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For those looking at the thermapen, keep in mind that if you don't mind the extra bulk, the handheld probe is actually cheaper! And you can buy different probes for it! http://www.thermoworks.com/products/handheld/mtc.html The "super fast probe" kit is essentially the same performance as the Thermapen for  less
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May 17, 2013 23:06
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toby posted:I don't see any flames on that handheld thing. Flames are an extra .
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May 17, 2013 23:34
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:This doesn't clip onto my coat. Where the hell am I supposed to put it?! Put a piece of metal on your pocket and magnet that motherfucker  (Don't do this) Honestly I just noticed it was cheaper, and the probes you can buy for it are neat. I may go for one of their more expensive ones with alarms just because the variety of probes is nice. It's probably not a terrible option for home cooking but the bulk would make it more annoying to use in a pro kitchen.
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May 17, 2013 23:44
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GrAviTy84 posted:this is a commonly asked question, does someone want to write up a table of USDA vs suggested temperatures and pasteurization times and put it on the wiki? Can it be a c/p of Modernist Cuisine V1 P192-194?
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May 21, 2013 04:48
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pnau posted:Not sure if this has been covered in another thread, but can anyone recommend a guide/equipment for sharpening cooking and filleting knives ? How much do you want to spend? Cheapest: (~$10) Pros: Very Cheap, does a convex grind Cons: does a convex grind - Buy a cheap FLAT mousepad - Apply high grit wet sanding sandpaper - Watch a few videos on sharpening - More info Cheap: (~$30) Pros: Cheap Cons: Usually small stone so it's harder to do larger knives properly - Get two cheap waterstones (one 200-400 one 600+ grit) (Norton makes decent ones) - Watch a few videos on sharpening - Explanation: Eventually, if you're doing it right, water stones will bow in the middle, the reason I told you to buy two stones instead of one two sider is that you can use one stone to level the other, like magic. Also Cheap: (~$30) Pros: Cheap Cons: Usually small stone so it's harder to do larger knives properly - Get two grits of cheap oilstones (one 200-400 one 1000+ grit), it can be the same stone with two sides. (Look for Norton) - Watch a few videos on sharpening - Explanation: Whenever they use water in the video you use Honing oil at a much reduced amount. Mid-Range (~$70) (HC < 60 knives only, so no VG-10+ stainless, no carbon steel knives) Pros: HUUUUGE stones so it's easy to get even results, DuoSharps last pretty much forever, DuoSharps don't bow like waterstones Cons: DON'T DO THIS ON HARD KNIVES, if you apply too much pressure you will eat a shitload of metal off your knife - Get a DMT DuoSharp Fine/Extra-Fine (link) - Watch a few videos on sharpening - Watch a video on how to sharpen specifically with it with it on youtube - Bonus: if you ever need to reshape a knife just buy the coarse/extra coarse DuoSharp, it gobbles metal like a champ - Bonus2: If you want to get an ever finer edge on poo poo (you don't really need to go beyond DMT extra fine) and you get a waterstone, DMTs can be used to level other waterstones perfectly every time - Explanation: The reason you don't want to do it on really hard knives is that the knives have a tendency to gobble the diamond from the DMT plate and they embed on the edge, I mean I guess diamond coated edge on a knife could be a good thing (it isn't). Higher end (~120) Pros: Decent sized stones, fairly long lasting Cons: Expensive, don't drop these - Buy two Shapton Glass stones (220 or 320 and 1000 will give you a ridiculously sharp knife) - Buy a stone holder (generic works, the Shapton one is neat and heavy but unnecessary) - Watch a few videos on sharpening This is a hobby and you wan to sharpen for everyone you know: (~$250) Pros: EASY AS gently caress Cons: You don't actually get to practice sharpening, this is easy mode - Get an Edge Pro Set with either Shaptons or Choseras (you can also get a fake edge pro on ebay) - Read the manual. - Find videos online on how to use it. This is your hobby and you sharpen for everyone you know, super sperglord edition: (~$500+) Pros: You can be the spergiest of sharpeners Cons: You have to know how to sharpen before you use this - Get a couple low grits of good quality stones (see above) - Get a high quality high grit japanese water stone - Sharpen that fucker - Bonus: If you look at your knife wrong IT WILL CUT YOU. edit: It's me, I'm the sperglord sharpener. edit oilstone edition: Upped the grit requirements for oilstones deimos fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 16:50
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toby posted:3000 grit http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=3280 On belts, sandpaper's typically for initial grind on a knife, for touch ups they have two issues: too much heat and too much metal taken off. You can use sandpaper, using what's called the mousepad method, personally not my favorite (I prefer a V grind to a convex grind) but it's another method, forgot to mention it.
