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Currently, I have speakers from a crappy theater-in-a-box. I have a $50 Crutchfield gift card, and I was thinking about getting a decent pair of bookshelf speakers for the front that I could transition to the back when I can afford floor standing fronts. I've already upgraded the receiver to an Onkyo NR-509. It's slow going, because I have to do this without pissing off my wife.  Here is what I was looking at: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107R150/Polk-Audio-R150.html $100 after gift card was my wife's sweet spot, but if these are significantly better, then I can probably distract her long enough to get them: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107TSI100B/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Black.html Alternatively, I could pick up a powered woofer - I'm currently going without any kind of bass. Unfortunately, Crutchfield doesn't have the PSW10, so I'd have to go with this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107PSW...dio-PSW108.html I'm not set on Polk, but since I have the gift card and Polk seems like the only decent brand on there, that's what I'm looking at. Suggestions? KillHour fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 08:13
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The Dave posted:So you all really really eater one box solutions right? I'm just really lazy, don't care *that* much about the sound quality, just want something with a little more oomph than the TV's speakers. All I would be doing is watching movies and TV with this, MAYBE playing an X-Box game every now and then. The problem with these boxed systems is that they're really lacking in features. They generally have no expansion capabilities, and have the shittiest subwoofers possible. That "1000W" spec is peak output power, and is completely meaningless. The real spec you want is RMS, and that isn't even listed anywhere. The entire system weighs 30lbs combined, including speakers. That's WAY too light for a proper system. If you really want a system in a box, this one will cost you a whole $10 more and sound way better with more features, has an active subwoofer (which you pretty much never see with systems in a box), a REAL receiver that is pretty capable on its own, and will be able to be upgraded with better speakers later: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S550...#productDetails Note that it weighs more than double what the Samsung system does. No Bluray player, though. Edit: Do yourself a favor and get banana plugs. Trust me. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=9437&seq=1&format=2 http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Maestro-Banana-Plugs-Connectors/dp/B003EGIE2S You may also want to get thicker speaker cable, since the system only comes with 24ga cables: http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=109&cp_id=10239 http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH16100SR-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0029HHIDY/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y 16ga should be fine. KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:47 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 05:25
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I think the issue is more with cost than not being willing to piece a system together. If you're going to drop a grand on a system you should probably just do it a la carte. Edit: Get an Amazon account, jonathan. KillHour fucked around with this message at 06:30 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 06:05
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Here's a $1000 5.1 system that would kick the poo poo out of any system in a box: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR61...ywords=TX-NR616 ($350) http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-FS52-LR-Designed-standing-Loudspeaker/dp/B008NCD2S4 x2 ($250) - Be sure to have it shipped from Amazon. Default is 3rd party and will charge for shipping. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-C22-Designed-Channel-Speaker/dp/B008NCD2EI ($100) http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TS...8&keywords=polk ($180) http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10...1&keywords=polk ($110) http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH16100SR-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0029HHIDY/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y ($10) No shopping around required. KillHour fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 06:30
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The Dave posted:That does look pretty beefy, Lightning Drops also says that it's been going down to $329.99 quite frequently the last 2-3 months. I did like that the Samsung had wireless rears, right now we have carpeting and could hide the wire but in the future when we go to hard woods I would have to run the wire alone the peremeter trim or something. Wireless speakers suck. If you're putting in hardwood anyways, it makes more sense to run under the floor (since you'd be ripping it up regardless). You can use a floor box by the speaker to connect to, which allows you to do things like place the speaker away from the wall. Alternatively, just get a sound bar. In the end, it's your system and you can do whatever you want with it. It's not like we're going to come over to your house and kick you in the dick for not listening to us. We've just been around the block and know the issues you're going to run into. I do want to point out the following, though: The Samsung system only has 2 HDMI inputs - 1 for the bluray player and 1 left over. You're probably going to wish you had more. The Samsung system uses proprietary connectors for the speakers. Either they will be too long and you'll have to bundle them up, or they'll be too short and you'll have to compromise on where you place the speakers. The Samsung system probably has a lovely power supply and will die within 5 years. Edit: The Samsung system went up in price since yesterday. 
