
How uneven in weight is a used brake disc?

I'm setting up my new wheels and got the tires on and balanced them but haven't moved over the brake discs yet..

I'll guess I'll just get me some more weights, check em with discs on and see if I have to re do the balancing before I finally mount them.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

Ziploc posted:

My motorcycle looks like it could use some brake pads soonish. I've never done brakes on a bike before. Done them tons of time on a car.

How do I go about choosing a set? There's a chance I'll take the bike to a track day or two in the future. But it's primary use is as an urban runaround. It's a 600cc naked Bandit.

Should I bother replacing the discs? It's only got 27k miles. And I think the discs are original. I don't believe the pads are.

I can't wait to do the job. This looks stupid easy when comparing to car brakes.

Brake pads are pretty drat easy, only thing you can run into is idiotic flathead screws and bolts that are worn with such a groove into them that you can't easily extract them or they are rusted in place. If your bike is newish brake pads are no big hassle. Discs can last a long time, just check that their width is above the minimum service width and look pretty uniform(you would have noticed that when braking if it's too uneven/warped.) Use a digital caliper or similar tool and measure multiple placed around the disc a little bit in from the edge. Minimum service width is either printed on the disc itself or check your manual /haynes/clymer.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
What is the preferred method to removing old brittle in some places, glued on like with super glue in other places gaskets? I had a hell of a time this weekend removing the old gasket from the engine left side panel on my transalp. With the motor in place I had to resort to wetting the old gasket with penetrating oil and shaving it off with short 4 cm package knife blade in some really tight spots. It there some kinda wonder product you can apply to old gaskets to make them dissolve or similar?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I've used gold face shields. What they do is similar to gold sun glasses, they dampen the light and give it a blueish tone. Compared to a regular tinted shield they are better with lower light, but it still lowers the light.
How could a tint let more light through than a clear blank visor? Pure bullshit.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
My bothers duke 690 likes to eat batteries, as in shake so much that it wears deep groves into the plastic on the battery. He'll pad his next battery he'll get in the spring some on the wear spots to hopefully prevent it.

It also eats the tomtom rider gps+holder. Even the pretty small play in between the a new gps and holder wears away on the both parts due to the vibrations.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

AlexanderCA posted:

I'm thinking of getting my motorcycle license this summer, after I get my car license done.

I've been looking at this forum occasionally this winter and looking online what kind of motorcycle I'd like and came to the conclusion that I would like something akin to the klr650 jack of all trades, master of none.

Those don't really seem to be around much here online in holland even second hand due to emission restrictions.

I found a forum post saying that we don't have them here because we have bunch of other models available.

But what would the euro alternative be? hard to see the forester the trees.
Specifically:

-Cheap (second hand).
-Highway capable.
-Unpaved roads (fire roads? Not sure of the terminology) capable
-Uncomplicated
-Beginner friendly

For reference I'm 27 years old, 186cm (6'1) and 77kg (170 pounds) and want to learn to do as much of my own maintenance as possible, in which I have no experience.

Get a transalp 600, they are very good mixed gravel and highway bike. Uncomplicated v-twin with good low rpm grunt and a low first gear so windy low speed gravel roads is no issue. It's only 48 lazy horses so it can't surprise you that much. There is really no mechanical things you have to replace or it dies stuff. Oil and valves are a 12k km maintenance interval. I got mine as my first bike at 80k km on the clock and other than the stator and regulator dieing at 97k(200 euro in parts) it's been pretty troublefree at 102k km.

Get a cared for one with ok milage and known service history to save you some hassle from doing all the scheduled maintenance at once. Choose tires that are knobbier/ more road oriented after what you want to focus on. Even with road tires gravel is easy because of the long suspension and front rake. Mind you, it's 200kg wet so it is not the lightest bike to toss around, but it has good fairings for highway riding. They are available in various fabulous 90s colours :)

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
If you haven't found them already there are some good resources on the web about them:

http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/ http://transalp.org/ and http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/index.html between those and the Haynes manual plus user manual(both are avaliable online if you look) you should find what info you need.

Advrider got some threads too ofc.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I'm buying a Sena s20 set today as we finally got fed up with the insane flakiness of the scala rider g9. Baking in the sun trying to get the intercom to magically connect(which on a good day takes 2 min after you push the button with no indication that it actually does something) having it blast BUSY BUSY BUSY BUSY on repeat at max volume the instant you turn a unit on was the last straw.

