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If it turns out the speakers are old and need to be replaced in my amp, what should I get? It's a MusicMan 212 HD 130. I play bass out of it as well as guitar; guitar for practice, gigs and recording, and the bass for recording purposes only (and it sounds fantastic in this regard by the way). Some sort of Webers would be nice, but I'm thinking that's a little bit pricey for an amp worth about $500 or so, especially considering I just threw $300 into it for tubes, biasing, and a crapload of other work, and it's still a bit too noisy to justify a lot more. Something from here or some place with similar pricing would be nice, but I don't know anything about something this specific...
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Jul 7, 2010 04:15
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There are lots of kinds of Celestions and this amp pushes out a gigantic amount of power; what should I get? Do any of the Celestions available in the Avatar overstock link make sense?
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Jul 7, 2010 04:29
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the wizards beard posted:If your guitar speakers are shot maybe you should take that as a sign that you shouldn't play bass through them. Sounds way too good out of this amp not to do it so I think instead I'll try to find something that can handle both reasonably well but thanks for this incredibly obvious suggestion!
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Jul 8, 2010 04:35
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I think I'll instead try to get something that works with the amp I've got but thanks anyway  If I have a conversation with professionals who have lots of experience and know-how I'll definitely post something here so we could have the value of their wisdom.
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Jul 8, 2010 05:53
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Fron Bolster posted:I think everyone's made the point that bass playing will quickly destroy guitar speakers, but since you're only using it to record, you could get around that by buying a DI, instead. Except it's entirely possible that part of what sounds so good are the guitar speakers as well as the amp itself...
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Jul 15, 2010 01:18
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It's entirely possible that part of what sounds so good are most any sort of guitar speakers one might expect in an amp of the sort I use, as well as the amp itself...
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Jul 15, 2010 02:20
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Fron Bolster posted:No doubt, but you will just end up shredding the new speakers if you keep doing this. Not to mention that it's difficult to properly mic bass amps without a massive room. I get a fantastic results (according to my tastes), considering the equipment I use. It's entirely possible I'll shred guitar amp speakers, but it's also entirely possible that at the SPLs I'm generating, there is an option out there that will still work for my guitar amp, and be robust enough not to deteriorate terribly rapidly, and still sound fantastic for guitars. These particular (stock, original, 35 year-old) speakers have had bass ploughing through them for three years and only recently has there been any buzzing anywhere in the amp. I'm not even sure it's not something else just rattling around, I still have to take it to my tech.
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Jul 16, 2010 01:07
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the wizards beard posted:If it works, it works, I guess. I would at least try a couple of bass cabs - you'd find out if it's the amp or the guitar speakers that you like. You might even prefer a different set of speakers This thread has convinced me to do just that. Any recommendations for someone who likes what comes out of a clean, hilariously overpowered, Fender-designed guitar amp when using a bass?
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Jul 16, 2010 20:55
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Spoke with Jeff at Velvetone Valve Works in Seattle and have my amp (MusicMan 12x2 130 HD)(the all valve version) in his hands for repair; he has yet to replicate a rattling I've managed to hear at medium volumes with a guitar, after over five years of playing a bass through it for recording. I'd assumed it broke from the bass, although I acknowledged the possibility that it's simply that the amp is older and in need of service. There was a debate earlier about whether or not the amp I was using (a guitar amp) might be used for bass work in a recording environment. There were two criticisms: a) The amp wasn't giving me anything "unique" which I might find more easily in a rig designed specifically for a bass guitar. b) I was destroying my guitar amp by playing a bass guitar through it. Turns out in his opinion, neither of these criticisms hold any water. As for a), he said that by-and-large, the drivers (aka speakers) were the primary difference-maker insofar as coloring my bass once it arrived at the amplifier. "If you plugged your amp into a different cab, it would sound nothing like your cab plugged into a different amp unit. The cab, more than any other aspect of the combo amp you are using, determines how your bass might sound when played through the unit." b): "Play your bass through your amp, and slowly turn up the master until you hear the cab drivers starting to distort. You'll determine this because the speakers themselves will start to sound "farty" or more or less like they are flapping in their enclosures. This is the limit of how high you can turn up your bass in your guitar cab, make sure you play below this threshold." So: a) the speakers in my amp are what make my basses sound the way I like so much, and buying a different cab, and even driving this same amp through it, I'll not get a sound similar, and, likely, nothing I like, given that I'm used to the MusicMan's speakers. b) the whole "DON'T PLAY A BASS THROUGH A GUITAR AMP" is mostly an old wive's tale, especially when the bass playing is singularly in a recording environment, where rarely does the amp get driven anywhere near the point of speaker failure.
