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Arquinsiel posted:One time I found a forum where people were hunting down where every part of every kit used to make the models in Star Wars came from and I really wish I hadn't lost it. It's in the Replica Prop Forum. They have every piece of the Millennium Falcon identified to what kit it came from. Of course, now all those kits go for huge bucks because of the people wanting a prop sized replica.
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Jul 1, 2019 06:46
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Symetrique posted:I remember watching a video from Bandai when they were making their Perfect Grade Falcon. They ended up tracking down all of the kits that were used and making digital copies of the parts. Yeah, I got one, and on the initial parts fondling I was all "Oh, wow - that's the engine block, and the tank hull, and..." It was amazing to see how they had reproduced all those teeny details as recognizable kit parts.
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Jul 2, 2019 06:17
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The hard part is getting guns in truck scale, or vice versa.
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Aug 23, 2019 13:59
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The HK 1/32 comes with a bracket you can fit into the bomb bay just so you can mount it vertically on a wall. Once I can find/make the decals for mine, that's how mine will be displayed. I've been trying to find decals in any scale for Yankee Doodle Dandy, which was based at the airfield my grandfather worked at. I think I'm going to have to just use the few pics I can find and recreate it that way.
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Nov 12, 2019 14:41
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Water based putties tend to shrink a fair amount. Solvent based ones like the Tamiya white and grey also shrink some, but are easier to wet sand, adhere better to the plastic, feather out at the edges better, and are easier to do fill over if they shrink too much. The gray is much thicker than the white, and best used for larger fills. The white is more of a finishing surfacer. I find water based putties to be best for things like joints between parts where there is detail nearby. A line of putty in a wing to fuselage joint can be cleaned up pretty easily with a swipe from a wet paper towel. That way you dont need to sand, which can damage surface detail nearby. Any shrinkage will fall on a natural joint line, so unless the gap was huge will look more like a panel line. You can do the same with solvent putties, but you need to use a solvent when you clean up the joint.
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Nov 29, 2019 21:40
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At least it doesn't say "Brony Fantasy"
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Jan 3, 2020 02:44
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String is way too thick and string-y. Stretch some spruce and use that. Use superglue to attach it. You can even use a sharpie to color it black.
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Jan 13, 2020 01:56
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SkunkDuster posted:I saw some sort of rigging/antenna wire that would shrink when heated so you would install it with a couple dabs of CA glue then heat it up to pull it taut. Anybody know what that stuff is? Stretched sprue will do that. The heat source can be a just blown out match, an incense stick, or even a blow dryer. The other advantage is that you can always make more on the spot if you mess it up. Metal wire can be tricky to install, since you have to get it exactly the right length. Also, any impact will leave it with a bend. You can also use the stretchy monofilament used in sewing.
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Jan 13, 2020 02:47
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Your best bet is a two part silicone rubber for molds. If it's a flat backed part you can just stick it to a piece of styrene, make your surrounding dam and you'll have an open faced mold. If it needs to have detail all over you may be able to get away with this if it doesn't have much in the way of overhangs. Otherwise it'll have to be a two part mold. There are lots of vids and pages on how to best go about this. I assume you're going to use uv setting clear resin? I used this to make greeblies to detail up my 2001 Discovery. Worked out nicely, just be careful about your desk lights - I found my LED strip light gave off too much uv and the resin would set while I was still working on it.
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Mar 6, 2020 00:47
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Or better, lands in a fold in your clothing only to fall out somewhere else in the house later.
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Apr 8, 2020 19:55
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And if you solder, use flux! Makes the solder stick like a dream. I used to try soldering without it and that sucked.
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Apr 27, 2020 22:23
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I have a poo poo ton of stuff stashed around. Armor, aircraft, space sci fi.... Both 1/350 Enterprises (TOS and refit, with light kits), the 2001 EVA pod with etch and lights, the old 1/12 Mercury capsule, an Orion, a Moonbus, and my big 2001 Discovery I'm partway through after scratching a new engine section with as close to screen accurate details as I could get... Yeah, I'll be long dead before I get to all my kits.
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May 4, 2020 22:36
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Slugworth posted:I'm thinking I probably will come back to this after my next build and do a base. I've already found a 1/35 chain link fence that would work perfectly, I just have a ton of research to do on what's available/how to do foliage. Check out Luke Towan's videos on YouTube. He does amazing work.
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May 22, 2020 21:20
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Oh, yeah. He does not play.
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May 23, 2020 19:35
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Yeah, but they last forever. I got the regular and mini Waldron sets almost 30 years ago and they're still fine. The teeniest punch got bent, but that was my ham-handedness.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:16
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I have a small room that is mine, up to a point. Every year or two during the housewide deep clean I have to clean up, reorganize and move all the "I'll just put this here for now" things into proper places. Have to admit it does make for better organizing, because I have decades of tools, paints, kits and miscellany. And yes, I do have containers labeled "bits" "misc" and "things". I know the difference, so it works for me.
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Jul 19, 2020 23:04
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One of the best things I've found is solder. It comes in sizes down to .3mm and bends super easy and stays in shape. You don't want to use it for anything load bearing, but for wiring it's great.
