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Long shot, but is it one of those lenses that only stops down while the picture is being taken? If not, the quick fix imo is theHUNGERian posted:I have successfully used a step down ring specifically for this.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2021 01:17 |
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# ¿ May 18, 2024 02:53 |
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I'll likely have to go to LA to get my passport renewed in late July, and I figured I should stay the night before so I don't have to deal with traffic the morning of the appointment (which has turned this 100 mile trip into a 3-hour drive last time I did it). And if I already stay the night, I might as well bring my camera along and spend some extra time exploring, preferably on foot. What are my options in the area around the Los Angeles County Museum of Art? I would like to stay away from residential areas, indoor locations (unless tripods are allowed, but I won't be using flash), and poverty tourism (homeless camps). I do enjoy most other things, especially older buildings, brutalism, art (including graffiti), old cars. I have already been to the Getty museum and Villa before, and I don't have a desire to revisit (nor are they within walking distance).
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2021 03:39 |
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joat mon posted:Any recommendations for where to get 8x10 and 8x12 prints made? Richardphotolab. I've only used them once for prints, and while I have no prior experience with having prints made, I have no complaints about the print they delivered.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2021 03:57 |
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Has anyone ever bought from kmcamera.com?
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2021 02:39 |
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Assuming I have looked through a couple of books from Ansel Adams and Robert Capa, what are some good books for the average landscape (actual landscape but also parking lots) dorkroom-goon?
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2021 23:46 |
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This is the reason rounded diaphragms are so attractive to some people. At focal lengths (certainly at 200 mm), you can get away with using an external aperture (in the form of a step-down ring) to stop down your lens with a perfectly circular diaphragm. Using this trick at sorter focal lengths may cause vignetting.
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2021 14:54 |
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Hadlock posted:Do Sony cameras still have a menu system that looks like it crawled out of a post apocalyptic early 1990s movie Sure, but you can fully customize an easy-to-reach function menu button with your 12 most used menu items and 4 additional custom buttons. Once I had that set up (and I admit, it took a while to figure out what I used most often), I have only accessed the full menu when I had to format the memory card.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2021 01:30 |
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Hadlock posted:It's more of a, "I spent how much money on this, and kids toys have a better interface than this thing?" Kind of situation I get it, I am not defending Sony, I have plenty of critique of their system myself. But when you consider just how many gadgets are in the camera, it should not be surprising that sorting them intuitively is tough. If you want an easy interface, get a Leica.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2021 04:06 |
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Tortilla Maker posted:For those of you working with film cameras, do you carry a notepad/field journal to jot down your camera settings? I only use google keep notes on my phone. For each roll I note camera, lens, film stock, and how I metered (rated ISO and prism vs handheld meter [incident vs spot]). For each frame I also note F-stop, exposure time, and up to three words on what the subject was. If I use my non-normal lens, I make a note of that too.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2021 00:22 |
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Honestly, for film, it makes sense to keep some track of exposure time and metering. If you find occasional underexposed frames in an otherwise well-exposed roll, it helps if you notice that all 1/180 s exposures are underexposed on all rolls because that info points to a shutter problem at that particular setting. Easy to fix, but tough to identify when you don't have the info.