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Sep 30, 2010 07:17
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Side Effects posted:I think the assumption we had when you first posted your problem was that you were playing at above-bedroom levels, like if you were using the amp at gigs where a higher volume is required. The higher volume makes all the difference in the life of the speakers. No worries; I thought I'd been clear that I'd been playing a bass through it for five years and solely for recording, but I guess I didn't state it well enough. In any event, I didn't want to thread poo poo and run, especially when I wrote that I'd do some research and report my findings afterward
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Oct 1, 2010 00:00
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Boz0r posted:If I get an amp head without having a cabinet, can I hook that up to a PA system, or should it always go through a mic'ed cabinet? http://www.marshallforum.com/85058-post15.html
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Oct 8, 2010 17:48
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Jargon thread would be cool Podtats??? ahahaha
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Dec 25, 2010 02:51
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donut posted:Assuming there's nothing wrong with it, aside from the missing tube, would a decent tech be able to figure out what tube ought to be there? Consider calling this guy His name is Jeff and he's great with amps and could probably get you a referral or help you out if you took good photos
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Jan 27, 2011 07:36
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Who is this magical amp-maker 
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Feb 3, 2011 05:50
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If you have a shitload of money you should
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Nov 26, 2011 23:13
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Graybar, Platt Electric, Grainger
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Jan 26, 2012 01:44
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rt4 posted:I know you can hurt a guitar speaker by playing loud bass through it, but will loud bass hurt the amp itself? Even guitar speakers are for the most part really durable. Word from the guy I use who is an amp tech 2 the stars is that you can turn it up until you start to hear the cone start to get "farty" and that's where you've exceeded the thing's maximum-designed SPL for those frequencies, and should dial it back a notch from there. There is no risk of damaging the circuitry
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Apr 15, 2012 19:29
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Noise Machine posted:Have a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe that has a really low-buzzy hum to it that's responsive to the notes I play, especially down on the E string. I replaced the power amp tubes but it's still there. I'm thinking either it's the preamp tube or the speaker is just blown/damaged. I could record a sound sample for better diagnoses. Usually this is damage to the cone; they can be easily repaired by a technician or if you feel like tackling it too. There's this adhesive that fixes tears and things, a usual cause of this is the tines on a combo amp's cable tearing the cone during transport. You hit a bump or something and the plug is in the back of the amp, and there ya go: torn cone.
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May 24, 2012 01:48
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Noise Machine posted:Do you have any suggestion for guides on how to repair this myself? I see a bunch but I don't know which ones to trust. PM sent
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Jun 21, 2012 14:44
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Handen posted:On that note, the Sovtek is wired at 8Ω impedance, with the two 25W speakers in parallel giving it max 50 watt rating, no? So am I in for any trouble by using a 60 watt head with a cabinet wired for 50 watts? Not at all
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Aug 30, 2012 06:40
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nrr posted:Any suggestions or advice would be mucho apreciated. I might supplement my MusicMan 212HD 130 combo at some point, but it's so versatile that I'll always have it nearby. It's a bit loud and heavy for your needs, but if you're interested in a Fender, make sure to look for any used MM's in your area. They are traditionally undervalued so you can usually pick up a good deal. I'm thinking like a MM 65 Reverb, or a 210 65 combo, something like that. Even the single speaker MusicMan amps are pretty cool. Try to get an older one with the valve serving as a phase inverter. Please note however that if one of these has its original tubes, they're going to need replacement sooner than later, same with some of the caps. If you can get the owner to give you a look at the chassis, you could probably get an idea of the amp's overall care through the years. All I really wanted was something loud as gently caress with tons of headroom, but it turns out that with 130 watt / 65 watt options, and the low / high inputs, I've really got a flexible rig. I agree with you that LPs are a good combination with Fender-y amps like the MusicMan... if you're going for bluesy, I think it sounds best to have the amp (scooped) and the guitar (warm) sort of in competition with one another. If you had a single coil guitar I'd tell you to go for some sort of Marshall clone, for example.