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May 5, 2013 17:22
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If you have to put your ear up to it and try REALLY HARD to notice a difference that you're not even sure exists, you need to stop sperging out about it. Edit: Personally, I think you're nuts for spending $1500 on a pair of speakers in the first place. I haven't heard those particular speakers, though, so maybe they give you a spontaneous orgasm when you turn them on or something. KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:15 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 12, 2013 17:11
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Mulloy posted:They are at about rat level but with the furniture I have my options are presently limited. I have these at home. http://www.amazon.com/SANUS-SYSTEMS-BF-31B-Speaker-Stands/dp/B00006JQ5O http://www.sanus.com/ca/en/products/speaker-foundations/sp-basic/BF31 They're nice, but you could probably make something nicer yourself for 1/4 the cost if you have some woodworking tools.
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May 19, 2013 20:04
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You know, I have the PSW125, which to me sounds pretty good. I can't really let it stretch its legs since I live in an apartment, though, so YMMV.
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May 28, 2013 05:40
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KillHour posted:You know, I have the PSW125, which to me sounds pretty good. I can't really let it stretch its legs since I live in an apartment, though, so YMMV. I'm stupid. It's a PSW505, which is only 40W less than the RW-12. The frequency response isn't quite as low (28Hz vs 24Hz), but the THD is better, according to specs. I don't have response graphs to compare them, but it puts out a lot of kick for not a lot of money. Newegg's having a sale: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290130 Edit: Found one. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?19484-psw505-frequency-response Looks pretty good to me, but I'm sure jonathan will have more to weigh in on. 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:48 on May 28, 2013 |
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May 28, 2013 17:40
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It's irrational as hell, but I want one so bad.  http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ6200-31-Band-Graphic-Equalizer/dp/B0002Z82MQ/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
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May 29, 2013 03:57
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The Locator posted:Thanks. Use them to make a pair of these: http://raindefence.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-make-build-your-own-DIY-sonosub-style-cylinder-subwoofer You'll never need a subwoofer upgrade again.
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May 29, 2013 14:49
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HTJ posted:I'm a bit confused about Ohms. http://hometoys.com/emagazine.php?url=/htinews/feb04/articles/polk/impedence.htm Basically, a speaker's impedance tells you how much current it draws. A low impedance speaker draws more current. Amplifiers have a "nominal" impedance, but as long as you make sure you're not overloading your amp by asking for more current than it can provide, you're fine. If you try to put a bunch of 2 ohm speakers on an amp with 8 ohm nominal impedance, you'll probably blow it up. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:20 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 01:00
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Skeleton Ape posted:Many of the DIY subwoofer plans I've been seeing seem like they're specifically designed to annoy neighbors up to a mile away. They're also impractically huge. What would be a good, reasonably-sized match for one of the Waveguide speaker kits? You can make them any size you want: http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sonosub.htm
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May 30, 2013 17:42
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jonathan posted:The EP 4000 is good for around 650watts RMS with a 4 ohm load, and 1100 or so with a 2 ohm load. I'm with jonathan, here. Adding another 505 is going to get you another 3 db, which is probably going to be enough. If you really want to go with DIY subs, though, I'll gladly pay the shipping to take that 505 off your hands.  Kidding... kind of. Edit: Your next bang-for-the-buck upgrade is definitely a better center channel. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 01:33
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Are you actually using the XLR connectors on the thing, or just the RCA jacks? If you're not using the XLRs and you still want a CD player with a well-regarded DAC, just get this: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-C-7030-Compact-Player-Black/dp/B004UR487A/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1370523786&sr=1-2 Also: Duuuuuuude, you spent 600 bucks on a CD player post-1992. What the gently caress?
