|
Biggest human being Ever posted:I checked out one of these listings today and the seller I looked at, green-sum, claimed to be some kind of official distributor of yamakasi, which made me wonder, are those korean IPS screens actually for sale in korea? Like, can you buy them in the big electronics stores next to Samsung, LG, BenQ etc. displays? Yes, you'll likely see these company names in retail computer stores in Korea. You probably won't find these exact models, as they are intended for use in 'internet cafes' which are popular in the country. The ones on sale would likely have features (like multiple inputs, working controls, etc) that the cafe's simply don't need or want to pay for, but that an inexpert end user would find indispensable. We are getting these probably from larger internet cafe chains who have purchase agreements directly with manufacturers and are reselling on the side, without any manufacturer backing (warranty, etc). A pretty good deal, as long as you know what you are getting into. It might also drive prices in north america down a bit, but it'll take a while for that to happen.
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2012 16:50
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 15:55 |
|
|
Swartz posted:So I got a Dell U2312HM from Newegg and it's the revision everyone hates, A00. However, what exactly is wrong with this revision? From what I read it seems like yellow tinting is the issue but I'm not noticing it. Backlight bleed along the lower edge and/or corners was the number one complaint. I have a bunch of A00's (office) that don't have this problem or the yellowing problem so it's not as common as it appears online. Check yours in a dim room doing black screen or a movie, and see if it's noticeable enough to be annoying.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 22:27
|
|
|
Virtue posted:Does this thread also serve as monitor troubleshooting? Shine a light on it while it's on, and then look at the screen from a bit of an angle. I bet the backlight is gone, and the picture is still there, but you can't see it easily. Backlights can be replaced, but it's a pain on a lot of models. Also, it might be cheaper to buy a new monitor.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2014 06:12
|
|
|
Apples' Phil Schiller posted:It's a 27" display with 5120x2880 resolution. Hmmm... Apples' Phil Schiller posted:Custom timing controller tells every pixel what to do and when to do it. Apples' Phil Schiller posted:Radeon R9 290X and 295X options. EoRaptor fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Oct 16, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2014 19:08
|
|
|
wolrah posted:Yeah, lots LED backlit TVs do this, some even with colored LEDs. It's called local dimming. Not sure if any computer monitors do it though. Obviously this requires true backlighting rather than the side-lit design used in laptops, so the thinnest of displays are automatically out of the picture. The big issue is that some controller has to make a decision about how bright a section should be based on what is being displayed there, which almost always means it needs foreknowledge of the frame that is about to be displayed. That type of frame 'delay' is fine in TV, were 2 or 3 frames being buffered will never be noticed, but for computer gaming it's a no-no. It would be nice if VESA could roll up a standard, where a video card could get some knowledge about a display's abilities and could compute a 'brightness map' for the display that is given along with each frame. You could even make it based on a tiny bit of GL compute code, so as different display techniques appear, the card isn't limited by some pre-defined modes. Hmmm... EoRaptor fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Oct 21, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2014 19:35
|
|
|
Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Oh weird. So basically it looks like: Not really. DVI Only is: Computer -> DVI -> Display Controller -> Display Panel Multi is: Computer -> ??? -> Scan Line Converter -> Display Controller -> Display Panel With DVI, you are effectively writing each line of the display directly to the panel buffer, and it is put on the panel effectively immediately. With the multi input, the scan line converter has to wait until it sees an entire frame before it will hand off to the display controller, so you will always have a minimum of one frame of lag for most inputs. DP can have less lag, but most scan line converters don't bother to take advantage of this. DVI and HDMI inputs could also be set to a bypass mode, but again, most scan line converters don't implement this, and these displays are made as cheaply as possible.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2015 16:21
|
|
|
Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Huh. BenQ and Asus gaming monitors (even the cheaper ones) have virtually no display lag despite having multiple inputs, but I suppose that makes sense considering they are specifically designed to minimize it. Yes, there are lots of things that can be done to minimize input lag through the converter, but all of them add to the cost of the chip/display. It's probably only 30 cents to a dollar of material cost, but that means the end result can be a 20 to 40 dollar price premium. Wowporn posted:This might be stupid as poo poo but do different connections ever have different amounts of input lag? My shimian with dvi only is great and unnoticeable, but I was wondering if there was a way to get lower lag from my tv that has 8 thousand different inputs. Yes, different inputs can have different amounts of lag, with analog inputs likely having the most, and digital the least. Mis-matched input resolutions will also have more lag than ones that match. Your brand new TV is doing a bunch of image smoothing and frame interpolation because NTSC signals are pretty garbage for flat panels. PAL is better, but still pretty bad. It takes time to fix up the image, and often these fixups rely on being able to see the next few frames to correct the current frame a bit, so everything is often 4 or 5 frames behind. It's so bad the TV will often have to correct the audio by a few frames to keep things synced up, and if you don't use the audio through the TV, it can be noticeably off.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2015 22:23
|
|
|
dartt posted:TFT Central has a review of the Acer Predator XB270HU (the Gsync/144Hz/1440p/ULMB IPS-type panel) I'm a little wary that the tested example has been handpicked/tuned for garnering good reviews, but raising the bar for panels of this class is something I think is sorely needed, as desktop displays have been outpaced by phone and laptop displays for a long time, and it's something that is overdue to be addressed.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
evensevenone posted:I think Carmack thinks 8K at 90fps is about where HMDs get good (I.e screen-door effect goes away, dot pitch about in line with current display sizes/viewing distances. So that will probably be a new generation of interconnects and several GPU generations. I think to get retina-sized pixels across the FOV you need around 20K, which might actually be feasible in a decade or so. VR is probably not a miracle, but I also think we will start to cheat a bit, as you can use way less pixels for areas that aren't the center of focus, saving a huge amount of rendering time and transit bandwidth. We are slowly getting to the point where head and eye tracking is fast enough we wouldn't even notice the missing bits. Our eyes do this type of thing all the time already, and I expect the knowledge of how that works to be applied.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2015 21:21
|
|
|
Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Windows 8.1 pushed an optional Windows Update for the XB270HU today. Should I touch it or no? Odds are it's just so the monitor is correctly identified in the devices / device manager areas. You can always uninstall it if it does something weird.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2015 01:53
|
|
|
The Deadly Hume posted:Only one thing is, when I turn the monitor off, the windows all reset into the corner in Windows. Apparently the card might have something to do with it - it's a AMD 6950, which is obviously the next thing I'll have to deal with since it has no business trying to drive anything this big. This is just how displayport behaves. With other connectors, even if the monitor is turned off, there is a passive connection between two pins that says 'something is plugged in here'. Not so for displayport. When you turn off a displayport monitor, windows thinks it has been entirely unplugged, so tries to move any windows/icons onto the remaining display(s). If you don't have any others, it defaults to the 640x480 'minimum' display. If you can, adjust your power savings to sleep the monitor, and leave it physically turned on.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2015 20:01
|
|
|
Josh Lyman posted:It looks like the PCBank 27" 1440p Korean monitor I got 3 years ago finally died. The screen took on a green tint, then I fiddled around with some stuff, and now it doesn't get any signal. When I turn it on, the power LED is momentarily green then sits on red, the same as when it's in standby. I'd look at the power supply brick itself having gone bad. Plenty of people report issues there, and yours may no longer be producing the amperage needed to start things up, so the panel stays stuck in it's low power sleep state. I don't know how replaceable they are, though.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2015 20:21
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:BTW, Newegg is having a bit of a sale on the Acer XB270HU, only $599 That definitely means a replacement model will show up soon (at least a paper launch), as they are flushing any existing inventory.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2015 03:31
|
|
|
Just ordered a Crossover 2795 from ebay (green-sum). I hope I don't get murdered on currency exchange and import duties. My secondary monitory is now really, really mostly dead, so I hope this arrives soon.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2015 02:33
