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Midorka posted:Is it real saffron? That stuff is super expensive in the hundreds per ounce I believe. The Chinese grocery store near me has decent sized bags for the same price as those little plastic cups at the supermarket. You don't need much to get a lot of flavor, but I figure the tea/tincture will give me the most bang for my buck.
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Sep 25, 2012 23:24
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How's this look for my first crack at a Tripel: 12 lbs Pilsner malt 2 lbs Turbinado sugar Mash somewhere around 145-150 to try and get it nice and fermentable. 90 minute boil to chase off the DMS boogeyman 2 oz Tettnang - 60 mins 1 oz Saaz - 10 mins WLP530 - Abbey Ale (start it around 65, then let it warm up to ~75? Never used this yeast before) I'm thinking of adding some saffron after fermentation is done, probably make a tea, dump it in the keg, and put the leftover strands in a teaball or something. Got the idea from Radical Brewing.
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Sep 28, 2012 16:07
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Midorka posted:Thanks. I used a very similar setup for several batches; I still use the burner, but left the pot outside for quite a while and it got a pinhole leak. 7.5 gallons doesn't give you a ton of room for all grain brewing, but as long as you use FermCap and watch for boil overs with a spray bottle, it's a good system on a budget.
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Oct 2, 2012 19:42
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hellfaucet posted:So I might be over thinking this one a bit. Is there some obvious place to fill/refill CO2 tanks? Googling "CO2 buy michigan" ain't doing much for me. I get mine refilled at a fire safety supply store. Find one that refills extinguishers, and you should be good to go.
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Oct 3, 2012 03:40
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fullroundaction posted:
I've got a 1.090 batch with that yeast in a 6.5 gallon bucket. It sent yeasty goo up through the airlock on the second day, and is still bubbling away over a week later.
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Oct 10, 2012 00:17
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There's a spot in the woods behind our apartment building I go to dump my spent grain. I dumped out a batch today for the first time in a few months, and there were a bunch of little barley plants growing there 
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Oct 10, 2012 22:06
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Jo3sh posted:If both posts spray beer when the poppets are depressed, your keg is filled to the point where the gas dip tube is in the beer also. At that point, there's no way to depressurize the keg without getting wet. You might be able to tilt the keg enough to get the gas tube above the beer level.
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Oct 11, 2012 17:13
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Mr. Glass posted:Sup brewing thread, I like the Sweet Mead yeast. Most yeasts will get ciders bone dry unless you stop fermentation or add unfermentables, that one leaves a bit of residual sweetness with straight juice.
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Oct 14, 2012 01:40
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hellfaucet posted:I keg my beer currently and have no plans to deviate from this in the future. However, I want to make maybe 5-6 bottles for competitions from certain batches I make. Is there any kind of short-cut I can take without having to buy all the bottling equipment if I want to do just a few irregular bottled beers? Do Grolsch-style bottles work? I usually just stick a bottle-sized length of tube in my faucet, turn down the pressure, fill, and cap. I skip the hose if I'm feeling lazy. The only equipment you need besides caps and bottles would be a capper. You could also fill the bottles with flat beer right after kegging and use those carb tabs to carbonate & bottle condition. I've never tried them though.
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Nov 13, 2012 19:12
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Nostratic posted:I've been avoiding this thread for a while; I brewed my first batch mid-October, and it's now finishing out 2 weeks in the bottle. I decided I would set it aside and do my best to ignore it until then. I was fine until this past weekend when my best friend texted me, telling me to crack one open and taste it. I'd tasted it when I checked the final gravity, and told him what it tasted like at that point, but he wants a play by play now. Now I can't ignore the beer. It's like somebody took a huge neon side with an arrow pointing to the boxes that screams "BEER HERE!" every time I walk into the den where it sits. Open a bottle! It's a good learning experience to see how it changes over time
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Nov 14, 2012 02:03
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I was super lazy and let my mash tun sit outside without cleaning it for...longer than you ever should. I gave it a nice long PBW soak and scrubbed it good last night, but I'm gonna have a hard time not thinking about what the inside looked like next time I drink something brewed out of it.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:18
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I'm having a bunch of people over for the Superbowl, and I'm just about out of kegged homebrew. If I go out to a liquor store and get a sixtel, what do I need to hook it up to my current ball-lock draft system? Is it just one of these, with the liquid and gas lines hooked up to the barbs? Also, do liquor stores rent them ala the traditional hand-pump tap, or do I have to make the investment?
