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kid sinister posted:1. What kind of lighting should I put inside? I got a few 4' paired T12 fixtures left over, but they're just little plug-in indoor jobs and I don't know how well they can deal with high humidity. As far as number 2 goes, they do sell little plugin-doodads that let you control an outlet using a remote control. Or a motion sensor that would automatically turn on the lights. As far as the humidity goes, I'm not sure. If the temperature stays fairly stable, that would help prevent condensation. Is there any way you can safely mount the lights above/outside of the tented area, and shine light through the plastic? In addition, you should really make a thread about that little setup - growing edible mushrooms at home sounds really wild. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 15:55
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This is pretty awesome, but I'd be scared about arcing. You're going to have a lot of stuff continually moving that isn't really built for electrical continuity. This motor is geared or something, right? So you don't have that thing taking off.
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Feb 18, 2013 01:36
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That's actually pretty neat. A half-inch in my opinion would probably work just fine for something as low as 120V.
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Feb 18, 2013 02:26
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Crackpipe posted this in the industrial electricity A/T. This is simply far too good to not cross-post: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42Kn9JlXE5w "We have a major electrical fire."
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Feb 21, 2013 11:54
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kid sinister posted:Dude, all that's missing is some guitars and swinging hair I don't know if we absolutely should or absolutely should not send a link of this video to Till Lindemann. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Feb 22, 2013 |
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Feb 22, 2013 00:01
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:What is best practice for runs where cat5/coax/similar must run along side or cross over mains? One of the industrial rules-of-thumb is to avoid running signal wires in parallel with power wires. Crossing at a 90 degree angle is OK. The length of the run also makes a difference - if they are close and in parallel for a few inches or a few hundred feet. It also makes an impact what is going on with the mains - if we're talking about a 12AWG 120V cable that feeds a few receptacles in a room, or three 2/0 cables going between the output of a 480V motor drive to a motor, where you're going to have a ton of harmonic noise depending on the drive topology. If the signal cables are shielded, twisted-pair, or both, they will be much more immune to noise. If the cable is shielded, it must be grounded at one end only to ensure that a ground-loop doesn't occur. The coax will probably be fairly immune, and I believe the cat-5 uses a series of twisted pair wires. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Feb 24, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2013 22:52
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kid sinister posted:Yup, all CATs use twisted pair. The higher the CAT-number and revisions, the more tightly twisted the pairs are and the less susceptible they are to crosstalk and interference. The code reflects this now, about how low and mains voltage cables aren't allowed to share a raceway anymore. If you're using a cable tray, aren't you allowed to have one side for signal wires, and another side for low voltage power wires, as long as there's a metal partition separating them? I've seen some installations where you have several 4-20mA signals, 24VDC power, thermocouples, and soforth on the left side of the tray, there's a metal barrier, and then there's power cables (120V and even 480V, all usually in 600V rated THHN power cable) on the right side. Low voltage only in the same tray. Medium-voltage stuff like 6900V or 14kV was in an armored EPR triplex cable (generally 1/0 to 500kcmil) in a separate tray. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 02:14
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Bad Munki posted:You can get usb keystone jacks for hooking up whatever you want, within range of usb of course.I'm using one for a computer in my basement, with the tv in my family room. The computer's only presence in the room is a small keystone plate with hdmi, ethernet, and usb, the last of which goes to a small hub in the family room for the wireless mouse/keyboard dongles, and anything else I might want to plug in. Last I heard a lot of those USB-power outlets cannot charge high-draw items like iPads.
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Feb 26, 2013 23:00
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The plasma globe power supply is just a flyback transformer, right?
