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DJ Commie posted:Mechanical oil pressure gauges don't have flow, they have a column of oil with pressure behind it, and I've never had one get hot. Same with oil temperature gauges, they have freon or some other phase-change gas in the line, not oil. While this is true, if the oil pressure gauge, fittings, or line starts to leak, it'll be dumping hot oil into the cabin.
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Feb 3, 2013 20:11
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Devyl posted:Also, before putting them down in there, he shoulda made sure the holes were lined up instead of just going blind. The bolts still have to be torqued to spec. So you can't just back one out half a turn to make the lockwire easier to thread.
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Feb 13, 2013 14:17
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They add an auxiliary ATF pump to vehicles so they can be flat towed. Either belt driven off an axle or an electric pump to keep up the pressure to lubricate bearings in the transmission. About the picture of the truck with a worn in half rim. The post on reddit stated it was a flat tire which caused that.
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Feb 15, 2013 14:54
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You can't post these without the story... From reddit: So I work in the office and take photos for a shop. One day, this Jeep Grand Cherokee comes in saying that they heard a noise on the highway, then the brakes failed. Once we got the car to the shop via tow truck, a simple look underneath the car shows us what happened: •The transfer case exploded. Half of it didn't come with the car. •Shrapnel from the transfer case explosion caused nearby hard lines to sever or kink, and it also caused a fair bit of damage to the underbody. •To make matters worse, the driveshaft picked up part of the severed hard line (which went to -- you guessed it -- the brakes) and everything ended up as one giant pretzel. Suffice to say, it cost more than finding and fixing a brake fluid leak.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:45
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Dradien posted:Saw this while looking at some mining vehicle carnage. Makes me cringe. Holy poo poo, I wouldn't want to get within half a mile of that thing. Regular car tires are scary enough when they explode, that's god drat terrifying.
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Feb 21, 2013 15:01
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Root Bear posted:Another kind of oil pan mishap; rust from the inside-out! That rusted from the outside... I've seen this a couple times on subarus. Actually the worst one I ever saw was on my own subaru. I started scraping the bottom of the pan with a screwdriver to see how bad the rust was, and I loving put the screwdriver through the bottom of the pan. I had no idea how the gently caress it can rust that much. I'd think once it started weeping oil the rust would stop, but never underestimate road salt....
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Mar 18, 2013 14:33
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If you loosen your oil pan bolts a turn or two, it'll solve any rust on the pan forever 
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Mar 18, 2013 16:59
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Jonny Nox posted:How does one imbibe meth? You put it in your K&N cone filter and sit behind the tailpipe getting high to drown out the sadness of your rod knock.
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Mar 31, 2013 23:49
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Sudo Echo posted:At least in the US the hood scoop was trim level, not engine dependent. The regular Legacy (lower ride height, no roof rails, no two-tone paint) never had the scoop but all the Outbacks did. My 98 Outback has the scoop and it doesn't do anything besides look terrible because the plastic is sun damaged. It is real though, you can see daylight if you lift the hood up. It actually is more or less engine dependent. The legacy GT sedan and wagon both got the hood scoop. So therefor all the 2.5 dual cam legacy/outbacks had a hood scoop (besides 96 outback), and all the 2.2L ones didn't. In the impreza land, the OBS and RS got hood scoops. Then starting with the 2000 legacy/outback, no more hoodscoops unless it's a turbo. Which the US didn't get. Starting with the bugeye impreza, only the wrx had a hood scoop.
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Apr 1, 2013 14:45
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It's important to assemble an engine with the rings positioned a certain way so it builds up compression and starts for the first time. Then as it breaks in things can move around. And yes, the ring locking pin is stupidly important on 2-strokes. One of the ring lock pins on my moped somehow worked its way loose and the split in the ring caught on a port. It did a ridiculously amazing amount of damage to everything involved. Also made quite some good noises. I can't find a picture of that, although i do have a picture from when I kept pressing on with a blown head gasket. Finally it lost too much compression to keep moving, this is the end result. 
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Jul 8, 2013 21:05
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Another one that's hard to beat is an older subaru GL. Especially with a pushrod motor swap, nothing complicated at all. A lot of messy wires, but fairly simple to work on.  Related content, I 1200 miles from home living in a stupid house (ruining the driveway with leaky oil and rust), when my clutch failed. This is how I fixed that situation.   EDIT: I have a rather wide screen, maybe everyone doesn't timg'd the last 2.
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Sep 10, 2013 19:49
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NitroSpazzz posted:Advance, NAPA, O'Reiley, Rock, etc couldn't get the correct brake line for my car despite me giving the part number they said it didn't exist. Plugged it into Amazon and had it shipped to my door. Using them more and more often. I like rockauto because it often has pictures of the actual product. So if there are a few revisions or weird year splits, you can look at the pictures and usually get the right part.
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Sep 11, 2013 16:21
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A true redneck would (try to) shoot a hole in it with his ar15
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Sep 20, 2013 12:05
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Sudo Echo posted:No words. For the record, he logged over 200 miles on that repair.
