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My sister and her husband has a 2005 Volvo V70 2.4 (afaik regular B5224S engine) automatic, that just yesterday revealed a couple of interesting problems. First off, it won't come out of park. Sister said a couple times the shifter has been stuck, and only gotten it out of park after some wiggling and/or force. This morning when I checked it out (actually to troubleshoot the other issue), I couldn't shift it either, and I used all the wiggling I could and as much force as I dared. I can hear the shift locking solenoid click when I press the brake pedal, and the shifter feels differently when it's caught on that or the button on the shifter. I took it apart, and there was a third thing apparently locking the shifter in place. On the driver side of the shifter there is a white plastic arm that a pin on the shifter slides over, but that also can lock the shifter in park. A cable pulls on that arm lowering it a bit, freeing the shifter. That cable goes somewhere forward, but I don't know where. It seems this thing moves as soon as I turn the car "on" (not even turning the ignition on, accessory is enough). Seems weird, if they want something that only allows you to shift out of park when the key is turned, why not do that electrically with the same solenoid thing as the brake-activated one? This seems more expensive and unreliable. Here's a crappy picture of the white plastic arm, the cable below it, and the completely invisible shifter. Why is it there and what does it do?  Anyway, I just lubricated the plastic bits with PTFE, and hope that does it. If it keeps coming back and it doesn't add a lot of value, we could just delete it. A probably more serious issue is the CEL that lit up. Checked with an OBD2 scanner, said P0026. From what I can google, that's the intake VVT control solenoid being slow or malfunctioning. I cleared the code and it didn't come back after a short test drive (nor was it "pending"), so I guess it can't be that broken. There are unconfirmed rumours of the car being slightly slow under hard acceleration when it had the CEL. How do we troubleshoot this further? Just get a new solenoid and hope it does it?
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Nov 6, 2016 22:31
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LloydDobler posted:The cable thing actually works the other way, it prevents you from removing the key unless the car is in park. It is moderately easy to remove if you want to remove it, but the risk is now being able to leave it in gear when you shut it off and get out. Of course manual cars don't have it as well as a majority of cars made before 2000, etc etc. If it's going bad so it prevents shifting, you should probably remove it. The other end just plugs into the ignition switch. Aha, that makes more sense. It does seem to serve the purpose of "no shifting unless key" too. While that thing is somewhat useful, given the choice I think they would rather have a car that reliably shifts into gear. But I have good hopes some lubrication every 10 years / 200000km will do the trick. LloydDobler posted:I would double check it with a Volvo-specific tool, generic codes can be mis-translated. On the other hand those solenoids seldom die so you could just replace it with a junkyard unit that has high odds of being good, and that will be relatively cheap. On the other hand it could also be a cam position sensor which are more likely to go out than the solenoid I think. I think it's time to get one of those Chinese cloned Volvo tools, as the nearby family is full of Volvos (two V70's and a V50). I saw some table showing both OBD2 codes and more detailed volvo-ish ones, and that one had different ones for "inlet cam position" (P0016) and "inlet cam control" (P0026) (+1 on each for exhaust), but I wouldn't trust those to not get confused when the ECU tries to make its mind up. We shall see if/when the code comes back. Both VVT solenoids (used) and cam position sensors (new) are pretty cheap, but the sensor is slightly cheaper and involves no gaskets or oil so I guess we shall start there. I've wrenched on some 2.5T engines that only had exhaust VVT, but from what I remember both VVT and cam sensor where pretty straightforward. That was a very stripped race car though, but it should all be up top and easily accessible as long as I get the plastic covers off. It also amazes me that the Volvo thread in the cars subforum here is more useful than an entire Swedish Volvo forums thing.
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Nov 7, 2016 21:35
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angryrobots posted:Also I'm really missing my purple 850 turbo wagon right now. If I were to drive a Volvo again as a "regular car", I'd go for an 850GLT, or possibly a 1st-gen V70 with some kind of turbo. Pretty much the same car with a facelift, but I'd stick 850 badges on it to mess with the natives. Going down the scale of more fun+stupid, I'd pick an 850R or T5R, followed by a Volvo 480 Turbo. My full-on insane Volvo dream car would be a PV544 or 444 with a B5254T4 swap, painted in the blue/white/red color scheme of childhood rallycross hero Grus-Kalle:  Legend has it he had a compartment in the trunk with gravel, for more rear weight and better traction off the starting line. Once off the pad, he would pull a lever to just dump the gravel back out on the track to shed the extra weight.
