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Bad Munki posted:That depends on so much more than just the type of wood. For instance, the depth of cut, the diameter of the bit, the type of bit, the RPM you have the router set to, the actual hardness of the wood, how readily the wood burns...anyhow, I usually just go by feel, moving fast enough not to cause burning, but slow enough not to cause blowout. You can feel how much resistance the wood is giving as you cut through it, you figure out pretty quickly what's "right." Also known as: you better have some scrap wood!
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Apr 15, 2015 15:47
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captainblastum posted:I'm a little late on this - but I have that Ryobi cordless circular saw, and I love it. I'd definitely say it's worth picking up a battery and charger for. I've really enjoyed all of the One+ tools that I've picked up, especially the screw gun. One of my batteries did go bad though (the other one has been just fine but the bad one was out of warranty). For Ryobi 18V you want to wait until Black Friday / X-mas for batteries, Home Depot does a 2 for 1 package sale on the high capacity ones, $99 for 2 of those monsters is a good deal.
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Aug 5, 2015 00:42
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  For content: anyone have a favorite cheap-ish router bit brand? I am not looking to do anything professional but I wanna build a wall mount dresser to shove into my closet.
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Jan 12, 2016 17:15
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HVLP is so much better than a compressor and cup gun (which unless you have a monster compressor you need to use LVLP, Grizzly makes a decent cheap one, which I used before I got my HVLP). I got a Fuji 2202 when amazon had a deal on it (I think cyber week) and it's amazing. A cheaper alternative is the Earlex/Graco turbine models. I have read really good things about the Earlex made plastidip turbine (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KXFDCIE/) or from their site. As a cheap HVLP turbine that works (for more than plastidip) I have a friend that uses it solely for wood finishing and has no complaints for the price. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 16:40
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Helped a neighbor shovel snow and she tried to pay me. I declined and we got to talking and she mentioned her deceased husband had tools. I asked and she took me into the garage. She has offered to give me this: Random trivia: IIRC those are similar (I need to check my Tobias bible) to the ones that Richard Feynman used to crack open while working at the Manhattan project.
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Feb 1, 2016 14:25
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Contractor might have put a bigger breaker on cable not of sufficient size, check the gauge of the wire.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:Plug it in and run it. If it goes over the rated breaker, it'll throw it. It will throw it after a while not instantly.
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Feb 5, 2016 00:10
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OSU_Matthew posted:^^ That's really a pretty cool safe, I'd be shocked if you couldn't unload that thing on craigslist pretty easy. So long as you can just roll it out the garage and tip it over onto someone's truck/trailer, should be pretty easy. Uhh, make sure buyer assumes all responsibility for this, typically vaults of that size easily go above 1500 lbs.
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Feb 10, 2016 21:32
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TheDon01 posted:A question about paint sprayers. I posted a little about sprayers a few pages back but for wood finishes. For latex paints you most definitely want to rent an airless. HVLP cannot be driven by most consumer compressors, you'd either want to go with LVLP and thin the paint or rent an airless sprayer. I am not as willing to recommend an HVLP turbine for latex application but thinned properly it should work.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Really short nails, all into studs, and this was a few months ago. Yeah, I would have noticed a long time ago if one managed to go into pressurized copper plumbing. Coworker's condo had cameras installed and one of the installs nicked a pipe that wasn't in any plans... About a year later the electrical system for half the building* had to be replaced because the water trickling had rusted it to poo poo and it caused a massive short. *not all the system but the distribution to the top half of the building. deimos fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Mar 10, 2016 |
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Mar 10, 2016 03:15
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Grace, Wiha and Wera make really good hollow grounds I've used at least once, all are great.
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Apr 13, 2016 22:21
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EGO is a really good choice depending on the size of your yard.
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Apr 19, 2016 19:27
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All of those are industry-wide, usually remnants of olden time standards, DeWalt's 20V fuckery goes against the industry standard use of nominal voltage strictly for marketing purposes.
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May 3, 2016 16:20
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Oh no, it definitely applies to flash drives. The "4GB" flash drive I've got plugged in now only shows 3.8GB usable. That's the file system taking some space on a 4GiB flash drive, 4GB would be 3.72GiB.