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Sep 30, 2013 11:45
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Don't run them in a Subaru, either (for that matter, only use NGK in a Subaru). Anyway, I didn't know better, and this happened within about 2 weeks. gently caress Bosch plugs, they seem to suck in everything...
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Oct 18, 2013 03:40
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This is currently in the middle of the road blocking traffic outside my apartment.... There is nobody in it, it's just sitting there. 
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Oct 18, 2013 20:51
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So the dude came back in a cop car with a can of gas. Filled it up and drove off. In the last two months there's been a 30's ford coupe, jetta, full size chevy truck, and that. Run out of gas in the exact same spot. Although most of them make it into the parking area in front of the apartment building rather than just stopping in the middle of the road...
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Oct 18, 2013 21:13
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Terrible Robot posted:Funny enough the job I had at a shop was also like that, it was a small two bay with no office so every customer got to walk right in. I spent many a smoke break showing the ones who cared the E-Type that was perpetually taking up one of the bays or explaining just what was wrong with their Rover. As long as we weren't actually trying to work on something right then I actually enjoyed talking to them. I, too worked in shops like this. Sometimes if I was doing something easy it was fine to shoot the poo poo with customers while working on cars. But if a customer wanted to watch me do sparkplugs in a ford, I got kinda pissy and told them to gently caress off to the lounge.
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Nov 22, 2013 15:03
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Bugdrvr posted:Come on! You can't tell me there is anything better than having a big chunk of dirty slush go right down the back of your neck (god I am so glad I don't live anywhere near snow anymore)! The only job I ever walked out of was being a mechanic during the winter. gently caress that so hard No. 6 posted:I bet this car went sideways into a curb, the ball-joint failed and the control arm smashed into the rotor killing both in one blow. Judging by the rim being badly curbed right where the rotor is broken, yea, you're probably right.
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Jan 22, 2014 12:27
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Slow is Fast posted:Local idiot didn't change his timing belt or something: The story is that it's a high mileage piece of poo poo. He decided it would be a good idea to put some low viscosity cleaning solution through the engine (he wouldn't say what he dumped in there), but apparently all the cam gears are seized because of it. It's horrible dumbass failure, this is the same person who changed a transmission because he had bad shifter bushings, and then the clutch went out a week later.... I'm not sure how some people are smart enough to poo poo.
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Feb 11, 2014 01:46
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drukqs posted:Are you guys anti-cleanser? I used some pour-in buildup remover/cleaner of some sort before I did my first oil change on my CRV. Had ~120k on the odometer, nothing bad happened really. Generally, yes. I'm against magic in a can. My shitbox goes and stops somewhat kinda reliably, I'm not gonna go try and fix something that isn't broken.
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Feb 12, 2014 00:11
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My piece of poo poo old subaru (2000 outback (the 89 subaru is pissy and doesn't work well when cold...(or usually at all))) with almost 200k starts up perfectly fine when it's -20F out. Let it warm up for a few minutes then it drives perfectly fine... The transmission shifts great. If you have a sluggish shifting one you should either change the gearoil or light it on fire. Years ago I put a 2-stroke engine on a mountain bike. After about the first 5 minutes I got bored, shaved the head, ported it, put a better carb on it. And then the headgasket was like LOL NOPE. 
chrisgt fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jan 18, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 16:02
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Sagebrush posted:I don't see any gaps where gas could escape. You stick that thing back on and keep riding until it's actually a horrible mechanical failure Oh you bet gas was escaping. Instead of blowing a gap out of the gasket out it just hotspotted and MELTED the gasket like that. It lost power and made more noise for a few miles until it completely lost compression about a mile from home.
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Jan 18, 2015 23:40
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STOP loving SPERGING ABOUT HOW ANYTHING BELOW 50 DEGREES IS COLD, HOLY poo poo. Horrible rust bucket failure. This would explain why my car handled weird in corners... 
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Jan 19, 2015 15:02
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Goober Peas posted:The two pictures on this page were getting lonely. I hope this helps. I see Mellon Cat finally fixed his mirror!
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Feb 25, 2015 00:11
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Preoptopus posted:Why not just take the valve core out? Well I wouldn't get within about 50 feet of it, so I'll pull the valve core if you have a really long valve core tool.... Or go right ahead, if it blows up you might only lose your hearing and half the skin on your face.
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Mar 2, 2015 15:00
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The rear camber on my outback has been getting worse for a couple months now... It's been destroying the rear tires which are now pretty much bald, fronts are still great. The rear toe has been going off, and everything back there is entirely Caddywhompus. No more need to wonder why... I closed the back door kinda hard...  Hmmm... interesting...  This is bad...  Let's take a peek under the car real quick...   The whole subframe is swiss cheese. The car is sadly done for... You can see where the subframe is entirely cracked in half and the metal is just flaking out. I'm sure if I went in there with a chipping hammer I could remove most of the subframe with little to no effort. It was a good car, pretty comfortable, lots of room, a nice cruising car. But alas, I ended up with a free forester that needed an engine. So I took the engine out of the outback and put it in the forester (I'd already swapped a 2.2 into the outback because the ej25 can go to hell forever). I think foresters are ugly and stupid, but hey, a car that isn't breaking in half is always a bonus.