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Nov 8, 2016 09:23
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alternate.eago posted:Any Links for this tool? I just searched ebay for "volvo dice scanner" or "volvo vida scanner". Seems to turn up a bunch of sellers with the same ~$80 thing. I don't own one and have never used one, so I have no idea how well they perform. Some internet people seem to have good use for them though.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:45
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Now that I think about it, every single one of the Volvos ever owned by me, family members and friends have had dead batteries at some point, usually pretty early in their carreers. Have personally had to jump-start or replace the battery in most of them. Battery-related Volvo story: About 20 years ago I used my parents 745 to move, and it was parked a few days at my uncles place (while empty, and no valuable stuff left in it). My aunt said she had found it with with the door not properly closed, which sounded odd, as I was pretty sure I locked it. When I got there later it was dead, I figured it was the dome light that had just drained it. Got a battery charger, but when went to hook it up I found that the battery was *gone*. Turns out someone had drilled a ~5mm hole under the lock on the drivers door to get in, and proceeded to steal the 5-6 year old battery (and nothing else). Police came and looked at the hole later, they hadn't heard of that method of entry before. Not sure if they had planned on coming back later when I had a fresh battery in it, since I just went on home.
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Nov 13, 2016 22:18
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Dagen H posted:1) What maintenance do I need to perform? Not much. Old 850/V70s are good work horses. Change oil on pure principle, check for oil / transmission fluid leaks, have a look at the state of the brakes, drive it until something makes noise or falls off. Maybe change timing belt depending on budget and philosophy. Of course you can go looking for trouble wherever you feel like, but there's nothing in particular on that car that is a missed-maintenance trouble spot. Sometime around then were the first with electronic throttle (depending on model/engine or something), and those early ones sometimes go haywire, but as long as it works it's nothing to worry about. If you even have one.
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Nov 19, 2016 22:37
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Terrible Robot posted:loving lol If the car is "soon to be junk anyway" due to age/mileage/condition, it might very well be a case of fixing nothing too expensive and run it into the ground. Unless you do the work yourself (or get it for cheap) that could include the cost of a timing belt swap (which is a "some money now vs maybe more money later" philosophical/economical decision). All depends on stuff. Sure, if this is a car you want running for many more years, do allthethings.
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Nov 20, 2016 08:18
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Terrible Robot posted:That right there says "I give a gently caress about this car and would like it to be around for a while". I do not at all believe I did, though I did make the assumption based on "neglected car from 1999" that it was a somewhat crappy old thing to just have running for cheap. Terrible Robot posted:and don't move the loving goalposts when you get called out on giving out bad information. We both seem to have set goalposts on either side of Dagen H's actual intentions with this car. Don't agree with you at all on the rest, but meh. Few of the maintenance items on this car are really different from any other 17 year old car (such as old timing belts and oil leaks and such), and things that are more common issues aren't really ones you must deal with now just because it's been neglected. Most things that aren't yet broken don't need fixing.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:05
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Dagen H posted:PO said he replaced 4/5 coils. I'm bothered by things like this. How did PO figure out 4&5 were bad, and what was wrong with them that couldn't also affect 1-3? A wild guess; another coil is going bad and it's intermittently misfiring.
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Nov 20, 2016 23:35
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Dagen H posted:Sorry, I meant "4 out of the 5". I have the 5th one, new in the box. Aha. In that case, swapping out that 5th coil sounds like a reasonable place to start. Did he get 5 new coils and replaced 4 of them? 
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Nov 20, 2016 23:48
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Dagen H posted:The coil for cylinder 1 is under a different cover. One of those where the cam belt cover is also over cyl #1? Dude, that's like two entire more screws to get it off. When given the chance to finish early, take it. IIRC, this ECU will give you per-cylinder misfire codes even with a generic  OBDII scanner (at least early 2000's models do, not sure when that started happening though).
