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iwentdoodie posted:Alright, two questions. If the used bike market is that crazy then as long as you don't wreck it you'll be able to sell it on for close to the same money when you're leaving. Think of it as long term rental with a big deposit.
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Oct 9, 2012 21:46
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These look interesting, i'm financially moribund at the moment but these are on my long term shopping list for the DRZ. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/972833-wide-ratio-gears-but-no-six-speed/page__hl__wide%20ratio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5VyQMO9_aU
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Oct 13, 2012 12:55
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Orange Someone posted:I'll ask Yours is a plated E so it has a bit more poke than a standard sm. The best thing for her to do is drag the rear brake a bit and modulate the clutch when pulling off, keeping the throttle steady, a big twist on the FCR sprays a shot of petrol from the accelerator pump so sudden throttle inputs can be unpredictable for someone that's used to CV carbs or FI. That and scooch up to the front of the bike Once she's done it a couple times she'll get the feel for the clutches biting point and it'll just be another bike to ride. edit: I prefer to clutch up my drz in first and second, i find doing it on the throttle means you end up going pretty fast before you realise it In third it comes up on the throttle nice and gently with a little bit of a bounce on the bars. echomadman fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 00:22
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Ohmigawd, wheelies! so what was the deal with your bike making GBS threads out all its oil after you got it back?
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Dec 19, 2012 22:42
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After having the big bore done, the DRZ is a wheelie monster. It was ok before -1 up front, but now it wants to see the sky. So much fun, wtf have I done!?!
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Snagged this http://www.ebay.com/itm/360488274110 make sure you have the right banjo bolt for it, I did a Brembo MC swap one day and realised too late the original bolt was a different thread and had no way to get one locally.
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Jan 2, 2013 05:26
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I'm selling a gel seat for a DRZ in the BST thread. Feel free to take a peek and let me know if you're interested. No one will be interested, As far as I know loads of us already have one thrown in the garage gathering dust. worst gel seat ever. Sorry to spoil your sale but friends don't let friends buy OEM DRZ gel seats
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Jan 4, 2013 21:53
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That seems expensive for a high enough mileage bike that's very likely to have been thrashed regularly but looking at other ads on that site it looks like bikes are just pretty expensive in australia. As long as all the work he had done was done properly it'll probably be fine though, the Keihin carb and spare tyres are a bonus too. It'll be a far better bike than a drz especially as its been resprung, more powerful, better brakes, better everything. downside is a more expensive maintenance schedule and more expensive spare parts. I want to put a low mudgaurd like that on my drz, the spray in the rain is ridiculous.
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Jan 20, 2013 03:27
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well, I drive a GT500 with no mufflers, and my last bike was a Buell with a Jardine, so noise isn't an issue...So you guys recommend the Pilot Powers over the Distanzia even though I will go on some dirt roads? Also, which Pilot Power? dry dirt roads will be fine in pilot powers, wet muddy roads or wet grass will not be from my personal experience of them, they're also pretty poo poo on wet sandy beaches. They are brilliant on tarmac though and wear really well, I have a 2CT front and a regular PP rear on my drz.
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Jan 22, 2013 02:11
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Excellent guys, thanks. I'll definitely look into all three of those choices (Pilot Power/Contiforce/Conti Attack) before spring rolls around. As far as the exhaust goes, I guess the noise is up to personal preference so I'll check out maybe some YouTube videos and compare. Youtube vids rarely convey the bass laden ignorance of loud exhausts. try to hear them in person if at all possible. My DRZ has a full yoshimura rs2 that the PO in his infinite stupidity decided to cut 6 inches off of. Here's a vid of it being dyno'd its even louder and more annoying in person. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJoX_ILhqzM
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Jan 22, 2013 05:12
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I have an FCR and Hot Cams to go into my DRZ, I just need an accelerator pump o-ring and a drz specific needle and jet kit, and money. The PO of my bike was a retard, young guy still on a restricted license, he was riding it with a restrictor plate between the carb and intake but with a huge main jet and the aforementioned butchered endcan. I didn't find out about the can being stubbied till we drove down to get it, in the for sale ads it was still full length. Taking out the restrictor plate, doing the solenoid and emissions delete, putting in the right main jet and doing the 3x3 mod made a huge difference to the power. It dynoed at 37 bhp at the wheel as it is now. with the fcr and cams it should go up to the low 40s.
