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Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I hope this is the best place to post my question. I have a set of Logitech Z-2300 2.1 multimedia speakers: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836121122 Last night, the speakers suddenly died. I started playback of a video and no sound came out, so I checked the control puck to see if the speakers were turned off (they're always on) and the light was off but the power button was on. I turned the speakers on/off to no avail. I tried power cycling the main power switch on the subwoofer to no avail. I tried a different outlet to no avail.

If I plug in the speakers, there's a faint buzzing sound coming from the subwoofer. If I turn on the main power switch, the sound basically goes away. If I then turn on the power button, the speakers will turn on/play for a second before powering off. If I turn them on/off again, they don't power on, but if I power cycle the main switch, they DO play for a second.

I bought them around November 2010 and they have a 2 year warranty, but I did buy them with an Amex which supposedly extends the warranty another year. Still, I'd rather try to fix them since the replacement model Z623 is awful.

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Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I'm trying to decide whether to use a Polk CS2 center or buy another of my DCM TFE60 fronts to use as a center, but I'd have to place it horizontally. The CS2 has a 1" cloth tweeter and 2x 6.5" woofers while my fronts have a 1.18" (30mm) metal tweeter with 1x 6.5" woofer. I really like my fronts.

I know standard advice is to get another TFE60, but I'd have to place it horizontally, and if the CS2 is a "better" speaker and not too different, wouldn't it make sense to use it? I don't know the importance of the extra woofer, though the CS2 is louder (I adjusted the volume every time I switched speakers in my testing).

In terms of testing CS2 vs. horizontal TFE60, they sound very similar. The CS2 sounds a bit more directed toward me--is this desirable in a center? That's probably because the TFE60 has better dispersion. It also has slightly better bass.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 07:14 on May 21, 2020

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


TheMadMilkman posted:

Without knowing exactly what you’re listening to and what you’re noticing, it’s really hard to say what “more directed” means. I would say that in terms of home theater usage, I wouldn’t want a speaker that seems to draw attention more than the others.
With dialogue, the CS2 sounds like it coming from the speaker, while the TFE60 sounds... I don't want to say more natural because that's a loaded term, but the dialogue is less emphasized. The scene I'm testing with is 4 minutes into Super 8. School just let out so there's a lot of ambient noise from other students, buses, and the soundtrack.

I also extensively tested with vocal music, namely Eric Clapton "Tears in Heaven" and Norah Jones "Don't Know Why". The only real noticeable difference here is the TFE60 has slightly better bass.

quote:

If you’re using a subwoofer (or will be in the future) there isn’t any major benefit to the dual 6.5” drivers over a single one.
I have a Hsu STF-2 so no concerns on bass.

e: Sold the CS2 and bought another TFE60, the last new-old-stock on the market. Here's to 3 matching front speakers! :cheers:

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 00:17 on May 23, 2020

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

Personally I hate cramming a TV in the corner.

Besides being a tougher setup to work around, it is probably going to sound considerably worse than putting it on a flat wall.
On a related note, the interior design megathread has been poking fun at me because I’ve been wanting to redo my living room while prioritizing my home theater setup. They made suggestions like moving the TV way to the side so it doesn’t block a window (the window is useless) and putting the subwoofer in a nicer looking location.

Few of us have a living room that is conducive to both aesthetics and acoustics, so you have to decide on what’s your priority.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I would say if you can’t position your rear speakers effectively, don’t bother with them. Yes they’re great for 5.1 effects but if they’re poorly positioned they can actually detract from the experience.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 08:37 on May 30, 2020

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


A popular local club closed down due to coronavirus and they’re auctioning off their stuff. Some of the stuff looks interesting but it would all be overkill for my current or any future home: https://rasmus.com/auctions/CsG4JNoEvIKKNoapridN/a/M30372-18th-Lounge-DC-Nite-Club-Music-Venue-Auction---Washington--DC

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

meh none of that stuff seems like a terribly good deal and I'm not particularly interested in any of the PA stuff.
I'm surprised that a lof of that gear is already fetching as much money as it is. Also impressed by the sheer volume of stuff they've got too.
The club had 4 floors including an open roof. Different DJ’s/music in each space.