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Nov 21, 2016 08:32
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Terrible Robot posted:Apologies to Ionn for being a toolbag to him the other night, it was uncalled for. No worries, I have thick enough internet skin. You were also probably more right than wrong anyway. Invalido posted:I might ignore to replace the water pump, or not. Haven't seen a video of that procedure yet so I have no idea of how gnarly it is, or how common it is for old pumps to fail or leak or whatever else goes wrong with them. I'm assuming that a water pump won't fail from age-induced dry rot like a rubber belt might though. Water pumps usually fail when the bearing goes and starts making an awful racket or leaking coolant. You can check for excessive bearing play or "roughness" by wiggling the pulley (with the serpentine belt off), but it might not say much about remaining life; It can sometimes tell you if it's bad, but it will not tell you if it's good. If you got the timing belt off (together with idler + tensioner), the water pump is relatively easy to change while you're there, and cheap enough that there is little reason not to (much less than the cost of the timing belt bits). Biggest difficulty with the water pump itself is just having patience to clean mating surfaces properly, when you're eager to start reassembling all the things you've just taken apart. If you can do timing belt, you can and should do water pump. I've only changed/installed timing belts on modern Volvo engines with them out of the car, and then it is pretty simple if you have decent documentation (of which there is plenty) since you can see and get to everything. A lot of steps, but none of them are really that hard. In the car, it's conversely to a large degree a matter of access, cleanliness and visibility. My mechanical white wale? Rebuilding a gearbox. I've taken one somewhat apart and gotten it back together, and it's still seems like magic. I also have a slight fear of drum brakes and carburettors.
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Nov 21, 2016 20:11
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Invalido posted:Brother Ionn suggests it might be worthwile for someone like me to remove the hub and/or strut assembly and whatever else is in the way for better access through the wheel well That's a decision you'll make when you get there. Some of the stuff involved in a timing belt job is done through the wheel well, and if something there is in any way obstructing you, it's probably worth the couple of minutes to get rid of it. Improves quality of life when getting to stuff in awkward spots. Especially if you don't have the car on a lift. I think all the suspension stuff is far enough back in relation to the engine that it won't matter much though. Same thing goes for stuff on that side of the engine bay (coolant reservoir and whatnot). Don't need to be completely removed, but just unbolting and shuffling them over a few mm can make a lot of difference for someone not equipped with long slender monkey arms.
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Nov 22, 2016 10:22
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If you get a kit with someones name on it, the individual parts are probably made by different companies anyway. If you're picky about brands, probably best to buy "a-la-carte". No idea who the OEMs are on those bits though. If I were to get one, I'd go with SKF since that was what Volvo was originally spun off from.  Edit: Also, Dagen H, the complete lack of ¨s in your custom title is mildly annoying. ionn fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 15:55
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I remember reading a test in a Swedish car magazine of various terrain-capable-looking vehicles driving around off-road. Mostly generic SUVS that couldn't get anywhere. Only two vehicles that got a "pass" where the XC70 and Hyundai Santa Fe. This was 10 years or so ago, not sure if things have changed (my guess, not much).
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Dec 7, 2016 09:12
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I guess it could be possible that one or more broken wheel speed sensors could cause something like that (not sure how the BCM acts if that happens). If it's currently behaving well, at least that's easy to test by just disconnecting and see if it causes the same issue.
