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Not an Anthem posted:Work is buying hearing protection and wanted to know if we had any favorites. Are the electronic noise dampening ones any good for shop work out just shooting sports? I kinda wanna go nuts and get electronic cutoff ones with Bluetooth to listen to music with too. Howard Leight Max plugs are still the best in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max If you want headphones (subpar, get in the way, but I've got some too because they are handy in the right situation) I'm not sure who had bluetooth in a decent quality phone, but these work great and are cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...eight+bluetooth I just plug a cable in and stuck it through my shirt.
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Apr 7, 2014 15:17
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Not an Anthem posted:Need good noise reduction from machining, air tools, other stuff so headset is a must. Do you consider plugs to not work as well as headsets? If so, are you sure you know how to install foam plugs? Many people don't.
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Apr 7, 2014 15:30
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Beat. posted:I would like advice/suggestions on air compressors. I want to buy an air compressor to do a few things - sandblasting, running a nail gun... Just so you know, you went from a small sub-$200 120v compressor that you can pick up and move around with one hand to something that comes attached to a pallet, costs $2k+ and needs a dedicated 30A 240v line with the addition of "sandblasting". So you may want to do some of your own very simple research into the devices you want to use and their PSI and CFM requirements, and then match those up to compressors so that you can come back and ask about something a bit more qualified like "What's the best 60 gal stand up compressor for the price?"
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Apr 8, 2014 19:26
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Beat. posted:Coming to this forum is me doing my very simple research, thanks for your help Really? Then you're pretty terrible are research. Best of luck with using an internet comedy forum for your purchase decisions.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:06
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Jonny Quest posted:I have the exact problem with my Leights. They're still comfortable and better than no ear protection but I can't use the electronic bits in the shop as it just amplifies motors, dust collectors, etc. Come to think of it I haven't even used them on the range yet. I've had that problem with mine as well as other ones from cheap to expensive. Twin cylinder commercial mower? No problem. Angle grinder? Amplifies it until I start grinding. The only time I turn on my actives is when they're plugged into my iphone or if I'm on the range with a bunch of people.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:49
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That seems reasonable. I really like the cordless circ saw, but I also have a corded one for bigger jobs. One thing you may want to look at/upgrade is to a drill that has a "hammer" setting if you're doing much drilling into concrete (you mentioned tapcons). FYI, I built my office addition with an older similar set of cordless tools (DeWalt 18v) and little else other than air nailers. If I had to do that job again (the drywall and siding part) I would have broken down and gotten a proper cordless drywall screw gun too (like Kastein said: they are awesome.) Since that set only comes with 2 batteries you can make you life a lot easier by picking up a couple more.
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Apr 17, 2014 15:33
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stubblyhead posted:I know you're not supposed to do that, but why is it bad? The paper provides the support to keep the screw from just ripping through the rock underneath. If you've ripped the paper the fastener you did it with is about worthless for holding the sheetrock up/on.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:44
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TopherCStone posted:It has a fine coating of ~50 year old sticky congealed packing grease on it that needs to be cleaned off. It's likely to be cosmolne, which is heated up and you dip things in it. It doesn't like to come off at room temperature. So.....hot water (put the whole thing in a tub and let it sit until it gets hot) followed by WD-40 and rags. You'll have it off in no time. This is one of the only situations you'll see me suggesting the use of WD-40, as this is what it was actually made for.
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Jun 19, 2014 15:36
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Except they're curved shaft, which I don't understand the point of. It makes the trimmer actively worse when used in the normal orientation or inverted because you're closer to the cutting head. Why the hell are consumer string trimmers set up like that?
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Jun 28, 2014 00:36
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Sointenly posted:For those who are doomed with plaster walls, what's your preferred method of cutting into them? Rotozip + shop vac. They even make brackets to attach a hose to the tool.
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Jul 8, 2014 16:20
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sharkytm posted:RotoZip bits don't like real plaster. The skim-coat stuff that some places use (like my house) it'll handle, albeit with difficulty. The old-school, 1/2" thick plaster... good loving luck. I mush have pretty drat good luck because I was cutting through plaster and lath with my rotozip just a few years ago when I was wiring a building built in the 1800s. Or were you using drywall bits when you tried to do this? You need the Sabers or Multipurpose bits if you want it to work.
