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I know this is a minis thread but I can't find a SA scale model thread is so can anyone point me to a good place to get 1/35 scale armour. Specifically the Sturmtiger 38mm mortar tank. I don't care which company the kit comes from but I want it for cheap. Thanks.
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Feb 25, 2010 05:36
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No Pun Intended posted:I don't have your answer, but Here is the scale models thread The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > Creative Convention > DIY & Hobbies > We Do It for the Inhalants - Scale Modeling Thread No wonder I couldn't find it, thanks.
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Feb 25, 2010 12:20
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lilljonas posted:I've discussed the plans to make a miniature company with my wifey, and she's cool with it. I'll start very small with handcast 6mm houses, but since I'll be away from home for almost a month I thought I would start on the homepage now, as I've never made a homepage before. It'll probably be horribly ugly, but still better than some of the worst abortions out there. After a quick scan of wikipedia for "Japanese Architecture" I found the following: Asuka and Nara architecture. The earliest structures still extant in Japan, and the oldest surviving wooden buildings in the world are found at the Hōryū-ji to the southwest of Nara. They serve as the core examples of architecture in Asuka period. So I'd say either 'Nara historical miniatures' or perhaps 'Asuka historical miniatures'. Basically pick a name of building style or a period in ancient history and use that followed by 'historical miniatures'. Don't be too specific when naming a company as you may branch out later and it can be tough to do that if your name is too specific. The best example around here is Triple play sports collectibles, which later added comics and then role playing games to its product lines as it branched out. The issue being that anyone looking for D&D stuff might not suspect the place called Triple play sports collectibles would have what they want. fake edit: or better yet use your last name or a super generic one (crossed swords is a local one for me) and let that name become known for what you make.
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Dec 23, 2010 15:36
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lilljonas posted:That's pretty much my thoughts as well, as it would be strange to be named after a specific period in a specific time, when I plan to even from the start have some generic Japanese houses that might be found in both Muromachi period as well as in Meiji. villageidiotminiatures.com is open as is villageidiotminis.com
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Dec 23, 2010 16:05
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Posting this question from the 40K thread here for Tuxedo Jack:Tuxedo Jack posted:So me and a few friends are getting into Dystopian Wars. Just ordered my Federated States Battlegroup today. (We drew straws, basically... As in, one dude called Prussians and the rest of us were like "DAMMIT.")
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Mar 3, 2011 23:02
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Can anyone point me to a good online tutorial for painting camo uniforms? I've found one or two but they are a bit crap. I'm using 28mm models, for reference.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:08
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Since the creation of the OP, have there been any developments in 6mm "dark age" minis, or is Baccus still the go-to for tiny Vikings and Saxons? And if Baccus is the best, where is the best (cheapest) place to buy them if I live in the US?
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Oct 7, 2013 17:03
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Serotonin posted:Definitely order direct. Pete is one of the best. If you email him what you need he can make you up any ratio of stands you need. Within limits. I asked about getting smaller lots of minis and he said that the packs are sold the way they are because each mold has that many minis in it, so to add or remove minis is a losing proposition for him as it means shorting other lots or spinning up a mold for a few of the minis it is intended to make (spinning being the most expensive part of the process.)
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Oct 10, 2013 15:37
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Does Baccus ever do sales? I know other miniature makers do seasonal sales around Christmas, does Baccus ever something like this?
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Oct 15, 2013 17:14
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lilljonas posted:I only remember some stock reduction sales, such as when he releases new versions of certain lines. Thanks. 6mm Vikings and Normans here I come.
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Oct 15, 2013 18:36
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lilljonas posted:6mm are nice indeed. However, they are not so popular around here, so I just ordered the new Ronin rules from Osprey. The club will have a gaming weekend next month, and I plan to set up a two player scenario that I umpire, or even a multi-player scenario. I read some reviews on BBG that said that the rules were ok but the scenarios and the rest wasn't all that, so if I make something fun it might even be worth putting up online. A group of friends have decided to play SAGA (the not terribly historical, but very fun) dark-age skirmish game. And rather than spend a bunch of cash on 28mm minis (or even 15mm) and making all new 28mm historical terrain we elected to scale the game down to 6mm. Most forces will only use 55 or so models, so my purchase netted me 3-4 armies worth of minis for $60 shipped. So far we have been playing with tokens and it has been fun, but I figure the addition of 3d minis and terrain will make the whole thing even better. I especially love that the standard playing field is 48"x36" which scaled down is 12"x9" (but I figure we might just go with 12"x12") The insane portability of the game is also enticing. A 12" square battle board, 100 tiny minis and a handful of 6mm terrain. The whole thing can fit in a tiny tool box. If you are at all interested in SAGA, PM me or email monkeypuncher00 at gmail dot com and I can send you some info.