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Jun 6, 2013 14:05
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monkeybounce posted:I already have the heavy drinking down. I'm an IT guy. But therein lies my problem. My mind works at: specs versus cost. Sold. I can't "feel" the difference between two mother boards--I know what the difference is. If at all possible, try to find a way to listen to them before hand. The thing with computers is that they're completing definite tasks, and at a specific task you can say one is definitively better than another. The task of a speaker is to produce something that sounds good to you. If you listen to the speakers and they sound the same, get the cheaper one. I can tell you about SPL and response curves all day, but it won't matter a drat bit if you like one speaker better than another. From my point of view, though, since you asked: I have Polk TSi200 speakers and they're nice, but definitely need a subwoofer. The TSi400's look like they have the same drivers, just an extra one on the bottom. A 34hz low end response is not very good for a surround sound setup. Even getting a small sub and turning the volume down low on it would be helpful. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 19:45
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monkeybounce posted:I've listened to the floor speakers, just not the center channel. I've found a store in my area that has them in stock so I'm going to go compare this evening. My main problem is I'm going to have to do a blind test because if I know I'm listening to the CS20, it's going to sound better because it's the 'better' model. I have the PSW505 sub, which is probably overkill for you since you'd have to turn it way down. That being said, if you plan on moving somewhere you can really crank it, getting one PSW505 now and one later would give you enough boom that you'd probably never feel the need to upgrade. Like I said, the TSi200's sound really nice. I plan on getting these and moving the TSi200's to the surround channels, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the TSi400's. Edit: To make a computer analogy: Polks are considered good "budget" speakers in the sense that an i5 3750k is considered a good "budget" processor. It doesn't have hyper-threading, but it's drat good performance for the price, and nobody is going to fault you with getting one. Double Edit: Besides, unless you have a dedicated home theater room, more expensive speakers would be a waste. I'd rather spend $500 bucks on a good wall treatment than get $500 more expensive speakers. KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 20:16
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Stupid, I know, but I think we all suffer from it to some degree.
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Zorilla posted:This is a long shot, but does anybody know if an A/V receiver exists with 3 component inputs and at least 3 HDMI inputs? I ask this for two reasons: Get one of these. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011406&p_id=5971&seq=1&format=2 4+ HDMI inputs with 2 component is easy. http://us.onkyo.com/Products/model.php?m=TX-NR525&class=Receiver&source=RelatedModels
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Jun 7, 2013 13:27
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Listerine posted:The unit turns on fine, it's the RCC-955. The carousel seems to rotate fine. Some CDs it just plain does not detect- the carousel will rotate to the disc, and after a moment, it just moves on to the next tray as if there was no disc loaded. This is consistent for the disc- if I move it to another tray, the player will not detect it in the new tray. It's not a problem with the tray either because discs that are detected and player do so regardless of the tray into which they are loaded. How is the CD player hooked up to the rest of your system? There are 2 parts of a CD player that matter: the DAC and the amplifier. That CD player doesn't look like it has a built in amplifier, so the only important piece of equipment in there is the DAC, assuming you're using the analog outputs. If you're using the digital coax output, then there is literally no difference in sound between your CD player and this for 100 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/TEAC-PD-D2610...ductDescription Edit: I have no idea why the gently caress anybody would buy a cd player with vacuum tubes other than to say they own a cd player with vacuum tubes. That player even has a digital output. Seriously, what the gently caress? Double edit: I guarantee the DAC in that Onkyo I posted earlier is better than the DAC in your Rotel. "Audiophile-rated" CD players are ALL snake oil bullshit. KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 05:23
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Zorilla posted:Thanks. This tipped me off to the fact that Onkyo has some other affordable models that seem to meet all my requirements (e.g. the TX-SR705). Up to this point, I was looking a Harman Kardon receivers because they're just so drat pretty. I'm a sucker for looks, but if the price is right... Don't bother with the SR line, IMO. Most (all?) of the NR line has 7 independent inputs, and using a converter to put the audio stream on the HDMI with the video stream makes switching components significantly easier.