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Jun 6, 2013 20:36
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SubG posted:I'll also point out that you didn't mention oilstones, which tend to be cheaper than waterstones and don't wear a fraction as fast. I do most of my profiling work on Norton Crystolon stones; you can get a duplex Norton stone (which is just two thinner stones with different grits bonded together) for arouns US$20. If I was really wanting to sharpen on a budget I'd just use a duplex Norton stone and then strop on a belt or rifle sling. Personal preference strikes again, I don't like oilstones as much, even though they last longer. I much prefer the mechanism of waterstones in which the particulate breaks down to smaller particles and the swarf/mud is the actual sharpening mechanism. Oilstones are good starter too. Regarding truing, you're right. I use my DMTs for truing most of the time, before that I used an oilstone. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 23:37
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Oooo Thermoworks just released a son of thermapen for $30. Super Fast Mini
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Jun 22, 2013 08:56
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GrAviTy84 posted:I have one of these, too. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt600c.html The rt is immersion proof.
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Jun 22, 2013 20:57
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No Wave posted:Also - just put in an order for the moritaka 240mm gyuto, dojo paring knife (thanks SubJesus), an edge faux, a 320 shapton glass stone and a 1000 shapton glass stone (thanks deimos). a. The higher the grit you go to the easier it is for the knife to lose b. Keep whatever bevel it comes with (if you're unsure use the sharpie method to make sure you're getting an even bevel: sharpie the edge and start sharpening, if the entire sharpie line disappears you're on the right angle). If you're unsure of the angle, email chefknivestogo and ask, they're very helpful. c. Any smooth steel would be ideal, since you're going with a hard steel japanese knife I'd recommend against diamond loaded ones, again, you can email chefknivestogo for a recommendation. deimos fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jun 24, 2013 |
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Jun 24, 2013 20:39
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Fo3 posted:edit; How long a blade keeps it's edge is all to do with the steel, the bevel, the edge (concave, multi bevel etc), and how it's used, not the stone grit it was sharpened on. Yeah, in retrospect I said that wrong, what I meant to say was closer to "the higher the grit the faster the effect that grit may have on the edge will be worn off, specially on softer steels".
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Jun 24, 2013 22:20
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Show me some hawt edge thinning, amirite? Double Bevel dat ride 
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Jun 25, 2013 17:04
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O god, I forgot to add content to my last post, I was gonna mention that this is a pretty
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Jun 25, 2013 19:39
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Oh god should I get a CCK or a Nakiri? Keep in mind where I live (Puerto Rico) if I look at a piece of steel wrong it'll rust, my carbon steel knives basically live drenched in oil and I have to take careful care of my cast iron (I solve it by using the filthy goon option: I don't clean them until I am ready to use it again or a the end of the week), I am not sure I could baby a CCK every time I use it, is something like the Tojiro DP Nakiri a good substitute for it? I am not sure how the spine widths compare or the overall weight/feel to either of them.
