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My wife's 1997 850 5-speed.   It's slow and beat to hell, but runs great. Picked it up last year for $2,500.
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Apr 15, 2010 14:44
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When I replaced my PCV system I found out my flame trap was missing entirely. Not sure what the deal with that is.
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Apr 15, 2010 19:02
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So there seems to be a huge Volvo junkyard at the following address (pull it up on Google Earth, it's awesome) 13696 el dorado blvd, new buffalo, MI I drove by it today, and I can't find anything about it online - no phone numbers or business names or anything. It's a bit out of my way but I really want to call them and see if they have some items I need. Does anybody else know about this place?
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Jun 21, 2010 03:23
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I need a windshield wiper motor for a Volvo 850, anybody have a spare or an 850 they're parting out? My local LKQ only has a 740 and 760 and it didn't look like either would work. edit: nevermind, found someone with one on Volvospeed. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 21:52
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sbaldrick posted:I found my problem, looks like a small crack in this hose. Off to the junk yard I think that's just a ventilation hose for the ECU (which is in the box it connects to). There shouldn't be any liquid in that hose.
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Aug 10, 2010 18:13
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Crosspost from that other thread about doing things to cars and crap Replaced the Volvo's wiper motor assembly with a used (but working!) one I found for $50 shipped. I had help putting it in, too!  Easy as hell on this car, took a half hour tops. The new wipers actually have quickness to them! Since we bought this car a year ago the wipers have been incredibly slow, due to the apparently slowly failing motor which finally gave out last weekend.
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Aug 17, 2010 03:23
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Splizwarf posted:Fuuuuuuuck! They'll be replaced with SUVs  At least they'll still be selling them in Europe, so it's not like they're going away completely... we'll just have to all move there. That's all.
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Sep 29, 2010 13:49
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Splizwarf posted:Wait what? Where'd I miss that ray of sunshine? The article states, Geely Sucks posted:Volvo also recently announced that it will no longer sell wagons in the United States, citing a declining market for luxury wagons over the last few years. It doesn't say anything about its European offerings, and since they love their wagons, I don't see them pulling wagons from Europe. Could be wrong, though.
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Sep 29, 2010 20:54
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LloydDobler posted:Never mind the fact that $670 is rape for what you listed. No kidding. I did pretty much the same service on my 850 for a little over $100 I think, and it took overall about an hour or two because I took my time. There is no way $570 for parts markup and labor is anywhere near sane on any car unless it's some V6 or V8 with completely inaccessible plugs. If you just got a tuneup in the spring, I would say that 100% of what they did was completely unnecessary. Usually a tuneup consists of plugs, wires, cap/rotor, belts, filters and an oil change. Unless you drive a hell of a lot there is no way any of that would be up for replacement already (except maybe the oil change). Please tell me for that price they didn't just do plugs, cap, air/fuel service and that it actually includes all spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter, etc... because if they didn't do any of that you got raped hard. Seriously. Like $50 worth of parts and 30 minutes of labor hard. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 19:00
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SuitcasePimp posted:Thanks for everyone contributing to this thread, I have learned a lot of good info in the past couple of hours. I went to look at this 850 wagon today: According to the ad it had the timing belt changed at 60k (which they seem proud of) and the car has almost 140k on it? I think it's due for another one right away, someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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Oct 27, 2010 00:36
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LloydDobler posted:If you're talking just about the belts, that's a $250 DIY job if you include the water pump. It's $800 if you go to a shop. If you buy the parts yourself, it's more like $450-$500. My shop charged me $225 labor for the timing belt and water pump. I provided the IPD timing belt kit ($205 at the time, on sale). They ended up doing the water pump because it was starting to leak, and that was $100 parts cost through them, but I'd think you could get it cheaper online. (1997 850 non-turbo by the way, so exactly comparable to your car)
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Nov 9, 2010 18:13
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Car: 1997 Volvo 850, non-turbo, manual, 127k miles. My rear O2 sensor is shot. this is the cheapest I've found for a replacement, but why is a new extension harness required? Wouldn't I have the existing harness? Or do replacement sensors have a shorter length to them? Everywhere I check says the extension is required, so it's not just this brand or something.