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Jan 25, 2013 00:13
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Warcabbit posted:I'm going to point out, such as it is, that I believe the Beatles didn't play with anything bigger than a 30 watter till they hit Shea Stadium. Am I wrong? Back in the day, before METAL, amps really didn't have that much juice. A surprising amount of the songs you love came out of an old 5 watt Fender Champ. (tube amp, classic) A Fender Champ is kind of a special flower because it's a true class A amp in a sweet spot where the nice harmonics and overtones occur at a non-ridiculous volume level, so it makes a perfect amp for recording in the studio. As others have posted, something like that would probably be overpowered if it didn't have a PA. Krustic posted:I try the super champ xd every time I go to guitar center. It's the best sub 300 dollar practice amp I've ever used. The peavey classic 30's are really good amps too. I've tried the blues junior and I liked the peavey better although the peavey didn't seem that much louder even though it's twice wattage. I also wouldn't recommend getting an amp much larger than 30 watts without an attenuator. I've heard good things about smaller Peavy amps constantly, and so I assume they are in that middle ground where they are really versatile in terms of the sort of genre someone is interested in playing... but I'm shallow so the really dumb logo has always turned me off. The amperage in those lower-watt amps really just means you get more "clean" space before breakup; for more SPLs (loudness) you have to look for more efficient drivers (loudspeakers) that are rated for the resistances which your amp uses. Anything tube that is over, say, 30 watts is generally for high gain situations (the Vox AC30 being an exception in that it's generally considered very powerful for its rated wattage, not that anybody playing with super-saturated gain is going to be interested in a chimey Vox). nrr posted:I've also heard some solid things about the Fender Super Champ in the guitar thread. Any opinions on that? I really wanted to stay away from modelling stuff, but it's being made to sound pretty damned impressive. I haven't ever seen Super Champs being played in the Seattle indie scene, not that that means much. In general, I'd simply say that something you really are going to want is an amp that has on it somewhere the ability to remove all the "features" from your tone loop. For example, the MM I play has two channels (high / low) with a reverb spring and a tremolo circuit, and two channels (high / low) which bypass that functionality. Any modeling or effects functionality are going to introduce more stages between your pickups and the power tubes, and rob you of that "little extra something" for which you might be looking. For as long as I can remember, if I were playing my amp, it meant it was set to HIGH (130 watts)(4 power tubes), plugged into channel 1 (high gain), on the effects-enabled side. And that's fine, if you want to play the amp LOUD. It's only recently (needing to play more quietly in my current living situation, but still wanting some good tone) that I've been using the amp on LOW (65 watts)(2 power tubes), plugged into channel 2 (low gain) on the side which bypasses the reverb and tremolo. MusicMan amps were the first major amp manufacturer to delve into hybrid circuits (solid state preamp, valve power section), but I have to say that I haven't been happier with the sort of lovely timbre emitting from my amp since I started to experiment a bit with some of its features which I never understood before now. You'd never know it had anything solid-state in it; the breakup is totally organic, its responsiveness to touch is remarkable. Your situation is problematic because once you finally get somewhere where you can experiment you're going to feel the pressure to buy now. If you get into town make sure to check out any used music stores, not just the ones selling new product. And when you do, don't think twice about plugging into every input, fiddling with every knob, flipping every toggle switch, and stomping every foot pedal. You might find yourself surprised at what you discover interests you. For me, I suppose I'm fortunate because everything that sounds like something that would give me a genuinely different, but equally good range of tones is, like, some Marshall 60s / 70s reissue that costs $2500. It keeps my (lack of) money right in my wallet edit: As far as your P-90 guitar is concerned, generally they are fairly high output so what sounds good with the humbuckers likely would represent the P-90 pickups equally loyally. Schlieren fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Jan 25, 2013 |
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Jan 25, 2013 09:38
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nrr posted:Whoever asked for pics and recordings, I'll put some pics up soon but unfortunately haven't had any time to do any recordings with it. I didn't ask but pretend I already did ok
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Feb 11, 2013 06:25
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scuz posted:It sounds a little flubby and dirty during palm-muted chords and I think part of it is the Tele, and the other part is the amp itself. Like HollisBrown suggested, this sounds like a problem which could be fixed by looking into different drivers with tighter response; Fender's stock drivers are usually middle-of-the-road Eminence-brand models, IIRC. Or it might clear up after the amp / drivers are broken in a bit, or maybe if there were a lot of moisture where the amp was being kept, that'd result in that sort of flubby effect as well. Testing if it's the guitar or not is the first and easiest thing to check of course.