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Mar 3, 2013 03:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Probably similar to this (looks like embedding won't work, so skip to 9m40s): I love this guy's videos. So. Much. And he even spliced in scenes from "Pulse"! Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Mar 12, 2013 |
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Mar 12, 2013 01:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:If those Photonicinduction videos are any indication, just about as long as you drat well please before everything turns to fire. As far as shorting goes, I'd be concerned about arc flash. I've heard about people pulling meters out who got burned from arc flash. Are you religious...? Worst. Arc flash. Ever. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 15, 2013 02:13
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What you really want to do is look at both the current and voltage at the same time, and since this thing runs via a variable-speed drive, the current and voltage at the motor terminals should be true-RMS readings. Am I correct in assuming that the drive just acts like a dimmer switch, and basically when the speed is low the motor simply has a very large amount of slip? Or does it actually have an inverter or similar configuration? I'm wondering if the 1KVA autotransformer is "choking off" the current when the motor is trying to start. If the slip is high and the motor is trying to start, even with a soft-starter or VFD you can still potentially pull a lot of current. Not as much as a direct across-the-line starter, but still a lot. (I've had motors that soft-start across a resistor, autotransformer, or reactor (inductor) to cut the voltage seen by the motor, so instead of pulling 3000A line-to-line when they start, they only pull 1500A and then drop and synchronize with a full-load rating of 200A. Full "real deal" variable-speed drive (NOT just a soft-start) starting with a voltage source inverter or a load-commutated current inverter is much gentler on the motor, drivetrain, and electrical system than soft-starting since you can start at like five hertz and then ramp to 60. So like if you have ten 2,000HP water pumps, each pump has two circuit breakers, start and run. Start connects it to the variable-speed drive, it gets up to 60hZ and synchronizes to the bus, both start and run breakers close, then the start breaker opens so the drive can start the next pump up.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 15, 2013 17:45
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:They can be bad and too sensitive, but there can also be a wiring fault, especially in new houses. If it's all under warranty, calling your contractor is the best bet. Probably the first place to check would be wiring at the breaker and outlets or the items being powered by the AFCI. Also I agree that you should pursue it as a "there's something wrong in the wiring" before blaming the AFCI.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:26
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wormil posted:Is it possible for household electricity to 'oscillate' for a lack of a better word, in other words for the current to drop every 2-3 seconds? If so, what might cause that? The voltage at your outlet (for the US) is ideally at about 120 volts or so. That voltage can move around during the day anywhere from 110V to 130V. Causes are the loading from customers around you who are pulling from the same upstream source. You can also get surges, sags, transients, and harmonics from a lot of different sources. If you have a factory miles away that closes in capacitor banks or starts up an arc furnace or large motor, you can probably detect that if you had a power quality analyzer connected up at your house. Generally those go unnoticed. There's a phenomena called "flicker" which is... well... where you can see lights flickering, which can be both from sags and surges. Worst case you get actual damage from really nasty transients. It's uncommon but possible. I've troubleshot industrial systems where surges caused things like computers and instrumentation to crash, the solution was to install a commercial double-conversion UPS. There was another case where surges were interfering with unexpectedly sensitive equipment, and I installed a small line reactor (inductor) to filter out the transients, and that worked well. Simple example these guys at Dranetz gave was where this person's satellite receiver kept getting fried due to electrical transients. So the satellite people told the homeowner he needed to talk to the power company. The power company hooked up a recorder and saw nasty spikes and transients, and ultimately they discovered the man's wife had a vacuum cleaner that had a really bad motor in it, and when she ran it the recorder lit up like a Christmas tree. They replaced her vacuum cleaner (it was cheaper than installing additional filters on the line for thousands of dollars) and the problem went away. I agree that it's the harmonics. Can you remove the blade and put it back in place? I'm wondering if a slight adjustment might make the problem go away. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 13:27
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Induction motor, right? So at 60Hz and a two-pole motor that's 3600RPM, four poles that's 1800RPM. The slip (since this isn't a synchronous motor) will bring it well under that "maximum" (zero slip) speed. 3000RPM would be about 15% slip, that seems kinda' high for full load. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 21:06
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You can do it, but it would probably not be worth your time.