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Jul 8, 2014 16:46
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coathat posted:If you do go with the makita tools you'll be able to travel in style. http://toolguyd.com/makita-18v-lxt-cordless-folding-bicycle/ I want one of those that recharges your batteries on the way to the next job site.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:00
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Hackan Slash posted:Everytime I paint I remember that I hate painting. Someone convince me whether or not to buy a paint sprayer. It would just be for painting a house's interior. Painting is mostly prep. A sprayer adds even more prep time unless it's a vacant that's partially finished. They also don't apply primer worth a poo poo (to the point where you should go over the primer coat with a roller to really jam it into fresh drywall). So whether that saves you time or not really depends on what you are trying to paint. If this is a repaint in an occupied home.......gently caress no.
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Sep 5, 2014 00:45
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FCKGW posted:Any opinions on this impact drill bit set? Lowes has it 1/2 off for the next month. I have one of those 4 and it's pretty much poo poo. The phillips bits in particular. It's obviously made from the finest Chinesium available.
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Sep 5, 2014 20:49
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stubblyhead posted:I don't have that set in particular, but I do have a similar DeWalt set. I always consider those to be consumables, particularly the Phillips bits. If you don't have anything at all I'd go ahead and get it, it looks like it's got a decent selection. Torx bits are a nice inclusion, that's one thing my set is missing that I wish it had. More drill bits is another, which this set seems to have covered also. I also consider bits to be consumables, so i guess I should have been more clear: these seem to be WAY too consumable.
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Sep 5, 2014 21:32
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Deedle posted:I like my bits to be very consumable. I'd rather ruin a bit than a screwhead. So cheap as chips bits and quality screws is my philosophy. Not to drag this ON and ON and ON, but seriously: I'm not new at this. I get that. Those bits are literally chewed up after a coulple dozen screws with no cam outs or anything else that should damage them. They are poo poo, and not worth even the low price they are being sold at.
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Sep 8, 2014 20:36
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melon cat posted:I need a corded rotary tool for cutting metal. Is Dremel still king for this, or should I consider other brands? I'm not sure a Dremel was ever king for cutting metal. They are for light work and overheat pretty quickly when pushed. Exactly what are you cutting? If it's anything substantial a 4.5" angle grinder is likely the way to go.
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Sep 15, 2014 18:51
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kid sinister posted:...with cutting disc. If you got a lot to cut, get a couple cutting discs, they wear down pretty fast. Yes, should have specified that. You can do surprisingly clean cuts with the right discs. Dremels and cutting discs are an exercise in frustration, but one I often find I need to deal with for detail work like cutting a stuck bearing race. The regular abrasive discs are garbage and shatter with any lateral force at all. I've started using fiber discs and they work a lot better.
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Sep 15, 2014 22:57
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Cakefool posted:Can someone educate me on what the different types of nailer are and where/what they should be used for please? Amazon vine sent me a free brad nailer and I'm wondering if I can build small structures with it. Small structures? If by that you mean maybe a bird house, then maybe. Brads are very small finishing nails. They are for attaching trim. There are a lot of different kinds of nails and nailers for nearly every one of them. You start with a framing nailer to frame something out, possibly a palm nailer for tough spots like joist hangers. Then move on to a coil nailer for siding/roofing. Then move on to a finish nailer for door trim/window trim. And down further to a brad nailer for really small detail trim. Even smaller and lighter than that is a pin nailer which I've never had a need for, but a lot of woodworkers/craftspeople seem to like them a lot.
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Sep 27, 2014 15:25
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Cakefool posted:So when it says it'll do 35mm brads, that's for really big trim? Or could I use those for attaching siding? Siding isn't attached with brads. The nails have to have larger heads on them (especially for vinyl siding).
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Sep 27, 2014 18:28
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Cakefool posted:So brads are headless nails, gotcha thanks. Looks like if I wanted to build anything of a decent size I'd need 2 more nail guns, framing and siding. Brads have very small heads. Pin nails have no heads. Siding is often done with a coil gun, and that will take care of roofing for you as well. You can mostly get by without a finish nailer if you have a hammer and don't care about speed. Unless you're installing windows. I wouldn't even bother without one. I'd strongly prefer one for doors as well. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 28, 2014 |
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Sep 28, 2014 16:08
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Sointenly posted:I want a stud finder that can accurately find a stud through button board and plaster... does such a tool exist? The Bosch GMS-120 is about the best one I've used. It's still a stud finder (so it's a piece of crap) but it's like the pretty horse in the glue factory.