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Dec 16, 2016 12:31
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My parents (as well as invalidos) have a 2010 V50, with a 2.0 lolpeugeot turbodiesel. I've driven it a fair bit, and I can't say much else than "perfectly nice car". It's practical, well-behaved, and fully functional in every way. Just a bit smaller than the V70s the rest of the family gets around in, and slightly bigger than the V40 (1st gen) I used to have. It's not very exciting to drive, since it's just "normal" in every way and the 136hp turbodiesel doesn't invite to shenanigans. Has a 6-speed manual, which suits that engine well (close-geared and low 6th). For long drives, I really like it. They've had it for a about 3 years, it's done somewhere around 130000km, and it hasn't really had any issues so far. Only things requiring maintenance that I can remember have been some minor engine-related things, but that only goes for that strange french diesel that I guess doesn't exist in the US. Literally everything else has "just worked" so far, can't remember it having any issues at all besides "diesel things". As for the T5, I've only ever driven or worked on S60's and V70's with engines called that, which weren't the B5254T3 or B5254T7 used in V50's but some slightly older revision. Not sure how big the difference is, but all the ones I've seen have been very similar. That engine should make just about any reasonably sized car pretty fun and snappy though. Craploads of Volvos badged "T5" on Swedish roads have some kind of tuning kit installed, and based on empirical observation it seems to work out just fine. The T5's in the V50 (and some other new-ish models) have the turbocharger integrated with the exhaust manifold, and I have no idea what the maintenance/replacement/upgrade situation is on that contraption, if you are thinking about a bigger turbo or something.
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Dec 23, 2016 08:19
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Apart from the T5-R and everything being suspiciously clean, it could have been almost any parking lot in Sweden.
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Dec 28, 2016 13:18
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CornHolio posted:Over the past few weeks I've noticed my 1997 850's brakes have felt firmer (pedal feel - feels like it stops halfway down) and weaker. I replaced the rear pads and rotors a few years ago but haven't touched the fronts in the 7.5 years I've owned the car. Brake fluid is probably pretty old. Pads have plenty of material on them in the front though. What should be the first thing I check? If you haven't had the front brakes apart in 7+ years you could just give those a closer look for good measure. Something like stuck slider pins can make things feel strange in a lot of weird ways. If front brakes are good, my wild guess based on the symptoms would be the brake booster or its vacuum hose. Hose is dirt cheap and easy to replace, booster a bit fiddly. Failures/leaks there are often accompanied with some kind of hissing sound.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:46
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CornHolio posted:I'm afraid the bleeder nipple might break off because it's so rusty. ultrabay2000 posted:Helps to get good and not crap flare wrenches. For the bleeder nipple you won't need flare wrenches, and you're probably better off with a regular 6-point 1/4" socket (8 or 10mm or whatever size they are). Flare wrenches are better than regular flat open wrenches at not rounding poo poo off, but not as good as sockets. However, while having fresh brake fluid is always nice, I don't think that's the problem in this case.
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Jan 25, 2017 11:11
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FWIW, my local (Stockholm) go-to dealer of classic Volvo parts has the same fromt wheel bearing part for 140, 164 and some early 240's. (I just go there for B20 engine bits, until the day I happen to acquire a 544 needing a restomod)
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Jan 29, 2017 08:35
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Are the banjo bolts M12? If so, they should just be torqued to something like 15-20Nm. If you want to google for actual specs, they should be the same for whatever turbo you have (Mitsubishi TD04?).
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Feb 1, 2017 09:03
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Pham Nuwen posted:what appears to be unburned fuel dripping out the back at idle? zundfolge posted:Are you sure it's unburned fuel coming out the tailpipe? It being anything but water condensing inside the exhaust seems highly improbable. When I was fiddling with base timing on my rebuilt B20 (Volvo-Penta AQ115 boat engine) last summer, google told me about numbers in various places saying 10, 15, 20 or 21-23° BTDC (at 1500rpm with vacuum advance disconnected). Not sure how different timing on B30 would be, most things being the same except two more cylinders, but the distributor is obviously different. Don't remember what I actually went with, it was whatever was in the most authentic-looking manual.
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Mar 5, 2017 12:20
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Me and invalido need to change a front wheel bearing on our dads 2010 V50 2.0D (for which we sort of have joint service responsibility). The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. How horrible should we expect it to be to press it out and get a new bearing in? I do have access to one of those screw-type wheel bearing puller tools which I have successfully used on a couple other cars (one of them a -99 Volvo V40), but I'm not quite sold on that kind of tool in general. Should we even make an attempt using that, or should we pull the steering knuckle and find someone with a proper hydraulic press to do the job?
