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Magic Hate Ball posted:What do you use china balls for? The only lighting I've ever done was with a couple desk lamps and some wax paper. China balls are good sources of soft lighting. Really good for people's faces.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2009 13:02 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:00 |
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EnsGDT posted:Can anyone think of examples of work done where the camera is in a fish tank on a water line and it floats back and forth between the two, sort of like this: Yeah, the Omaha Beach sequence from "Saving Private Ryan".
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2011 03:47 |
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Slim Pickens posted:Any recommendations on shotgun microphones for a student? I guess I'm looking for something cheap, flexible and good quality. My camera's an XH A1 and has XLR ports as well as regular TRS mic inputs, so my options are pretty wide in that aspect. Something that can go between boom pole and camera mount would be handy as well, but I don't think most shotgun mics would complicate that. What's your budget? You could go with a Rode NTG-1 or a Rode Videomic if your budget is less than $300.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2011 23:36 |
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Slim Pickens posted:I was hoping for something a little less than that. The equipment cage has decent audio equipment, but I was just looking to become somewhat independent of that process until farther down the line. They only give out shure sm58's for first year students, and it's one day rental only. The Rode Videomic is about $185, but that's not including shipping or sales tax. You could go lower by going with Azden. But holy poo poo, only SM58s for first years? That's ridiculous. Rode Videomic Booming kit @ B&H Where will the majority of filming be? If it's outside: shotguns. If it's inside: hypercardioid condensers. I've heard these CAD CM217s are pretty decent for indoor dialogue recording on the cheap.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2011 05:24 |
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Slim Pickens posted:Why hypercardioid instead of a plain cardioid? Just for a slight bit of ambiance? I can't imagine the sound of the ceiling being particularly interesting otherwise. Because C2V on DVXUser can explain it better than me, I'll just copy and paste his explanation: C2V on DVXUser posted:Shotgun mics reject almost everything that's off-axis. The one thing they cannot ignore, even from the sides, is bass spectrum. As that bounces around the room, it will muddy up the sound (whether the mic is next to the ceiling or not). Shotguns also have a small, narrow lobe of acceptance at 180º (to the rear of the element). This pulls in direct reflections that clog the signal and make everything sound hollow and "bathroomy" in highly reflective rooms. Basically, the same interference tube design that makes it reject so well outdoors is what pulls in too many acoustic problems indoors. quote:Anyways, it'll probably be a mix of indoor and outdoor. I think a regular cardioid shotgun would work for most of what I want. That MXL looks fine, so go ahead, though I would still find something not-a-shotgun to use for interiors.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2011 06:05 |
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powderific posted:In that vein, can someone recommend a budget not-shotgun for indoors? Right now we have an ME66/K6 combo as our main mic, with a Studio Projects B1 large diaphram condenser for VO work. Almost all of our work is indoors and most of that is in highly reflective environments. I don't need it to be self powered like the ME66/K6--we just got a fantastic deal on that combo. What's the budget? You could go for an Oktava MK-12 hypercardioid condenser if you got roughly $300 bucks to spend. If you want really budget, the link I posted to the CAD CM12s or whatever I hear are decent for indoor work.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2011 23:51 |
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powderific posted:I've looked at those Oktava's before, but the reviews suggested they were super sensitive to handling noise and tricky to use on a boom. Any personal experience with em? I've never handled them personally, though I would think that as long as you have it on a shock mount with a windshield, it should be fine. You could go the route I did and get a Rode NT3, but that thing... loving christ, booming that poo poo is a nightmare.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2011 23:27 |
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SquareDog posted:Well like I said the highlights turn green right before they blow out What lens are you using? That could be chromatic aberration coming from the lens rather than the sensor.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2011 02:34 |
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exponentory posted:Indeed! Here's at the same place on another day that my friend took: http://i.imgur.com/ObGnh.jpg Looks like a Hawk V Series anamorphic, I would guess 250mm.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2011 05:04 |
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Moon Potato posted:Another interesting wrinkle in the digital cinema camera field: Huh, I guess that's where the stolen REDs went.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2011 19:54 |
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Wow, what kind of rig (EVF and rail system) is that? I might put some money to a system like that.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2013 21:41 |
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Slim Pickens posted:A friend posted this on facebook. Fuckin' OUCH. I hope they have insurance.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2014 23:30 |
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the_lion posted:Just curious, what stuff do you guys use to project gobos/fake light shapes? ETC Source4 Lekos/ellipsoidals since I work in a performing arts venue, though I've also used Dedolights on a few film sets.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2014 23:51 |
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FreudianSlippers posted:An actor I've worked with who does a lot amateur and student films is basically starting to hate pizza because on almost every set he'd been on for months the only food had been pizza. That is absolutely horrible. Pizza should never be served on sets. In fact, it's considered a meal penealty on union shows.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2014 02:20 |
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I mostly just wanted to post that picture because holy poo poo that picture. new favorite website: http://shittyrigs.com Quite a few of my friends have pictures on ShittyRigs.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2014 00:15 |
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I'll also recommend the T3i, nice little camera that shoots good images. If you have the know-how, you can buy old cheap theater fresnels and refurbish them for film use.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2014 21:07 |
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Slim Pickens posted:https://vimeo.com/111403592 I know quite a few guys like that.
