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I eviscerated my 95 f650 today, engine is puking oil into the airbox and all signs point towards a counterbalance shaft seal. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterBalanceSealFailureFAQ.htm tiny loving part that requires the engine to be dropped and split. I have a full seal and gasket kit for it so while its open I'll replace everything i can. no pics of the teardown as i didnt want to get my camera or phone destroyed with grime and oil, i'll be needing a few new exhaust header studs and nuts too as i had to cut off the lower nut on both header pipes, also all the hoses are perished and crappy so i'll be replacing them aswell. I'll be bringing the engine into the kitchen to split it so i'll take plenty of pics of the whole thing. The local shop wanted 300 euro to do it with me dropping the engine and bringing it in, 500 with them doing it all. given the current state of my finances my time isnt really that valuable.
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Apr 10, 2009 18:31
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I bought a monster... I'd suggest going back to the stock gearing for a while till you're used to the bike, -1 and +2 is a very significant increase in wheelieability, and that bike isnt exactly short on power to begin with.
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May 9, 2009 09:55
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Today i went to fit my +3 rear sprocket, only to discover (after cutting my old chain and taking off my wheel) that they sent me a stock 44 tooth. hopefully the also cocked up the chain size or else its going to be too long for this sprocket. I'm loving furious as I emailed, called and faxed them this order (as it wasnt a stock sprocket and wasn't listed on the website) and they still hosed it up. if you're in the uk or ireland don't use B&C express for anything, they're retards. edit: horay the chain is way too long, now i can either cut it and make do with stock gearing for another season, or i can be bikeless for the holiday weekend, and probably all next week while i wait for the right sprocket to be delivered. man i'm totally pissed off right now. echomadman fucked around with this message at 11:41 on May 30, 2009 |
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May 30, 2009 10:52
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laymil posted:Also, $1 prize to the first person able to guess what I used for the brackets to mount the gauge. echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jun 8, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 22:47
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laymil posted:You win. Let me know your paypal since I don't make empty promises haha, my buddies "temporary" (2 years since we made it now, still going strong) checker-plate flyscreen on his fazer is held on with those. it was all i had for a ghetto rig up after he smashed the fairings in a crash and needed something to keep water off his clocks. my pc still has 2 open slots at the back.
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Jun 9, 2009 00:30
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we moved the ignition on my buddys fireblade streetfighter down from the top yoke to inside the frame today. it allows the clocks to sit way back and will make fitting a small flyscreen (next weekends task) a lot easier..JPG#via=salr) .JPG#via=salr) [IMG]http://img.waffleimages.com/b969d61e4c5d189eee657c9ae59126a0c701d3ee/P1010247 (Medium).JPG#via=salr][/IMG]
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Jun 13, 2009 18:44
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Finally fitted the vrod headlight to my sv, made up some temporary brackets so i can ride it for the moment, next up is a veypor to replace the huge stock SVs clocks cant find a before picture. 
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Apr 26, 2010 20:11
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benwards posted:Ugh, I went to four stores today trying to track down a 12mm crush washer. No luck. Am I asking for the wrong thing? The Cycle Gear guy knew what I was talking about, but the three auto stores he recommended just gave me looks like "Do you mean a 12 gauge washer?" if you still have the old one anneal it with a blowtorch (copper only not aluminium), good for a couple of re-uses
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May 29, 2010 22:38
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In the last two weekends i have fitted acewell clocks and an rf900 rear shock (which was previously re-sprung and revalved for a gsxr400 racebike) to my SV, had to make up new dogbones to get the ride height back to stock as the rf shock is a bit shorter than original. Both are big improvements, the original shock had 50,000 miles on it and having a working speedo again is a real novelty.