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Jun 6, 2011 13:52
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Preoptopus posted:I had this in the stupid questions thread but Splizwarf was kind enough to invite me here with my question. Brake caliper: shouldn't be different than any other car crankshaft position sensor: I don't know where it is but it is in fact $50 at rmeuropean.com cabin fan: glovebox comes out and it's right behind. shouldn't be difficult to replace. driver's side heater: mine doesn't work either, should be an easy fix though. I imagine it's the switch or wiring that fails. Could be wrong though. Trunk piston: shouldn't be difficult at all. If those are the only issues it shouldn't be a bad buy. Note, however, that odometer gears break commonly on 850s as does the ABS/Traction control module ($30 for odometer gears, and there's people that fix the ABS module. I don't know how much they charge these days but three years ago I paid $140.) The PCV system on these usually needs to be replaced periodically - flame trap, oil separator, hoses, etc... I think the kit to replace everything runs about $100. The timing belt on these is really easy to change. Probably the easiest I've ever seen on a somewhat modern car.
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Jul 24, 2012 15:15
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Terrible Robot posted:Took the brick to the dealer for the fuel tank recall, in the process they discovered that my front left ball joint and sway bar end link are hosed. What years were affected? I don't have a leaky tank, will they replace it preventatively if it hasn't been done? edit: recall done by PO. sweet! CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Aug 8, 2012 |
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Aug 8, 2012 14:50
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goobernoodles posted:
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Aug 29, 2012 21:20
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This may be more of a general car question but since the car is a Volvo maybe this thread is the place for it. Car: 1997 Volvo 850 n/a, 136k miles, 5-speed. When driving, the front passenger wheel sounds like it's 'chirping.' It's the only way I know of to describe the sound. I think it happens whenever the wheel makes the slightest vertical movement. Tha tire has also been known to wear very quickly. I'm pretty certain the suspension is all original and could stand to be replaced and I want to think this is just the shock wearing out. Since this is our spare car/winter beater, I'd rather not throw an entirely new suspension at it. I'd like to get a replacement shock/spring assembly from the junkyard (is that even the correct terminology?), but is there a way to determine a good one from a bad one without installing it first? Is my diagnosis reasonable?
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Sep 11, 2012 21:39
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Cakefool posted:
Ugh, probably not a good enough one to tackle control arms. I couldn't do them on my E36 due to me not having a press. I'll take the wheel off and investigate further. May be a few weeks if not longer (I drive it about once every other week so it isn't really a huge priority) edit: it's LHD btw
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Sep 11, 2012 23:48
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So I think something is wrong with my '97 850's throttle cable. I put the petal to the floor earlier this week (to no appreciable increase in speed  ) and it stuck at full throttle for a few seconds, and now the pedal is really, really stiff. I see on IPD they have a separate cable for auto vs. manual... my car is a manual, does anybody know the difference? On top of that, it seems my hood is stuck closed. I don't know if it's the release cable or what, but it's going to suck trying to get it back open. How hard is the hood release cable to replace?
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Jan 18, 2013 01:21
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So I have a '97 850 that I'm fixing up to drive in the winter. I've had it for about five and a half years, and when I got it I sent the ABS/TRAC module to some guy in California to fix. The lights are on again, so I'm assuming the module is again bad. Who is currently the go-to person to fix these?
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Sep 4, 2014 19:23
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CornHolio posted:So I have a '97 850 that I'm fixing up to drive in the winter. I've had it for about five and a half years, and when I got it I sent the ABS/TRAC module to some guy in California to fix. Bumping this. I used Victor Rocha in California last time, and he was about $140. I've heard that there are cheaper and/or better people these days. Anybody know who's good offhand?
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Sep 12, 2014 16:17
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My 850 sat for ~six months under ten feet of snow completely hidden, and started right up when I put the battery back in.