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Oct 16, 2013 15:26
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El Estrago Bonito posted:For scaling down 28mm Skirmish games I tend to recommend 1/72 scale over something like 15/12/6mm just because it usually let's you preserve the original base size and movement/range scale. Which is defeating the our purpose for scaling down, extreme transportability and next to no space needed to play. Half of 28mm is 14mm, half again is 7mm, which is close enough to 6mm for our purposes. This way we just take 25% of the original measurement for any distances and it should be totally workable. Long distance 12" becomes 3", medium distance 6" becomes 1.5", Short distance 4" becomes 1", and Very Short distance 2" becomes 1/2". All distances are measured using precut measuring sticks so no dicking around measuring half an inch with a tape measure. Use 1/72 if you like, but 6mm is awesome and adorable at the same time.
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Oct 16, 2013 23:22
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Colonial Air Force posted:If you go 10mm, you can use the same measurement in centimeters instead of inches (e.g., if movement is 6" read it as 6cm). It's almost the exact ratio. After posting the scaling I proposed, I had almost the exact same though you did. Staying at 6mm for cost and general portability, but having the distance measurements be larger than simply 25% of the listed amounts. I will ask my group and see which is a more popular option. Thanks.
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Oct 17, 2013 15:38
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My tiny Vikings and Normans have arrived! Does anyone have a link to a good 6mm painting tutorial?
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Oct 30, 2013 18:24
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Mr.Booger posted:Baccus had a few up on the site, but I found just jumping in you learn alot quickly if you have ever painted before. I prime black, block in the colors from skin outward, wash/dip where appropriate (I use washes as I don't want to wash the whole model with ACW figs,I need the blues to be bright) This is advice I can use. Thanks.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:40
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Hey do you remember this post?Indolent Bastard posted:A group of friends have decided to play SAGA (the not terribly historical, but very fun) dark-age skirmish game. And rather than spend a bunch of cash on 28mm minis (or even 15mm) and making all new 28mm historical terrain we elected to scale the game down to 6mm. Most forces will only use 55 or so models, so my purchase netted me 3-4 armies worth of minis for $60 shipped. I sure do. And here are the first results. 10 Norman Cross-bowmen for a skirmish game scaled down to 6mm. 
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Jan 2, 2014 16:48
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I post Monty in the comics thread and this was today's contribution: I felt it might be appreciated here.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:08
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 I just went to my post history to find the dice sperg video and the jerk that posted them made them private! The nerve! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR2fxoNHIuU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxmkWrDbn34
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Mar 12, 2014 14:32
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God bless re-uploaders. I give you Lou Zocchi the dice sperg king.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:37
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I have made a longhouse and some pit houses for my 6mm vikings. And I am going to make some woods for my board (I found a great technique here). I suspect I want to make a pond and some hills as well. Does anyone have some tips or good tutorials for 6mm terrain features? E: any insight on how to make a 6mm wattle fence would be appreciated. E2: Pins for posts wrapped with two different thicknesses of copper wire, then paint. God bless Google. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 16:19
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dishwasherlove posted:Would really love to see a pic with all your 6mm SAGA stuff when you are done. Maybe with a banana for scale. Really curious to see how small a full board is. I'm building a portable playing board in a picture frame. When I have that done I'll do some glamour shots of the painted minis and terrain I have so far.
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Mar 27, 2014 14:27
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And now on with the show! Everything so far.  10 Crossbowmen 10 Spearmen 10 Archers 11 Cavalry 1 Long house 4 Pit houses  The playing surface. I have scaled the system from inches to centimeters for sake of expediency. The typical playing area is 48"x36" which for me would be 48cmX36cm.   I opted to go for a slightly larger board because I could. To measure distance for movement and shooting I made this  Very short=2cm Short=4cm Medium=6cm Long=12cm Foot troops move medium  So they can't reach these mounted troops Cavalry move Long  So they can easily reach the spearmen. Images for scale, sorry no bananas (you filthy imgurian)    30 foot troops standing on a tank. 
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Mar 29, 2014 16:42
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Ensign Expendable posted:I like your measurement template. Did you laser etch it? Yes I did. If you have a local Fab-Lab I recommend you visit it, they are awesome.
