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TheMirage posted:Well, it really wasn't my choice, she removed the cone herself. Must not be very strong stuff. Whatever the vet put on Pepper when she got spayed was enough to have her practically foaming at the mouth trying to get the taste out whenever she licked it (which was only about three times total).
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Dec 13, 2013 17:10
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Took my 15-year-old cat to the vet because she was acting weird. She was unusually calm at the vet's (read: not a raging hell creature) so we were pretty worried but it turns out she just has a light infection that's easily treatable and her kidneys and liver and various other important organs are doing very well indeed. Look how pleased she was to hear the news! 
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Dec 20, 2013 08:20
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Devonaut posted:It makes me wonder about health insurance. Do you guys carry it or recommend it on your pets? I never really thought about it until this happened and never had a veterinarian mention it to me. We never had it for my cats growing up and one died last year aged 19 having barely had a single health problem her entire life and the other is still going strong at 15 with some health problems but nothing too major or expensive. But I know we've been incredibly lucky with that and since Pepper's only 1 year old and anything could happen I've got pet insurance for her. I know I probably won't end up spending enough at the vet to make up the cost of the premium but it's just nice not having to worry about whether it's worth taking her to the vet or not or if I should wait an extra day because it's expensive on Sundays etc etc because I've already paid for most of it via her insurance. And of course it's good to know that if she ever does need anything really drastic, I can afford to do it. Mine's through the RSPCA though so even if I never use it at least I'm helping to support them a bit.
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Dec 22, 2013 16:25
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Mr. Wookums posted:Basically I'm trying to preempt behavior I don't want by making my place cat friendly. I know it all depends on the cat, just looking for generalizations. It really, really depends on the cat. That said, with at least some cats it's not impossible to teach them not to jump on particular bits of furniture, or at least it's possible to convince them that jumping on that particular piece of furniture is unpleasant and not worth it. Some cats don't like stepping on aluminium foil, some cats don't like stepping on plastic wrap, some make a very easy connection between loud scary noises and jumping on a particular thing. On the other hand, some cats have already decided that that bookshelf is their favourite place to explore and pushing glass objects off it is their favourite game and nothing is going to persuade them otherwise except for eventually getting bored and finding a different game.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:55
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Mulloy posted:One of my cats has exhibited a new behavior in the last month or so which I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on. Specifically one of my boy cats will now run to the bathroom door whenever the shower goes on and as soon as someone leaves, he will run into the bathroom and jump into the tub... and then just kind of hang around. There haven't been any significant changes in the household and none in the cat arrangement at all. I have never witnessed this behavior, and it seems innocent enough, but I have no idea what's caused the sudden development after a year or so of living with us. Is this the kind of shower that's above the bathtub or a separate one? I mean is the water from the shower in the bathtub? Either way the cat's just being a cat, but one of our cats went through a phase of loving to lick up shower water after a shower and I'm pretty sure that's fairly common. Hopping into a dry tub after a shower is a bit weirder but cats will be cats. In any case it's pretty normal for cats to phase in and out of habits like that for no particular reason (just to make it harder for their owners to tell if something's wrong or not).
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Jan 11, 2014 16:46
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SynthOrange posted:Hey guys and girls. I've never owned a cat before, know fairly little about them, and never actually considered it up until recently. I've always been a dog person and having a dog was always the thing I wanted. Still, I live in an apartment and am away for 10+ hours during the day so that was always a huge barrier to getting a dog. So someone suggested a cat. Cats are pretty great apartment pets, yeah. Two cats (who are friends) will generally be happier than one cat, especially if left alone for long periods of time. They are quite social creatures and can get bored easily and when they get bored they get destructive. It's also really not much more effort to take care of two cats rather than one (although of course it's more expensive). That said, kittens and young cats have much more energy than older cats and it depends on individuals as well. If you really didn't want to get a second cat I'd say get a cat who's older than 2 years or so and give them a nice cat tree and a few toys to play with while you're out (and if possible access to look out a window at birds and stuff AKA Cat TV). Getting an adult cat also means you have a better chance of being able to tell what sort of cat they'll be, so you can try aim for one who's friendly but not clingy and happy to play but not so energetic that you come home to everything knocked off every surface. But cats are pretty adaptable creatures in general and I think it's possible to give one a good home even if it's on its own a lot.