|
|
|
Byolante posted:I'm buying a cheap little laptop that I won't be upset if it gets cut in half by a mig welder (this happened to my last laptop) and I want a 1440 or 4k screen to do cad work on. I found a few of these things Those types of adapters rely on the CPU to do all the drawing and compositing, so they are too slow for things like video or gaming. You'll need to decide for yourself if the CAD performance is acceptable. If you plan to make complex drawings on there, it'll be iffy, but if you just need to show stuff or make minor tweaks based on feedback, then it'll probably be fine. I would, however, reach out to whoever wrote your CAD software and ask them if they've ever used it with a USB display controller. Maybe they already have some idea of what will happen.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2015 15:05
|
|
|
EoRaptor posted:Just ordered a Crossover 2795 from ebay (green-sum). I hope I don't get murdered on currency exchange and import duties. Monitor arrived. So far, there are no stuck or dead pixels that I can find, and the monitor overclocks to 115hz, but begins to have noticeable banding problems at about 105, so I left it at 100 for now. Once it is dark I'll test for backlight bleed, but I'm not noticing any during normal conditions. The stand is wobbly garbage.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2015 00:30
|
|
|
Mazz posted:You might be able to increase the OC if you go to that overclock thread, some guy had custom timing that did work for me, although I was more comfortable just leaving it on auto at 96hz. 100hz is probably good enough. I only have a 670, so I'm not going to be pushing enough frames to hit that limit. I'll dig into it if I need to hit specific goal. AxeManiac posted:I was thinking over ordering this too, how wobbly garbage is the stand? Like I hardly touch my monitors, will it be fine? I assume it has mounts if I wanted to do a fancy swing arm mount on it, right? If you don't touch or lean on your desk heavily, it's stable enough. Anything that moves your desk will make the monitor wobble back and forth. The tilt adjustment range is terrible, and the lack of height adjustment is also annoying, but I just used a ream of paper and it seems to be about right for me. The VESA mounts are exposed, so it would be easy to attach it to an arm. I found it had very low backlight bleed, so I'm happy there, but the bezel is the shiniest thing ever, so I'll probably be looking at the debezeling guides. Also the back plastic has that fake leather print for some reason, which is strange and purposeless. EoRaptor fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Sep 24, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2015 14:34
|
|
|
BurritoJustice posted:Asus announced their PG279Q a few months ago which is equivalent, but it has been "coming soon" for quite a while. Also Acer is releasing the XB271HU, which will hopefully address the QA failings of the 270. I'm going to take a wild guess at pre-xmas, with black friday sales of the 270 to get rid of any stock.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2015 00:54
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:CRTs had a very high refresh rate, and since they draw line by line, they don't have the tearing that LCDs do. One out of three is a failing grade, kid. CRT's didn't often get above 60Hz, and while 75Hz was available, rates higher than that were confined to a few premium models. Neither of those is a very high refresh rate. CRT's would tear in the same way and for the same reasons LCD's do. Tearing is an artifact of how frames are passed to the display, not the display technology itself. High refresh rates make tearing less noticeable, but it's still present. G-Sync and Freesync are both attempts to address this issue. Oh, and LCD's also refresh line by line, it's just not a beam of electrons.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
Krailor posted:I just got a Crossover 2795 and it's got a weird issue that I haven't seen before. One of the solder points on the control board pcb is loose. As it heats up, the board flexes or expands a bit, and causes the points to press together, 'fixing' the issue. You could probably oven fix this (take the pcb out, and bake it in the oven for awhile, then put it back) but your best bet is to RMA it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2015 00:27
|
|
|
Exasperated posted:I keep hearing about Korean imports, what brands is everyone talking about? These days it's either the QNIX QX2710 either b-grade or new (NOT the multi 10 variant), or the Crossover 2795QHD
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2015 17:14
|
|
|