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Oct 10, 2014 00:33
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Zhentar posted:The bucket can be pretty rough on your sealcoat too Not if whoever is plowing for you uses and appropriate bucket. (hint: it should have a rubber scraper on the bottom and should not just be their loose soil bucket)
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Oct 11, 2014 03:34
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Knyteguy posted:I've kept up a little on this thread about tools from Harbor Freight, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with their air compressors, and their pneumatic tools in general? I'm thinking of picking up a small compressor, stapler, and orbital sander to start. Should I look elsewhere even though I'm a new hobbyist? I don't need the tools to last for a lifetime or anything, but I also would like them to last a couple years at least with light-medium use. The compressors are poo poo. I've had TWO of the 30 gal 240v ones go to poo poo on me. I have a few of their air tools and they seem to be mostly alright. Just larger and less powerful than better makes.
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Nov 2, 2014 17:06
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I never knew they made a battery operated caulking gun .. is it really necessary?? I did a LOT of caulking back in the day and never once really saw a need for one. Hell yes it is (in the right situations). You can lay down a perfect bead and go way faster. Also, cold PL Premium is a major pain in the rear end the squeeze out. In fact, I was just doing that and it sucked. Same thing goes with battery powered grease guns. If you've got a machine to service every morning before use it's the difference between 5 minutes and 15 minutes.
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Jan 19, 2015 21:18
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Speaking as a cook, you want a stand mixer for exactly the same reason you want (say) a drill press. Totally agree with this, but the reason there are so many stand mixers that see no use is because even fewer people bake than cook. So don't buy/register for things you don't do or intend to do. I'm an old school kinda guy and bake my own bread. Without a bread machine. (gasp!) Now I have my kids trained to do it. And they like to.
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Jan 20, 2015 00:16
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TheBigBad posted:Anyone have an recommendations for a hobbyist mig welder. This bottom of the barrel Chicago Electric isn't working out. What are you trying to weld? Material and thickness. Are you actually using GMAW (MIG) or FCAW (flux core)? Why is it not working out? Are you using harbor freight consumables that came with it? (these questions boil down to: it might be fine for your purposes with the right consumables and settings)
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Jan 22, 2015 02:19
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TheBigBad posted:Yes to the HF consumables. Do not buy another welder until you buy a proper roll of flux core wire from not-harbor-freight. ESPECIALLY if you are using the spool the welder came with (which is rumored to be universally worse than the rolls you find on the shelf - which are rumored to be of varying quality). Your welder might be just fine.
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Jan 22, 2015 03:29
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stubblyhead posted:Do other manufacturers use Honda motors in their pressure washers, or are you just saying "get a Honda"? Yes, most pressure washer manufacturers (if any) buy their motors from someone else. The DeWalt I've been borrowing from a friend (because even the "nice" Karcher electric one I have sucks because electric) has a Honda on it. I'm probably going to end up buying one myself. It's this one: http://www.maxtool.com/dewalt-3400-...CFSIV7AodzHoAmA (first result on the model - I know nothing about maxtool)
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Jan 30, 2015 15:16
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:The commercial grade electrics are pretty nice. 3HP 3 phase motor, VFD, and about the same CFM/PSI as the bigger gas washers, only without the whole 'need to maintain a gas engine' and 'requires hearing protection' aspects. lovely thing is you need to be near a 3 phase plug to run it, but that's what 50 ft of extension cord are for. Am am most definitely more than 50 feet from 3 phase service. As are most people in the US in a residential area.