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May 29, 2017 15:53
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Seeing as how this is from 3 weeks ago, I'm assuming you're already done with this, but I just gave up and had my Volvo dealer deal (heh) with this. loving idiotic design. Yeah, it got sent in to a mechanic. Didn't want to take it apart (balljoints and all) only to realize we can't change the bearing. They also had a look at the barely working AC, and found a leak in the condenser (not surprising since it takes the hit of things flying through the air). Said they wanted like $1500 to fix it, which sounds horribly expensive. The part can be found for $120, installing it should just be a couple hours of dismantling plastic to get to it (it's supposedly just screw fittings on it), and a regular AC shop should be able to refill it properly for not that much money. Has anyone here had any experience changing the condenser on a V50?
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Jun 22, 2017 14:11
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LloydDobler posted:Didn't change the condenser but it's pretty easy to get to. Hard to see how it really attaches, and it looks like there might be a bunch of the plastic poo poo in the way, but once you figure it out it oughta go pretty fast. See my V50 thread for some pics: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3814309 Oh, I somehow missed that thread entirely. Good stuff. From what you're saying and what I've seen, removing the front bumper and all the plastic crap shouldn't be a big deal, given some patience. It helps a lot that the car is just 7 years old and not the usual (for me) 20-25, so plastic clips can actually be removed in one piece. It seems there are half a dozen different versions of the condenser with different inlet and outlet diameters though, so we have to start out by going in far enough to measure it up and try to find the right one.
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Jun 25, 2017 07:27
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Saddamnit posted:Are Volvos really this unreliable? I'm thinking of getting one for my next car, but it seems like every other post in this thread is about another problem that someone has encountered. Doesn't seem worth it to me. Coming from a country where Volvo is easily the most common brand (and not at all a luxury brand, they've just started to brand themselves as that the last couple of years), they have in no way a reputation for being unreliable, on the contrary. Certainly there are some "known issues" but that is more just "the statistically most likely failure point / thing to check before buying used" rather than "something that commonly makes car break down". There are some exceptions though like the strange little V8, anything BiFuel (LPG) as well as some older-gen AWD V70/XC70. I know plenty of people driving their Swedemobiles year after year, with nothing but changing wear items (brakes, fluids, tires, belts, that kind of thing). That's certainly an anecdotal biased statement and there are other brands that are just as good, but I am pretty sure Volvo is not a generally unreliable car.
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Jul 3, 2017 11:37
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Yeah, at least on some models/years (including like everything up to early 2000's) that almost always starts leaking at some point. If it's dripping I'm betting that's it, other oil-turbo-related problems usually lead to smoke in the exhaust or fire. It's typically the o-ring where the drain line goes into the block, but it can be very awkward to get to depending on model. You need long yet slender hands and fingers, and with almost no room for a wrench you need to open up a pair of bolts (I think they're T30 or thereabouts) into the turbo itself that have been subject to high heat cycles forever. I believe there's a copper crush washer on the turbo side, that should probably be replaced too while you're in there.
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Jul 7, 2017 00:29
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What is that plastic bottle doing? Also, 
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Dec 4, 2017 08:43
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If I change the thermostat on a 1998 V40 2.0T (B4204T) without draining the coolant first, how much of a mess will I make? IIRC it's pretty high up, and might not be too bad, but I've never done it improperly before. Also I feel I have excellent odds on encountering at least one completely seized-to-poo poo thermostat housing bolt. It needs to go through the safety inspection thing before I'm legally allowed to drive it (and hence get to somewhere where I can drain it first), and as it doesn't get above 61-62°C there's a good chance it will fail emissions due to constant warmup enrichment. I figured I'd change the thermostat first and see what gives.