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Apr 13, 2013 04:56
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Good work Munki! Yeah, any 240V system you need to switch both legs simultaneously. Likewise if you have a 240V load, you cannot wire it to two separate single-pole breakers, you must connect it to a two-pole breaker. Likewise on three-phase systems systems with a three-phase load, you want a three-pole breaker that interrupts all three poles simultaneously. (I've seen four-pole breakers, for things like generator transfer switches where you want to isolate the neutral, as well as DC breaker applications where you run through multiple poles so you can break the DC easier.) kid sinister posted:No, the ground will remain ground and is there for safety (and sometimes shielding). With 240V the 2 phases are the opposite of one another, so think of them as each phase acts as the other's "neutral" in a sense. Whenever one phase is positive, the other is negative and vice versa. I saw a video where a guy wired up a switch for a ceiling fan in a bathroom with 2C+G Romex, and what he did was the neutral became a switched leg, and the ground (which he taped off white) became the new neutral. That's a BIG no-no. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 03:34
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Three phase color codes (US typical): Black, red, blue (A, B, C) for 120/208V three phase, but it's also used on high-voltage systems (saw three 32kV lines incoming to a transformer primary where the phases were taped black, red, blue on the outermost jacket). Also common on 69/120V potential transformers. Brown, orange, yellow (A, B, C) for 277/480V. Neutral for 222/480 is grey. Red, yellow, blue (A, B, C) is a UK standard, I've seen some test equipment where it's the standard for A, B, and C voltage or 69/120V potential transformer connections. I personally like this color code the best, but it is not standard in the United States. If you have a three-phase delta system with a center-tapped neutral between two of the phases, the high or "wild" leg will be marked Other notes * As far as commercial and industrial buildings go, I believe that systems that are related to fire/life safety are always in red conduit and boxes so that they stand out. * For low voltage DC I've typically seen blue and blue with a white stripe * In some industrial cabinets you need to be very careful not to do things like mix neutral together or confuse power sources. I've seen cabinets that contained 24VDC, 120VAC from a central UPS, "dirty" 120V from a non-ups source, and 125VDC all within the same cabinet. Facilities sometimes have unique color codes for CTs, PTs, UPS/non-UPS, and DC sources. * This is also industrial/commercial, but occasionally systems and components use an "isolated ground" or an "instrument ground". This goes back to the same grounding point as all the other equipment (if you run it to a different ground point like an i-beam or large water pipe it can create current loops and nasty power quality problems) but is kept apart from other grounds. These grounds are usually marked and connected separately from the safety grounds. * Neutral wires must be treated with respect. If a fault opens up the neutral, the neutral wire can become live in single and three-phase systems. An open neutral voltage can be unpredictable because in single (Edison) and three-phase systems, that voltage is dependent on how balanced the loading is between the different phases. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Apr 21, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 05:00
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hemorrhage posted:Per the NEC high legs are required to be marked orange. Yeah, you're right! I thought it was purple! babyeatingpsychopath posted:Here's the McMaster-Carr page for toggle switches. You're looking for # circuits = 2. Go crazy. Will McMaster sell to individuals or are they only B2B? Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Apr 21, 2013 |
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Apr 21, 2013 22:16
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Warnings: NOT insulated. Will NOT protect against electrical shock. The additional concern I have is that its got an uninsulated metal shaft. Even for low voltage live work you get tools that are insulated almost all the way to the tip. It makes it easy to accidentally shock yourself, or short-circuit the panel from phase to ground if the shaft touches the panel and bus simultaneously. Best case you get a shower of sparks and damage the panel, worst case may involved going to the hospital for (likely minor) burns depending on the protection on the main breaker/fuses. (For a commercial or industrial panel fed from a much larger transformer or unit sub, it could result in much more serious burns.)
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Apr 28, 2013 04:49
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I'm not trying to be a dick, but I have absolutely no idea where to begin on this. A diagram would be a wonderful start.
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Apr 28, 2013 21:07
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Those are cam-lock connectors, typically seen on welding cable. The relative size of those looks like they'd be on a 100A cable. Do they make those rated for 4160V? EDIT: They do! Sort-of. Cord-and-plug up to 15kV class (for 13.8kV applications). Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 00:14 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 00:08
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Is that ground connection carrying both your neutral and ground? If that pipe is carrying neutral and earth current, and the connection is flaky, that could be causing the problem. Do you have a multimeter to check the outlet voltages? If you do and some are high and others are low (110 + 130 = 240) then the neutral connection is broken at the panel. This is absolutely worth calling an electrician immediately on.
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Jun 16, 2013 11:25
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Farside, you're probably not going to like this but based on what you described, if you can scrape together the funds to cover it I would strongly recommend still calling an electrician to at least look over the system to make sure nothing else is funky.
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Jun 16, 2013 21:46
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Bad Munki posted:I'm going to cross-post this from the Tools thread because it seems like an also-good place to ask: You might be able to find a motor rewind/repair shop in your area that could take a look at it. Be sure to let them know up front from the horsepower/size of the motor. I only dealt with larger motors (>250 HP) so it might be so small that it wouldn't be worth it to work on, but you could try. They might even be able to give some good advice. If I run into anyone at work who might be able to offer advice I'll show them the pictures. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 02:15
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kid sinister posted:Nah, I'm talking 4 switches in a single breaker. Maybe I imagined it? You can get molded-case circuit breakers, industrial/commercial ones, that are four pole. Not the type that install in a panelboard. That is for oddball systems where you'd need to disconnect the neutral or DC applications where you need multiple breaking points in series to safely extinguish the arc.
