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Freakazoid_ posted:I've never bought anything from monoprice before. Do they mess around with their rebranded products, or is this a simple sticker on an intact zowie product? I've had some monoprice rebranded usb hubs and they were identical to the original ones but with a different label. I think they just purchase them from the same Chinese OEM that manufactures for the primary company.
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2014 10:57 |
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# ¿ May 19, 2024 20:18 |
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Party Plane Jones posted:My MX518 is getting a little scroungey and I find mywpself wishing I had bought multiples of them so I could replace it. The G400 was the same shape as the MX518, as was the G400S. They've now got the G402 which is different but there are probably still G400Ses being sold if you want more of the same thing (with a slightly higher dpi sensor). The G400S has kind of ugly tron-paint but I don't spend a lot of time looking at my mouse.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2015 01:20 |
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Goo my G500 dies and reconnects randomly, and I've ruled out everything except the mouse itself. This is my 2nd logitech gaming mouse that died right out of warranty. Do I have any chance of getting a replacement? I really liked it but I'm hesitant to get another Logitech mouse. The most common failure is the braided wire in the USB cable breaking but still kind of being almost connected so it will work until it flexes a bit and then it disconnects. If it's still in warranty they'll replace it, if not they might replace it but probably not. I'd give them a call. If you're handy and have a soldering iron you can probably also fix it yourself.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2015 21:20 |
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Thanks, I'll take a look at the wire. Maybe I can fix it. I got a warranty replacement on my G400 a while back, but while I was waiting for it in the mail I ended up cutting a chunk out of the existing cable and rejoining it. It was a really lovely job but the mouse works perfectly (for now). This is the piece I removed because the bulge in the cable just outside the front of the mouse seemed like the culprit. I split out the cables and soldered them to a little piece of protoboard I had handy from another project, but it's probably easier to rejoin them inline. The hardest part is that the cables are super small braided wires so it's very very easy to damage them while stripping them: I laid the new cable back into the side channel where the old one went which has some 90' bends which may be an issue in the future, but I tried to do a little strain relief on the part that comes out the top of the mouse just with some heat shrink tubing. I'm sure at some point it will have another failure and I'll have to bust out the replacement G400S, but I may perform some more surgery to swap the shells because I'm not a fan of the blue weirdness on the -S models. I don't know if they'll actually match exactly but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. A cleaner job would've been to get the cable right into the modular plug that is there but after poking around at it I realized I didn't have whatever would be needed to crimp it in properly and I didn't want to mangle the plug so I did my fix just down away from it. The G500 internals will be different but I'm sure there are some guides to taking them apart online if feel like doing it.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2015 01:06 |
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Arcturas posted:What's the lifetime on logitech warranties? My M500 has started doubleclicking when I single click. (Not just in windows, and I've already checked the folder options pref) I like it and would rather just get a replacement from them, but I bought it about three years ago and don't know if they'll put up with that kinda crap. I think most are 3 years. You can call them up to see if they'll replace it but they may want proof of purchase.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2015 07:13 |
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RobotsLoveSpectres posted:Does anyone have any idea why my G400's laser suddenly stops working on my desktop while it works perfectly fine on my laptop? The most common failure besides doubleclicks is having a break in the USB cable. It's possible that the cord is flexing differently depending on which system it's plugged into and the bend is separating the tiny wires in the cord that are broken in some positions. Is there a tiny bulge in the cable right as it comes out of the front of the mouse?
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 05:17 |
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Anyone have any luck with a hard surface mouse pad? I have a big cloth one that's starting to get ratty, and would like to replace it with something I could just wipe off the Oreo leavings and Cheeto dust, and preferably something flat black that doesn't look goddamn ridiculous. I used to use the Everglide attack pad until they stopped making them, and now I use Ratpadz which are about the same construction. They're essentially a big cutting board style plastic with a smoothy bumpy texture. They last a very long time before wearing down and wearing down basically just means a smooth spot that's not that big of a deal. It's not a big company but they always seem to be in business and I've had good experience talking to their support when I ordered with a pre-paid amex and wanted to check that the charge went through. https://www.ratpadz.com/index.php If they get a little warped in shipping you can just bend them on the kitchen counter or on your knee to get them flat again. I got mine in 2008 and it's still in pretty good shape. It's smooth and tracks fine but it's a little bit flat where I normally mouse. I may get another one soon since they're only $25. The only downside is that there's only one size/shape.