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Mar 16, 2013 22:45
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Chalets the Baka posted:I'd like some input regarding a small dilemma I'm having regarding a new amp purchase. Invest in an attenuator; don't compromise what you want in sound
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Jun 17, 2013 09:25
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Declan MacManus posted:I've got a Crate V32 Palomino with EL84s in it and I've decided to replace the stock speaker. I was wondering what some good options might be? I was thinking an Alnico Blue because, well, 30 watt EL84 makes me think Vox, but I don't honestly know all that much about speakers. 1) Speakers are going to sound differently in different cabs, 2) Speakers have to be broken-in a bit so don't judge them fully right off the bat, 3) Speakers can dramatically alter the sound of your amp, so if I were you I'd try to find someone who you trust who knows a lot about this sort of thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWK0sa7tlfI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPPMiZeYMVo
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Jul 14, 2013 20:57
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I've spent three or four hours comparing different samples online and gee whiz, Jensen Blackbirds sound the best to my ears. $257 a piece 
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Jul 15, 2013 07:43
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Declan MacManus posted:I don't know of anyone who designs amps specifically for fuzzed out stoner/doom metal, Uhhhhh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teii3AK8yOc Schlieren fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 08:16
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Francodipshit posted:Vox AC-30 I always end up liking how a 15 sounds a lot more
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Aug 18, 2013 00:49
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That's a pretty sweet F2P MMO typset on that cab. When does it get out of beta again?
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Oct 29, 2013 06:27
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Noise Machine posted:After some testing the speaker to my Hot Rod is shot. Anyone got any cheap-ish options? I'm actually looking for more of a vox like clean tone. You could get the speaker repaired... and possibly change its tone in the process!
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Feb 21, 2014 03:13
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Agreed posted:Think 15W-ish, most probably (it is seriously hard to find my preferred tubes that will run at the appropriate high voltage with this thing, I may have to run at low V instead - still sounds fine, just less headroom and less output, though that's more nominal than meaningful; moving from .5W to 3W is a big deal, moving from 15W to ~18W is not). I was going to say the Jensen Jet Blackbird but it's a 100W speaker but that's more so you could be my guinea pig b/c it sounds head-and-shoulders above other loudspeakers in YouTube shootouts but augh it's spency
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Apr 23, 2014 06:34
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Smash it Smash hit posted:Bass through guitar head = fine. Bass through guitar speakers = blown speakers. ( I know some people can say you can play it quiet but, I dont even risk it) This is totally untrue
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Aug 22, 2014 14:29
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After lots of research the Eric Johnson Eminence EJ1250 is really the loudspeaker I've been needing to improve my Musicman 212 HD 130. My plan of winning the lottery to pay for a pair is right on track at the moment
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Sep 30, 2014 10:11
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Kilometers Davis posted:Peavey makes good poo poo and I find myself ignoring the fact too often i wonder wh 
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Jan 25, 2015 03:51
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Is there a single cheap combo alternative to the Marshall 1962 model?
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Mar 18, 2015 07:32
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The only Marshall worth buying is a JCM800 but you probably know that already. 1962 Bluesbreaker.
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Apr 27, 2015 05:14
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philkop posted:Anybody ever used one of these? http://www.effectrode.com/blackbird-vacuum-tube-preamp/ Thoughts? I have the Tube Drive preamp this guy makes - the Blackbird tones I'd been hearing weren't doing anything for me (too Soldano-y, I'm an indie music type). The pedal does not "tubeify" my little SS Danelectro practice amp or help it sound decent at all. It robs some of the dynamics out of my (already very hot) Fralin P-92 / SP-42 Tele setup but adds quite a bit of sparkle + chime to my Music Man HD130 hybrid (which in spite of its SS preamp isn't discernable in sound from a tube amp to my ear at all). I play with the preamp dimed most of the time and control breakup with the volume on the guitar. It takes quite a bit of futzing with this pedal to find sounds that work for me - probably because of my preamp being set as it is - but that's a good thing: it has a huge range of different sounds depending on the potentiometer settings, all of which interact fairly dramatically, but also not unpredictably. I have a Randall Commander 210 (it's badass) but I can't report on how this pedal sounds with it, because that amp, solid state as it is, really doesn't have any apartment-friendly volume settings. I'm moving this week though so could let you know how it interacts with it soon though
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Dec 1, 2016 05:36
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