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2014 22:34 |
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RIP Haskell Wexler RIP Vilmos Zsigmond Dammit, two great cinematographers a week apart from each other. I didn't get a chance to meet Haskell but I got to meet Vilmos last year at the ASC Clubhouse because one of my cinematography professors introduced me to him. He was such a kind and soft spoken man.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2016 20:45 |
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SpiritOfSanDimas posted:1) Do you have a microphone recommendation for shooting documentaries? Cheap side? Probably a Rode NTG-2 or NTG-3. Don't bother with Azden shotgun mics, they're terrible. And don't bother with the Audio Technica AT-897, low output and noisy. SpiritOfSanDimas posted:2) How big an improvement is the preamp on an H1 / H4n vs plugging right into the 5D? I use a shoulder rig but I really dont want to have to carry around another piece of equipment if I dont have to. The preamps in the 5D suck pretty bad, almost anything else is going to be an improvement. You can always keep a Zoom recorder in your pocket so it wouldn't be too much more to carry.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2016 02:04 |
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melon cat posted:A lighting question. I'm being cheap, and want to use china balls/paper lanterns for my lighting (thanks to forum user Armagnac for suggesting this). Router speed control
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2016 19:20 |
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melon cat posted:I was thinking of getting the Sony a6300 for this reason. But then I watched this video and I'm nearly convinced that I'd be better off getting a C100. I've run into overheating issue with Sony DSLRs, and dislike the fact that I can't really record continuously without having the camera turn itself off. Here's an article about using the a6300 with the Atomos Shogun. Don't know if it's a great counter to getting a C100, but depending on what you're planning on shooting and the budget you have for purchasing equipment, you might want to hold off on buying a C100. EDIT: Also in other news, Sigma just entered the game with their new Cine Lens line. If they end up being cheaper than Rokinon's Xeen line, I might just have to buy myself the prime set. VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Sep 8, 2016 |
# ¿ Sep 8, 2016 18:51 |
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A friend of mine shot with the UM4.6 recently and he liked it quite a bit. He shot a night interior at 400 ISO and it looked pretty good. I personally haven't shot with it but I've been doing research since it's one of the cameras I've been thinking about buying as an owner-operator and the majority of information I've gathered is this: -It's not a low light camera, exposure tests I've seen where if you have a properly exposed gray card, it's actually a stop under, so expose to the right -It's good to shoot between 200-800 ISO but 1600 is possibly unusable, though the new 4.2 firmware adds black shading and I've heard it improves 1600 a lot -The dynamic range is actually quite a bit narrower than the 15 stops Blackmagic Design advertises (which is pretty standard) -Still has problems with fixed pattern noise, though firmware 4.2 supposedly cleans a lot of this; black shading in 4.2 also helps get rid of blue channel noise in underexposed areas in 1600 ISO -The sensor has weird issues with lenses that aren't telecentric, which causes uneven magenta patches in the corners (and I've heard in the center of the image also); units with later serial numbers apparently don't suffer as much from this as early units -There's an issue with the manner of how images are debayered, causing a crosshatch pattern. Apparently it happens in camera when shooting ProRes, but if you import RAW footage into Resolve, it doesn't have the crosshatch issue (though it apparently happens if you import RAW footage into other programs like Premiere CC, FCPX) -Audio preamps are pretty crappy, low SNR Uh, this is the main stuff I think. There might be something I'm forgetting but this is the main issues that have been brought up. VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jan 22, 2017 |
# ¿ Jan 22, 2017 07:29 |
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Not the cheapest but B&H's house brand Impact has great C-stands since they're just rebranded Avenger stands.