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Jan 24, 2013 21:48
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JP Money posted:So, now that I have cash I'm looking again at the bored out DRZ pictured below. I got some more info on it and it seems the bike isn't clapped out or a scam (won't know until I go take a look). Who did the upgrade work and are you getting all the stock bits with it? 4000 would be a good price (to me i'm in a different country) if you did, that way if the big bore did let go you could put it back to stock cheaply
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Feb 4, 2013 17:06
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I think i posted these a while ago, but I heard today that for some reason the australian police hate fun and have taken my buddies bikes away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FhmQk5iOUI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPZm_wndh70 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pkdGuCXRx0
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Feb 17, 2013 16:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Took them away because of those videos? Or because of some non-related event? not for the videos specifically, but for the constant dong-like riding I guess, he was always a big believer in reducing front wheel wear as much as possible. before he emigrated he was well known to our local constabulary as well.
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Feb 17, 2013 17:34
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:my loud pipe saves my life every day Some days I long for a quiet bike. both my SV and DRZ are super loud ignorant, also the sv blows smoke on hard launches. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpJ1ziu_U4w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpJ1ziu_U4w Driving though tunnels makes up for it though.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:27
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JP Money posted:That's disappointing. Wheeling Cycle has them for 85 bucks. I don't know about all that. Especially since the Edge lights themselves are less than half that price. Tough call but I might just find some less ugly turn signals and deal with it. If you can get over the looks the stockers are the best indicators for the drz unless you spend big money on aftermarket ones. cheap ones just vibrate apart or break when you drop the bike.
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Mar 11, 2013 17:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Always never not be buying supermotos! You cant put a price tag on freedom
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Mar 17, 2013 19:13
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AkrisD posted:Anyone know how I can quiet down my exhaust? I have a ProCircuit T4 and it's way too obnoxious most times. I got the stock exhaust when I bought the bike, but I don't really have to space to break things down and mess with the jetting right now. If you cant find a specific insert for your exhaustyou can probably use a generic one from ebay. I just put an aftermarket baffle into my cut down Yosh RS2 end can (previous owner was a retard and cut it). its quietened it down a good bit at idle and low rpms.
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Mar 26, 2013 17:02
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:A perfectly cromulent word It embiggens the noise reduction satisfactorily. quote:http://www.thefreedictionary.com/quietened
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Mar 26, 2013 17:34
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I've been left stranded by more tubeless tires than tubes tires. We can quote anecdotal evidence all day, but the above poster is right. Putting two wheels worth of spokes into situations they weren't meant for creates a jillion points of failure. If you have a plug kit a repair on a tubeless tyre is a 5 minute job, sure you can patch a tube too but gently caress that. That 3M tape looks like a much better solution than individually blobbing each spoke with silicone, and if you put a small circular sticker over each spoke you can still adjust their tension without compromising the seal. Having done 2 tyre changes and 1 tube change due to a puncture on my DRZ since I got it I loving hate tubes. On my SV I run ultraseal in the tyres and just forget all about punctures. I cant recommend that poo poo enough, I personally saw one of my friends tyres that he'd run down to the cords still hold pressure perfectly until we changed it and found 3 nails in it.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:48
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xd posted:Is ultraseal like this stuff? similar effect but its a liquid you pump in through the valve stem, that stuff seems to be baked on. Here is an awesomely cheesy ad for it. it looks like a gimmick but i've used it for years now. A bike tyre only takes about 100~200ml iirc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XZ_pjnsmEU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XZ_pjnsmEU
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Apr 21, 2013 04:00
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone have any experience having a local dealer true spoked wheels? The rear rim on my DRZ is out of alignment with the hub, and you can see it wobbling on the bike. I honestly dont think its bent, just untrue. I tend to not trust local dealer mechanics, but dont really know where else to go? I have never trued a spoked wheel, and dont really feel like starting with the DRZ how often do you check/tighten your spokes? I check mine every time I oil the chain, three's usually one or two that're a bit dull when tapped with a small spanner. I try to tune them all to match the hghest pitch one as well as my ear can manage. I must check the runout on my rim now that you've brought it up.
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May 2, 2013 02:07
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stevobob posted:Do you do it with wheels on the ground when you do this? It probably doesn't matter but I figured I should ask, I should look at that too because I have a bit of a wobble. I put it up an a beer crate to do any work on it so both wheels are in the air.