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Feb 5, 2018 00:17
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LloydDobler posted:Not a bad mess at all. If you clamp the reservoir hoses it'll be even better. I actually did this earlier today, since I'm not one to hang around patiently waiting for good advice. Spilled maybe half a liter of coolant, basically what was in the upper part of the thermostat housing and half of the upper radiator hose. Didn't clamp the reservoir, but after the initial spill there was nothing else coming out and the reservoir wasn't lower afterwards. Bolts were on the limit of what felt safe, but came out. Changing the thermostat did the trick, it now warms up properly. Then went to the inspection place, and it passed with flying colors. Only had a couple light bulbs out (the parking lights, which I completely forgot about and never use, and those where the two that were broken), but everything else was fine. A friend of mine owned this car a while back and took good care of it, then sold it to one of my colleagues, who just never drove it for 3 years. It has just been sitting there, parked outside, and the guy is now moving abroad and basically just gave it to me (and since I know them both and brokered the deal, I feel sort of responsible for its destiny). I just had to give it a new-ish battery, thermostat and wiper blades, fill up tires, struggle a bit to unfreeze all doors, locks and windows, and remove heaps of pine needles from every crevice. But it now just works, and appears to be in decent shape. Some rust spots along the door sill and fenders have appeared while parked (there was none of that earlier) but it still looks better than almost all other V40's of similar age. Can probably drive this for a couple months and then sell it at a decent price, and just give it some fresh fluids in the meantime. It's probably due for a timing belt change, though I'm not sure it will do enough for the value of it to be worth the effort. I foresee great struggles with physical access for my manly man's man-hands in there.
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Feb 5, 2018 19:57
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Yeah, I think the "official interval" is 150000km or 8 years for this one. It has a sticker on it saying it has been done at some point, but I can't read what it says (so it's definitely not done very recently). Car is at 215000km, but since it's 20 years chances are the belt is upwards of 12 years old. Might as well do it, it'll be fun they said! Access seems no worse than other cars I've done it on and as long as no bolts are seized too badly it shouldn't be a very big deal. Also, there's the scaling benefit of doing the same thing on my brothers V70. Learn on the cheap V40, do it properly on nice V70. Since it is the exact same timing belt + water pump kit, I assume the job is rather similar apart from purely getting physical access to that side of the engine.
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Feb 6, 2018 15:39
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ionn posted:Car is at 215000km, but since it's 20 years chances are the belt is upwards of 12 years old. My worst case guess was close to correct. I managed to read the sticker on the engine cover, which says timing belt was changed at 114500km in 2006-09. So it's 100000km and 11.5 years old. About drat time, in other words.
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Feb 7, 2018 13:09
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sebmojo posted:Hi, I have a 2004 v50 t5 and want to put a towbar on, could I use one from a 2003 v70? How hard a job is it to do myself, assuming minimal tools and competence? Nope, a V70 tow hitch kit won't fit a V50. The chassis and it's mount points are different, and they will not line up. It's possible that one for a same-gen S40 might work, but best get one that is specifically said to fit the V50. As for the wiring, the kit we installed on said V50 (2010-ish, a 2.0 diesel) had a plug that was supposed to connect to a CAN-bus driven unit specifically for the trailer light connection, but the car itself didn't have that unit. So we did the old-school hacky thing of just splicing into the wires for the lights themselves, and it just worked. I had expected the car to sense something was up with the current draw and throw a fit, but it was all happy as it was. That was the only real thing requiring any kind of improvisation, mounting the hitch itself was pretty easy. You will probably need four hands, but nothing fancy tool-wise.
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Feb 21, 2018 21:21
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Automotive sanity: V70 XC. Honor and glory: V70R.
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Feb 23, 2018 18:39
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A Bad Poster posted:The all wheel drive on mine definitely still works. Ended up doing some unexpected offroading because Google decided that a logging track which was barely more than some tire ruts through the woods was the best way to get where I was going. You had just bought an AWD vehicle and would like the opportunity for a bit of a shakedown. Google knows that kind of stuff.
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Mar 15, 2018 13:22
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I have had many an old Volvo and the headlight washers/wipers are almost always in some way broken when I got them or very shortly thereafter. Most interesting one was where the endstop on one side was malfunctioning so the wiper would keep going for 20 minutes or so and then stop at some random angle. If all that is broken is a wiper blade I may fix that, but at any sign of other trouble I generally unscrew the wiper arms, disconnect the motors, and fold the washer hoses over and zip-tie them shut and leave it at that. For the non-ancient washer-only ones, I think they just pop out from the washer fluid pressure so all you need to do is block the hose. There are some though that have their own pump for the headlights, and there I guess you could just unplug the cable or maybe even put it on its own switch.