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Jun 8, 2013 21:32
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Zorilla posted:Thanks. I'll definitely keep this in mind. I'm still looking at a TX SR-705 because I found one at a good price, but I swear I'm not ignoring your advice here. I'll definitely look at the NR-series if that falls though. I meant the converter I linked to earlier. Are you using RCA or SPDIF to go from your composite devices to the receiver? And The Locator's right, you can redefine the inputs however you like. There are 8 selection options on the NR515: BD/DVD, CBL/SAT, GAME, PC, AUX, TV/CD, EXTRA1, and EXTRA2. AUX is fixed to the front and can't be changed, so there are 7 assignable inputs. KillHour fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 22:35
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Zorilla posted:Just to clarify, everything I have that isn't HDMI is going over component, not composite. As far as audio on these specific devices, my Xbox (original) is using S/PDIF over optical, my PS2 is using RCA stereo (but can use optical if need be), and my Wii is RCA stereo. I don't forsee any problems no matter which receiver I choose as long as as I assign audio correctly, and adding a converter would just add clutter and not reduce the number of cables. If I absolutely cannot find a receiver with 3x component inputs, I'll keep it in mind, though. Sorry, meant composite. Yeah, there are only 5 input buttons on the remote - you need to use the OSD past that. I've changed my mind; buy one of these: 
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Jun 8, 2013 23:17
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Listerine posted:It's looking more likely that my disc player has crapped out. I appreciate the recommendation for the Onkyo C-7030, but I see that it doesn't support HDCD or SACD playback. I'd like to keep that playback in my replacement, is there anything recommended? No HDCD support, but this is going to be the best value for an SACD player: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Playstation-3-Slim-160GB/dp/B003VUO6H4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371041644&sr=8-2&keywords=PS3 I guess you can use a computer with Windows Media Player if you REALLY want to hear your HDCDs in their full glory. Edit: This will play both, but it's absurdly expensive for what it is: http://www.amazon.com/OPPO-BDP-103-...#productDetails KillHour fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Jun 12, 2013 |
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Jun 12, 2013 13:55
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Endless Mike posted:Only certain models do. The one linked does not. Ah, yeah. I forgot it was only bc versions that supported them. Sorry.
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Jun 13, 2013 01:40
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neogeo0823 posted:I won't be able to try right now, as we're in the middle of moonlight bowling. I can try pulling the system apart when I get into work tomorrow night though. As far as I can see though, looks like Box #2 outputs RCA into Box #3, which outputs that really thick microphone-connector-looking wire with a round connector with 3 pins in it to both #4 boxes. That's an XLR connection. Does the amplifier have an RCA input? If not, you need to get these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4775&seq=1&format=2
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Jun 15, 2013 06:05
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HFX posted:Anyone want to steer me away from dropping $600 tonight on a pair of TSI 500's ($200 each) and a pair of TSI 200's (200 for both). I think that is the price I saw at Fry's last night. Already have a CS10 and a PSW 505. I have a pair of TSi200's, and they're pretty great. I've never heard the 500's, but I'd imagine they'd be nice.
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Jun 18, 2013 18:56
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dreesemonkey posted:Before I moved everything to the server rack I had it all setup and working just fine, the only big difference now is the 50' HDMI run back to the tv. What kind of HDMI cable are you using? You could use one of these and see if it helps: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9432&seq=1&format=2 There's no HDMI spec for length, but 50 ft is the top end of what will typically work with a passive cable. KillHour fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 21, 2013 |
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Jun 21, 2013 18:25
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It will try and handshake but the signal isn't strong enough, on the off chance it does complete the handshake the picture is super snowy.
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dreesemonkey posted:I bought two of these, well reviewed though I guess 26 -> 22 awg could make a difference. The difference isn't the wire gauge. The Monoprice ones are actually 28AWG. The difference is that the Monoprice ones have a chip built in to correct attenuation. 26AWG is absolutely too thin for a 50 ft passive cable.
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Jun 21, 2013 18:38
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dreesemonkey posted:You may be right but it doesn't explain why my xbox still works with handshake or picture issues. Your xbox might have a slightly stronger/cleaner signal coming out that kept it from just going over the edge. HDMI is pretty much all or nothing in terms of working.
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Jun 21, 2013 18:47
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The Locator posted:At $150 each, a pair of these guys (Polk PSW505) are an amazing deal for an average person doing normal home theater or music. Two thumbs up. Absolutely agree. Can't wait until I get a house instead of an apartment so I can really stretch its legs. Are you getting humming when you turn them up past about 2/3? I get humming if I crank the volume knob on the back.