pandaK posted:Well gently caress, then I might as well just return this one and buy a Dell or go with a new ebay model if that's the case... The box for the 2795QHD lists having a bunch of additional stuff (HDMI ports, DisplayPorts) that don't actually exist on the monitor. Ignore the box. Look at the back of the monitor. If there is a single DVI-D port next to the power port, and no other ports, then it is a 2795QHD. If there are more ports, then it is not. The pictures you posted earlier do show the 2795QHD, so i think this is just confusion from the box and your initial choice of trying an HDMI to DVI cable, which won't work for this monitor. If you want to use the monitor, then you must use a Dual Link DVI port, and a Dual link DVI cable (included) when connecting the monitor to your video card. It looks like you have done so. So far, everything seems good. What are you trying to do that isn't working? Overclocking? Using non-native resolutions? All of these are just software settings in windows. EoRaptor fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 25, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2015 19:35
|
|
|
pandaK posted:Is the crossover 2795qhd supposed to show up as the 27qhd when you look at it in the display system menus? I just did the toastyx screen utility thing, set a profile at 90hz and restarted, but the option to go to 90hz isn't in my screen resolution system options. Am I hosed? Your OC questions have been answered, but yes, the 2795QHD shows up as the 27QHD in some windows settings. Not sure if they re-used the monitor ID or windows is just being dumb, but it's harmless.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2015 22:12
|
|
|
pandaK posted:
Recent drivers broke the built in overclock when running multiple monitors. You want a utility called CRU. Phone posting, so no link, sorry.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2015 00:42
|
|
|
pandaK posted:Is toastyx the cru thing? It doesn't work Ah, ToastyX is the guy who wrote it: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU It does work, it's just incredibly fiddly and the instructions are very unclear. First, run the pixel clock patcher and reboot. Then, open up CRU and clean out any listed resolutions:  If you look at the bottom of that screenshot, you'll see 'custom extension block' set. Set yours to the same thing, and hit edit:  Use the add button to add the refresh rate you want. Don't change anything else, just the refresh rate. I'd recommend starting at 96, as the monitor will reliably make that. Click okay a bunch of times and close CRU Use the restart64 utility to make the new refresh rate active, or just restart your computer. If you want to push your monitor further, you can go ahead and try, mine will make 110, but starts to distort colour after about 105, so I just leave it at 96 for now.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
Mazz posted:Is there away to tell what a game would be running refresh rate wise on a Korean OC? I know it should use the NVidia settings and I have the Qnix drivers to make it stick, but I'm curious if it's actually working in the games I play. Shadowplay has a frame rate counter that can be turned on. A lot of games have built in ones.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2015 11:46
|
|
|
pandaK posted:All of a sudden my dual monitor setup no longer functions properly. Having both plugged in makes only the secondary monitor show up, the primary monitor only displays properly if I only have it plugged into the bottom slot. I am mixing VGA and DVI cables, but only because the crossfire 27qhd that I use for primary doesn't seem to be able to function properly with a DVI cable, and it's been working fine until today. What's going on Have you tried a clean install of the drivers? Sometimes they get confused. Also, the 27QHD will only work with a dual-link dvi cable. You can check this by looking at the plug on the cable end, and making sure it has all the pins present ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface )
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2016 20:59
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:They said they will not be using less than an "A+" panel, whatever that means. Maybe LG has some with no dead pixels, but worse backlight bleed or something? I'm guessing A+ is just branding, like 'gold' being the lowest level of enterprise support you can get, and effectively garbage. These are probably panels that pass the lights up and doesn't catch fire level of QA. Wait until the first wave of monitors get reviews, and see what peoples actual experiences are.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2016 21:07
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:My monitor no longer turns on If you shine a flashlight on the monitor, can you faintly see what should be on the screen? The backlight might have just burnt out or broken, which is surprisingly fixable if you have a soldering iron and a place to buy capacitors in small quantities.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2016 19:56
|
|
. Well, the power light turns on, but the display itself never kicks in. It is some "Nixeus" 27" thing I got from a coworker for $200 last year so I really don't know how old it is. It is hilarious because it has a row of six buttons but two don't do anything. It even says so in the manual. gg china.