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Mar 22, 2011 18:36
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Persh posted:Laid a plank over it
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Jul 2, 2011 10:23
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the walkin dude posted:That must be retardedly loud
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Oct 3, 2011 22:48
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Ziploc posted:In other news, I got my 7inch headlight! It's from a Vetter got it nice and cheap. Looks to be in solid shape too. And for 30$, it even game with a working headlight. I had to google Vetter to realise he's the guy that made the windjammer fairings. However that led me to this bike mileage competition http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/2011-Streamliner/2011-vetter-streamliner-p50.html which was won by this guy http://hayes-dt.com/index.html and briefly raised my hopes of finally being able to buy a diesel thumper engine. but sadly they're still not available. In that competition the standard diesel (95.3mpg) beat some of the streamliners despite having typical lovely motorcycle aerodynamics and of course the diesel streamliner hammered everyone else.
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Dec 29, 2011 17:27
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I sorted out the jetting on my DRZ. Previous owner was still on his restricted license so there was a washer in the carb boot which had to go, put in the appropriate new main jet, removed all the emissions plumbing. Removed the solenoid that limits power in low gears and changed the pilot air jet to suit. did the 3x3 mod. It pulls nicely now and you can feel really the difference in the first three gears with the solenoid gone. Have 2 Michelin Pilot powers in the garage waiting to go on once i get spare tubes and also a set of case protectors
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Jan 1, 2012 22:31
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Do I have to drain the oil to replace the clutch cover? I assume so, wet clutch and all. I'd actually loosened six of the bolts before I thought better. Put it on the sidestand. Then pivot the bike over a bit on the stand so the back wheel comes up, put a block of wood under it and let the bike back down. (you can do this by yourself but its easier if someone is there to put the timber under the wheel) the bike should be leaned over enough to take off the clutch cover without spilling more than a few drops
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Jan 14, 2012 01:43
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Zubumafoo posted:One thing I'm debating is to go with a windscreen of some sort. I was a little uncomfortable riding at highway speeds on a naked bike, but I'm thinking this could be just due to my inexperience. I really like the look of the bike with no screen, and like being in the open wind <55 mph. If you don't already wear earplugs while riding i'd recommend it, cutting down on wind noise really makes long periods of high speed driving more comfortable. Remember to hold onto the bike with your knees, keep your arms loose and lean forward to let the wind hold you up at freeway speeds, once you get used to it you should have no problems.
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Jan 26, 2012 11:45
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Just got off the phone with a guy on CL. He'll be bringing me a set of DRZ dirt wheels with tires and a desert tank. I have to swap the rotors on the dirt wheels to SM rotors right? Anyone have any idea how much that's going to cost me? I'd really like to avoid swapping the rotors off of my SM wheels back and forth, but this spent most of my "bike" cash for the month. Sounds like the ideal time to buy a bigger front rotor for your sumo wheel.
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Mar 7, 2012 21:21
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GanjamonII posted:What happens if you crash? Is it tucked out of the way or will it slide along the ground and abrade/catch on fire ala R6? Looks like it replaces the cosmetic wings bolted to the standard tank with ones that are part of the tank and thus full of petrol, so i guess it depends on how far you slide really.
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Mar 12, 2012 17:32
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I swapped my rotors and sprocket over from my 17" rims. Whoever put the sprocket on was an idiot. I think they may have used an impact wrench because they were absolutely fused. I used heat and everything else in my tool box to no avail. I finally said gently caress it and ripped'em off with vicegrips. Is the stock SM gearing not very tall for those wheels? You're probably better off buying a bigger rear sprocket and longer chain to suit it and swapping back and forth
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Mar 22, 2012 19:57
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deliverator posted:First entry in the Used Bike Blues: My recently purchased Tiger 1050 stranded me at the liquor store due to a dead battery. It's my own drat fault -- the guy who sold it to me warned about the battery and it had been occasionally reluctant to start these past few days but I just blew it off, thinking a solid few hours in the saddle ought to charge that sucker up good as new. I was incorrect. It's a four-year-old battery that probably went long stretches without use (the PO has a garage full of bikes). Better to replace it now than trickle-charge it up and hope it doesn't fail me when I'm far more than half a mile from home. If you have a multimeter its probably worth double checking that the charging circuit is working ok. here's a handy pdf http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
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Mar 29, 2012 18:53
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I put those bars on my sv, along with the front MC from an Aprilla Mille and some new brake lines. previously :   now   The whole gang, 2350 ccs of ridin on mah soosuukay 
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Apr 2, 2012 21:24
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the walkin dude posted:The shop confirmed that my starter relay was hosed, and the R/R was no good, and measured 70 VAC from the three wirings of my stator. Relieved as hell now. for the price of a $15 multimeter you could have done that yourself, don't replace it with an oem one. get one of these~> http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm
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Apr 18, 2012 16:34
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Sharp_angus posted:Installed a Yoshi TRS slip-on onto my GS500. Stupid gasket stuff they recommend takes a whole DAY to cure. I just want to try it outttttt. Looks nice, do you need to rejet for that can?
