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A MIRACLE posted:I’m really struggling to come up with a do it all bike that competes with my vfr (that I got new for $8000). It has every feature I think I would need: traction control, anti-lock brakes, heated hand grips, self-canceling turn signals, the aforementioned center stand, luggage, fully adjustable suspension, VTEC Well if you come up with one I'd take a VFR as my second bike
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2022 02:03 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 23:32 |
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Okay so my front brakes are hosed. Felt some sort of odd rolling resistance before setting off the other day and after checking tonight I'm glad I didn't put it off further. 05 FZ6 The one pair of pads from the right caliper barely even look worn, where the left caliper pads are not only uneven between the pad pair, but front to back is very uneven as well. What do? Is this caliper rebuild or replacement time?
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2022 00:01 |
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Slavvy posted:Iirc the fz6 has sliding calipers, that type of asymmetry is usually stuck slider pins that you can fix without having to violate the hydraulic system. The pins seemed to move/slide just fine after loosening them up, would you recommend new pads and just a new grease of the pins? The rubber boots seem intact as well.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2022 00:48 |
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Slavvy posted:I would wire wheel crap off the pins and try to get the crap out of the holes they go into using both chemical and mechanical means, then grease them and see how they work. The pins came out clean with nothing more than a bit of extra grease accumulated at the tips, so that's making me think a piston or two might be at fault. I'll pull the calipers back off tomorrow and see if there's any visual wear to however much of the pistons are exposed.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2022 00:58 |
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Slavvy posted:Take your MC cap off and try pushing the pistons back in using one of the old pads and a g clamp or similar, if one is stuck you'll know about it pretty quick. You usually can't see anything wrong visually from the outside. Seems so obvious to try but I was just completely blanking out on thinking how to narrow down what could possibly be the cause. Thank you
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2022 02:28 |
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Bad brake update: I can push all four pistons back in with just my thumb, so it doesn't seem any are stuck. Both calipers slide well (without new pads yet) with the pins back in. Not really sure what the deal is now, I think at this point I'm just gonna pop some pads on, clean and grease the pins, change the fluid, and see how they feel from there.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2022 22:02 |
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Slavvy posted:Not much else you can do, it's weird to find nothing wrong after seeing that kind of wear. I'm picking up an outside micrometer or whatever they're called this weekend to measure the disc thickness as the one pad was grinding down to the backing plate. Bike has 20k miles so I guess there's an outside chance of one or both the rotors being too thin; why are bike brakes so dumb expensive? Is a set like this fine? I'm seeing rotors from EBC and whatever the wave rotor company name is (Gaffer or something?) and I'm just shocked that those rotors are $200+ each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2952035249...emis&media=COPY
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2022 03:18 |
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More brake chat. As I left unsure as to the cause, I've decided to rebuild both calipers. So I ordered two rebuild kits, EBC rotors , EBC sintered pads , and plenty of fluid to keep hydrated.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2022 13:13 |
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what an ordeal So obviously something would go awry, and that would be one of the bolts holding the one rotor stripping beyond all hope. Grabbed an angle grinder with some cut off disks, and in the event that wouldn't work, got an extractor kit as well. Notched the head of the bolt, blasted it with a dab torch to lessen the influence from the threadlocker, and after a couple whacks with a new impact hammer it broke loose. Now I just need the replacement bolts to arrive, and I can finally piece everything back together and be really really annoyed that essentially my brake lines are now all air from not having a sealed solution for the banjo bolts and it's gonna take a while to bleed it out.
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# ¿ Oct 1, 2022 04:48 |
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Having just popped on new EBC rotors and EBC HH sintered pads myself after the caliper rebuilds, I'm glad to say I do not have any such similar noise. Did you grease up the back of the pads and any other spot where it makes contact with the pistons or spring clips?