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Jan 30, 2015 20:41
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Crotch Fruit posted:I went with a Harbor Freight 8gal compressor and it works pretty great. Haven't owned it very long, but Google reviews all said HF compressors are safe. As a corollary, I'll tell you that I've been through three of the same model (smallest 240V). The first one lasted about a week, the next one lasted about 6 months in which time I sanded and painted a car using it, then the last one (which is currently dead) dies after another year of occasional service. The wrist pin was seized and trashed the piston. I got the parts but haven't bothered to install them yet.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:54
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Crotch Fruit posted:You say its the smallest 240V but mine is 120v, where are you from? Sucks about the first one, lemons happen, but sanding and painting a car sounds like too big a project for an 8 gallon. The tag on mine said it would only be good for occasional spraying. I did get a 1 year warranty on mine, I will be happy even if it dies right after the warranty ends. It's 21 gallon 240v, not a 120v 8 gallon. It's this piece of poo poo right here:  And even if you think sanding/painting a car is too big for that, the first and third ones munched themselves in short order. Yet I still have my 15 gallon 120v 15 year old Craftsman that has sanded an painted like 6 cars in it's time along with everything else I've thrown at it. The only reason I went with the larger HF one was for faster refresh/more CFMs so I could sand longer/not have to wait as much. Again from purely anecdotal my-own-only experience it was a mistake and a waste of money. Buy the largest and most importantly best quality compressor you can afford. Quality comes before capacity because unless you are doing poo poo with it for a living (in which case you should be able to justify a proper compressor) you can wait for it to pump back up.
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Feb 6, 2015 04:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The compressor's not very big, But it perfect for a nailer. That's also a pretty good compressor. They are considered "disposable" in the trade, but it should last you. I actually have one that has a bad high limit switch. It's not worth fixing, but still handy to have around and carefully use.
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Feb 7, 2015 00:21
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lwoodio posted:The R350RHE says it uses .17 cubic feet per cycle at 100 psi, which is a lot more than a roofing or brad gun. You are going to be able to shoot like 4 nails in succession before you have to wait for it to pump back up. Which is pretty much perfect for framing. He's not doing this for a living and he's not gonna be all that fast by himself on a first big project.
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Feb 7, 2015 21:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Well, the big question is, how much does it use to drive the 8d nails I need for securing plywood? Because I'll be driving far more of those than I will be of the framing nails. If it uses the same amount regardless of nail size, then that could potentially be a problem. Nah, it won't. If you try to leave that thing turned all the way up driving 8d nails it will blow them through the plywood. You may still be waiting a bit, but it shouldn't be too terrible. For what it's worth, I'm a big fan of screws for things like this. A nice lightweight hammer driver with deckmate or other star/square bit screws does a nice job. Yeah, it takes a bit longer but things are real sold when you're done.
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Feb 7, 2015 21:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My plans were required to specifically list what kinds of nails I was going to use for basically everything; I'd need to find (and get okayed by the city) "equivalent" screws for each use case. DO NOT DO THIS. Not worth the effort. You're too far along to worry about that kind of things now. If I knew your plan approval included those kind of details I wouldn't have even brought it up. But to clarify: I was talking about sheet stock. So the plywood on your walls, subfloor and any drywall/etc. Roof sheeting who cares - that's what nail guns are for. Screws are fine for framing but too slow and basically unnecessary when your screwed-in sheet stock is holding it together. I'm assuming that if your fasteners had to be approved on your plans that the framing/sheeting nails are ring shank. They'll do the job just fine.
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Feb 8, 2015 03:45
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melon cat posted:What's the best oil/lubricant to use for my pneumatic nailer? My Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor's user manual stresses the importance of using it, but doesn't suggest an appropriate brand. Air tool oil. It doesn't matter what brand. What matters is using it. Not every googlable/manual answered question needs to be asked here.
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Feb 19, 2015 03:49
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melon cat posted:I really don't see what was wrong with my original question. You ask a constant stream of low-effort questions that demonstrate you've done absolutely no research ahead of time (and not just in this forum). Questions that are easily answered with a simple google search. This was yet another one of those questions.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:09
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Bad Munki posted:If everything goes according to plan and I get to build a shop at my next place, I'm strongly considering radiant floor heating. DO IT.  I haven't hooked this up yet, but at least it's in the floor. I'll have it ready for next winter. The radiant I put into the attached office has been kicking rear end for two years now.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:59
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Bad Munki posted:On the topic of in-floor heating: I have this feeling that having an extra-thick slab would be a good thing for in-floor heating, since it would have more mass and thus hold its heat better in the winter once it got up to temp. Anyone have any idea if it would actually make enough of a difference to be worthwhile? Insulation below the slab is a lot more important than slab thickness, unless you expect to be opening the door/exchanging air a lot. Then the extra thermal mass will help you recover the room heat. I'm at 5" of 4500 PSI crete on that side of the barn, mostly because it was a little bit more than what I needed to safely put in a lift.
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Mar 6, 2015 21:19
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