Really surprised they went under since it was such a staple but I guess no revenue for 6+ months will do that.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Not sure why you mentioned your TV. Aren’t your speakers plugged into the receiver? Are you using ARC and having issues with streaming apps?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Demon_Corsair posted:

A bunch of different stuff. youtube 5.1 tests, movies and tv shows I have downloaded in plex and vlc, flac music files in vlc.
Youtube is only stereo. The 5.1 videos are fake. None of that looks like 5.1 unless the movies you downloaded are actually 5.1.

quote:

Some googling has lead me to believe that since the tv is at the end of the chain, that is what nvidia/windows detects. And since the tv can only do stereo, the hdmi connection only sends stereo.

Yes, speakers are plugging into the receiver. As far as I can tell, everything is using arc. Unless you need a special hdmi cable for ARC?
No, Windows will only see as far as the receiver. And your TV should be able to send 5.1 to your speakers via ARC. You don’t need a special cable but ARC can be finicky and crappy cables can make it worse.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Demon_Corsair posted:

Now I'm even more confused. Grabbed a toslink cable yesterday, hooked my pc to the tv, then sound out from the tv to amp. Didn't work at all, now windows really sees it at stereo and no other options.

So this morning, I plug things back in the way there work. TV to receiver, remove the optical cable. Now the surround speakers work. I can use the sound modes for stereo stuff and it mostly works.

But I still have no sub.

I have no idea how unplugging and replugging fixed some speakers. Maybe I should unplug and boot things up in various orders and the sub will magically start working again?
What outputs on the receiver and what inputs on the sub are you using to hook up? Do you have your receiver set so that it knows there's a sub?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Demon_Corsair posted:

I'm not sure what was going on. I did a factory reset of the receiver, then ran audessy again, and now it just works.
Maximum “did you turn it off and on again?”

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


PRADA SLUT posted:

I like these options, one question about ARC though. How big of a deal is it for my use case? My TV is an LG OLED55B6P (2016) and I'm not sure if it supports eARC like the B&O, or if it matters for my use case?

I'm watching content from my Apple TV only, either from Plex or a streaming service, with occasional connections from my Switch / PC for game things.
eARC is basically ARC 2.0 and is required for HD surround sound and Atmos, but regular ARC supports Dolby Digital 5.1 which is fine for most people.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


FYI, Costco had this 5.1 Klipsch system for $350 at my local store: https://www.costco.com/klipsch-reference-theater-pack-5.1-channel-surround-sound-system.product.100492734.html

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I bought a used Hsu STF-2 subwoofer 3 years ago and it’s been great. It’s hooked up to the sub out on an old Sony 5.1 receiver. I think it died over the weekend while I was out of town.

For a couple months, it’s been making a buzzing sound if it doesn’t get a signal while it’s waiting to auto shut off. When I got back tonight, it was making that buzzing sound. Now, even when switched off (but plugged in), it makes the buzzing sound, and it doesn’t play anything when receiving a signal.

Any recs for troubleshooting? Maybe a blown fuse? If troubleshooting doesn’t work, any recs for an affordable 8 or 12” subwoofer?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

Try isolating just the receiver and sub on a power bar, and try a different RCA cable to connect it. If it behaves the same, something on the amp board is most likely blown. Replace the fuse on the back just to be sure first though. You're probably better off replacing it than trying to fix it.
Sorry, just to be clear, the sub is the issue, not the receiver. If nothing is plugged into the sub, as soon as I plug in power, even if the power switch is off, it makes the buzzing sound.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Dogen posted:

If it’s humming without an input cable plugged in it’s most likely something with the sub itself, unfortunately.
I checked the 250V 2.5A fuse and it was fine. I had some 250V 3.15A fuses sitting around and they didn’t help either. :smith:

Fozzy The Bear posted:

What is your definition of affordable?
The sub is part of a 5.1 system in my living room. I listen to tons of EDM and watch a decent amount of movies. Are SVS, Hsu, REL, and Rythmik still the best bang for buck brands? On my local FB and CL, the cheapest option is an SVS PB1000 for $400. That’s probably the upper limit of what I want to spend for used. For a new sub, I could probably do $600. In an ideal world, I’d find a decent used 8 or 10” sub like the STF-2 for $250. I got mine for $90 which I realize was a killer deal and not normal.

I live in an 1100 sq ft condo so while I have concrete floors and the downstairs neighbor has never asked me to turn the music down, there have been instances where the bass travels beyond my living room, through my bedroom, to the old lady who lives next door. As a result, my STF-2 was set to like 20%. So I don’t need loudness but I do want extension. Should I look into cheaper used subs from Klipsch, JBL, or Polk, or would they just be muddy and not extend much below 40Hz?