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Aug 16, 2013 22:43
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kid sinister posted:You piqued my interest. Do you got a pic or link? Sure. Eaton's Molded Case Breakers - No pictures unfortunately but you can order them in 2, 3, or 4 pole configuration. I don't want to derail and these breakers are a little larger than what you might see in a typical house (especially the R-frame breaker with 2500A.)
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Aug 17, 2013 03:57
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Ender.uNF posted:They don't bother burying the lines in conduit of any kind and it was not nearly as deep as I thought. It makes me take the "call before you dig" warnings about 100X as seriously. Always call before you dig "It's blowing the **** out of my bucket!!!" High Lord Elbow posted:Well, I decided to replace an old dimmer switch. Nothing fancy, not even a 3-way. What does the note say?!
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Sep 20, 2013 02:08
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My apartment is having some weird problems tonight, I keep losing half the circuits intermittently, I am thinking that their is some utility problem that keeps single phasing the system. So I am unplugging sensitive loads and gonna keep an eye on it. When it happens there is some voltage, but it is very, very low. Like some very light loads will stay on, others drop completely, and if I try to turn on a Cfl bulb it will flash and come on very dim. EDIT confirmed this is a utility issue. Going back to bed with sensitive loads isolated. EDIT 2: ELECTRIC BOOGALOO: The utility fixed it around 4:00 AM. Other apartments were all single-phased with low voltage. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 07:39
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Bad Munki posted:My advanced math skills tells me that means it only takes 1 wrap for typical household wiring. And 200 wraps for 40kV! Seems legit. We used this different "packing" tape for higher voltages, it's like this stuff that's really thick non-sticky and elastic electrical tape. Not sure how many volts per turn that is but once that's applied, you seal it up with I think Super 88. We did that for insulating cable-to-bus connections at voltages as high as 13800V at a couple hundred amps. (Touching any medium voltage connection or cable, insulated or not, while live is never recommended.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 02:52
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I am going to hit the most important thing first: running a generator in an enclosed or even semi-enclosed space can result in dangerous or lethal CO2 buildup! If you do something like this, you'll need to be extremely careful and make sure you have a way to get intake air in, and exhaust out. This cannot be something you throw together on your own with duct tape and tie wraps. While we're at it, don't even think about backfeeding (using a male/male plug) an outlet to energize part of your house either. The transformer on the pole that goes from 4160 or 7200V down to 240/120V works backwards and forwards, so by putting electricity back into the damaged line you can shock or electrocute a line worker. Or if you're lucky you'll have a couple of pissed off linemen banging on your door and popping off your meter. Some people get away with this by throwing their main, but it's still way too dangerous to do. You can run long extension cords, but they need to be thick enough so voltage drop isn't a problem. Also, you mentioned running the generator into a UPS. My concern there is how sensitive the UPS is. Even though you get a sinusoidal 120V input coming into the UPS, it may not be as clean and well-regulated as the utility. So you may see events where the UPS keeps switching onto battery because it is detecting power quality problems with the power line. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jun 20, 2014 |
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Jun 20, 2014 21:28
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One of the things you guys need to consider: with a power grid connection you may have intermittently bad power. The smaller (like islands) or more poorly designed the grid, the more problems you may have. If you have a tiny generator, you might have consistantly bad power. Motronic posted:Yes. Tim Thomas posted:I don't understand why lovely power would matter to a rectified cap bank and inverter. The problem is that a cheap UPS has two or three modes: 1. On the power line, sending the power line to the load and charging the battery 2. Using an internal buck/boost autotransformer to improve voltage regulation when the line sags (120V to 100V) or surges (120V to 140V) 3. Isolating the load from the power line, and using the battery to run an inverter This sort of UPS doesn't isolate the load from the line when it is running normally, only when the UPS goes into battery mode. I had a cheaper UPS that did have a low/medium/high sensitivity setting. If your area had poor power quality, low sensitivity might help. I always kept mine set to "high". A better UPS uses double conversion - it always transforms AC to DC then back to AC (many variable speed drives do that too). Because of that, you can have much shittier AC coming in that will never reach the load. As long as the AC voltage coming to the rectifier stage (AC to DC) in is consistent enough to keep the DC link at a voltage high enough to run the inverter (DC to AC), you don't need to switch to battery to protect yourself from some power quality problems that would freak out other UPS units. Double-conversion UPS units, even smaller ones, are way more expensive. I think Eaton sells some deskside ones starting maybe around $400. The ones I've used are commercial 480/277V units that cost like $150,000 and needs a room full of batteries. (Plus the output on those were extremely clean, like less THD than the incoming power line, and the output was a very clean sinusoid.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Jun 21, 2014 |
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Jun 21, 2014 14:27
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Crotch Fruit posted:You have to insert both sides of the plug at the same time, some people apparently have tremendous difficulty doing this but so long as you're not stupid they should work great. As I child I shocked myself once by sticking my finger in between the blades of a partially plugged in plug. I think the anti-tamper shutters are a great idea that will save lives, but ultimately NEMA outlets and plugs are still pretty much unsafe by design.
