|
Ensign Expendable posted:Very nice looking IS. Which one of the series is it? It looks a bit too bright compared to the camo paint of Soviet tanks. I don't like vinyl tracks all that much either, but they don't look too bad. Looks like an IS-3, is it the Roden one?
|
# ¿ Jul 9, 2011 20:39 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:57 |
|
Le0 posted:I wanted to ask you guys a question, I don't do any modelling (I love seeing stuff you make tho), but I'm currently working on a map for the Red Orchestra 2 game (ww2 east front FPS for those of you who don't know it). http://www.dragonusaonline.com/ Most of the dragon kits have a large set of detailed pictures of the kits. The pictures themselves are taken from a 3d modeling program so this is probably your best bet.
|
# ¿ Feb 7, 2012 22:30 |
|
Artesania Latina's kits are pretty straightforward from the only two wooden ships I've built both being made by them. That's honestly not a bad one to start with to see if you enjoy building wooden ship models. I couldn't since whenever I put the planks on the hull all the wood would split or wouldn't bend properly and it'd look terrible but hopefully you'll do much better than I did.
|
# ¿ Jun 16, 2012 05:20 |
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Ah, so that's what the Orange Line is. Makes sense, you have to use the worn molds somehow. Oddly enough the IS2 I built from this line was the only kit where the magic tracks worked like they were supposed to.
|
# ¿ Jan 10, 2013 00:24 |
|
Not only destroyers!. Several pre- ww1 Deutschland class battleships were in the kriegsmarine for training and light combat duties. All were sunk by the end of 1944 but this one sunk in such shallow waters that its crew were able to use its guns to defend the port they had sunk in from the soviets. The soviets after the war refloated her and used it as a target ship.
|
# ¿ Jul 9, 2013 23:53 |
|
Getting liquid masking or a white elmers glue that doesn't dry into a brittle scab over the deck and cover what you don't want painted, overlapping a bit of what you do. Then when it dries, take an exacto-knife and a ruler and gently trim the glue off of where you'll be painting. When the paint dries use water to help you peel the rest of it off. Raskolnikov38 fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ¿ Jul 15, 2013 00:42 |
|
Ensign Expendable posted:drat, really? Maybe I should go check it out. Check your local paper for michael's ads on Sundays. They love throwing a 40 or 50% off one item coupon in there nearly every week. I use to use it for buying a box of like 30 motors back when I did modal rocketry.
|
# ¿ Sep 3, 2013 01:01 |
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Does anybody here use Hobby Lobby? Just FYI they are not fond of Jews. Or women having control over their own bodies. I would assume not, the one time I went into a hobby lobby it was nothing but crafts for old people to do while waiting to die. I don't even think they had a revell snap kit to buy.
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2013 18:16 |
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Dragon T-34 model 1940. The box calls it "T-34/76 Mod. 1940", which is wrong on several extremely minor and spergy levels. Yeah dragon kits are lacking in interior details which is weird because they don't also sell interiors as add on kits which would make them more money. On mine I'll leave the commander hatch open only and then cram a figurine half in/half out to hide the lack of details inside.
|
# ¿ Oct 13, 2013 07:52 |
|
I got an airbrush about a month ago and finally finished up a dragon 1:35 Panther G to use it on. I'm kicking myself for not getting one earlier, the paint looks loads better and it's way easier than working with a brush. I just have to remember to keep a dust mask on when using the cleaner.
|
# ¿ Nov 28, 2013 05:59 |
|
drat those look amazing, what machine/tools are they made with?
|
# ¿ Dec 30, 2013 19:39 |
|
Quad posted:Ok, I quit smoking, so I bought a model pirate ship to put together. Whats the material under the paint, plastic or wood? Also shouldn't an acrylic come off with rubbing and water/iso if on plastic? What are you using as a thinner?
|
# ¿ Jan 31, 2014 20:57 |
|
Quad posted:It's plastic, it's a Revell 1:198 USS Constitution. I bought Model Masters Dried Paint Solvent, it looked like the only type of that thing at my Hobby Lobby. You're saying I could/should've tried rubbing alcohol first? You can sand it but it'll scratch the plastic underneath so solvents are the best way to go. And yes from some quick googling and a test on the bottom of my only tank painted in acrylics, 70% iso with rubbing via paper towel or toothbrush will remove it without damaging the plastic under it. Unless you're using lacquers you don't need to buy fancy paint stripper from the paint manufacturer, water/iso/(LOW CONCENTRATIONS OF)acetone from a supermarket will remove most if not all common non-lacquers. Do however buy the manufacturer's thinner for thinning enamels since those can be finicky.
|
# ¿ Jan 31, 2014 22:30 |
|
Soviet tank models tend to be easier to build IMO (probably because they're not models of over engineered disasters). Also for Dragon kits unless they specifically note to not glue parts together, glue the parts together.
|
# ¿ Feb 1, 2014 01:14 |
|
Well to be fair it wasn't so much threw an idler as it was lost one to a fuckoff large anti-tank grenade.
|
# ¿ Feb 6, 2014 01:11 |
|
Seeing MIG pigments like 'Kursk Mud' 'Caucasian Mud' and others worries me that someday I'm going to become spergy enough to want to match loving mud.
|
# ¿ Feb 12, 2014 22:32 |
|
YF19pilot posted:I just picked up the Airfix 1/72 F-5A 'starter kit'. I figured it to be something to get restarted with, and also to help decorate my cubicle at my new job. Only problem is, the decals are in Imperial Iranian Air Force colors, which, while it'd be fun, may not be the most tactful thing on my desk at my new job. What's a good place to pick up some USAF decals? If they are the imperial roundels you can just explain its from when we liked Iran and were buddies with the Shah. Side note: can someone link me to that goon made paint app.