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May 7, 2012 23:37
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Crayvex posted:My 4 year old helped me clean and lube my chain this evening. He spun the tire and I did everything else. Its hard to tell from that pic so you may have done it aswell but you don't need to spray the outside of the link plates, just spray the wax in between the plates and the link bodies, all you are lubricating is the o-rings. spraying the outside just attracts road dirt and crud to stick to your chain
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Jun 12, 2012 01:16
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It is covered better than it looks. 
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Not my bike but I spent the morning today being deafened by a Fireblade in the back of a truck. Sorted out some fuelling problems, specifically tracking down fuel starvation problem at high rpms and tuning for its new akrapovic system. ended up finding a cracked vacuum hose which was causing that and dropping the needles 3 clips which fixed the pig rich idle. This run was prior to sorting it out, as the bogging and flameshow show, I've no video of the later dyno runs as i was standing inside the truck holding a fuel bottle over my head to keep enough juice flowing into its gaping maw. It pulls sweetly from idle now, power is up to 124bhp up from 117 last time with the old exhaust system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF-OJOIyp9A edit: its last dyno a few months ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HLIRaerdow echomadman fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 22:24
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the walkin dude posted:14/44 sprocket set installed on the Ninja. Bike flies and shrieks with even more willingness. Streetability++++++. But the speedometer is showing 20 mph over the real speed so that will have to be fixed. If its the oem kit I've fitted a speedohealer from http://www.healtech-electronics.com/ to a friends bike, was pretty easy to do. If its aftermarket you just need to reprogram it.
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Sep 23, 2012 18:23
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I either blew both rear blinkers or have a failing relay. They are both flashing rapidly up front with no lights in back. Both have been working fine. Any bets as to what I broke this time? the drz flasher relay is integrated with the sidestand safety relay , so you'll probably need a specific relay or do a bit of bodging to get a generic one to work. Cheap LED indicators don't last pissing time on the drz in my experience, i went back to the stock ones, they're really well damped from vibrations and can take an impact without breaking off the bike. it being a suzuki though it probably uses the same relay as half the model range so i doubt it'd be hard to find/expensive
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Dec 30, 2012 04:35
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Didn't do much today bar charge the battery, tomorrow the whole loom has to be checked for damage/shorts. Still at least its in the house and not outside in the rain or the bird/birdpoop infested shed 
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Jan 11, 2013 02:33
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Saga posted:It's a Cee Bee Arr Nahn Hunner'd Fay-er Blayde. Street fightered. ding ding, I posted pics of it before, it belongs to my mate. gsxr1000 front end and tailpiece, 1996 cbr in the middle, motorgadget clocks, LSL levers, Gilles (i think) rearsets, ohlins etc.. he can post its long and lurid history someday  turns out the main lead from the battery negative to the starter motor had vibrated off and the whole loom was earthing through a very narrow wire that had been run to the body of the R/R, which up and melted, leaving the bike lacking any earth at all. put it back on with some locktite on the bolt, now it starts up real nice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Jd0wb9nvE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Jd0wb9nvE
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Jan 11, 2013 19:56
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Z3n posted:Any streetfighter is worthless to a thief. The value parts are the shiny bits. I don't know about that, all the streetfighters belonging to people I know have stupidly expensive shiny parts on them.