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May 3, 2016 21:22
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Zhentar posted:That is incorrect; there is very little file system overhead counted in that calculation. The discrepancy is mostly from spare area, reserved for remapping to optimize writes and remap failed blocks. You're right, but still the GB/GiB conversion would give less than what the OS reports.
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May 3, 2016 23:46
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Gounads posted:Was wondering what it might take to replace battery cells for my drill. This instructable made me laugh: Yeah Black Friday two packs of the high capacity are the best deal in batteries out there. The only way to get cheaper batteries is the Ikea cordless SDS drill. Yeah... The drill nets cheaper batteries than buying batteries, and they are decent quality.
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May 6, 2016 14:31
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Motronic posted:Mower blades and axes. If they are too sharp they tend to fold over. That has to do with sharpening angle not how sharp it is. wormil posted:Axes and mower blades should be sharp, not dulled, but they need the right edge profile. This guy gets it. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:11 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 19:58
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I do mine at 40-45ish degrees.
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May 7, 2016 03:56
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Cakefool posted:Citation needed. Gromit is his own goddamn citation son.
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May 14, 2016 18:31
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Home Depot has EGO stuff on special this weekend.
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May 26, 2016 13:26
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stubblyhead posted:Where do you see this? I looked on their website, and it's all the usual prices so far as I can tell. The flyer that went out with today's newspaper, I don't buy the paper but I do work at it  although it might be just locally, if so, sorry.
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May 26, 2016 23:43
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kid sinister posted:I forget if I asked this here before or not. Anyway, after 10+ years, my Craftsman cordless drill now stinks when I use it, like fried electronics. It seems to work just fine though. So what's the verdict? Brushes going bad? Does it have any rubber grippy surface?
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Jun 2, 2016 23:21
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Platystemon posted:Some of them degrade with nothing but time because the manufacturer used untested materials. Honestly they all do.
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Jun 3, 2016 05:47
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Laminator posted:My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for? Buy a cheapo grey market knock off from aliexpress and transfer the guts. Getting a grey market knock off is cheaper than trying to just get the carcass (but look for it anyways, rarely you can find it cheap).
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Jun 3, 2016 11:41
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kelvron posted:Thanks for the advice on the radial arm saw. I'm having them look into the original saw company. Looks good on the face, but no prices. I've passed the info on to the main buyer. Also look into the Bosch GCM12SD, it is a beastly machine. I would rate it second only to a Festool. Edit: mind you I don't have extensive experience with either the Bosch or a Festool but I have gotten to use them. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 22:44
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stealie72 posted:Ask me why I don't use identical gas cans any more, and why I gas up my new chainsaw from a can with "MIX" written on it in huge letters. Ask me why I bought a can of premix that looks nothing like my gas cans to keep my mix in.
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Jun 7, 2016 16:20
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uwaeve posted:Pressure washer recommendations? I'm OK spending for something that isn't garbage, and am fine with another small engine, as I think I want a gas-powered one. If it's run out of gas I can throw it in my basement for the winter, right? I assume it will want no-ethanol fuel. It'll get used a couple times a year for fairly large crap (house, shed, driveway, deck, fences, brickwork around planters). Under $400 would be good, I don't need contractor-grade stuff, I just want good quality and usability. If someone can tell me what are brands to head towards or stay away from, I can check out features. I bought a "black max" with a honda motor from Costco a few years back (at least 3 probably closer to 6) for around $350 maybe that has been used and abused on and off for that long for patio/house front/car cleaning (foam lances are legit the best thing ever). Not a single issue so far, I just spray the inlet with WD40 before storing it when I remember. The only thing I have replaced on it was the hose but that's strictly because my dogs are assholes with nothing better to do than chew through the hose one day. edit: I just thought of a small minus on it, the "handle" for the lance is a little long so it's a tiny bit awkward to use with my foam lance, but it's not a deal breaker.
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Jun 15, 2016 23:00
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All this talk of camming and impact drivers is giving me flashbacks of this weekend removing the goddamn screws from my rotors on my Accord, gently caress those screws.