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Aug 15, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

RSL Speedwoofer 10s is 450USD shipped and it's fantastic.
Oh yeah I completely forgot about the Speedwoofer. Seems like a new 10S MKII with warranty for $450 is a better choice than a used PB1000 non-Pro for $400.

On an unrelated note, I found a pair of Klipsch KG 1.2 speakers (6.5" driver, 1" tweeter) in the freebie area of my building. My computer audio setup is the Klipsch RSX-3 satellites (3.5" main, 3/4" tweeter) from an iFi 2.1 system connected to the sub/amp from a ProMedia 2.1 system since the original sub died a while back. I've tested the KG 1.2 on my living room receiver and they work.

Assuming they will sound much better than my current setup, what would be a cheap desktop amp? Input would be 1/8" out from my PC. Here's the spec sheet for the KG 1.2: https://assets.klipsch.com/product-specsheets/KG-.2-series.pdf


I've had them for a few months but haven't done anything because I need to figure out where to actually place the bookshelfs. That's a footrest under the desk, finally getting an Aeron after 3.5 years of WFH:

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Aug 16, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Hippie Hedgehog posted:

I’d use wall mounted speakers above the monitors for that desk since there is no desk space. But those speakers are rear ported so you should definitely not wall mount them…
I mean, I don't have to use them. I wonder if I could use really short speaker stands to place them behind the side monitors, that would provide space for the rear ports.

They really are a bit big for desktop use. Might just have to leave them in storage until I find a better use.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


qirex posted:

SVS is having a sale this weekend, you can get the SB-1000 for $350 and they’re doing outlet discounts.
FUUUCK my life I was in Chicago for an EDM festival last weekend and didn’t see this post. 😭 I might be able to hold out without a sub until Black Friday though.

Relatedly, would a REL Strat III for $175 on FB Marketplace be worth it? Apparently it was a 100W model from 1998-2003 which by today’s standards is a joke but also I ran my HSU STF-2 no higher than 25%.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Sep 9, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


KillHour posted:

Oh poo poo were you at North Coast? I was there too.

They do outlet sales fairly regularly so don't worry about it too much.
I went to ARC. Adam Beyer into Boris Brejcha into Eric Prydz on Friday was too good for me to pass up.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


KillHour posted:

I ran into a group going to ARC during Sunday breakfast and it sounds like it was insanely expensive considering it's a much smaller show. Was it worth it?
Presale for this year was $290 but I bought my ticket in the spring when it was $365 including fees. As far as I'm concerned, it had the best lineup for house and techno outside of Tomorrowland and Ultra this year. Yes, even better than EDC.

Already got my ticket for next year, presale went up to $355. This year had 4 of my top 5 DJs: Eric Prydz, Boris Brejcha, Vintage Culture, and Miss Monique. HI-LO is the other DJ in my top 5 but was playing EZoo, but that festival might be dead after this year. :lol:

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Sep 10, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Josh Lyman posted:

I bought a used Hsu STF-2 subwoofer 3 years ago and it’s been great. It’s hooked up to the sub out on an old Sony 5.1 receiver. I think it died over the weekend while I was out of town.

For a couple months, it’s been making a buzzing sound if it doesn’t get a signal while it’s waiting to auto shut off. When I got back tonight, it was making that buzzing sound. Now, even when switched off (but plugged in), it makes the buzzing sound, and it doesn’t play anything when receiving a signal.

Any recs for troubleshooting? Maybe a blown fuse? If troubleshooting doesn’t work, any recs for an affordable 8 or 12” subwoofer?
I was rearranging my living room a couple days ago and on a lark, I decided to plug the STF-2 in again and it worked! It was so lovely to get bass extension that had been missing from my music for a couple months. I was so happy to avoid spending $400-500...

But then this morning, it was exhibiting the buzzing sound again even though I had turned it off into standby mode.

Now that we're approaching holiday sales, I figure I should finally pull the trigger on a replacement.

Based on thread recommendations when I first posted about this in August, for my medium size living room primarily listening to electronic music and some movies, the RSL Speedwoofer seems to be the best option under $500. However, would this Hsu VTF-2 MK5 be a better choice? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/607844504591223/

Spec wise the Hsu seems to be better, going down to 16Hz with 1 port open compared to 22Hz for the Speedwoofer, but I doubt any of the music I listen to is mixed to go that low, same for movies. Importantly, I would have no warranty. Does RSL ever run sales?