|
# ¿ Mar 1, 2014 04:51 |
|
RillAkBea posted:I'm in Japan so the Tamiya kits are a lot cheaper compared to the Dragon kits here. Model accuracy aside though, dragon instructions are only 80-90% accurate. They're also next to no help at all for painting instructions compared to the Tamiya play-by-play. Honestly to me that's half the fun of Dragon kits. I enjoy a challenge rather than the put glue into the box and shake kits as someone above described Tamiya. Tamiya however has figured out how to not make track links an absolute pain in the rear end so they've got that going for them.
|
# ¿ Mar 13, 2014 17:29 |
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Even better than Fruilmodel? Those are the $40 metal ones right?
|
# ¿ Mar 14, 2014 00:56 |
|
From wikipedia but at least Utah beach was apparently only waist deep for the first 100 or so meters out.
|
# ¿ Apr 11, 2014 18:00 |
|
My worst instruction error so far was a dragon kit that had me make half a dozen tiny metal things and then didn't show where they went at all.
|
# ¿ May 4, 2014 04:59 |
|
Slugworth posted:Finished my StuG IV assembly, and find myself with absolutely no desire to paint it. I didn't paint the model I did before this one, because (or so I told myself) it was 1:48 scale, and too small for my first paint job. As it turns out, I may just have no desire to paint models despite enjoying building them. Am I alone on this one? In my experience, since many ww2 tanks use the same parts, ie the panzer 4 with the STUG 4 and Hummel, those sprues with extra parts are also used in another kit where the parts you used are marked don't use. Painting seems to be something you eventually grow to like. I use to only like building the models and now I own an airbrush .
|
# ¿ May 7, 2014 03:52 |
|
When I lived in an apartment I just sacrificed a cheap folding table as a build surface. It's not the best but at 30-40 bucks it'll do.
|
# ¿ May 10, 2014 06:15 |
|
Yeah I'm going to need a link to where you got that if it has republican decals in the kit.
|
# ¿ Aug 16, 2014 04:29 |
|
Anyone have any experience with takom kits? Apparently they and trumpeter both released a KV-5 kit sparing me from 3d printing one and I'm trying to decide which one to get.
|
# ¿ Aug 30, 2014 00:31 |
|
N17R4M posted:
I wish I had had the same thought when I tried making the Enterprise and D-7s kit as a kid.
|
# ¿ Sep 10, 2014 19:05 |
|
Neo CN by Iwata was my first airbrush and its a good starter one imo. It's not all that precise (I would loop a rubber band from the trigger to the cup for small detail work) and the nozzle tips seem more fragile than others, I've yet to need to replace them on my other one but my CN has needed a replacement three times now. I still like using it for primer and base coats as its .35" nozzle puts out a large spray of paint.
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2014 00:02 |
|
Oh I thought the amazon link would be the compressor/airbrush/paint/cleaning set combo I got. If you're just getting the airbrush separately get an actual Iwata airbrush instead of the neo then. The revolution is very nice.
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2014 02:35 |
|
I add base flat to my future to cut down on the gloss.
|
# ¿ Nov 9, 2014 20:38 |
|
Deeters posted:Where's the best place to order paints from in the US? I found what looked like a nice hobby shop near me, but their paint selection was tiny and the amount of dust suggested it hadn't been touched recently. I'd also be interested in learning this. I love using mr. color paints but my hobby store has been out of black for weeks
|
# ¿ Nov 11, 2014 18:24 |
|
You can use regular super glue on wounds but the medical grade stuff isn't as exothermic and has antibacterial properties in addition to not having solvents that sting like hell in it.
|
# ¿ Jan 1, 2015 01:10 |
|
This claims it's an s-mine port. E: here we go found the wiki page for it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahverteidigungswaffe The diagram in the photo matches your photo above.
|
# ¿ Jan 2, 2015 02:32 |
|
Unkempt posted:Modelling... space? except I have a roll out keyboard drawer that's filled with paint and tools.
|
# ¿ Jan 11, 2015 18:52 |
|
Get some small clippers and cut away as much of the shells while still leaving some as a buffer and the bust out some rasps and file the rest away.
|
# ¿ Jan 29, 2015 02:18 |
|
Sounds like it's too long if anything, how much does it over/under shoot?
|
# ¿ Feb 23, 2015 04:39 |
|
Hmmm, could you slightly extend the linkages for all the other pieces? A little bit of a spread on each might net you a link's worth of length.
|
# ¿ Feb 23, 2015 04:45 |
|
Maybe it's me but when painting walls that frog tape you have there always seems to fall off and allow paint under whereas the generic 3m painters tape is fantastic for model masking.
|
# ¿ Mar 3, 2015 07:01 |
|
Seconding q-tip with acetone but try to avoid drenching the q-tip with it.
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2015 03:09 |
|
Soaking the wood in acetone is probably going to gently caress up the stain but if you dab the glue with acetone on a qtip lightly you'll soften the glue without hurting the stain. Then you can cut or scrape it away with a knife.
Raskolnikov38 fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Mar 20, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 20, 2015 04:03 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:57 |
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Wheels are easily the most boring part of making tanks. Pretty sure that's the track links.
|
# ¿ Mar 25, 2015 05:54 |