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2021 03:22 |
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huhu posted:Anyone have any good resources for learning more about black and white? I feel like right now I'm either - buy camera and have the bayer matrix removed by https://www.monochromeimaging.com/ or https://maxmax.com/ Seriously though, I would start with shooting raw and doing bw conversion in post because it gives you the most bang for the buck.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2021 15:24 |
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If you can shoot mono in raw, then obviously that is the way to go, but in my experience, that is not an option unless you have a dedicated mono camera (which I highly recommend owning, but $$$). So an alternative is to set the creative style to bw, as this will help you visualize the world in bw (because the screen will be showing a bw preview). But then you have to pinky-promise yourself to actually convert the raw image to bw. The conversion will allow you to make adjustments in post, which on a mono camera are only possible with color filters (again, a totally fine approach, but $$$). Shooting just a handful rolls of bw film convinced me that I wanted a mono camera, so I bought a second A7R3 and had it converted. Still waiting on that sucker to arrive. Edit: What I am trying to get at is that don't just take the jpg files that the bw creative style of your camera created from your raws. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Nov 19, 2021 |
# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 15:32 |
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shame on an IGA posted:what on earth no if you want to shoot B&W on digital go familiarize yourself intimately with the channel mixer Obviously that's an important part when shooting bw with a color camera. But previsualizing a scene in bw comes first, hence my comment on setting the creative style, which will only impact the image on the camera screen, not the raw. My comment on being able "to make adjustments in post" was referring to the channel mixer.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 17:22 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:Thats not at all what i was saying. Whom are you responding to? Edit: I was not trying to put words into anyone's mouth. I was just trying to give my opinion on how to get better bw images. Previsualizing bw is an important step to make that happen imo. Edit2: I admit I misread the original question and started talking about gear when the question was about resources. I have found photo books to be a great resource. "Genesis" and "Forms of Japan" are great and they focus on black and white. Sitting down and dissecting them is great fun. I'll shut up now. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 19, 2021 |
# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 17:57 |
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poo poo, I totally missed that. Yeah dude, scan your own film! Lab scans are bad scans.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 21:53 |
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Depending and the product and the background, a tilt shift lens may be a really nice tool.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2021 02:52 |
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gently caress! At that point I would assume that they either lost your camera, or that they are renting it out for some extra income, or that they used it as a donor to repair other cameras. I too would ask for it back. At this point they would have lost all credibility/trust in my book.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2021 22:56 |
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I too prefer a screen on the back, especially if it can be tilted, as I really like to shoot from waist level.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2022 14:56 |
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I bought my first film camera 15 years after buying my first digital camera. Film rules, and I regret not buying one sooner. 1. Film made me realize that it's not about the gear (a camera+lens from the 1980s can produce stunning results), nor is grain bad (Delta 3200 _owns_), nor do you need 12 stops of dynamic range. 2. With film, each wasted shot hurts a lot more than a wasted shot in digital (because film is expensive relative to digital storage). This "penalty function" is helping me get better. 3. Using the waist level finder on a medium format camera is a mind blowing experience. After a year of using my most recent digital camera (before I jumped into film), I had noticed that I liked to shoot from waist level height with the screen tilted up. I wasn't sure why I was doing it, especially since the haptics of the shutter button sucked in that position. Once I bought a medium format camera with a waist level finder it all clicked. You can't shoot from that position _all the time_ (seeing a bride's nose hair will get you guillotined), but I recommend at least trying it out a couple of times. 4+5. Developing and scanning film are not for everyone, but they add to your fundamentals. If you stick to black and white, it is relatively inexpensive, especially if you can use a community lab. 6 (indirect). Once I jumped into film, I spent a lot more time consuming other peoples' work, rather than just casually looking at their pictures. I started buying photo books, carefully going through them, repeatedly, taking notes on why I like some pictures, dislike others. A lot of my pictures still suck, but I want to say that they have gotten better ever since I started shooting film (in parallel to digital). Edit: You totally do not need a film camera. Use the one you have, get familiar with it, learn the basics of photography. If you find a mentor who shoots film, see if you can borrow their gear for a day or week, and if you love it, you know what to do. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 15:40 on May 21, 2022 |
# ¿ May 21, 2022 14:49 |
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Well, in some situations fast feedback is more important. For me, macro is such a use case. I am still learning how to deal with flash power and diffuser in various scenarios. Add to that the razor thin DOF which is not much better even at f/11, and I much prefer digital over film for macro.
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# ¿ May 22, 2022 01:30 |
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I was away form the forums for 2 days, and I had my fingers crossed the entire time that there would be a meltdown. Not disappointed.
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# ¿ May 26, 2022 03:14 |
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With some camera/lens combos lens corrections are applied even to raws, even when all corrections are turned off. Example: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64862331 The camera applied circular color corrections that only disappeared once the electrical contacts between camera and lens were covered up (even though all lens corrections were turned off in the camera). Sony should be crucified for the poo poo they pulled on this.
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# ¿ May 27, 2022 02:54 |
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Toalpaz posted:You know how you can perspective transform photo's so that midrise buildings appear squared up? (I am enjoying shooting buildings) Do what makes you happy, nobody is going to call the cops on you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4pE-pdhnJw I do it sometimes, but only for smaller corrections. Larger corrections will look odd if done in post though perhaps they would look better if I used a tilt/shift lens. I also feel that large manipulations are less likely to represent what a human saw with their own eyes (and I prefer to err on the side of documenting what I saw).