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Mar 29, 2014 20:42
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Ensign Expendable posted:Not on this side of the border The Northern side? http://www.startupcommunities.ca/communities/ Or the Southern side? http://www.fablab.mx/
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Mar 30, 2014 00:46
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Colonial Air Force posted:I haven't played it, but somewhere there was a nice write up on a blog. It was also in last month's Wargames Illustrated. What issue number is it? I don't want to buy the wrong one. Colonial Air Force posted:
Ditto. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 18:42 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 18:39
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TheBlobThing posted:Played a game of FoW with nearly fully painted armies and a pretty well-decked table: Compared to the number of tables I see in 40K with bare plastic armies and half assed terrain; that board is breath of fresh air.
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Jun 6, 2014 19:07
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TheBlobThing posted:Another drunken FoW game under the belt (including a hell of a hangover today). I played my Canadians as usual, my friend borrowed my 21. Panzerdivision Grenadiers. Playing Hasty Attack, he defended. My Typhoon did gently caress all this game, and I got really sloppy later on when positioning my Shermans and AT-guns. Only lost a single 25 pdr. but I still called it when I lost all my Sherman tanks and AT-guns. Gorgeous table though. I bought two new limited edition GF9 buildings that I got to try out, and I put static grass on everything: That terrain is so dense.  gently caress "two forests and two hills gaming" forever. 
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Jun 16, 2014 18:58
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Panzeh posted:To be fair, some games accomodate terrain a lot better than others, and one of FoW's strengths is that it plays well both with a few pieces of felt for terrain as well as with a loaded board, unlike other games. I get that, but playing "Run pell mell at the gunline and hope you are alive by the time you get there" is incredibly boring. I tend to react to more terrain as a plus in most instances.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:24
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Numlock posted:I use acrylic texture medium/gels, generally liquitex because that brand seems to be everywhere. Do this. Don't forget your 40% off coupon if you are going to Michaels.
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Jun 27, 2014 18:42
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Colonial Air Force posted:Figures that Wargames Illustrated would have an article on painting Brit Paras right after I finished painting mine. So write a polite letter to the editor advising them of your concern. It's a valid complaint.
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Jun 30, 2014 14:51
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I don't know if anyone here will care, but if any part of SA will, it's this part: Intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RO81x71xaqk Event: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOrjGT_u418
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Aug 14, 2014 02:10
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Is it really that big an issue in Historical War Games? Play whatever faction you want but save your philosophical waxing about how the Khmer Rouge wasn't that bad for your horrible blog. If you can't stop prattling on about how the Cambodian genocide is being over stated by historians and how Pol Pot was just misunderstood, I will just never play you again, you deviant. Shunning is a real thing, and it works!
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Aug 14, 2014 14:57
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Colonial Air Force posted:That's kind of what I was getting at, certainly what I think is the right way to go. You MONSTER!
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Aug 14, 2014 15:02
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As the scenery in the vids is mostly historic I thought I'd post here. Lindy Beige: Making scenery for wargames https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_qDkJFFNtE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VTTUyXOIAI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOYotmflDzE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl9PUJfRJTg Some of his techniques seem downright quaint compared to what some people do for scale model stuff; but I think there is good info to be found.
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Sep 23, 2014 17:32
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Arquinsiel posted:He seems like a dedicated luddite really. Got some great ideas, but very much wishes it were the 30's. Did his series of swing dance videos give it away?
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Sep 23, 2014 18:16
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Arquinsiel posted:Actually for me it was his video about his new camera and how the software for it was not fifteen years old and thus poo poo. Link please.
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Sep 23, 2014 18:22
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El Estrago Bonito posted:More of these fellows, pretty happy with how they turned out: Those minis are crying out for some leaf litter.  http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/24
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Oct 16, 2014 14:34
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I have some, but it just wouldn't work. For scale reference those are pennies they are based on. Bummer. I thought they were 28mm for sure.
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Oct 16, 2014 14:40
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Dirt Worshipper posted:
Who makes these? I'm guessing Gripping Beast or Wargames Factory, but I'd like to know.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:41
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Those are gripping beast plastics. Having seen both those and the war games factory IMO the GB are much much better. The lack of GB archers is a little annoying. But you may be right that I have been convincing myself the WGF were ok when in fact they are just cheaper and a little more versatile. E: What do you do about Levies? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 21:35
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