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Jun 26, 2013 17:34
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 That's a knife I had made for my brother as a gift. 270mm Gyuto from Watanabe with a single beveled edge, custom made handle of blue dyed maple burl, amber, blackwood and a mammoth tooth end cap. It has a very nice patina now but I haven't taken a picture of it recently.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:56
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Steve Yun posted:People have been saying "we don't have a knife thread because everyone acted stupid last time we had one" for so long but whenever I see knife discussion it seems pretty informative and open-minded and I don't see any of the brand name fanboyism that supposedly happened in the past. As long as said brand is Tojiro  E: can't believe not one comment on my knife excess. deimos fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 18:19
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I was gonna post that Watanabe are actually a very good introduction to carbon japanese knives with their set, but it seems their prices have gone up significantly, I bought a 5 piece set of their rough-finished "standard" knives for a friend for $125 and now I notice their 4 piece set is ~$220. Then again the set I bought had a different set of knives and no Santoku. (I think the set I got was Deba, Nakkiri, Ajikiri, Sashimi and Mukimono)
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Jun 27, 2013 19:01
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Keep in mind, if you need a knife for a specific need the japanese have probably invented it, IIRC there's ~150 types of japanese knives. Here's a short list of them. I've been seeing a few people mentioning Kiritsukes recently, although most people I've seen mention them are looking at double ground Kiritsukes which would make them not kiritsuke but some sort of mutant. e: I mean for gently caress's sake, they have a watermelon knife. deimos fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 19:41
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:I have the tojiro itk kiritsuke. It's double ground. I flattened the belly and thinned behind the edge quite a bit because the factory grinds were really rough and uneven. Fantastic knife at $80, if you put some work into it. That's not a kiritsuke.
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Jun 27, 2013 20:17
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Oh god, OH GOD, I've just been informed my old cuisinart blender died.
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Jun 27, 2013 21:38
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My Vitamix is here, I've blended so many things since yesterday.
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Jul 2, 2013 14:36
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GrAviTy84 posted:temper the eggs Details on that one pleeez!
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Jul 2, 2013 18:02
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GrAviTy84 posted:You basically build a custard in the blender using the friction from the blades to gently bring the custard up to temperature. Makes a fantastic lemon/fruit curd. Yes. I was just wondering if there was something special with the custard blending.
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Jul 2, 2013 19:26
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bunnielab posted:Are the factory reconditioned Vitamixs worth looking into? I am on the cusp of buying an edgepro as a new toy but could be into a blender. Buy a faux pro and a refurb, from what I've seen/heard they are well worth it. Unfortunately the new model keeps going out of stock for the refurb.
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Jul 2, 2013 20:35
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GrAviTy84 posted:fwiw, factory reconditioned models are 430bux and costco sells 5200's for 475bux. I went with the brand new one for 50bux more, I think it's worth it. The reconditioned sells for $330 for the equivalent to the 5200. (+ shipping I guess). It's the newer model (shorter/quieter) that runs $400.
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Jul 2, 2013 21:06
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GrAviTy84 posted:oops that was a typo on my part. I meant 330 and the +50bux is worth spending for a new notfurbished one. The 5200 at costco is 375bux Yeah that makes more sense, I thought it was 330 vs 475.
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Jul 2, 2013 21:37
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SubG posted:Unless you have the acute form of knife-related Asperger's that propagates primarily via internet discussion forums, yes. Don't think I've ever seen anyone argue for different stones for different steels. I mean keep em clean to avoid swarf from a harder steel possibly doing weird stuff with a softer steel yes, but that's just normal operation anyways (clean the knife after each stone, clean the stone after each knife). Aspies use a paper towel per stone grit to avoid grit contamination .
deimos fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 07:00
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I searched the thread and it seems the go-to recommendation for (higher end) pressure cookers is the Kuhn Rikon 3344, is this still the case? Just want to make sure I am getting the right model, the old Fagor I was using does not want to maintain a seal even with new gaskets and I can't find where it's warped.