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Jul 1, 2013 03:22
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Listerine posted:I'm having trouble finding a source player that will handle SACD, HDCD, etc. that isn't some audiophile high end disgustingly priced component. The Oppo BDP-103 that was linked earlier in the thread is the best I've found so far (still not cheap, but within my disposable income range), and since it's a blu-ray player it has the added attraction of being able to replace the PS3 I have on my living room TV, freeing that up to be the player on my bedroom TV. Yes, it has digital out. But wouldn't it just be cheaper to get an HTPC at that point?
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Jul 9, 2013 14:10
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DizzyBum posted:My wife and I are finally purchasing our first big TV together in a couple weeks! After that, I'd like to look into setting up a sound system for it. Primary use would be for console games. We do watch plenty of TV and sometimes movies but we want to make sure our games sound great more than anything else. If you only have $400-500, you may want to consider the second-hand market. A 5.1 receiver is going to eat up at least $250, leaving you very little for speakers. For a decent 3.1 system, I'd aim for $600-800. You can probably do a cheap Denon receiver and entry level Polk speakers, if you're willing to go without a subwoofer. That being said, the subwoofer is pretty important with bookshelf speakers, so.... Maybe a 2.1 to start? Dialog will suck in movies, though. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 01:36
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jonathan posted:Buy used. Seconded. And go 2.1.
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Aug 8, 2013 23:22
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Mouse Cadet posted:Why do you recommend 2.1 over 3.0? Because you'll spend the same on a sub as you would on a center channel speaker, but you'll get way more out of it.
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Aug 9, 2013 05:33
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Mouse Cadet posted:So are there any bookshelf speakers that produce decent bass? No.
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Aug 9, 2013 17:50
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ImpactVector posted:Thanks for the heads up. I'll take it back. Craigslist for something that specific would probably be pretty tough since I'm living in Eugene, OR. I'm not really even seeing anything up in Portland. I'll just wait until I have some extra cash again. The Polk PSW10 is much better for the money (mostly due to being a 10" speaker instead of 8"), but still has trouble on the low end (anything less than 28Hz or so). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290034 If you can stretch it, the PSW505 is a beast for the money. If you ever feel the need to upgrade from that, you can just get a second one and put most movie theaters to shame. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290130 The Klipsch Sub 12 is nice, but you have to find them used or they run $300-$400 - which is a little steep for most people, since you can get 2 PSW505's for just a little more. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 01:26
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Shrinkage posted:Thanks for the advice. What sub are you looking at for $400? http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12...keywords=PSW505 If this isn't enough sub for you, you should be looking at this thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3541019
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Sep 18, 2013 03:15
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Capt. Awesome posted:The major limiting factor, is that the wife isn't feeling the floor-standing speakers at all, so we're going with whatever we can have mounted. Ahem.  http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/on-stage-stands-speaker-wall-mount-bracket-pair Seriously though, have you considered in-wall speakers? They look nice and you can get much better sound out of them than you can with satellites.
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Sep 18, 2013 18:19
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Capt. Awesome posted:Good to know about the KEFs, a lot of people seem to love those for some reason. I'm sure they MLs will sound fine, but probably won't be the best. Like you mentioned, we're trading sound quality for looks (and a higher price tag).. I guess we just need to determine what that threshold is. Since the wife acceptance factor is the limiting issue here, you should take her to best buy to look at the Andrew Jones Pioneer speakers. They're floor-standing, but they don't look it. The first time I saw them I thought "These are the speakers everyone raves about? They're so tiny!" You could probably even find a way to wall-mount them. They really are surprisingly small in person.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:11
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BlackMK4 posted:Thanks, man. I picked those up along with a Leipai 2020A+ and uprated power adapter... very happy for the price of $129 total. Time to save a little bit and get a sub (and sell this amp and get one with a bass channel). You don't need an amp with a bass channel if you get a powered sub.
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Sep 25, 2013 13:48
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