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Sep 24, 2014 15:03
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I have a '97 850 with a bad ABS module. They're not coded to the vehicle in any way, right? If I pick one up from my local junkyard and put it in, assuming it isn't broken also, nothing else is required, right?
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Oct 8, 2014 21:59
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zundfolge posted:They're not coded to the vehicle, but the chances of a junkyard module failing again are pretty high (if it hasn't already). Unless you're really hard up for cash or you're not planning to keep the car much longer, you might have better luck coughing up the $80 or so that someplace like Midwest ABS charges to rebuild the module. It's my fourth car and sees about 2,000 miles a year at this point. I'm planning on driving it through the winter though, hence why I want functional ABS and traction control. If I get it from LKQ and it's bad, I can always return it.
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Oct 10, 2014 20:28
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If my E39 540i bites the dust, how bad of an idea would an early 2000s S60R or S70R be? Would a T5 be any better of an idea?
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Dec 16, 2014 20:28
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netwerk23 posted:The SR's went from 2004 to 2007, the later ones are better for a variety of reasons (interior trim, CANBUS speed, nitrile coated sleeve). There was no S70R but there was a V, wagon. I own/DD an 04 VR and love it. The T5s are more plentiful but less fun, but I'm incredibly biased. I meant to type V70R, my bad. Which ones came with the cool shifter that looked like brushed aluminum? All of them or specific years only?
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Dec 16, 2014 21:16
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Alright guys, weird-rear end issue on my 850. The car: 1997 Volvo 850, 143kish miles. check engine light on for various misfires and probably an O2 sensor, don't care, car drives fine. ABS/TRAC lights on due to left rear wheel speed sensor, which broke in its housing. Don't care, will fill before winter maybe. Aftermarket radio/Sirius installed six years ago, head unit stopped working a few months ago, fuse is pulled for stereo power. No tunes sucks but I'm reinstalling the factory CD player when I get to it. I don't think any of these are causing my issue. The issue: Starting yesterday, there is a buzzer that goes off once I hit 50 mph. It could also be a motor of some sort. It isn't a vibration or something fluttering, it sounds like a door buzzer. It's a very deliberate noise. It's coming from about the center of the dash, by the firewall near as I can tell. It isn't dependent on speed or RPM, and isn't related to the blower motor, the wiper motors or the windshield washer pump. It comes on at 50, every time like clockwork, then turns off once I go below 45. Like it's some kind of alarm. I've seen other people with this issue but I can't find a solution. It isn't any pieces of trim buzzing against the roof or any parts of the steering column, like people in that post were thinking. It's a buzzer for some kind of alarm or something. Anybody have any ideas? It's really. goddamn. annoying. I posted a snapchat of the buzzing for those of you that like to show your penis to strangers, but I can upload a video when I get home. But imagine a loud buzzer noise, like an apartment buzzer, and that's the sound.
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Jul 14, 2015 14:31
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LloydDobler posted:How do you know this? What did you do to rule the trim out, because the sound you're describing is exactly the sound of loose trim on the windshield. I use masking tape to tape the trim off for testing. If air can't get under it, it can't vibrate. Because it's silent until I hit exactly fifty, then comes on. Turns back off when I drop down before 45. Over and over and over. And it doesn't change in frequency with speed. I'll check the trim, but it really seems too deliberate in its timing to be trim. edit: it sounds like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qwq2A50oYKM I'll try to get a video later of it turning on and off. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jul 14, 2015 |
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Jul 14, 2015 19:32
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zundfolge posted:Your vid is private. drat, did it from my phone, missed where that was the default. Fixed now. There's another one on there. I'll do a long one tonight.
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Jul 14, 2015 20:41
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Here is another video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgR3KkeCfuQ I'll try the tape thing, it did stop completely for awhile right after I took that video. So whatever it is it doesnt happen all the time.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:06
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LloydDobler posted:At least try putting some wide tape around the perimeter of the windshield to rule it out, I've had Volvos make exactly that noise from the window trim. The wind gets under and lifts it and it oscillates at its own frequency. It's tightly attached, it's just the leading edge that flutters like a sax reed. I'm sorry I doubted you guys. It was the trim on the top of the windshield. I just have some gorilla tape across there for now, it's silent as hell now. Believe me, the tape looks perfectly in place.