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Jul 19, 2016 19:24
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stealie72 posted:Maybe not, but they drill out real nice like, since they rust solid to the hubs any place where they salt the roads in the winter. Or you live on an Island. Google Butt posted:Speaking of impacts, I'm about to do my first suspension install ever on my car.. I think an impact will make the job easier. I'm on a budget and I don't have a ton of storage space, so an electric is appealing.. but I'm not sure it's up to the job. Should I be looking at a cheap compressor from HF for this type of job? Depending on your budget go with a Senco 1-2HP or a better California Air Tools 1-2HP (the 10020C is probably your best fit, or a 1HP if that's your budget), you want around 4 CFM @ 90 PSI for most 1/2" impacts if you don't want to wait for it to refill after a few trigger pulls. I recommend you don't cheap out too much on either and get a decent wrench (Ingersoll Rand is pretty much the industry standard but there are others) too. And for the love of all that is sacred please get a torque limiter stick if you're going to do tires. deimos fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 16:47
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sharkytm posted:Aircat or the HF Earthquake are also solid choices. I have both, and they're about equal, although I think the Aircat is a little quieter. Yeah IR is not the be-all end all just usually the one I've seen used as a measuring stick, edited my post to reflect that (and other nuances I originally left out).
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Jul 21, 2016 00:24
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Spookydonut posted:Help! What kind of saw blade should I get for my circular saw? I mostly use it for cross cutting, but also have used it a bit for ripping. If you use it for woodworking look for a "finishing" thin kerf blade 40 or 60 teeth (and if woodworking is your life or you have money to burn a Forrest  ). If it's just general carpentry and don't-give-a-fuckits about finish just get the biggest baddest framing saw blade you want.
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Jul 26, 2016 23:40
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Mr. Mambold posted:Do they make a 60 tooth circular saw blade nowadays? I don't know but I've maybe seen 1 40 tooth ever. Freud makes a 60T they call "ultra finish". And Forrest makes this, but it's definitely on the extremely specialized end of the spectrum. Spookydonut posted:I've got a DeWalt 235mm circular saw, the blade in it has too much sap on the face of it to tell what it is, but it's got carbide teeth, I'd guess maybe 40 or 60 teeth, but it's pretty blunt. Is it worth trying to sharpen it? I am with the above poster, scrap it and buy a $20 (40-60T) finish blade and a $10 (24T) framing blade. deimos fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 19:06
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The absolute best plus for Ryobi 18V is the yearly two pack of high capacity for $100.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:32
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Sointenly posted:I have a 1 year old running around the house which is why I generally done do this. Makes life much easier if I can confine myself to one room at a time. California Air Tools compressors e: their quiet series is quiet-ish, the rest are fairly loud deimos fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Aug 9, 2016 |
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Aug 9, 2016 16:13
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I have the PC, it's light and haven't had any issue with brads (I've tried upto 2 in), once I have it dialed in it's consistent driving until you need to change sizes (adjustment is minimal). The only thing it doesn't have out of the box (you have to order a trigger for it) is bump firing. At first I thought I'd break the plastic casette but it works just fine.
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Aug 15, 2016 16:27
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Late to the stud finder talk but try this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012DNFP6/
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Aug 19, 2016 15:08
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Spookydonut posted:YES! That almost exactly Why not use a Datavac ED500 or Hurricane instead?
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Sep 6, 2016 23:51
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kid sinister posted:Yeah, but you have to make that. Why reinvent the wheel? Go get a hair dryer with a cool setting. You are quite underestimating the blowing capacity of an ED500.
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Sep 7, 2016 16:57
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Bad Munki posted:So you were just cutting the end off a table? How is that not possible (I dare say preferable) with a circular saw? Now I'm even more Guide rails are hard man.
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Sep 13, 2016 03:16
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than before!
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TheDon01 posted:Are there any companies that make a hewing/broad/bearded/goosewing axe anymore? One that isn't a $300 Gansfors Bruks preferably. Would love their axes but that's chainsaw kind of money. Check these guys out: http://stores.ebay.com/TOSA-Japan-Blade?_dmd=2&_nkw=bearded
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Oct 10, 2016 22:27
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