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# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 07:00 |
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I have an MX 518 that the scroll wheel isn't spinning anymore, so I'm in the market for perhaps a slight upgrade. I was thinking of something with more buttons for the sameish price, but I'm not sure which one to get. G400 or G700? Or something else? The G400 and its successor G400S are exactly the same shape as the MX518. The G400S should still be available in some places. The G402 is the new spiritual successor and is a new shape but fits the same category of "midrange optical mouse" for logitech. The G502 is a their higher end laser mouse and is apparently very good, too.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2015 22:23 |
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Josh Lyman posted:The G502 is not a laser mouse. Oh right, my mistake, I was thinking of my G500. The G502 is a higher end optical!
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2015 01:23 |
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Vag Assault Weapon posted:Okay this switch from setpoint to "Logitech Options" for MX Master is pretty annoying. The default for the thumb button with Setpoint and my old Performance MX was this nice preview of all my open windows where I could shuffle them around, I don't know what it was even called but I can't seem to find its equivalent in Logitech Options, its default for the thumb button is just your standard Vista/7 alt+tab preview. Is it the 3d style windows key + tab combo that was added in Vista?
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# ¿ May 10, 2015 11:32 |
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calandryll posted:I've had a G500 for about 5 years now. I've been having some issues with button clicks. Sometimes it will register as a double click or I'll be clicking and dragging and will lose it. I'm assuming the mouse is starting to go. What's a good replacement? If you like the G500 the G502 is its spiritual successor (although it isn't exactly the same shape).
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2015 04:15 |
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Anonononomous posted:Is there some secret to get good Logitech support? My left button broke on my G9 and all I got from multiple phone calls and emails was being told to unplug it and replug it in. I fixed it myself eventually, but I dread the day I can't do that. I called them up and said that when I wiggled the cable near the mouse it would disconnect and I was pretty sure it was a break in the cable because it was bulging out a bit and I could make it do the same thing by flexing it there every time. They asked for proof of purchase but I won it playing world of tanks so I told the support person that. She put me on hold for a couple of minutes and came back on and got my address to ship me a G400S to replace the G400 I was having issues with. Before it got to my house I'd opened up the G400, cut out a chunk of the cable and soldered it back together on some protoboard, but that step is up to how adventurous you're feeling.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2015 00:14 |
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The Deadly Hume posted:Huh? They released the MX Master fairly recently, unless you mean something different. He means the MX518 style mouse which was the same shell shape as the G400 then G400S.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2015 08:38 |
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Lazy_Liberal posted:I've been using some old intellimouse for like a decade now and it hasn't worked right for the last couple years. If you have a set budget I'd just look at whatever's cheap and has good reviews on amazon. If you can go up a little bit there's the G303 and G402 from logitech for lower end but good gaming oriented mice. There's often sales that bring them down to $30 or close but their standard price is usually $40ish
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2015 02:23 |
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pandaK posted:Alright, gonna pre-empt all the obvious replies here for what I'm about to ask, I know what I'm getting into. This is the only one I've seen with more buttons than the G600 and its like. I suspect it's not very good due to pretty much vanishing from the market in a couple of years and it just looks clumsy to use, but here's the 18 button Warmouse Meta: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WARMOUSE-ME...=item25aa4e5f47
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2015 11:44 |
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chippy posted:I think it's finally time to admit that I need a a replacement for my trusty Logitch G5 v2. What's the modern day equivalent? You probably want the G502, it's their most full featured wired laser mouse and it has the scroll wheel toggle. The G402 is also good but doesn't have as many features.
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2015 09:12 |
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RiotGearEpsilon posted:My Logitech G502 mouse is great and I love it except that there's some crud in it between the right mouse button and the contact. It now feels 'mushy' - there's no satisfying CLICK when I push down or a POP when I release, and there's a barely-perceptible delay between me taking pressure off the button and the button releasing. I've stuck a compressed-air nozzle under the lid and given it a few blasts, but no change - whatever's there is mushy and aerodynamic. Do any of you know good instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble a g502 so as to clean crap out of the internals without wrecking the thing, or barring that, how to get Logitech to fix a thing? If you call up logitech warranty support they may just send you a new one or suggestions on fixing it. They replaced my G400 with a bad cord with a G400S and I won the G400, it wasn't even purchased.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2015 05:48 |
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Mutation posted:Well, now my G502 makes a sound on the mousepad like it's pulling at the fibers. 1/8" anodized aluminum plate.