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Jun 21, 2014 19:14
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ThinkFear posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAGhrOgo9Qs I've seen very old, very large liquid Rheostat systems in industry that were only recently eliminated and replaced with variable-speed drives. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 01:40
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PuTTY riot posted:just this really I've watched arc flash testing videos filmed at a few thousand frames a second. You can see the AC "pulse" in brightness at that framrate.
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Oct 23, 2014 01:41
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There's been some chat about checking for voltage with meters - both standard and non-contact meters. Just a few points to make involving safety: 1. Non-contact meters will only detect AC voltage (which isn't a problem for almost all home applications). Using a meter on a DC power source can cause a dangerous false-negative. I've also seen false positives on voltages that are low but at high frequencies. 2. Whatever meter you're using (contact or non-contact), you should always try and use a hot-dead-hot method for checking for voltage:
3. As long as you're doing standard around-home work, cheaper meters (except for some of the really cheap ones that have counterfeit certification) are OK. If you're doing stuff at the feed to your meter panel, or are working on something bigger (like at a place of business), watch out - you may need a more expensive meter (like a Fluke or Gosen) that's designed to work safely on larger electrical systems. larchesdanrew posted:With the weather turning colder, I'd like to make sure my pup is nice and warm in his dog house. I just use a low wattage light bulb (plugged into a 110 GFCI outlet) in his house to radiate a bit of heat and it keeps it a nice 68-70 degrees in there even on sub-freezing days (also he's scared of the dark). I figured for a nice little project I wanted to try hooking the light up to some sort of pressure plate so that it only turns on while he's in the dog house and so I don't have to go out there and make sure it's either plugged in or unplugged. Only comment is that for something like a dog house, you might want to find something that's weatherproofed. (Not serious.) How about an occupancy sensor combined with a temperature PID controller? I could whip up a basic design if you have a budget of, say, less than $1500 for this project. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Nov 1, 2014 |
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Nov 1, 2014 04:36
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jaken97 posted:Got a lovely scare this morning, kids are eating breakfast in the kitchen, and come to me saying something is sparking. One of the kitchen outlets was throwing off sparks. Kill the breakers to half the house cause I don't trust breaker labels and killed any breaker that said outlet on it. Pull the face plate and find out this house has aluminum wiring, and one of the wires had gotten worked loose and was shorting against the outlet. Guess I will be replacing all my outlets with CO/ALR outlets until we can save up to do a whole house rewire with copper. Wow, you just dodged one hell of a bullet. 
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Nov 9, 2014 23:40
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The WiFi may be a WPS "push button" setup (press a button on the device and the router at about the same time to pair).
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Nov 27, 2014 01:14
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raej posted:While troubleshooting, I swapped a breaker pushing 96v with a breaker pushing 120v. It seems that the spot in the fuse box is causing the voltage drop, not the breaker. I would shut off all the problem circuits and call an electrician. Something is messed up and you should have a professional look at it. raej posted:Did something go wrong, or is it just time that the breakers are slowly dying. That's absolutely not normal or "slowly dying". I would strongly recommend shutting off the circuits (turn off at the breaker) that exhibit abnormal voltages and calling an electrician. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 01:58
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 21:26 |
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Do those things just stick over the end of the MC or do you need a heat gun to shrink them down? EDIT: Looks like they just snap into place. I was thinking of something like a breakout boot (for bigger stuff). I was watching a safety video online about commercial wiring, and they were specifically talking about 347V applications, and implied it was used in building lighting. I thought that per the NEC, inside buildings you could only use up to 277V lighting even for large industrial areas like hangars or high-bays in a factory, and I think you can go up to 480V outdoors for lights that are very high off the ground. I wasn't sure if the video was from the US, Canada, or England, but I think it might have been Canada. Do people actually use 347V for indoor lighting? Is that even allowed? Video in reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSrpc8nxnHM Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 03:08
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