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Jan 15, 2014 09:37
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SynthOrange posted:Well what about the cats and company question I asked earlier? Are adult cats better about being alone or should I plan to go in for two of them so they spend their energy on each other and keep themselves entertained when I'm at work? It depends on the individual cat's personality. Some adult cats are happy to amuse themselves or sleep all day and only play with you when you're around in the morning/evening and some cats will pine and be unhappy without a person there for them. Ask the people taking care of the specific cats you're looking at and you should be able to find one whose needs suit you. That said, I'd get two if I were you because as long as they're bonded they'll keep each other company and it also means you get twice the companionship from them. I'd also adopt adults because then you can tell their personality better and adults get adopted less than kittens do. I'm not sure I'd want to get a kitten if I was going to be absent for large parts of the day because kittens get into trouble really quickly.
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Jan 16, 2014 11:52
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SyHopeful posted:- One odd thing he's done since we brought him home is that sometimes after eating or drinking, he paws at the surface around the area exactly like he's trying to bury a turd. It concerned me at first, but he never relieved himself in those areas so I'm not seeing a strong correlation. I can't help with the rest, but I can say at least this has nothing to do with crapping. Cats in the wild bury their food so other predators aren't drawn in by it and some house cats still have the instinct for it. My cat used to do it when we first got her and grew out of it after a few months but it doesn't really matter if yours doesn't. Some cats even go to the effort of dragging pieces of cloth or whatever to cover the bowl.
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Jan 17, 2014 10:18
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SynthOrange posted:Can cats be trained to hork up hairballs only in certain places? As far as I can tell they don't know they're going to hairball until it happens. I can tell my cat's about to hairball because she will suddenly begin to make a break for outside only to stop and start coughing. Hairballs are likely to only be a once-every-few-months sort of affair though, the fun really starts when you get a cat who throws up for no apparent reason on a regular basis.
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Jan 27, 2014 06:18
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Ratzap posted:I bought one of those for my two after I saw how much my mothers played with theirs. Mine are utterly uninterested, I call them in and start the ball rolling round/flashing but they just sit and look at it. Buffy is a smart girl but she just doesn't bother with it. She sniffed it, looked at me as if to say 'that ball's stuck in there pal' and picked up a catnip mouse to knock about instead. My cat was obsessed with it for about two days and then realised she'd never get the ball out and refused to play with it anymore. But I was able to get another day or so out of it by putting little balls made of scrunched up aluminium foil inside the track because she could in fact get those out if she tried. When she got bored with that I started putting little hard rolly treats inside and she'll still spend ages getting one or two of those out. She gets bored again if I do it too often but at least I'm getting a bit more use out of the thing! When did I start being proud about outsmarting my cat enough to get her to play with her toys...
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Jan 30, 2014 13:41
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Pepper wants very badly to sleep snuggled up cutely with me but instead she just climbs all over me forever occasionally lying down for 30 seconds while she tries to find a comfortable position and then hops off apologetically when she fails. Seriously, I tried napping on the couch once and she tried for 20 minutes straight. It's somehow never occurred to her that she can curl up next to me instead and she won't take any hints.
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Feb 7, 2014 08:23
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Iron Crowned posted:I don't really know what kind of statistics are on it, but I think most cats are affectionate. The observation that they're not seems to stem from visitors, and some cats can just disappear when new people are around. A lot of people have remarked that my cat follows me around like a dog, she's 8 years old. I think this hits the nail on the head. Almost all cats will be affectionate with their people to a greater or lesser extent unless there's something traumatic in their history/they weren't ever socialised until they were too old to get it. But there are plenty of cats who are neurotic about strangers and therefore people who don't own cats themselves are much less likely to see a cat being affectionate. There's also the fact that cats aren't usually as reliant on their owners as dogs are and people tend to think in binaries so obviously if they aren't following their owners around everywhere and obeying their orders they must not care at all.
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Feb 15, 2014 04:48
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Turtlicious posted:So I introduced a kitten to my older cat Sega, (Sega is just over a year old, and the kitten is an indefinite age, but still little.) They aren't mean / meowling, they aren't really do anything bad and are just chilling maybe six inches from each other. Sega looked like he was going to take a swipe at the kitten once but I told Sega no and he stopped. (He raised his paw at the kitten.) Sounds like a good start. Don't worry about chastising the older one for swiping at the kitten. Swiping's fine in general, kittens are irritating and need to learn how not to be irritating. It's only a problem if blood is being drawn or it otherwise looks really serious.