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2022 14:31 |
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JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:It’s not strictly photography, but Josef Albers’ ‘Interaction of Color’ has educated artists better than anyone reading this forum for 50 years Thank you for the recommendation. I just finished this and I found it a great read! I have a feeling I will still suck with colors, but perhaps I will suck a little less?
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2022 19:19 |
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Stop giving a poo poo about people who think you are a dork because you are pursuing your happiness, and do what works for you.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2022 02:41 |
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Lily Catts posted:... for kicks? ... GAS ... It's GAS. I would much rather keep my $$$ and spend my time on hobby activities - going out to shoot. New systems make sense when they offer something that your existing gear can't do.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2022 14:28 |
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I understand KEH has gotten less conservative in their rating over the last 5 years. Has anyone bought "Bargain" grade stuff from them lately? If so, how honest of a rating was it? Was it mostly cosmetic wear that did not impact function in any way?
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2022 20:51 |
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Hadlock posted:I have a fuji x mount, along with a handful of old Canon FD (not EF) mount lenses including a 1.4 and a 1.2 nifty fifty If your lens is on one side of the glass and the subject on the other side, you way also want to look into buying a different jar, as macroscopic differences in glass thickness (and surface roughness) can result in blurry images.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2022 01:37 |
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Hadlock posted:Thanks sounds like I need to buy/print the extension tubes Nice! Rock on and post pics!
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2022 02:58 |
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Maybe a dumb question: I always see the recommendation to use single-point AF for still objects / landscapes / portraits and continuous AF for moving objects, which seems reasonable enough, but is there any actual reason *not* to use continuous AF for portraits in particular? Seems like being able to keep the subjects eye in focus while you recompose / avoid losing focus if the subject shifts a bit too much would be useful - is there a downside I'm blanking on? I spent a day shooting a wedding reception with C-AF. It made things a breeze and I do not feel I traded anything off. But do make sure it works well for your particular lens and in typical conditions, before you spend an entire day shooting a once in a lifetime opportunity.
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# ¿ Dec 6, 2022 03:57 |
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gently caress software subscriptions. I use Capture One, and I am happy with it, thought it has its weaknesses. For example, it really sucks at fixing false color and it will not let you fix pincushion/barrel distortion when editing TIFFs.
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2023 03:10 |
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Yeah, a month is pretty decent. When this was rolled out initially, I worried that they would increase prices like crazy, and I am happy to see that did not happen. Regarding C1. Yes, they also offer a subscription, but you can also get a perpetual license. The perpetual license will still get you updates for bug fixes, but you will not get updates for new features. And it will set you back $300.
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2023 19:03 |
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https://www.samys.com/preowned https://www.camerawest.com/products/condition/used https://usedphotopro.com/ https://www.jogeier.com/ also has a ton of old poo poo.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2023 15:51 |
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xzzy posted:But those are awesome shooting conditions! Pinhole cameras for the win!
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2023 23:12 |
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If the faster shutter is accomplished by opening up the lens more then it makes perfect sense, because dust on a sensor is most obvious at smaller apertures.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2023 02:22 |
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field balm posted:I was just using the shutter priority mode and a 10 stop nd filter, here's (i think) the relevant stuff from the exif data Yeah, f/36 will show every piece of dust, while f/5.6 will be more forgiving, with exposure time and depth of focus being the tradeoffs.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2023 14:15 |
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You can get rid of them by using a step down ring as a perfectly circular aperture. Might cause some vignetting though.
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2023 14:16 |
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JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:Thank god for dudes like this https://i.imgur.com/EERIKRF.mp4
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2023 19:53 |
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:Going back to Lightroom alternative, I’ve been using capture one ever since I switched to fuji (x-trans and Lightroom did not play well together early on) and it’s generally been fine for me, but from what I gather they’ve been pissing off a lot of people lately? C1 user here. While I am not pissed off, I am disappointed that I cannot do distortion corrections on a TIFF file. I also find their chromatic aberration correction tool a bit weak.
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2023 16:01 |
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# ¿ May 18, 2024 02:53 |
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Brrrmph posted:Maybe a cheese question, but anyone have a New Year’s resolution around photography? 1. Sell a bunch of gear I have not touched in the last year. 2. Don't buy anything except film and chemistry. 3. Pay more attention and think more (sometimes less) before pressing the shutter.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2024 23:28 |