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Feb 1, 2013 18:17
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Z3n posted:Right - the problem is that all of those items are easily recognizeable, and have a pretty small market. A single piece of GSX-R 600 fairing in good shape will sell for 200 bucks easy, and is very untraceable with a huge potential pool of buyers. Same reason it's rare to get custom painted bikes, or other rare custom upgraded bikes stolen. There's not exactly a lot of riders out there with ISR/Brembo brakes, LSL triples, etc. I love buying racebikes with upgrades like that because there's a decent amount of money in them, but the market is very small and not very anonymous. poo poo stolen here (Ireland) goes to England or Eastern Europe and poo poo stolen there comes here usually, if you don't find your bike burnt out in a ditch somewhere within a few days its either gone out of the country or put away till its needed as a getaway vehicle for a robbery or murder
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Feb 1, 2013 22:28
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:drat, my guy charges $35 if you just take the bike in. $5 if you bring the wheels. He also beats online prices for the tires. I'm so glad I found a decent mechanic in my area. Maybe its not a factor where you're riding but those grips look like they'd freeze your hands in cold weather, just using the levers in winter makes my fingers cold touching the metal through my gloves. I used to tape them up in winter back when I had a half hour commute.
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Mar 24, 2013 00:08
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KARMA! posted:Marfan syndrome. Could be, could also be aluminiums awesome heat sinking powers and wet gloves in winter.
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Mar 24, 2013 01:27
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Abe Froman posted:I haven't been able to do anything to my ride for 3 weeks. Somehow i pinched a nerve in my left leg or back and can't flex my ankle. That happened to me years ago, it was my right ankle so i could still ride a bike. I could press down, but not lift up my foot, it just came back of its own accord after a few months.
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Jun 20, 2013 23:18
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Abe Froman posted:"donorcycles.". Hurrr. keeping with the theme clearly the solution is a suicide shifter 
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Jun 21, 2013 00:42
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EX250 Type R posted:
Like I said on irc you'll probably have to reweld the new sprocket unless you want to split the engine to fit a new shaft. We had to do the same thing on a similar vintage yamaha before, although we didnt put that much weld on
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Jul 1, 2013 15:48
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Orange Someone posted:Guess I need to drill out the screw in the reservoir, but I don't have a screw to replace it, and I'm not attacking it until I can have it secured afterwards. Any local bike mechanic should have plenty of old brake bits lying around to cannibalise for a screw, also have a look on your drz to see if they match. its not going anywhere for a while anyway.
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Aug 31, 2013 15:05
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Razzled posted:I went to home depot and tried to match as best I could without knowing the exact specs (closest I can find in the repair manual is 8-1.25x130, are these the correct measurements?) but they were too thick in diameter. Anyone know what the measurements are/where I can find exact replacements to order? the mirror clamp bolts are probably M5, M8 sounds too big, maybe you're confusing the spanner size with the thread size. edit: you may well have fitted the bolt but not tightened it, the drz will happily discard any inadequately torqued fasteners in a few miles of riding echomadman fucked around with this message at 22:42 on May 17, 2014 |
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May 17, 2014 22:40
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Razzled posted:Somewhat on topic: I bought an EVO protaper bar and risers today. Do bikes typically have enough extra slack in the cable to support 1" of raise? I'm scared to change anything because I can't torque stuff back down to spec precisely The DRZ has plenty of brake line, but depending on the height of the risers you may run into problems with the throttle cables at full lock. Try the risers with the stock fatbars first (don't disconnect the switchgear or cables) thats only 4 bolts. If it looks like everything reaches then go and buy a small torque wrench before you buy any more farkles for your bike.
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Jul 6, 2014 10:23
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The falco has an oddball speedo sensor/wheel bearing combo that cant be bought anymore doesn't it? I seem to remember someone in CA posting about it before
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Aug 14, 2015 18:30
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