My question is for those of you that use in ear headphones with your intercom, what do you do with the cables? do you use shortened ones, stuff the cables behind the helmet liner or loop it down into your jacket?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

revmoo posted:

^^ I'd say no, if you're sure you wiped it down thoroughly I'd snug the bolts a bit by hand in the area they're leaking. Take it for a spin and if it's still leaking, replace the gasket and clean the mating surfaces.

Anyone have a good Android GPS tracking program? I've been using greenalp but even the paid version is crap. I want something that has a realtime web viewing interface, long-term track storage going back for all time, and speed logging. Bonus points if other users of the app can track each other via their phones.

I use Sportstracklive, it has all those features. To quote myself from another thread:

Supradog posted:

It really depends on what you want to use the app for. Endomondo is pretty great I hear but that and most training apps with more features has gone monthly sub.

Personally I use a lesser known app called Sportstracklive that I really like, but it looks like it's only for android.

I wanted a tracker app for HR, gps and both travel logging or training logging.
You can define new categories and that category don't interfere with others categories stats.
I use it to log motorcycle rides or I made a category specifically for mushroom hunting so I could track where I actually found mushrooms.

Here is a track i did this weekend with some leisurely paced cross country skiing(click for big):



I really like the live tracking bit for motorcycle rides, I've got family set up as friend in the app so they'll get a mail with a live tracker link so they don't have to be worried that anything happened If i'm out riding or are late.

You only need the free app/account to see other live tracks. you can either see them in app or on a webpage. Paid sub with all features is 2.50 USD a month though paypal.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I changed my chain two days ago and noticed that my front sprocket looked a little worn.

I didn't want to ruin my new chain fast so I replaced it. The rear sprocket got even teeth still.



My question is, did I need to replace the front sprocket? How worn is a 'worn' sprocket when tossing a new chain on? ( it had multiple stiff links + clip masterlink).

That sprocket is after 15k km ~ 9300 miles.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Ortlieb saddle bags and a Rack pack of what size you feel is right


Both are though and waterproof. There is no smaller outside pockets though, but the saddle bags are designed to be opened when on the bike with 3 quick buckles.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Is there any good freeish/ cheap video editing software avaliable?

I got a new Garmin Virb XE camera but other than having the g-metrix support for adding misc displays the software itself is pretty poor. it can't do anything with the video file itself, only crop lengths, no colour correcting or anything.

Makes the video colour very flat by default on youtube. I'm also missing a g force smoothing option.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6pm1Rr7EUg

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

goddamnedtwisto posted:

Lightworks is pretty good, but the free edition is 720p only and has a weird bug that means it desyncs the sound from my helmet camera.

Steam periodically does sales on Sony Movie Studio, I picked it up for £25 a while back and it's about as full featured as an idiot like me will ever need.

Nice, thanks! I'll keep an eye out on steam then while I test out the lightworks free version.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
After messing about with lightworks free and the free gopro studio I found the easiest is just to colour correct the clips I need with the gopro software then overlay graphs in virb.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
You also might wanna check the flowchart all the way through even if you find a fault at the R/R. Sometimes a messy stator can break the R/R, and if you don't catch both errors you end up having to wait for 2 separate part delivers. That is not fun in the middle of the riding season. I managed to fall into that trap that last summer. The last test on the last page was the give away for my stator error.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

Ola posted:

My rusty stanchions have predictably eaten my fork seals and changing my fork seals is kind of hard due to many sad facts about the condition of the rest of the forks. Short version, I've ordered some new forks off eBay and thought I'd get some fork gaiters to extend the life of the next ones.

Question 1, will I get teased if I wear these to school?



Question 2, anyone know anything about neoprene gaiters? They might look better than rubber and protect equally well from rocks, but I'd think they absorb water like a wet suit which can lead to rust just the same. Are they any good?

Q2:

Supradog posted:

04 march 2014
Replaced the fork gaiters, adjusted the headlight aim height, drained the crankcase breather hose.



Now to look for some metal clamps tomorrow to replace the plastic strips I had to use on the bottom, as the stock accordion ones only had metal clamps on top.

I've been running them for 2 seasons now and they've been very good. No rust or pitting and the inside is always dry then I check there. Edit: here they are.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Sep 18, 2015

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Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

Ola posted:

Thanks guys. I wonder if I can by with just a sheet of neoprene (as sold for divers etc) and some zip ties.There's no special coating or layer on it, right?

That way I can cut to exact dimensions. Also thinking about vinyl wrapping my tank and other mods, might be a project thread in this.

No special coating or layers as I can see. Looks like plain neoprene with velcro.

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