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Aug 29, 2020 20:25
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Some people use an iron set on low and press the tire against it, then trim off any plastic that splodges out. Not too hot or your tire will get a lot flatter than you wanted.
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Sep 4, 2020 15:40
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Molentik posted:I sacrifice spare parts to the Carpet Monster in a elaborate ceremony every full moon. My model ritual involves a hidden dab of the inevitable spilled blood.
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Oct 1, 2020 22:11
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Any lab supply place will have it, and probably for a lot less. Also good places for small mixing cups, pipettes, etc. without the "model tool markup".
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Nov 12, 2020 19:14
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Just don't get the styrene cups. A little lacquer thinner and you have both a mess and an "intetesting" addition to your paint mix.
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Nov 13, 2020 16:09
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Eduard has a couple of P-40 kits of different marks. Their new kits are super well done and depending on which level you get can include resin and preprinted etch.
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Dec 7, 2020 21:44
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Ok, that answers the skirt question, but how would a centaur wear pants?
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Dec 9, 2020 01:16
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Now you have to find and train a spider to do the rigging.
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Dec 30, 2020 03:05
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mllaneza posted:This hobby is about 4:1 masking to painting. Possibly more, depending on the kit. For extra super delightful fun, try masking the movie Enterprise with multi-colored color shifting azteking!
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Feb 8, 2021 15:49
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MarxCarl posted:
Why is that giant gun aimed at tiny casual Carl Sagan?
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Mar 29, 2021 15:21
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SoylentCola posted:A lot of you are distressingly good at this. Please be more poo poo. We're goons and we're posting. What more do you want?
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Apr 18, 2021 02:08
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Gewehr 43 posted:Dang. I spent last night assembling the mesh screen Schürzen for the Panzer IV. In doing so, it's become clear that there's no way I'm going to be able to leave hull top plate removable. The bracketry for the skirts connects in too many different places that it will be nigh impossible to remove the hull top plate without first taking the skirts themselves apart. I don't really want to do an exploded view with clear acrylic rod, so I guess I'll just have to suck it up and glue the whole thing together. At least I got pictures of the interior beforehand. Let me tell you about the radio operator's station on my 1/72 nd B-36. It'll have to be thousands of word, because there are no pictures. 
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Apr 20, 2021 15:25
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After careful modifications, altering parts to match the movie, scratching things completely and carefully matching every streak an smear to the prop... I had put the side pods on the wrong sides.
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May 14, 2021 13:57
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As long as the uv light can get to the glue, it works. So no good for gluing things like wings together, but for clear and fiddly bits at the end it's good. Adhesion can be iffy, though. It can also be used for casting in a shallow, open face mold. A piece of clear styrene on the back will give you a nice flat back. I used it a lot for making greeblies for my 2001 Discovery to better match the prop. The kit details don't really look accurate, and the engine module itself is too narrow. I ended up scratchbuilding mine.
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May 18, 2021 03:24
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:All you need is a 4 foot hose that you can insert into "natures compressor". But what if your mom is sleeping?
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Jun 19, 2021 08:39
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Yes.
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Jun 21, 2021 01:06
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punishedkissinger posted:What does everyone use for bushes? We have some nice camellias out front. Might want to check your local ag extension or gardening club for what works best where you are.
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Jul 2, 2021 22:08
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I've switched over to scalpels almost exclusively. I have several cheap handles and a nice German made one. You can feel the difference without looking which is which. I keep that for fresh #11 blades, and the others for other blades. After a bit of use or if the tip snaps the fresh one gets moved to a cheap handle for less delicate jobs. Blades can be bought super cheap by the hundred - usually under $15 bucks. Don't buy them by ten packs, you end up paying as much for 30 as you would for the box. The only downside is that being thinner, they do break more than exacto blades. Having super sharp chunks of steel go flying in random directions can be a tad unsettling.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:11
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I have silicone gaskets in the Cones of my single action Paasche, and they sit in toluene for extended periods. Have been doing it for years and the seals still work just fine. I've done a visual inspection of them and they still look like new. Now a rubber gasket, that's going to be goop after a few minutes of toluene.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:57
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As a weird flex for Tamiya tape, we put a temporary cover over the bright led control panel in our bedroom. It gets flipped up and down twice a day, bending the tape along the seam. Six years later, I finally had to replace the tape as it had split. Tough stuff!
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Oct 15, 2021 18:04
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If noise is a concern, try a CO2 tank. Absolutely silent except for the hiss of the airbrush. The tanks can be bought at a gas supply place, they sell them to restaurants for carbonation. Refills are pretty cheap, and as long as you don't run it 24/7, they last a long time. I got a portable set of tanks used for pneumatic tools. They're small and hold maybe a half liter of liquid CO2. For my rare needs it works out well, and I get my refills at a sports store. They also get used for airsoft and paintball guns, so that's another option. You just need a small fitting to connect the line, I got mine at the same big box hardware place I got my tanks.
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Oct 31, 2021 18:46
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FrozenVent posted:There are some absolute mad lads on Facebook: That scene is going to be on every contest table in every model show for years!
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Mar 9, 2022 00:25
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Doubt if Zvezda would be doing one! ICM, if they weren't under attack.
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Mar 9, 2022 10:52
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Those models will be sold out and scalped on eBay within days.
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Mar 11, 2022 00:05
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