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May 2, 2013 02:14
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I think the lack of a cush drive really pounds the drz rear wheel, especially with sticky rubber. the spokes are under a lot of strain.
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May 2, 2013 02:22
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:My 2 cents is while the DRZ is great for bigger guys, the power is lacking (compared to my 675) and the weight is really high up on the bike. However, I just bought it yesterday and dropped it at low speed today and there were no tears. I just picked it right up, waited half an hour (something had flooded I guess) and it was as if it never happened. It's gonna be the bike I learn to hoon on without worrying about breaking it too much. If the PO didnt already do it its worth taking a file or otherwise sanding down the back of the gear shift pedal, its ridiculously sharp and can puncture the engine casing in a fall if it gets hit the right way. Case protectors are a cheap way to get peace of mind about dropping the bike too. http://www.zenoverland.com/bikebits/cfc_offroad_drz.html
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May 16, 2013 12:16
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Niven posted:I'm in a situation where I might be able to replace my '09 DRZ with an '07 SXV 550 with 5000km for very little money out of pocket. 
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May 18, 2013 23:29
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Thinking of mounting up a low front mudguard(fender) on my DRZ. The stock one is almost useless, causes drag and makes it unstable at high speeds. I have an Acerbis supermoto fender too but its even shorter and worse in actually fending off the spray. it does allow much better airflow to the rads and causes less drag and front end stability issues. A friend had a mudguard from a zx6 lying around from an older project so i laid it up to see how it'd look. I think i'll give it a go. it'll need a small bit of fettling to make it fit up square and clear the fork tubes properly.   
echomadman fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 21:20
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Z3n posted:I could clutch up the DRZ in 3rd just barely if I wanted it bad enough in SM trim. My DRZ is +3 on the back sprocket and happily clutches up in 3rd. When I fit the fcr and intake cams i'll go back to stock gearing or even gear it down a bit for less frantic highway cruising.
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Jun 3, 2013 20:10
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JP Money posted:It can do them but the point he's making is that bikes with bigger rotors and much stronger Brembo calipers have an easier go of it. DRZ's are somewhat heavier and you run out of front suspension travel pretty quick if you jam on the front. That combined with so-so brakes means that it's not as easy as grabbing a lever with 1 finger on a bike with brembo calipers and a radial master. That is absolutely not what he said
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Jun 21, 2013 01:32
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Retarded derails and deluded humblebragging aside. Has anyone done much to improve the ergos of their DRZ? I find the bars a small bit too low to ride standing up for long periods. I'm 6'0'' but I have a long back and a short inseam. can anyone recommend some bar risers or even just a better position for the handlebars to make it a bit more comfortable. edit Jim Silly-Balls posted:Please leave this thread He bought an FZ1 as a first bike and has nevereven broken the speed limit, there's no reasoning with him regarding the use of all the capabilities of a motorcycle (or even a tiny fraction of them) echomadman fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jun 21, 2013 |
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Jun 21, 2013 17:20
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The rose-colored glasses I have from currently riding it on the highway all the time? I'm not looking back at a bike I owned 5 years ago that I've forgotten all about. The DRZ is fine on the highway. Its revving, but its not banging off the rev-limiter. The thing can sit at redline all day and be fine, and you're not even close to redline on the highway (remember the DRZ can do over 100mph if you're patient enough). You could also make the argument that the WR250 is a good highway cruiser since it has a 6th gear, but thats not all there is to being a good highway bike I have to agree with this My SM is +3 on the back and its still fine up to 90mph, tops out now at about 95. JP Money posted:Agreed with this. Buying a DRZ (or almost any supermoto really) with a long commute in mind is almost setting yourself up to be unhappy and sell it. You can absolutely gear it down so that it'll top out at 95-100 but even then 80 is still higher in the revs than you want to be cruising at imo and it's not super fast at getting there (but also not that slow). how is 18 miles a long commute? 18 miles is 15 minutes at those speeds, if you cant handle the lack of luxury for that long then supermotos aren't for you. You actually cant hit the rev limiter of the drz in top gear without a cam and carb swap anyway JP Money posted:Yeah, you just unbolt it under the fender and on the passenger peg and then bolt in the new one. The RS2 is one of the better pipes as far as making more power goes but is not the quietest one by a longshot. The FMF quiet core would be what I would look at but they don't do anything for power from what I've seen. Might as well go back to stock since the pipes are so cheap they're practically free imo. You could sell the RS2 slip on for a decent chunk of change if you do decide you like the stock one. Three's a bit more to it than that, if you change back to stock you'll have to rejet the carb for sure. If you change to a different aftermarket can you might get away with not rejetting it but be prepared for the power curve to change noticeably, I can feel the difference in power in my RS2 with the baffle out and with it in, with it in there is a distinct drop off in top end power. echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 22:52