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Jan 27, 2013 23:13
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I'm gonna brew up a quick Irish red ale this weekend, any tips beyond standard recipes? I was figuring on like 8 lbs of Maris Otter, 0.25 lb roasted barley, maybe a bit of one of those specialty grains that improves head retention and body, plus whatever hops I have in the freezer that fit the style and a packet of Notthingham. Anything else I should consider?
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Feb 10, 2013 22:46
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Fun surprise: opening the valve on your kettle to drain the strike water into your mash tun, and having two cone hops come flying out after apparently hiding inside the ball valve for the past two months. I need to get a screen on this thing.
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Feb 16, 2013 19:00
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When adding geletin to a keg, do you add it before or after you've racked the beer in? Opinions seem mixed.
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Feb 17, 2013 19:05
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vwman18 posted:What's worse for the beer, pitching around 75 degrees or letting the wort sit in the cooler for a few hours until it hits 60-65? Brewing a porter using Wyeast London Ale (1028). As long as your sanitation methods are good, it's better to get it to the right temperature rather than pitching hot. How are you cooling the wort, ambient air?
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Feb 24, 2013 20:27
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Mikey Purp posted:You can't cold crash a beer for too long, can you? My IPA has been sitting in primary at 32* for a week and I meant to keg it this weekend after brewing but never got around to it. Aside from losing another week of freshness before drinking, would it hurt it to sit in the fridge until next weekend? It'll be fine.
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Feb 25, 2013 04:08
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Crunkjuice posted:Where did you guys get all of your bottles? Homebrew store, craigslist, local bars? I completely forgot about that in my planning and now i have 4 days to come up with enough for my batch. Throw a party and have everyone bring a six pack.
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Feb 26, 2013 19:38
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Brooklyn labels also fall right off with a quick soak.
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Feb 28, 2013 03:19
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On the topic of oxidation, due to a mishap involving an unattended autosiphon I'm pretty sure I just exposed my beer to a decent amount of atmosphere while kegging. Is there anything I can do at this point to get some of that oxygen out, or should I just carb up and drink fast?
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Mar 3, 2013 17:53
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Josh Wow posted:Mix up a priming sugar solution, chill it and then add it to your keg. That way the yeast will consume some of that oxygen while carbonating your beer. Can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks!
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Mar 3, 2013 18:57
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Crunkjuice posted:I'm reading the complete joy of homebrewing by papazian and how to brew by palmer and they say different things about rinsing bottles. Palmer says rinse with boiled water,as tap water is a number one reason for spoiled batches. Papazian says rinse with hot water. Which is the way to go? Palmer also says a dishwashing cycle with heat sanitizes bottles. If so, would you need to rinse or would you just pull from the dishwasher and bottle? Sorry for all the dumb first timer questions. I rinse my bottles with hot tap water right after opening and pouring them, then store them upside down so they drip dry. When it comes time to bottle a new batch, I'll sanitize them with either StarSan, or dishwasher heat cycle. Just make sure your dishwasher is nice and clean, and don't use detergent.
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Mar 3, 2013 21:36
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Crunkjuice posted:So our first batch will be ready monday (bottled on march 4th evening). I realize how badly we hosed up being st patties day is sunday. Please tell me i can drink all of it a day early and it will be carbonated. It might not be perfect, but it will be beer and it will have bubbles in it. It's not like it magically goes from completely flat to carbonated overnight.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:46
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I've got about half a pound of leftover Amarillo pellets that have been in my freezer for about a two years (original silver bag in a sealed ziplock, but not vacuum sealed). Any opinions if they're still good? I'm thinking of brewing a Gumballhead-like hoppy wheat.
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Apr 18, 2013 18:23
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Brewed up a hoppy wheat Gumballhead-ish thing yesterday. I was running late to a party so instead of using my chiller I drained the hot wort into a sanitized bucket and left it sealed up on my porch for the night. When I got home the wort was still around 80*, but it was late so I just pitched a pack of US-05 and stuck it in the fermentation fridge set to 65*. I guess we'll see how it goes.