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2017 20:30 |
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Just keep on the look out for rental houses that are going out of business. They'll do a fire sale of all their equipment and you can buy whatever for pretty good prices.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2017 07:01 |
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keyframe posted:Another question if you guys don't mind. I just picked up a used 7" BM assist 4k monitor/recorder. Looking for a good magic arm to mount it on. Any brand recommendations? Don't want to get something lovely and have the monitor wobble/fall off. The gold standard is Noga, though I've heard really good things about Bright Tangerine's Titan Arm.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2017 00:41 |
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It's probably not a new camera, it's probably the 4.6k turret for the Ursa Major.
VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Mar 2, 2017 |
# ¿ Mar 2, 2017 05:05 |
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Holy poo poo, spank my rear end and call me Deakins.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2017 22:05 |
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keyframe posted:Mine shipped just now! Let us know how the Ursa Mini Pro turns out. (especially me because I'm thinking about buying one)
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 07:45 |
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Any issues with fixed pattern noise?
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2017 06:59 |
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Hey powder and keyframe, any further words about the Ursa Mini Pro since you guys have had it for like 2 months now?
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# ¿ May 23, 2017 01:47 |
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BonoMan posted:We love ours. That is all! Seriously it's pretty. We have some ongoing projects we've shot with it that are pretty sweet. I'll post them once complete (they're kinda boring University stuff but they show it off pretty well). Yeah, I got to play with it at NAB last month and I really liked the controls and the image quality. It's definitely pushed me towards getting one myself, but I'm really trying to make sure that the investment is really going to be worth (and not give me FPN or magenta headaches) and that I actually have the money for it if I do end up buying a set of Sigma cinema primes.
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# ¿ May 23, 2017 04:28 |
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keyframe posted:Quite enjoying mine as well. I ended up buying the blackmagic EVF which made shooting handheld and out in the sun a much more enjoyable thing. I'm used to lifting F65s and Alexas so the UMP isn't a problem.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2017 22:21 |
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keyframe posted:Guys can I get some lighting gear advice to buy/rent What's your budget for purchases?
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2017 02:41 |
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keyframe posted:1000-1500$ for lighting. You can either buy a bunch of used tungsten units, or buy a few of the new cheaper slightly questionable LED units like Dracast.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2017 23:32 |
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Frogfingers posted:Just go down to a hardware/auto store and get some LED worklights, even if its just to trial them and make sure there's no strobing. Always test just how cheap you can get away with. Before you go out and do this, keyframe, I'll put in my two cents on this: most consumer LED worklights and LED bulbs aren't really designed with a high enough frequency to prevent strobing or pulsing, or designed for accurate color rendition, so be wary of going this route. I've done it before for lighting narrative shorts and I regretted the decision because I got a poo poo ton of pulsing in the form of a slow rolling bar moving vertically in my shots, and the color for the tungsten bulbs I was using were awful. It might be different now but I would at least be wary of that. Another thing I would warn against going with the really cheap route is the fact that keyframe stated he was going to be getting the equipment for real estate promo videos. If there's anything that kills your career in corporate video, it's looking massively unprofessional on set in front of your clients.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2017 08:14 |
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powderific posted:Got a new Ursa Mini Pro from Blackmagic after sending ours in for FPN and this camera doesn't seem much different in that regard to me. With my sample size of 2 I feel like 1600 ISO isn't super useable. It sucks because the non-fixed pattern noise is totally fine. Yeah, getting one without FPN is a bit of a crap shoot. The new black shading thing doesn't really help since I don't think it's meant to help with FPN but with equalizing the signals between the RGB channels.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2017 00:35 |
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the_lion posted:Everyone keeps telling me that the blackmagic pocket camera is really good. I saw Matt Scott said he cut stuff with other, more expensive cameras and it still held up. While I've never used it, by and large it's pretty similar to the Pocket, which gives pretty fantastic images. It seems that BMD designed it to be a better version of the Pocket since it addresses some of the bigger complaints about the Pocket, like the form factor and battery. I think the best thing you're buying with BM cameras is their color science, absolutely wonderful stuff unlike RED where their color science doesn't match their sensor.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2017 17:50 |
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The issue with Slog is that what Sony tells you is the ISO is complete bullshit. We did camera tests over at my school with the F5 with raw and we found that despite the 'native' ISO of 2000, it's really more around 800-1250.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2017 21:25 |
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keyframe posted:On the A7S2 it disables any iso setting below 1600 iso when shooting slog. Meter for 800 then. At least when you work in raw, changing the ISO doesn't do anything except change the monitor output.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2017 19:34 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:00 |
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I got to play around with a Canon C700 today... uh, wow, that is an amazing camera.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2017 02:11 |