Z3n posted:

Also, am I the only one that thinks that that looks vaugely photoshopped?

Gnaghi posted:

The problem with the supermoto is I have to run it right off the battery, since at idle the thing will literally turn off and on. I really need to figure out how this goddamn kickstarter works.

TylerC 2.0 posted:

Anyone got any tips on removing paint from plastic? I'm ready to bring back teal and the Dremel aint doin the trick...

Pete posted:

The headlights are bright - currently 35w halogen but it'll take 50w and different coloured bulbs. The best thing is a new bulb I can find in a DIY shop for 35 pence..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhAOh1ZzCBo

needknees posted:

Tubes, lol. So much fun!

Z3n posted:

50k on a streetbike in all weather over a year and a half).

Olde Weird Tip posted:

Engine life now measured in seconds.

Ripoff posted:

A couple of quick questions for all the supermotard owners here since I've been considering nabbing one in the last few weeks:

1) I live in Pittsburgh and as it appears right now the city seems to be "meh, gently caress it" on the idea of repairing the streets (case in point: we had a landslide on a major roadway that helped traffic flow out of the city back in January and there's still no word on if they've even started repairing it). When I'm riding the current bike, a 2000 Honda VFR, I find myself bouncing along the roads due to nothing being smooth and whipping side to side to avoid large cracks/potholes/etc. To be blunt, I hate riding a sportbike here. Would a supermotard make sense for lovely quality roads and make riding enjoyable again? Or is it just as stressful in your opinion?

2) Because I'm in the city I tend to get a lot of no-neck mouth breathers that take honestly 30 seconds to respond to traffic lights turning green. This means I spend a lot of time sitting in traffic in the city before I can get out of the area, as well as going about 10-15 mph max through the tunnels on my commute to work. The VFR tends to overheat a ton in this traffic, and I'd imagine a Supermotard would do the same. Are there supermotards with electric fans or other ways of dissipating heat, or do you have to keep it moving constantly?

Thanks for answering my stupid questions. Every day I ride out I get a little bit closer to selling the VFR and quitting altogether, so I'm wondering if I'm using the wrong tool for the job.

Niven posted:

I installed my FCR last summer with essentially no mechanical experience so any mope with a few tools should be able to pull it off. A few of the lessons I took out of it:

If you don't already have it, get the extended fuel screw. And if you do get it, take note that the thread/tip isn't the same length as on the stock screw so you can't necessarily follow the "X turns" suggestion.

When putting the carb in push the boot from the airbox back and then use the frame to hold in in place while you wrestle the FCR in (pain in the rear end)

Don't be a loving dumbass like me and forget to run the vac line (I actually hooked up one of the vent lines to the nipple then wondered why it kept dying on me).

If you've got any sort of cheap throttle lock that can make it a lot easier to get the throttle cables out, zip ties can help stop the wheel from springing back when cramming your fingers in there trying to hook the cables back up.

That one looks different from mine so maybe it doesn't have the accelerator pump (MX?) but if it does, look in to the o-ring mod.

Enjoy the whistle

Z3n posted:

Dear Spiffness:

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcycles/2012models/2012-KTM-690SMCR.htm

I don't think you'll miss that 13k in your bank account much.

BotchedLobotomy posted:

I just hit 3K miles on my DRZSM and my rear tire is looking tired. Its the stock wheels, & I want to upgrade to the distanzias except without wasting a good front tire. Are bikes like a car where mixing and matching tires isnt the greatest idea? Should I just buy another stock rear until the front wears and then replace the set?

If I stick with the stock wheel, what rear brand/type would I need to get? Its a 2008.

Thanks!

Orange Someone posted:

Guys

How does this one look?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-drz400e-supermoto-enduro-swaps-/120907944915?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item1c26acd3d3

Is there anything specific to DRZs that I would need to poke or prod?

Also, how is a 400SM different from a 400E that's been supermotoed?

Olde Weird Tip posted:

This thread needs to be off page two.

Tried out some GoPro mounts today on the DRZ:

Suction cup to clutch cover:





And suction cup to radiator cowl:

Safety Dance posted:

Why do people twist the handlebars while wheelying? I would want to keep it laser straight.

Olde Weird Tip posted:

My drz came with the gel seat installed (and the stocker in a box), and I put the stocker back on and it's like an amazing upgrade from the gel seat.

Olde Weird Tip posted:

I'm replacing the turn signals with something less bulky and floppy. The stockers are just on there until i can get some replacements

Also I ziptie my plates on as well as bolt them, so if the bolts let go at least they hang on with the zip ties for a while

Olde Weird Tip posted:

Also, you cant paint a plastic tank like that, it will bubble and turn to poo poo in like a week.

ReelBigLizard posted:

I have presonaly paked the parcel and I delete each ordered part from the lists when I packs, therefore, that actually is impossible.

spandexcajun posted:

Oh man, two DRZ400s popped up on craigslist in the last day, both 06's with 2000 / 4000 miles, both single owners. Around $3000 - $3200. I have also been eye'ing a WR450 that has been converted on craigslist for the last two months. I told myself I would get a sumo / dirtbike next spring but these are the best prices I have seen ever. Good thing I am out of town until Friday, I have some time to think rationality about things.

How easy / cheap is it to put dirt tires on a DRZ400, and is there anything else you would need for a offroad conversion? Nothing crazy, just fireroads or 4x4 truck roads. Is it reasonable to have a second set of wheels / tires and expect to convert to a dirtbike for weekends? FWIW I already have a sv650 I love, just want a second bike for bumming around the frontrange of Colorado and maybe getting my son a matching dirtbike sometime as well.

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Literally the worst motorcycle accessory ever created

JP Money posted:

I'd also suggest a front fender if you can fit one on somehow. I couldn't place why it looked so ridiculous but then I realized it was the sportbike type fender. Also, that subframe looks kind of strange from that pic. It looks like he removed panels or something, I can't tell from that pic. Make sure the old one is straight if you want to include that in the deal. Actually it doesn't even look like it has a fender on it? Can you post the CL ad? I promise I won't snipe it out from under you or something crazy, PM me if you want it kept private.

Resource posted:

More Edit: Do I need to use a lift for the DRZ or is there some way to use just a rear stand...
This would be for the impending chain/sprocket replacement work. I feel like I know nothing.

Also DID chains seemed popular, and I think I'll go with the Sunstar or Driven sprockets. Hard to find a steel 38 rear, which I think is the way to go for a little better highway riding... 15/38

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Pilot powers. The 150s are cheap, and they stick like mad.

I just put some on my DRZ and they're great. All said and done I did two pilot powers, tubes and install for like $250

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

spandexcajun posted:

Had just under 3000 miles.

So, I am called to craigslist once again and this time he is not a bitch.

http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/3231827868.html

This looks like pretty much the bike for me, heavaly modified bigbore fancy carbed DRZ400 for a reasonable price. Also close by, might give the guy a call and see if I can look this afternoon. My questions is, is such a modified DRZ now just a ticking timebomb or still pretty reliable?

spandexcajun posted:

"My bike exploded"

Got word back on the WR450. Main bearing is toast, the lower end is gone. Piston is toast, so the topend is done! Lucky me I get a whole engine rebuild. Headwork, new valves (maybe all 5) New piston, ring, rod, etc... hone cylinder walls, some other stuff and a shitload of labor.

Costing more then 50% what I payed for the bike. Looking on the bright side, I will have a brand new engine to abuse and not worry about.... still paying less then a new WR would have cost.

I knew the job was dangerous when I took it, but i wish I would have had a year or so before this happened. I'll try to stop buy the shop and take some pics of the failed parts if I have time in the next day or so.