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2022 01:02 |
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More brake chat: after new rotors, sintered pads, and caliper rebuilds, I think I might bleed again. Lever seems to have softened up, or maybe sintered pads don't bite well when it's 40F? Since the brake overhaul I expected a better or more aggressive feel which wasn't there, and on the two rides this week in the cold it seemed a bit worse than it has been.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2022 04:45 |
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Slavvy posted:Did you bed the brakes in? On the first ride after replacement I did a number of quick braking runs from like 80-30 to get them up to temp
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2022 03:34 |
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I broke my turn signals somehow. Was going to replace the rear taillight with an LED array, and now my turn signals, front or rear, won't come on. I don't even particularly want the turn signals coming out of the rear brake housing, as I'm fine with the stock dorky signals. But I don't know what I did exactly to cause them to stop working. I'll upload photos when I'm back in the house Lols, after I was done being an idiot i was oh yeah things have fuses, let's check those and the one popped metallicaeg fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jul 4, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 4, 2023 16:47 |
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Stock mirrors here and they were large enough to fit stick on convex mirrors, which I slap on every vehicle I've had
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2023 03:09 |
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Russian Bear posted:The new contour (quantic in EU) from Arai seems to also be both snell and ece 22.06. I wonder what, if any, differences there are between them. The US Contour does not have an ECE sticker and the EU Quantic does not have a Snell sticker.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2023 15:42 |
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I have three kinks in my chain now, and I'm pushing 25k miles on what I'm sure is the nearly 20-year old factory chain and sprockets. I figure it's time for a new chain and sprockets, though I'm not seeing any real serious wear on the rear one. If the OEM parts (both sprockets, front sprocket lock washer, chain) are all available from Partszilla, is there any point at looking at aftermarket options? e: well after comparing prices, I think I'm gonna do the OEM sprockets and switch to an X-ring chain, $25 cheaper than the OEM O-chain metallicaeg fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Oct 2, 2023 |
# ¿ Oct 2, 2023 01:48 |
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Toe Rag posted:Is there a way to put my rear wheel back on without having to redo the chain tension/alignment? It's a Honda CB300R, if that matters. The rear axle looks like this: After the axle is out, you can't push the wheel forward to get the chain off then slide the wheel out from under without moving the tension nuts?
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2023 03:12 |
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Jonny 290 posted:More chaintalk. Having trouble triple-confirming stock chain for my '02 FZ1. I'm seeing 'conversion kits' to bring it to 520 size, so am I to assume it's 530 stock? (not getting the kit, want to keep it as stock as possible). I just went through the same nonsense on my FZ6 of that era. What's on your stock chain? If it's a 50v4, that's the same as 530, or at least that's what I've learned. For link count, I found mine by looking up the part on Partzilla for the OEM. I went with JT sprockets front and rear; they were like the only shop out there that had the 530 as everyone else was doing drilled and aluminum 520 parts.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2023 13:47 |
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Should I replace my Road 5s with something sportier (I take turns at +20mph and never scrape pegs)
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 20:45 |
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Okay, brake questions: One of the 'anti-rattle' spring clips snapped and is no longer usable. Do these things really need replaced? Bike is 20 years old and has 25k miles; is it worth replacing those clips that the pads slide on? Brake lever still feels spongey. Last year I rebuilt the calipers (twin piston sliders) since I must have had one sticking as I had wildly uneven pad wear. Pad wear is normal now. In August I replaced the rubber hoses with steel lines and added speed bleeders. If I bleed again to see if there are any bubbles, is it fine to use what was left of the fluid from August?
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2023 02:31 |
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I'm doubtful that there is air in the system; after the new lines were put in while it took forever to get the fluid to finally get through, with the speed bleeders it was really quick to stop seeing bubbles after the MC got back to normal pressure. But if I see any significant air I'll check out a rebuild. I'm sure it's probably just the age of the bike and being old sliding axial mount calipers bolted to a bracket that's then also bolted to the fork. They do slow me down well enough, but I just wish I didn't have to squeeze quite as hard and that they had more initial bite, even with EBC rotors and HH pads after the OEM stuff was ruined with the wildly uneven wear and one of the four pads going to the backing plate and scorching the one rotor. Or just my expectations are higher after riding a Striple and a z900 RS within the past year
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2023 04:03 |
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Scam Likely posted:Lately it's been raining a lot and it's making me freak out every time I park after a long commute. The rain combined with the road grime that gets kicked up all over my engine results in burning smells (Subtle oil/plastic scents) carried in the billowing steam that really seems like a bike fire is about to start. Husqvarna 401's are known to run stupid hot during normal operation, but I'm worried my bike is beyond normal. Does anyone else experience this when riding a lot in the winter? I smelled the same thing out riding in today's misty fog. I had no idea what the hell was going on, made even more confusing by the fact that with how hosed up my sinuses are, I have a hard time really smelling much all that well unless I'm wearing a helmet. I guess it applies enough pressure in the right spots as my nose fully opens up and I can actually smell like how I imagine normal people do. It faintly smelled like burning oil which it doesn't do.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2024 04:59 |
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1.1bar is the OEM: https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/17730-08J00 I can't speak to the pressure difference in what's available to you locally/quickly, but I'm not one to be picky about OEM for something like a radiator cap.
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2024 15:44 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 23:32 |
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Sagebrush posted:Make sure to take apart all your carburetors at the same time so you can clean them together for maximum efficiency. I did this and only had 3 screws leftover Glimpse posted:Yuasa batteries are pretty dependable, other batteries I’ve tried have had shorter lifespans, but at the end of the day a battery is a battery. The Yuasa I bought online came where you had to dump the water in, but it was a non-issue. Plop the water bottle thing on top, wait for it to drain, snap the caps on after and you're done.
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2024 15:14 |