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Oct 12, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Ok Comboomer posted:

You sure it’s not like a grounding issue?
How would I go about investigating that? The sub was working fine with in the same setup since buying it in 2020 before the problems starting happening over the summer.

When I plugged it in again a couple days ago, I did switch sub outputs on my receiver (it's a 25 yo Sony but gets the job done and has 2 sub outs) and changed terminals on the audio cable I was using. I'm using RCA cables, so it goes receiver -> red terminal of RCA cable -> female/female extension couple -> red terminal of another RCA cable -> subwoofer. I had previously been using the black terminals.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

try connecting it with just a single, known good RCA cable closer to the amp to isolate their being some kind of issue like this
I don't think that's the issue. Just now, I had nothing plugged into the sub, and as soon as I plugged in the power cable, it made the buzzing sound.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

Yeah, your amp is busted internally. Time to swap the amp module for smol :10bux: or buy another sub for big :10bux:

E: you can also just buy one of these off Amazon, crack open the sub, and run the wires that go straight to the speaker to this new amp. If you're fancy, you cut a hole and put in some speaker wire screw terminals or if the amp had speaker wire high level inputs, you desolder the wires leading to that and directly wire the internal speaker wire to those clamp/screw wire terminals. I did the soldering option for my brother's sub and it worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Amplifier-Integrated-Fosi-Audio/dp/B07L6FN97Z
Maybe I'm not understanding this correctly. I was under the impression that I would connect the sub out on my receiver to an left (or right) RCA input on the amp, then use speaker wire to connect the amp to my sub's high level inputs.

My Sony DE845:


My Hsu STF-2:


However, if I try connecting, say, the right channel on the B group outputs to the high level inputs on the sub and have the receiver output A+B (front speaker are connected to A), it doesn't do anything if the sub isn't plugged into power, nor does it do anything with the power on.

For more info with respect to troubleshooting, when the sub is connected normally and it's buzzing, I can tell it's try to output signal but it sounds like...a skateboard on gravel.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Oct 13, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

The high-level inputs on a sub are meant to take the amplified signal for your front L+R speakers, pull out the bass information as dialed in by your crossover, and pass on everything above the LPF to the speakers. So it would be front L+R Speaker terminal <-> Speaker Wire <-> Subwoofer high-level input | Subwoofer "Output to Speakers" <-> Speaker wire <-> Front L+R main speakers.

The other way to get a signal to a subwoofer is by using an RCA Subwoofer out(aka LFE output) on the Receiver, and then feeding a rca cable to the sub's sub/LFE input. No other cables. So Receiver's Sub/LFE out RCA jack <-> RCA cable <-> Subwoofer's Sub input RCA jack.



If the amplifier is fried, the high level inputs will likely not bypass to the sub speakers actual speaker wire terminals. Inside the subwoofer, there's actually a +\- pair of speaker wires from the subwoofer itself to it's built-in amplifier. If the amplifier is broken, you either need to replace the sub's amp with the same one from the manufacturer, and in the process reconnect the internal connections to the sub, OR you can hijack the broken amplifier's high level inputs by cutting off the old wires that go to it internally, and soldering the internal speaker wires directly to that terminal. That way you can grab any generic mono subwoofer amp off amazon like the one I linked, run an RCA cable to it from the Receiver, and then run a speaker wire from the external, new amp directly to the modified high level input terminal, which is directly wired to the subwoofer speaker itself inside. Or you can just drill a hole in the back, and run speaker wire through it directly to the subwoofer speaker wire terminals, you'll need some crimp-on spade connectors from the store for that.
Okay, your last paragraph makes a lot of sense. While the 3rd party amp solution MIGHT work, it feels like the safer option would be to just buy a Speedwoofer. I searched on Reddit and it doesn't seem like RSL runs sales.

The Hsu VTF-2 MK5 that I linked from FB marketplace does seem to be a superior sub to the Speedwoofer 10S MKII, but it's also quite a bit larger, and no warranty. It's actually so deep that I'd have to turn it 90* so the driver is facing away from the sofa toward the sliding glass doors to the balcony. Considering that I had my STF-2 volume dial at the 1/6 mark, I definitely don't need more power, though deeper bass extension is always nice.