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Feb 25, 2014 09:29
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So I know that not all cats have the react to catnip gene and I've heard that Australian cats in particular tend to lack it (since Australia is basically its own breeding population because you have to really try to import cats here) but if my cat devoured a patch of mint is it fair to say she's definitely going to like actual catnip too?
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Feb 26, 2014 06:02
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Grantaire posted:Hi cat friends, If she's making hairballish coughing noises but isn't bringing anything up then she might actually be having an asthma attack. They do sound a bit different to throwing up noises but it's close enough to easily mistake the two if you don't know there's a difference.
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Mar 21, 2014 17:41
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The blue bunny posted:She has started to hiss at me for trying to control her which isn't great because she also will sleep with her head leaning against your hand. What are you doing when you're "trying to control her"?
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Apr 15, 2014 05:57
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Dr VideoGames 0.299 posted:But what I've read about laser pointers is that they're not great for the cat's mental health. The cat never effectively catches anything and so can get wound up tighter and tighter, exhausted but not spent. I've tried using the laser pointer to lead her to physical toys like the tassel or the scratching post, but when I put the light away and start trying to get her to chase the tassel or a ball, she just goes back to being bored. I'm pretty sure this depends on the cat. Some cats get freaked out by there not being anything to catch, some cats just want to run around a lot and couldn't care less whether they ever get the dot. So if yours enjoys chasing it and seems tired at the end and doesn't cry or keep looking for where it went or seem otherwise anxious, I wouldn't worry about it.
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May 4, 2014 02:57
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I don't know a thing about house rabbits so I can't tell you if yours will ever get used to the cat, but I can say that Boston's staring and laying on the ground could still just be him wanting to be friends with her. My younger cat does the same thing when she tries to get the older cat (who hates her) to like her and behaves very, very differently towards anything she sees as prey. My instinct is that if Boston's first impression was that Olive is a potential buddy and not prey, he's not going to change his mind just because she's not being friendly back to him. And if he did change his mind you'd be seeing him go after her with much more intent than he currently is. That said, he might still want to chase her and tackle her since that's how cats often play, so that could still be a problem. Have you ever seen him actually stalk something like a fly or a cricket or anything?
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May 13, 2014 15:17
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I know the answer to, "My cat is doing a thing! Is this unusual?" is pretty much always, "No, it's a cat" but I'm curious about this anyway. I know that when cats are pleased to see people they hold their tails straight up, but when Pepper does it half the time she curls her tail all the way over so that the tip's almost touching her back. Here's a bad photo of what I mean (it looks a bit like it's curling to the side but it was directly over her back): So is this a weird habit? I've spent a lot of time with a lot of cats and I can't remember ever seeing another cat do that instead of having their tail just go straight up.
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May 30, 2014 12:52
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What's the best position to hold a cat in to clip its claws? Pepper's pretty cooperative about the whole exercise but she'll still only give me a couple of minutes before she gets squirmy. I've been holding her on my lap on her back kind of upright like how a person sits (if that makes sense) but she has very tufty paws and it's hard to find her claws from that angle through all the fur there. It's especially difficult to reach her thumb claws and I usually can't manage it before she decides she's had enough. Is there a way I can hold her that would be more efficient? It's kind of hard to experiment because she will only give me a couple of minutes to work with at a time.
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Jun 13, 2014 09:02
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bubblelubble posted:Eh I've heard many things about cats and their names. Cos yeah, I've heard it's not so much that they know it's *their* name but moreso that they know they're being called or something when they hear it. But then again, my friend got a "thirdhand" cat whose name was changed by its second owner, and it doesn't recognise its name at all, despite being called that for years now. Cats can be clicker-trained and if you're planning on actually making an effort to train your cat to come when called then it's not going to matter what you call it because it'll learn to come to that sound anyway. Some cats learn to recognise their names by themselves (from what I hear) and some definitely don't (my personal experience). Either way, don't be put off adopting an older cat because you'll want to change its name, it isn't going to make that much difference to it.
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Jun 17, 2014 16:20
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Our 16 year-old cat needs half a tablet every morning and evening for her hyperthyroidism and we just put it inside a tiny dollop of cream cheese. As a result tablet time is her absolute favourite time of day and she gets cranky if we delay it. The weird thing is she's an incredibly bright and usually uncooperative creature so we absolutely expected her to just lick the cheese off and leave the tablet. We just thought we'd try it just in case and nearly two years later she's only left the tablet behind a handful of times. So I'm not saying it'll work for everyone but if you're looking for tablet-giving solutions it's worth a try.