|
xcore posted:Just confirming, Crossover 2795 are the Korean overclocking QHD monitors of choice at the moment yeah? Yes, the 2795QHD Be careful, the 27QHD is a completely different mode from crossover.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2016 02:18
|
|
|
ILikeVoltron posted:Anybody have any experience running the Dell U3415W above the standard 60hz? I'm just curious because it seems like it got to 80hz pretty easily and with all the talk of 96hz+ for gaming I looked into it myself. Some monitors with multiple inputs will accept higher refresh rates, but just drop any frames above 60. Use the tests at testufo.com to see if it's doing this.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2016 17:09
|
|
|
fozzy fosbourne posted:Last I read, OLED still had issues with image retention which seems like it would be no bueno for a personal computer but I think I remember reading LG having some sort of break through. I think that's been mostly solved by the use of multiple layers for colour reproduction. For a long time, OLED used separate LED configurations for each blue, red or green subpixel, which lead to some burning out before others. Now, they use only red (the longest lasting and cheapest), and coat it with an appropriate phosphor to give it the right colour. You shouldn't see any long term image burn-in, though you might get retention that needs time to recover if you leave it on the same image too long. This alienware will be a good test of all that, as people will buy them and talk about the issues.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2016 02:26
|
|
|
Bloodplay it again posted:My XB271HU arrived yesterday and looks great. No dead pixels and the BLB is less severe than my 60hz Asus IPS it replaced. My only qualm so far is with the speakers. I don't know if I have a defective unit or what, but they're easily the worst speakers I've ever heard. Turned DTS off, but it doesn't help the tin-can-on-a-strings that are the 2W speakers. Are they obnoxiously bad for everyone else? I'm not even close to being an audiophile either. The built in speakers on every monitor are trash. The expected use case is email and facebook message notifications, and they barely make that. Ignore them and find something decent.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2016 00:02
|
|
|
xthetenth posted:I don't think there are any quite as good as the best IPS. I think a good VA vs a decent IPS is reasonably close, just see if you can get a number for input lag. Less good ones are dominated by the scaler so they're all equally out of the running for twitch. I'm going to jump into this discussion with a reminder about something: AU Optronics, who make panels for a number of different display manufacturers, calls their IPS implementation AHVA, but it has no relation to a VA panel, and is just branding to avoid using the IPS trademark. Same deal as Samsung's PLS, but with a much more confusing acronym. This is especially important because AU Optronics and LG are the only panel makers in the >60Hz IPS space right now and it can get confusing.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2016 03:43
|
|
|
Grog posted:Okay, so now that I've had more time to sit in front of it, my TV actually does seem to have been damaged. There are five or six dark blue spots on one side that show up on dark backgrounds. I don't know if that's from physical trauma to the front of the screen or what. My wild guess would be that the screen got hit by something and those spots are now letting extra backlight through, or something along those lines. If the TV is one or two years out of warranty, you might find a similar model that has something else broken and be able to swap stuff around, but even then you'd need to pay nothing for parts and have very low labour costs. Most likely a new TV will be cheaper and better, and much less hassle. Wait for black friday if you can tolerate crowds, otherwise after christmas is also a good time for sales.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2016 02:28
|
|
|
Okay there buddy...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2017 20:37
|
|
|
Constellation I posted:I just hate how we're paying so much for these high-end monitors but can't get a dead pixel guarantee. My drat Korean eBay monitor was guaranteed and personally inspected to be dead pixel free for a premium of like $20 at the time. While retailers in canada tend to be poo poo thanks to lack of competition, this particular bit from ebay sellers is just PR. Had you received a non-perfect monitor (and their perfect pixel stuff allows for dead pixels, just less than the regular variant) you would have been offered a refund of your twenty bucks, and not a replacement at all. No one opened the box and checked anything once it left the factory. Getting a warranty from square is generally a better option for ebay monitor purchases.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2017 04:23
|
|
|
mcbexx posted:I there a way to force Windows 10 to not disconnect/"forget" a monitor that goes into standby? Some displayport cables are made incorrectly. Are you using the one that came with the display, or did you buy a third party one?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2017 19:29
|
|
|
DrDork posted:I got a refurbed X34 and I literally cannot figure out why it was ever returned: it's perfect. Some refurbs are from the box getting damaged in transit to a wharehouse/store, or ordered and then returned due to mis-delivery, or cancelled delivery due to fraud. There are a bunch of laws governing how you can sell returned items that disallow selling them as new, even if the item was never opened. You also get returns due to morons who can't figure out how to plug something in or turn it on. There is still the chance that a refurb really will be defective and the depot that was supposed to check it didn't do anything and just boxed it back up. Scrutinize refurbs very closely, because your warranty is much shorter.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2017 00:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 15:55 |
|
|
the good fax machine posted:Did you get the $500 clearance price, or the price that is half of that? The one nearest me has sold out of them, but drat if all this talk of finding them at $250 doesn't have me seriously considering driving across town to possibly pick up another one. The 250 price was only for display models. The 499 was for clearance, and it does indeed seem the 271 is discontinued. No idea if there will be a new model in the same product niche.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2017 19:49
|
|