I guess I'll call RSL in the morning to confirm their backorder date of 10/24 means October 24th and not October 2024.

I'm a little sad because the STF-2 is the 2nd subwoofer I've had die that I really liked. The previous one was the sub on a Klipsch iFi 2.1 system. I don't think I'm doing anything wrong because that system died about 8 years ago in a different city and was only connected to my computer, but that one was also purchased used, like my STF-2, and both units were quite old.

I read somewhere that 10 years is about the expected lifespan of a sub amp. That doesn't seem right to me. I'm especially gun-shy since I know these things happen randomly, but having a warranty on a new Speedwoofer does give me some reassurance.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Oct 13, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

I can say with very high confidence that the 3rd party amp solution *will* work, I've done it before and unless the subwoofer's surround/cone is broken(very visible), there's no reason bypassing the Internal amp wouldn't work. Just a question of if you want to do it quick and dirty(drill a hole) and run a cable or be fancy about it with the soldering, and save the extra $$$ you would have spent on a sub. Like on a new golf club :xd:

However, getting a RSL is a nice upgrade too, so if there's room in the budget that's certainly a good option too. Going forward I also wouldn't use your "B" speakers output&the RCA sub out simultaneously to run your sub, just use the RCA cable sub-out and nothing else. Not sure if it's what caused the issue, but it's certainly not the proper way to hook it up either.
To be clear, I've never used the B outputs except with testing today. I've always used the sub out on my receiver and my setup worked really well for both stereo music and 5.1 movies. :smith:

My concern with drilling a hole is that there'd be a gap around the cable, though I imagine it probably won't make a noticeable difference since my Hsu is ported. I don't have a soldering iron anymore so I'd be looking for the simplest repair, and quick and dirty would be fine.

Would the Speedwoofer be much of an upgrade over my Hsu? Spec-wise they seem pretty similar, as were their MSRPs, though the STF-2 was released 20 years ago. Of course, my Hsu is ported and the Speedwoofer is sealed, so if anything the Speedwoofer might be weaker on bass extension, but the spec sheets have my Hsu at 25Hz and the Speedwoofer at 22Hz. I don't think I've seen any comparison reviews/posts since the STF-2 is old af and the Speedwoofer is relatively new. In any case, I'd expect the Speedwoofer to be a sidegrade at worst and minor upgrade at best. But also new with warranty and physically a bit smaller.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

Again mentioning that you can email Hsu and see how much a new plate amp would cost you. The price would probably be closer to an external subwoofer amp than a new RSL.
I think I read somewhere that Hsu doesn't have any replacements since the STF-2 is such an old model, but I guess it wouldn't hurt. There's no rush since my LCR mains have pretty good bass for bookshelfs so while a sub definitely improves things, music without a sub still sounds really good.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Oct 13, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Ok Comboomer posted:

Bunging an external amp onto a modified/dead subwoofer is a really dumb idea when you can just get a replacement plate amp: either from Hsu directly, or one of various third party brands.

Google tells me somebody got a replacement amp for an STF-2 from Hsu for $180 in 2017. YMMV.

People seem to really like the Dayton Audio ones for Hsu (you might need some extra scrapwood to shim/mount it, but depending on the model/dimensions/etc some appear to be drop-in replacements). As long as it fits in the hole and more-or-less matches the wattage (or maybe ups it a bit within reason) you’ll be fine, there’s not much cutting edge science going on in <$1000 Class D subwoofer amps.

https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers
This 100W amp looks like it would work: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA100-D-100-Watt-Class-D-Subwoofer-Plate-Amplifier-300-805

It only has low level inputs but that’s fine. The STF-2 had a 200W amp but as mentioned earlier, I only ran it at 1/6 volume so 100W should be plenty, especially since it’s $80 and the next level up is a 300W for $150.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Oct 16, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


If I'm going to buy the Parts Express 300W plate amp to replace the dead one in my Hsu STF-2 but the dimensions don't quite match, will that be an issue?

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Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Don Dongington posted:

Not if you own a jigsaw.
Haha I think the Parts Express plate is slightly smaller, so I feel like as long as I can reasonably secure it, it should be fine.

My bigger question was about the fact that air will be allowed to pass through the gap. It’s a ported sub so air is passing through but it wasn’t designed with that airflow in mind.

In terms of electrical wiring, will there just be a red and black lead I can twist together?

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