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Jun 20, 2014 10:11
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Pinball posted:Boris has been home since Monday, though I've been out of the apartment and in the next city over most of that time for a family vacation, returning home every other day to top off food and water, and scoop the litter boxes. Andie, the original cat, is spending most of her time on top of the cabinets or as far away from the closed door between the front room and the back room as possible. Boris is shrieking every time I show up, and he's pooped on one of my carpets. He also bit my sister when we showed up the first time to check on him on Tuesday, and I'm all worried that maybe he's rabid after all and she's going to die a terrible death (since apparently it takes up to a month for rabies immunity to be conferred by the vaccine, and he was vaccinated on June 6th). Or that he's just a horrible jerk who will never settle in and I'll have to take him back. Wait, are you saying you brought him home after he'd previously had what seemed like a pretty unpleasant experience at your place and then just left him completely alone shut up in a small space for days on end with barely any contact with another living creature? I mean, maybe he is just not a good cat but it doesn't sound like you're giving him much of a chance to be one.
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Jul 4, 2014 07:53
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duckfarts posted:To be fair, that's kinda normal procedure for introducing a cat to a new place: keep them in a separate room with places to hide so they can acclimate to the new smells and sounds. It'd be better to visit once a day at least, but I don't really see enough information from that post to have a good idea of what's going on there really. Right, but that advice is usually accompanied with "spend quiet time in the room with the cat so it gets used to you" and also only really applies to shy cats who only want to hide for a while when introduced to a new place. This is a cat that's been brought to a new place, put in a really stressful situation, carted off to quarantine for what, two weeks? And then brought back to the new place and left alone and possibly with nothing to do for days. I mean I'm not saying he would be the perfect pet if that hadn't happened, maybe he just is a total dickhead cat and nothing will change that. I'm just saying it doesn't really sound like a situation likely to bring out the best in any cat.
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Jul 4, 2014 08:31
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Alteisen posted:Are there canned or dry food that help with dental stuff? My 8 year old has periodontal disease, he's going for his 2nd clean up tomorrow and possible removal of some teeth, in the meantime I'd like to know how I can alter his diet to ensure he doesn't have anymore issues. Try raw chicken necks. I have to cut them up a little bit for my old lady cat but she loves them and as far as I'm aware the chewing helps keep their teeth clean. Just make sure they're not cooked. Of course, my younger cat is a spoiled brat and has no interest in eating them but it's worth trying at least. And there are ways of trying to convince the cat that it is actually delicious food that they should be eating too.
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Jul 10, 2014 12:00
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Charles Martel posted:I have a silly question from a new kitten owner for the cat experts in the house that wasn't covered in the OP: How can I make our new kitten (Ruby the Wonder Twin as my fiancee affectionately calls her) more affectionate/cuddly/comfortable/etc? I'm no dog expert but honestly it sounds like you're thinking more like a dog owner than a cat owner. Cats have pretty distinct personalities that are much more difficult to mold, even if you get them as a kitten. Basically, there isn't a way to "make" your cat more of a lap cat than she's going to be. If she's generally comfortable around you, and it sounds like she is, then everything's fine and she'll be as affectionate as she wants to. Some cats are lap cats and some cats are shoulder cats and some cats prefer to lie next to humans but not on top of them, and it doesn't necessarily mean that one cat is more comfortable and happy than the other. I mean, you can try to get her used to lying on laps and you can try giving her treats to make her associate particular behaviours with a nice reward and it won't make her hate you or anything (some might say picking up cats and putting them places and generally screwing with them is one of the privileges of cat ownership), but it won't necessarily work either. She might also grow into it as she gets older and less full of ridiculous kitten energy, or she might not.
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Jul 31, 2014 05:11
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I know cats are contrary creatures, but are they contrary enough to decide they don't feel like eating food that they've previously demonstrated they love for a day or more at a time when completely healthy otherwise? Our 16 year-old girl will usually eat but every now and then she'll just refuse to for a while. We try giving her different food and sometimes it helps but usually she still doesn't care. She has hyperthyroidism that's kept well under control with tablets and the first time she refused to eat for a day we brought her to the vet who did all sorts of tests on her, which all came up totally clear and healthy. She's always been skinny though and I'm worried she can't really afford to not be eating what we give her every day. Is it worth bugging the vet some more about whether they've missed something? She has been drinking and we can trick her into getting some nutrition by putting water on her wet food and letting her drink that, but it's still pretty worrying.