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2015 09:39 |
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chippy posted:I understand that this isn't really a gaming mouse question, but I know that Logitech posts in here, so... I've lost the receiver for a Logitech K260/M210 wireless keyboard and mouse combo and can't seem to find a replacement to buy anywhere... am I poo poo out of luck? Is there by any slim chance a way of making them work with a unifying receiver? I'm not a logitech guy but it looks like that set doesn't work with unifying receivers: http://support.logitech.com/en_us/article/18069?product=a0qi00000069v2bAAA
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2015 14:03 |
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Ihmemies posted:After reading this thread and looking at the current mouse offerings, I hope my 7 year old MX518 never breaks. Or hopefully some Amazon or eBay reseller has still some new mx518's for sale. The G400 and G400S are the same size and shape as the MX518. They're no longer current but you can still find the G400S for purchase, last that I checked.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2015 15:08 |
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Are you interested in a $5 mouse that's more than anything? Look no further than quality Chinese brand James Donkey. I bought this somewhat ironically, to see what this $5 yellow and black colored mouse would be like. Surprisingly, it's not that bad, although it lacks for features. It has three DPI settings, 1000, 1600, and 2000. There's no software. You can't turn the LEDs off (although they're orange and not too bright). Might be a good gift for someone who doesn't care about features or someone who would also enjoy an ironic but actually functional mouse. Or maybe you just like yellow and black. Here it is next to my G400S: I picked it up from this ebay seller for $5 but there's probably other places that sell them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261599376179
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2015 23:38 |
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My ratpadz was getting a little worn down after a few years and I wanted a bigger mouse pad as well. I bought a 12"x24" piece of 1/8" thick anodized aluminum. I've only had it for a couple of months but so far it's great. It's got a very consistent level of low friction and so far there's no marking or scratching on it from the mouse. I'm not sure how it'll work out long term but it seems like a pretty good deal for $25. It does collect dust under the mouse a little bit more easily than a cloth pad with deeper texture but so far wiping the metal and the bottom of the mouse off every week or so seems to be keeping things working well.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2015 17:01 |
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Bakalakadaka posted:I have a logitech whatever the gently caress was popular like 4 years ago and it's decided to start dying (constantly disconnects and reconnects). Should I just buy a G502 to replace it? Probably, I got one for xmas and they're really good.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2016 01:18 |
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Jewel Repetition posted:I'm having a problem with my mouse's scroll wheel. I just started noticing it today. When I spin the wheel too fast it doesn't scroll, or scrolls one or two ticks in the opposite direction. The faster it goes the more signals seem to be missed. I'm running Windows 7 and I have a vague memory of having this problem before at some point in my life. Anyone know what could be happening? A lot of mouse wheels have some spokes that roll by an optical sensor inside the mouse. Sometimes they get too much dust or crud in them so they don't read scrolling correctly. If you're handy you might try opening it up and seeing if there's stuff in there you can clean out.
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2016 07:06 |
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Thread title needs updating: Should I buy a $150 mouse? Does it come in a kit form for less? I'd put that together. I'm considering trying out the Tek Syndicate mouse they produced. They went minimalistic with a Pixart PWM 3310 sensor, no software, and preset DPI levels. Their goal was an accurate mouse with a low cost. http://www.epicpants.com/t-shirts/tek-syndicate-gaming-mouse-standard-issue It's like $35 + 10 shipping but it seems like it might be a cool basic good mouse. Has anyone taken the plunge?
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2016 17:29 |
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Haha, yeah I was getting model airplane flashbacks myself. I think that's the most complicated mouse I've ever seen. That's too bad about the tek syndicate mouse but I guess they succeeded in getting that sensor available for a low price, so if that's your only consideration then it's good. I have a G502 so I'm set but I think the locked in DPI presets are probably what would kill that one for me since I go between 1600 for normal use and 800 for shooting planetmans..