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JP Money posted:18 miles is a longer commute than anyone I've met with a supermoto personally. That's a lot longer than I would wager most people with a supermoto commute but it's not like I was saying it was impossible. It's just not the most ideal bike for the situation. without serious power mods gearing the drz down that far is pointless i think, it cant flow enough air to rev out in top gear and it ruins the low end.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:38
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JP Money posted:I misspoke. When I say 1 up, I meant from a 14 to 15 tooth stock. I'm not THAT far geared down. I personally don't like holding bikes open for long periods of time nearing the top of the rev range. Even less so on a big single. You said 1 up on the front and 2 down on the back, that's the gearing I was saying is too low, that's the same as going down 5 on the back. are you just running the 2 down on the back now? I enjoy the +3 on the rear so much that I don't care about the slightly higher revs. With that gearing and the stock carb +dynojet jet kit, 3x3, full Yosh RS2 and some emission equipment deletes I can still pull 95 no problem and it gets there faster than stock. i can power up wheelies in third with a good pull on the bars and clutch ups are a doddle in third.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:59
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Ephphatha posted:Also a set of sliders would be a good idea to limit damage if/when I drop it. Get a set of case savers and some axle sliders, and file/sand the back of the gear shifter as its really sharp from the factory and will punch a hole in your case in a fall. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRZ400-and-KLX400-Engine-Case-Guards-/281028595452 Ephphatha posted:This bike also only comes with an electric start option, is it possible to buy and fit a kickstarter just in case I kill the battery one day? Its possible, you can order the parts from the drz-400k model, but I dont really think its worth the cost, better off spending the money on a better carb
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Aug 14, 2013 01:39
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:took some photos of my sex machine last night Needs more Rimtape, other than that, hot bike.
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Aug 31, 2013 13:20
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i found this video to be the best when i was practising clutch ups on my drz. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNQC_amZRJg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNQC_amZRJg
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Oct 4, 2013 17:51
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Tunnels are a great place to check your newly bought sumos vocal range. I suck at filming things while driving, also phone microphones suck, it sounded way more hilarious in person. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsfP8sBySLA
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Oct 12, 2013 21:16
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MetaJew posted:So I went to Cycle Gear yesterday to pick up a $30 Track Side front stand. It turns out that the stand is too narrow and could barely fit around my front tire, and it couldn't safely lift the front end. I returned the stand, but now I'm not sure what to buy. I imagine there is a compatible Pit Bull front stand, that would be better. Why would you use paddock stands on a supermoto? all you need is a beer crate, or one of those lift things if you absolutely have to buy something.
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Nov 25, 2013 02:19
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Sherlock Holmes is hooning on a DRZ in the new BBC Sherlock episode, some sort of I4 DRZ by the engine foley, my immersion is ruined.
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Jan 1, 2014 22:52
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Any Australian goons in the Perth/WA area looking to buy a sumo, my mate is selling his Husky quote:its 2011, 16k on the clock,good condition, bottom end rebuilt by k-tec. has frame , fork, swingarm sliders, hand guards, barrett cans, supersprox and chain,good tyres join https://www.facebook.com/groups/supermotowa/ to message him caveat, its been 'hooned' to the point that the police took it off him for 6 months, but he's always taken good care of his bikes mechanically. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPZm_wndh70 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FhmQk5iOUI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pkdGuCXRx0 echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 19:55
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 20:58 |
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Incursus posted:Found a buyer for my car so I'll be moving onto the next project soon. I'm thinking I'll do something incredibly impractical to do a title conversion on. I live in Indiana so it's laughably easy to get anything road legal. I'm thinking CR250, RM250, CRF450X, WR450, etc. Really wanna do a two stroke just because I can. My question is, if I take it to a very Liberal state such as Cali, NY, NJ, etc, will it still be legal? I have heard mixed opinions. Anyone with personal experience? If you can plate any bike easily the only sensible answer is a CR500AF sumo.
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Jan 18, 2014 13:26
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