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Mar 16, 2018 14:31
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At that time, I don't think any of the car manufacturers had really figured out how to deal with an offset front hit. That 940 is still a glorious tank with it's not-quite-but-almost moose-proof A-pillars.
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Mar 28, 2018 07:45
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This weekend me and Invalido are doing a double-header timing belt change on a pair of Volvos. A 1998 V40 2.0T (B4204T), and a 2002 V70 2.4 (B5244S2), both featured previously in this thread. They have the exact same timing belt kit, which we got two of. Belt, idler, tensioner, water pump. SKF branded (at one point the parent company of Volvo!), but not sure who actually makes the non-bearing parts of it. The water pumps came with paper gaskets. Are we better off using those gaskets, or RTV silicone goop? Also last time I did a timing belt on a Volvo engine was about 5 years ago, and that engine was outside the car. What is the #1 thing we should look out for to avoid loving it up?
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Apr 11, 2018 10:52
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 21:50 |
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LloydDobler posted:Yeah I use a thin layer of RTV to glue the paper gasket to the pump and then a thin layer on top of that. Probably overkill. Such lavish exuberance!? I would have thought just having more "sealing surfaces" meant higher risk of failure. if I just mess up any of them or they somehow fail it will leak. My thought was that if RTV silicone can be used "safely" (it's possible to clean surfaces well, put silicone on pump, and move pump into place without inappropriate touching of other parts with sticky goop). Maybe both silicone and gasket is the way to go. For both these cars this is likely the last timing belt they will ever get, so there is little concern for how easy this is to remove. LloydDobler posted:On the 02 you'll want to turn the engine 90° past TDC and then back, which will unload the variable timing pulley. Not super critical but makes the job easier. Otherwise the pulley springs away from its mark when you take the belt off, and you have to hold it while putting the belt on. This is excellent advice, thank you. I don't have a cam locking tool for Volvo and I was hoping it wouldn't be necessary to get one. This will help in that. LloydDobler posted:Also before you begin this job pop the timing covers off (one bolt) and visually make sure they both have the same tensioner, I would have thought the 98 would be old generation with the piston vs the new eccentric spring version on the 02. The car parts website I got it from had exactly the same parts for both of them when I entered the car details (lookup via license plate, but they have the engine code and everything), so I hope they are correct. The 2.0T (B4204T) was new for the 1998 model year, so it may be a bit newer than the mid-90's engines. Humbug posted:I did the timing belt on my 850 with the B5252S last month. I'm no expert but a big thing is having a low profile T45 torx drive for the tension pulley that doesn't foul on the wheel well. I ended up using a box end imperial wrench directly around the bit. The Biltema torx kit bits didn't fit for me (you're in Sweden right?) but with the shorter 2.0T, that might not be such a huge issue. You're talking about the tensioner for the serpentine belt, right? I have possibly the very same Biltema 71516 torx bit set. Hadn't thought much of it but it looks like access might be difficult if I need to stack bits, bit holder and ratchet. Maybe I should just get a 3/8" wrench to be safe (I have a set of inchie wrenches, but they're in the wrong location at the moment). Could even get a bunch of those L-shaped torx things and just return them if I don't need them. How I often roll, buy all the tools at Biltema and just keep the ones that prove useful. Some items I have bought and returned more than once. The four-cylinder engine is a whole cylinder shorter, but the V40 engine bay is also narrower (though probably not by quite that much). There are some other differences in what stuff goes where (power steering and coolant reservoirs, fuse boxes, ECUs and such) so the amount of room is a bit differently shaped. Another general question on the topic: There's at least one youtube video where the dude does not remove the serpentine belt pulley / harmonic balancer from the crankshaft, but just wrangles the belt around the pulley after removing the bottom cover part. Is that a good idea? It seems to me that unless the pulley is seized and stuck, it's better to remove that for better access and visibility. Are those small bolts likely to break, or could the center one just be very very stuck?
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Apr 12, 2018 13:11
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