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Mar 6, 2015 05:54
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Shifty Pony posted:Something about that just gives me the itch to take it to a field and hoon around until it finally gives way. That would be fun, although it was on organ donor, and its driveline lives on in the forester. I was honestly worried I'd have to do another log suspension modification driving the outback around...
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Mar 6, 2015 19:52
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It's already been posted in here, but some friends and I were driving out on logging roads in the middle of nowhere, northern Maine. I was trailing behind with a car full of tools in case someone broke down. First this guy lost a brake line, so I did some expert brake line crimping. Then he was stopped on the side of the road.... This is what I found when I pulled some interior crap out of the way... Rear strut tower.  Of course I carry a chainsaw in my DD, so I cut up a tree:  Repaired as that car is ever gonna get:   He drove it over 50 miles out of the logging roads, very slowly... Then about 200 miles on the highway like that.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:15
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He'd only bought it a couple weeks beforehand, paid some outrageous price for it. RECENTLY REPAINTED!!!!
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Mar 6, 2015 21:27
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Fire Storm posted:I'm so sorry. Cancer is a hell of a way to go. If it was just the subframe that was rusted out, I'd replace it. That was a good, comfortable car. But alas, the rockers were GONE, quarters were going, the steering rack was so bad I thought I was driving a 90's f250, etc. I could replace all the parts on the car..... Or just replace the car, and sadly that time had come. Its driveline parts (which are all from the junkyard anyway...) will live on in the forester. As Cakefool said, a skeleton transplant was the repair. I jacked up the radiator cap and pushed a new car under it.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:23
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Ehhhh, change your oil every 3k miles and that doesn't happen no matter what oil you run. If you don't keep oil in there long enough to sludge up, it won't get sludgy. Generally people who change to synthetic oil do so because they have a slight clue about cars and know that oil needs to be changed, so you get a biased group of people in the synthetic vs dino oil debate.
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Mar 9, 2015 02:47
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EightBit posted:That interval is way short for any modern engine running synthetic. Jeep recommends 7500 miles for the 4.0, with conventional, ffs. Yea IIRC subarus are similar, but they have an "extreme service" OCI which is 3000 miles. I drive like an idiot all the time, and winter is rough on cars up here (as you saw from my poor old 2000 outback...) so I generally do it around 3k. I'd rather change by oil a bit more often than my engine...
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Mar 9, 2015 02:58
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This might help explain how bad the steering was on my outback... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QArPq_j-lEU
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Mar 9, 2015 18:52
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NitroSpazzz posted:
Well it had a torn rack boot for like 2 years (which is legal for state inspection in Maine...). In that time I did a few rallyXs, drove it through mud puddles, offroad, etc... Then I parked it because headgaskets in September. In December I had time over break to throw headgaskets in the thing, and noticed it had a bad inner tie rod, when I pulled the remainder of the boot off it left a pile of ATF/mud on the floor... (subaru uses Dextron ATF in the powersteering). Every time I moved the rack back and forth more mud came out. I think the mud was keeping it from having awful play, it was never the same after that. It also lost about a quart of ATF every 200 miles or so, I'd just fill the bottle all the way up to the cap when it lost power steering .... I'm bad at cars... chrisgt fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Mar 9, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 19:47
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drat that's pretty bad. I've never seen a rack get that kind of play. Did you hit something or did it just decide it was done?
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I hate cartridge style filters. They usually have a brittle plastic housing that breaks with the slightest provocation. The previous tech put it on way too tight and now you have to get it off without breaking it, have fun. And when you do break one it's a disaster and you have to go drive to a dealer to get a new housing or something because the customer is sitting in the waiting room ... Give me a good old canister. That way when it's stuck I can do whatever it takes to get the thing off, and who cares.
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Mar 26, 2015 16:18
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From VA? I bet it was driven on the beach, through saltwater, etc and never washed.
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Apr 23, 2015 12:37
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I've driven about 15 miles on a flat spacesaver before. It's not ideal, obviously destroyed the spare. But it got me to a tire shop where I could get my tire repaired.
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May 11, 2015 19:35
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Arrath posted:The worst sound is the metallic ting ding....and then no sound of it hitting the ground. I lost two intake manifold bolts changing the manifold on my car yesterday. I think they went into the subframe, so I just grabbed spares off a junk manifold in the pile of broken subaru parts.  This could explain that funny noise in the rear end...  
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May 13, 2015 22:10
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Sadi posted:So this happened on the way home from a rallycross. Ive never had a wheel bearing go from ok to failed in 200 miles. It was either a garbage bearing, didn't have enough grease, or wasn't torqued to proper spec. Or more than one of the above. I bought a ChinaPro wheel bearing for my outback a couple years ago, it lasted about 10 miles before doing that. Thankfully the rear bearings on the 3rd gens are units. The grease in the bearing after 10 miles was black and the whole thing was smoked. I don't know if they just resealed a defective part or what, but it was trash.
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Aug 3, 2015 22:04
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