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Jul 21, 2015 14:26
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Over the past few weeks I've noticed my 1997 850's brakes have felt firmer (pedal feel - feels like it stops halfway down) and weaker. I replaced the rear pads and rotors a few years ago but haven't touched the fronts in the 7.5 years I've owned the car. Brake fluid is probably pretty old. Pads have plenty of material on them in the front though. What should be the first thing I check?
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Jan 24, 2017 21:38
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angryrobots posted:Absolutely flush your brake fluid regardless. It makes one hell of a difference. I had ate super blue in my '96, it may have been slow but the brakes were strong and controllable, probably the best on any car I've had. I'm kind of afraid to flush the fluid unless I absolutely have to. I'm afraid the bleeder nipple might break off because it's so rusty. Had that happen on my truck recently. Not really a fun time.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:00
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ionn posted:If front brakes are good, my wild guess based on the symptoms would be the brake booster or its vacuum hose. Hose is dirt cheap and easy to replace, booster a bit fiddly. Failures/leaks there are often accompanied with some kind of hissing sound. The hose looks like it's at the bottom of the master cylinder and goes under the airbox. Is there a good diagram showing the hose routing? I can't seem to find one. I have a non-turbo if that matters.
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Jan 26, 2017 16:42
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That's what I thought. I had all of that apart years ago when I replaced the PCV junk. I didn't realize the brake booster line was one of those lines. Most cars it's a straight line from the master cylinder to the top of the engine. Guess I'll pull it in the garage this weekend and see what it looks like.
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Jan 26, 2017 19:34
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What's the lifespan of a timing belt from a 1997 850 n/a? I had mine replaced, along with the tensioner, pulley and water pump, in late 2010. In that time, I've only put 26,000 miles on it. Do I need to replace it? edit: nevermind, bought a belt. Just the belt though. Gonna see what condition the pulleys and tensioner are in but I expect they'll all still be good. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 02:16
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Good deal or bad deal? Considering buying it and selling my '97 850 5-speed. My 850 has lower mileage but is probably in worse shape. As a winter beater, a turbo AWD wagon is enticing. The snow tires I got for my 850 (regular V70 wheels) would fit, right? Or is there something funny with the AWD that would cause them to not fit?
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Apr 25, 2017 14:12
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LloydDobler posted:No fitment issues whatsoever. Only possibility is if the car was optioned or upgraded to 12 inch brakes up front then 15 inch wheels won't fit. But that's a big if, most P80 cars didn't have them. My V70 wheels are 16" anyway so that's not a problem edit: 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 15:23
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I am in desperate need of some help. I'm trying to keep my 850 on the road just a little bit longer. It's a 5-speed and the steel hydraulic line running to the slave cylinder has rusted through. I dropped the car off at a local shop a month ago and they've had no luck finding a replacement, but they're only looking local. I've searched the internet - Rockauto, FCP, RMEuropean, PelicanParts, Ebay, and found one and ordered it, but it turns out they were wrong and canceled my order. The part number from FTE is 9181437, and I believe it is also a Centric 15139001. There has to be some stock in Europe, surely. If I can't get this replaced I'll have to scrap it (which is probably where it belongs anyway to be honest). Where else can I look?
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Jul 26, 2022 12:54
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nitsuga posted:I’d think they could make the steel line themselves. If it’s the rubber bit causing the delay, hydraulic hose repair shops are another option. It might be worth looking for a different shop honestly or at least discussing this option. They mentioned it's the rubber bit as well as the fittings which they said were 'strange.' This is a fairly small shop in rural Indiana but they've made me brake lines before so I know they can bend steel and add fititngs.
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Jul 26, 2022 14:02
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