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Jul 8, 2013 18:00
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Changing the subject and touching back on hand blenders, I get how the Cuisinart is an amazing buy sub $30 bux but holy gently caress is my 15 year old Braun model amazing. I had to use my brother's Cuisinart for some soup today and I can honestly tell the difference between them. Mine just seems much stronger. Then again my unit is like 15 years old (is this a bad thing?) so I am not sure if it's Gillete or P&G, and I am not sure how De'Longhi is going to mandhandle the brand. Anyone know how good the "new" Braun stuff is?
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Jul 13, 2013 21:40
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Might be placebo but oh my god did a 20 second pass through my vitamix at full speed make my cheap Rioja taste delicious.
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Jul 22, 2013 22:05
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GrAviTy84 posted:I'm assuming you're talking about modernist hyperaeration of wine? Yes, Myhrvold's misnamed "hyperdecanting". I wasn't expecting much out of it but it really did seem to do wonders for the wine.
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Jul 22, 2013 22:21
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Krailor posted:I've been using this one for searing meat outside the past few months and it's been working great. One thing to keep in mind with these induction units is that the heat is all generated in the 4-5 inch circle in the center so if you're using a large 12 inch pan the outside edges will certainly be a little cooler than the middle. I get around this by only searing one steak at a time or rotating as I flip so that it gets an even sear. That's the same one I use, it's pretty nice. It would be absolutely perfect if it could keep my kuhn rikon at 15 PSI but it can only do ~11PSI on power level 1 (eyeballing it where it lands between the 9 and 13 bars) or overpressure on power level 2  .
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Jul 29, 2013 22:26
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Korwen posted:I need a kitchen scale. This one is for sale at costco: If you don't need more than 2 gram accuracy then go for it, seems decent.
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Aug 1, 2013 22:39
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mod sassinator posted:I also have that Costco scale and am happy with it. I have a cheap smaller digital scale from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-pocket-scale-93543.html ) if I need more accurate measurements when doing crazy molecular gastronomy type recipes. Am I the only one who is paranoid that buying a .01g accuracy scale put me on some DEA watchlist?
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Aug 2, 2013 16:14
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LTBS posted:I'm thinking about pre-ordering this gadget: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/seattlefoodgeek/sansaire-sous-vide-circulator-for-199 Just as I was thinking of pre-ordering a Nomiku.
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Aug 7, 2013 20:59
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SubG posted:The thermal conductivity of polycarbonate (at about 25 C) is around 2x10-1 W/mK. The thermal conductivity of stainless is around 2x101 W/mK, and for aluminium it's 2x102 W/mK. Which is to say a polycarbonate container of the same nominal dimensions as a stainless cooking pot will be a hundred times better at insulating the contents, and a thousand times better than an aluminium one. Nothing is preventing people from buying a polycarbonate container for $25 (or so) after they've wet their feet with an immersion circulator. The thermal conductivity of the container matters less with an immersion circulator than with a puddle machine. Oh and a surplus bag of ping pong balls for a cover. deimos fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Aug 7, 2013 |
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Aug 7, 2013 22:51
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Already funded.
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Aug 8, 2013 05:04
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Just don't try to purée ginger in one. The clutch going off was the most terrifying sound I had ever heard the first time it happened because I thought I got a lemon.
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Aug 8, 2013 14:23
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:This isn't entirely true. There's a handy chart in Modernist Cuisine that shows cooking time and temp and 7D reduction in bacteria. Yeah, even the document he posted states the opposite of what he said. AAAND I'll just leave this here: Chef De Cuisinart posted:The gently caress, if you pull at 135, carryover will get you to 142, which is hardly mid-rare. deimos fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 17:02
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Also, the chart in the PDF shows that with thicker cuts, the internal temp won't get to 130 in under 4 hours. Which going strictly by the accepted food safety rules, is too long in the danger zone. Taking 4 hours to reach 130 doesn't say anything about the time it stays in the danger zone if you start from cold storage. Science is needed. e: also Science and Governments disagree on the "danger zone" 140 F, really? Heston Blumenthal cooks rib roast 24 hours at 125. :img-archer-dangerzone: deimos fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 22:57
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