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2016 18:04 |
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Vector calc for mouse nerds.
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# ¿ Mar 26, 2016 02:05 |
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Robo Reagan posted:Logitech has the habit of crapping out on me ~6 months in. Actually, I'm asking the question because my current logitech mouse is crapping out. Is the Razer Naga any better or worse? Never used any Razer stuff Razer is worse than Logitech, mostly. If you have a broken logitech call them up and they will usually send you a brand new replacement for up to three years as long as you have proof of purchase. They even replaced the G400 I won playing world of tanks that had its cable go bad after a couple of years that I didn't have proof of purchase on.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2016 04:05 |
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Yeah I'd expect almost all mouse manufacturers to use Omron switches. I replaced the one that double clicked in my old MX1000 and now it works fine. You have to desolder in some tight spaces to replace the switches in some mice, though.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2016 22:47 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:I have a Logitech G700s. Looks like it's an easy fix if you're not afraid to desolder the daughterboard with the switches on it and then the switches: http://www.khangfixesit.com/2014/03/logitech-g700-mouse-switch-replacement.html The comments say it's using Omron D2FC-F-7N switches which are a buck a piece on amazon and cheaper on ebay (like 5 for $2 or less). It'll void your warranty but I did it on an MX-1000 and it works fine now.
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# ¿ May 17, 2016 08:05 |
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Megalixir posted:Are there MX518 fakes out there? This guy has a truckload http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Logitec...AQAAOSwAL9Ub-6F I doubt he'd have so much good feedback if they were fake. It's likely just not that big of a deal because the G400 and G400S were essentially the same mouse with newer sensors. It's pretty cool that they're still out there if people want them, though.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2016 08:23 |
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Good news. The mouse was a case of disconnect-reconnect. Bearing that in mind, anyone know if Logitech still uses the same pinouts for their cables across the entire line? May wind up just grabbing a cheapo m100 (you know, the $10 one) and doing a wire-ectomy and transplant. A cord swap would be best but if you have to you can cut a chunk out of the cord where the break is and solder it back together. I did some bad surgery on my G400 after they replaced it with a G400S and removed the offending break in the cord: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3222963&userid=164239&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post441403431
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2016 02:43 |
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Bunch of goons with weird hands itt.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 00:13 |
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Goo posted:It's not paint, it's nickel electroplate. Individual chemistry for some people is incompatible with touching metal a lot. There are two people in particular internally (one in finance, one electrical engineer) that we can trust to melt through any mouse we make within a couple months. You could test them with some stainless for a high end mouse prototype. The Logitech G502 elite (don't tell Microsoft)!
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2016 20:26 |
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With a name like Pro you know it's gonna sell a ton of mice. No weird numbers to learn, just gimme the pro one!
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2016 18:01 |
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NihilCredo posted:I use one of these: That's really nice, thanks for posting it. I'm going to pick one up soon. I've got an ancient mouse wrist rest that I need to use that stays put unless I'm playing FPSes, maybe the allsop will be usable for everything!
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2016 05:33 |
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Finally, a waifu for the wrist.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2016 08:00 |
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Megalixir posted:What do people think of mouse bungees? I got a cheapo one on Amazon and it's been great to help keep the cord from dragging while I pay games. I only had to mess with it a bit at first but now I barely notice it. I bought this one, it's not perfect but it's okay: MECO(TM) Mouse Bungee Mouse Cord Management Fixer Holder (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IE00HTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kn5lybWFPTSQV The only thing I did was add a bit of twisty tie to keep the cord in the slot. It could also be heavier but it hasn't been a problem for me so far.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 00:51 |
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2' x 1' piece of anodized aluminum on top of a sheet of silicone if you give no fucks about aesthetics and just want a good mousing surface.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2017 18:55 |
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# ¿ May 19, 2024 20:18 |
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:I think I just wore out the mousewheel on my "diablo 3" designer steelseries mouse (I got it for free, but in the intervening years it seems the dog somehow managed to fill it with shed fur). Ergonomics vary from person to person. My old razer lachesis triggers my carpal tunnel issues and makes my pinky and ring finger all numb. Logitech G500, G400, G400S, G502 have all been fine. If the steelseries worked for you then you might want to look at their other mice, or even buy that one again.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2017 04:07 |