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Aug 14, 2014 05:07
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HelloSailorSign posted:Unless your cat is obese, then I would take to a vet after one day of not eating. This is what I've always heard, and I know cats can go downhill really fast if they don't eat which is why I get worried every time she refuses to. But the first time it happened was maybe a month or so ago and I did take her in then and every test showed she's remarkably healthy for a cat her age, thyroid issue aside. So it seems a bit much to take her to the vet every time she stops eating for a while unless there are issues people can think of that would stop her eating that wouldn't be picked up by blood tests and ultrasounds. I guess I could ring up the vet and find out exactly what tests were done and if there were any that weren't.
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Aug 14, 2014 17:11
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CommonShore posted:Is there any reasonable way, once I've gotten the cats used to each other (which I don't think will take long as they're both pretty passive and chill cats), to have them each have their "own room"? I want Trigger to stay more or less out of the roommate's room, and Cashew to more or less prefer that space. I've seen cats with this kind of behaviour before, but I just don't have any ideas as to how to encourage it. If they end up being cat buddies then I don't think there's really much way of keeping them having separate territories and I don't see any reason to try and encourage it. If they don't like each other (and neither of them are aggressive or prone to bullying the other) than based on my experience of living with two cats who don't like each other they'll naturally decide that the room that they've spent a lot of time in getting used to the house is Their Room. The room we kept our younger cat in when she was introduced into the house is very definitely her territory, she goes there when she's scared and sleeps there a lot generally and the other cat only goes in there if she feels like she has a very good reason to.
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Sep 4, 2014 17:13
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Captain Mediocre posted:Are regular tins of tuna/sardines okay? Anybody had experience of any other treat foods that a cat might overcome low appetite for? Tuna's apparently really bad as anything more than a small, very occasional treat because it causes some sort of vitamin deficiency, but chicken or red meat of some kind would probably work. It depends on the cat though, and I know from experience trying to convince a cat who doesn't want to eat that they should eat can be a really tiring and frustrating experience.
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Sep 22, 2014 16:47
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Oxyclean posted:e: In particular, if I do use sprays, will he start to associate cord = bad taste in general? I want to make sure it's a habit he stops so I don't have to coat all my cables. The one convenient thing about cats is that most of them form associations of "I did this thing and it was unpleasant so now I will never do it again" very quickly. The best way to get them to stop doing anything is to make it seem like a bad idea to do it for a while, and hopefully it'll stick. So if you can get a spray that's safe and that your cat hates, you're in with a pretty good chance.
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Oct 20, 2014 05:50
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Octolady posted:My kitten (3 1/2 months now) is obsessed with climbing peoples legs. We have tried pretty much everything to deter her, removing her as soon as she does it, ignoring her, distracting her with the cat tree and encouraging her to use it, but she just comes straight back and goes for our legs. I haven't tried the squirt bottle yet because I've heard mixed opinions, but I'm really at my wits end. Have you tried yelping loudly at her as you remove her?
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Oct 23, 2014 07:51
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Deteriorata posted:There is no actual evidence of this that I'm aware of. When you say there's no actual evidence, are you talking only about something like decent scientific studies showing that cats will live longer on average on x type of food rather than y type of food or are you also including scientific understanding of what kinds of foods cats are capable of digesting/"designed" to eat? I try to feed my cat high animal-protein low carb cat food because to my knowledge they're much better at digesting it. I really doubt that there are any studies that definitively show it increasing lifespan one way or the other simply because I don't think there's enough interest/money available to research it like that. That said, I actually pay slightly less for the supposedly-awesome food I'm feeding her now than I was for supermarket "crap" so I'd still do it anyway just in case. ETA: That said, I'm still pretty sure most "grain-free" advertising is misleading and pointless. Most food I've seen advertising itself as grain free just has pumpkin or some other kind of plant matter instead of grains, and I'm not sure that's any better aside from sounding better to people. Organza Quiz fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 06:05
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Daily Forecast posted:This just in! Feeding a cat meat is better than feeding a cat not-meat. I'm actually kind of on the fence about this. I mean, common sense is often wrong about things, that's where empirical evidence comes in. I'm too lazy to try and find the scientific backing for how cats digest things and what they should be eating though. Although now that I think about it I remember last time this came up Deteriorata found a study showing definitively that a cat's digestive system doesn't deal with carbohydrates very well and grudgingly admitted that high-protein foods might be better.
