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Have a look at the wiring from the fuel level sender on the bottom of the tank. it may be that one has broken
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Nov 17, 2011 22:56
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Sir Cornelius posted:Could be. I'd find it rare if the power-on self check works though. Definitely check your connectors and wires like the big guys say, mate. the power on self test is just a bulb test. it comes on even if the sender is disconnected as far as i recall from leaving it disconnected one time
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Nov 19, 2011 22:14
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invision posted:Anyone know anything about an R6 front end swap? http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php?p=2420778&postcount=9 best info i could find, he made a spacer for the top of the steering stem but i'm pretty sure you can get a different bearing with the right inside diameter edit: from another thread quote:It looks like the stock bearing sizes on the SV are: email these guys and ask http://twfracing.com/PartsPages/steeringheadbearing.html echomadman fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 04:49
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GunForumMeme posted:Any idea what a new Gladius would go for? If you're tall look at dualsports/enduros as well as standard bikes, they have the best legroom.
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Mar 17, 2012 13:49
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bladesamurai posted:Does the clicking indicate that they need to be replaced? You can try tightening them up if they're taper bearings. changing them isn't a huge job though
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Mar 23, 2012 01:51
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I have 50k+ miles on my SV( ran it with no Odo for a long time) and I don't know if the valves were ever done. Going to get them done soon though as its a pig to hot start sometimes.
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Mar 29, 2012 17:34
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Picked up a cheap SV650N top yoke (euro ebay protip, search for the names of parts you want in German, English speakers want crazy money for these things) here it is with my old bandit 250 bars in it, sitting on the messy desk of projects to finish once college pressure eases off a bit  Olde Weird Tip posted:So I'm kicking around the idea of getting an SV650. I have been thinking about trading in my Bandit for a supermoto and spending a bit of cash on a good highway bike, which a supermoto is not. First gens are slightly more powerful I think, also its cheaper to rejet than to buy a PCIII. Fully faired pointys are better looking I think. Naked I prefer the curvey. echomadman fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Mar 30, 2012 |
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Mar 30, 2012 16:47
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Xovaan posted:But twice now I thought I hosed up sixth gear somehow because my gears wouldn't go any higher. Then it turned out I was already in sixth gear because I'm a bad. But it made me realize that I really would appreciate a 7th gear, that's for sure. Quite A Tool posted:I have a horrible, horrible time remembering what gear I am in on the highway and find myself going for the mystical 7th pretty frequently. look at you two posh assholes with your fancy 6th gear. It's the one thing that bugs me about the DRZ
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Apr 19, 2012 13:31
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the walkin dude posted:
if you go up more than 1 tooth the chain probably wont be long enough
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Jun 10, 2012 16:06
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mootmoot is an officer in her majestys colonial army with aspirations to be a lawyer, and as such delegates any and all dirty work to enlisted proles who come from shabby council estates, as befits his status in society. also you retards should stop engaging his trollbait, he doesn't even have an sv, he's riding its fat sister the bandit 600 at the moment.
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Jun 18, 2012 09:59
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:The thing feels like 1/4 of a passenger, basically. The bicycle is about 20 pounds and it's just a bunch of holes so wind goes right through it. No real crosswind issues. Took it on the highway for 40 miles to a race and back and it worked fine. I could still rail around corners like normal. How do you resist the temptation to wheelie it till the bike wheel touches down
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Jun 27, 2012 20:36
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Ziploc posted:My Bandit uses the same reflector as the SV. Try a Philips motovision or Osram Silverstar bulb. if thats not enough it'd be better to rig some auxiliary lights rather than put in lovely HIDZ and blind everyone else on the road
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Jul 3, 2012 19:37
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NitroSpazzz posted:Over the past few months the second gear on my 99 sv650 has been getting worse and worse. Goes into gear fine and runs fine in it but likes to pop out on the initial 1->2 upshift, never on downshift. Started as once a month a few months ago and worked up to 1-2 times a day now. Fresh fluid doesn't seem to help at all. Didnt you just regear it? mine got more fussy about the 1-2 upshift after i went up a few teeth on the back. Sometimes getting the clutch adjustment spot on can alleviate it but its most likely wear on the shift fork.
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Feb 4, 2013 17:11
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Its a question of how much you want to spend really, there will be plenty of OEM brake levers on ebay. for aftermarket brake levers you'll can get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-SV-650-K5-Naked-No-ABS-2005-Rear-Brake-Foot-Lever-/150819251450?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231d8724fa or replace the whole footped setup with new rearsets something like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/SV650-Black...=item5ae3c31abe same story with exhausts cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/SS70-Stainl...e6f032f&vxp=mtr less cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/YOSHIMURA-R...7dd21c5&vxp=mtr lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Suzuki...fd24652&vxp=mtr
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Mar 12, 2013 04:25
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Pissingintowind posted:I have a 2002 SV650N (last year of the first gen). When I cold-start the bike in the morning in neutral, and then shift into first, it almost seems as if the clutch isn't fully disengaged. As in, there's a thud, and the bike jerks forward lightly like it would if I had shifted without disengaging the clutch. It doesn't stall, which is what would happen if the clutch actually wasn't disengaged and the bike wasn't moving. Strangely, the longer I let the bike sit and warm up with the choke on before I shift into first, the less likely this is to happen. That's just drag from cold viscous oil on the clutch plates, that's why it goes away as the engine warms up. Its more noticeable if you're kicking into first while the engine is revving higher with the choke on. You adjust the clutch up at the bars or down by the front sprocket if there is no adjustment left at the bars.
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Apr 27, 2013 22:55
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Motsew posted:I'm thinking of getting the SV650S as my first big bike. Seems a bit high from a quick glance at autotrader, the lower fairings and pillion seat cover dont add up to 1000 pounds more than most of these bikes http://www.autotrader.co.uk/search/used/bikes/suzuki/sv/postcode/dy104sa/radius/1501/sort/recpriceascdefault/maximum-age/up_to_4_years_old here's pretty much the same bike apart from the mileage, but 10k is nothing for these bikes. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...104sa?logcode=p
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May 20, 2013 23:34
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Before I jump into emulators, I thought I would do some routine maintenance on the forks. I'd like to do fork seals and fork oil. It's an 06 S model. This is a pretty good video of a fork overhaul, they're essentially identical to the SV ones. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30
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Jul 23, 2013 21:28
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Sounds more like an R/R issue, it was able to run at lower speed because there was enough power left in the battery to energise the coils. mine did exactly that when it failed, i was able to keep going for a few days by keeping the battery topped up with a charger. Get a multimeter and follow the pdf on this page to troubleshoot it. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide
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Feb 10, 2015 21:34
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