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Nov 7, 2014 13:03
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Deteriorata posted:No, that's not how it worked. Up to certain level (about 10%, IIRC), carbohydrates in cat food have no measurable effect on the health of the cat. Above that digestive problems begin due to the carbohydrates fermenting in the digestive tract. This produces lots of runny poop, but does not seem to affect the cat much beyond that. Unless I'm reading the nutritional breakdowns totally wrong (which is certainly a possibility) most crappy supermarket cat foods have way more than 10% carbohydrates. If that's the level at which cats start having digestive issues then that's a huge point in favour of giving them something better as a factor in giving them the best standard of living as opposed to just spending money on them to feel better. TheAngryDrunk posted:This is true, but there isn't a financial incentive to study everything. When science is silent, sometimes we have to use our judgment. I totally agree. In the absence of scientific evidence one way or the other, I am very content to go with what my common sense and judgement tells me is best, which is giving my cat the most meaty stuff I can find. Personally, I'm going to buy the best food that I can afford and that my cat will actually eat. I'm just also open to the idea that it might not have as much effect as I feel in my heart that it should. And I'm certainly not going to argue against someone arguing otherwise just by stating that it's common sense.
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Nov 7, 2014 17:19
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Some cats just don't have the gene to be affected by catnip. I'd try making something that's similar to what he already likes playing with but is still new-smelling and a little different. Which I know isn't terribly helpful but it's the only thing that works with my cat who gets sick of toys within days. You may be able to get some mileage out of knotting up a drinking straw and potentially tying it to some string on a stick.
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Nov 18, 2014 16:34
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Datasmurf posted:I've read the OP and many a indoor / outdoor debate, and I take it's just a culture thing. Just like the part about whether the cat should have dry or wet food (here everyone seems to say dry food is the best, wet food is an unhealthy luxury they should get once a week or so, or when they deserve a treat, but I've read that other places, dry food is considered a big no no, and that they should always get wet food). Look, I come from a country where outside cats are the norm (although they really shouldn't be and that's changing now, less because of cat safety and more so they don't massacre the local wildlife) and I've had outside cats and I am the very last person to yell at people to keep their cats inside as a matter of course. But if my cat was getting injured on a regular basis by other cats when she went outside I would keep her in. At that point it's not the usual argument that involves weighing hypothetically getting run over or stolen or whatever vs wanting to let the cat enjoy being outdoors, it's about stopping a cat who is getting repeatedly hurt from being hurt. It's not rocket science. You know why it happens, you know it's going to keep happening whenever the cat stays at your place, how can you justify letting it happen when it's relatively easy to prevent?
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Nov 24, 2014 09:05
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I currently live in a place with a nice enclosed courtyard that my cat is happy to run around in without escaping (she's physically capable of it but too dumb to work it out and too timid to want to in any case). In a week or two I'll be moving to a house that has a massive back yard, but one that isn't nearly secure enough for me to want to let her out unsupervised. I'm thinking of building some kind of cat run/enclosure so she can still enjoy being outside a bit. Anyone got any recommendations for guides or ideas about what to make it out of or how expensive/difficult it's likely to be? I figure it can't be that expensive or difficult and would mostly involve a whole lot of chicken wire.
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Dec 3, 2014 03:13
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supermikhail posted:Are you sure chicken wire isn't your cat's favorite climbing material? It may well be! I'm intending on making something closed at the top so it doesn't matter if she climbs it. That said, she has really terrible balance for a cat and I've never seen her climb anything in her life so it might not actually occur to her.
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Dec 3, 2014 05:15
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:13 |
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Aradekasta posted:MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW MEOW Sounds like he's worried about not having enough food, considering he's been a stray for possibly a very long time and he shuts up if there's extra food around. Could you just leave out a bowl of dry food for him so he can see that he's not going to starve? From what you said it sounded like you feed him a set amount at meal times but also that he can be trusted not to just stuff his face with as much food as can fit in it at all times.
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Dec 3, 2014 07:18
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