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May 20, 2013 13:57
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The nice thing about wire shelves is that you choose the height. I have one in my garage that works great. Dry hopping in primary is fine as long as you wait until fermentation is complete; otherwise all those delicious hop aromas will just blow out your airlock. Gelatin in primary will work fine too, just be careful about splashing, and give it enough time to work and drop out or else you'll have yeast slime in the bottom of your bottles.
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May 26, 2013 15:15
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How long can I dry hop a refrigerated keg before I have to worry about those dreaded "grassy" flavors?
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Jun 6, 2013 22:00
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illcendiary posted:Looks like I overcarbed my first keg. Getting all foam out of the pours after a few days of nice pours. Should be an easy fix right? Shut off gas to the keg, depressurize, and just patiently let CO2 come out of solution? I had this problem when I first got my keg setup, turns out the beverage tubes Midwest included with the kit were way too short for a reasonable pour and I had to turn serving pressure way down. What length / diameter is your tube?
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Jun 7, 2013 12:10
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quote="illcendiary" post="416266802"] It's 5' of 3/16" tubing. The gas line is 4' of 5/16" tubing. I force carbed for three days or so at 20 psi, purged the gas from the headspace, then set to serve at 10 psi. Is my line too short for that pressure? [/quote] You'll need to tweak it based on your particular setup, but I'm gonna go ahead and say you need a longer liquid line. I went from 5' to I think 8 or 10 and my pours became 100x better.
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Jun 8, 2013 21:14
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Allahu Snackbar posted:
That looks great, my saison was the best beer I made before I got temperature control. The yeast loves these hot summer days. Just as an FYI, secondary isn't really considered necessary anymore, you can leave your beer in primary the full time and it will be just as good or better. Secondary fermenters are a holdover from wine making, which was legal long before home brewing in most places. (It also lets retailers sell you an extra carboy with your starter kit) That said, doing a secondary certainly won't hurt the beer as long as you're careful with sanitation and splashing. The second carboy will also be useful to have around for fruit beers, lagers, fermenting two batches at once, etc
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Jun 9, 2013 13:09
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Sirotan posted:Recipe I found is here: http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2012/03/homebrewing-berliner-weisse-recipe-how-to-brew-sour-beer.html I think I may do this when I'm done moving in a couple weeks. Can you make a lacto starter like you would for yeast to avoid buying two packs?
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Jun 19, 2013 13:33
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Roundboy posted:What are the preferred methods for clearing a beer that won't affect tastes,etc? Gelatin works well for me.
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Jun 23, 2013 23:05
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ScaerCroe posted:I think mine is leaking as well. I poured 4 oz of sugar into my Saison to carb it up, and it wasnt carbed when poured my first pint for the 4th. I noticed some beer leaking out of the post. Do I just buy a new one? Spray it with some StarSan (everyone keeps a spray bottle of StarSan around at all times, right?). If its leaking it'll bubble up and be super easy to find. Has anyone used a saison yeast in a cider? I'm moving and won't be up to brewing for a bit, but I can still pour juice in a bucket and figure I might as well take advantage of this heat wave. Toebone fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 12:27
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Bobsledboy posted:All that yeast sitting around in the primary is going to absorb a lot of the hop oils from your dry hop, the hops will also be less accessible to the beer once they settle into the cake. You'll get more out of the hops you put in if you rack it off the yeast first, but you can also just add extra dry hops and not worry about it. You can put the hops in a bag or mesh ball and suspend from the lid with dental floss so they don't settle out. Or, you can do the same in the keg.
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Jul 22, 2013 13:20
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Kolta posted:Hey guys and gals! I was wondering if I'm off to a good start. I've picked up a Brooklyn Brew Shop kit for 25$. It was 50% off. What's in the kit? Brooklyn Brew Shop does the kits with the 1 gallon glass jug fermenters, right?
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Jul 27, 2013 13:37
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Yet another reason to stick with buckets.
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Aug 20, 2013 17:37
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What's a normal volume for the entry requirement in a homebrew competition? There's one upcoming in my neighborhood, and the entry is 5 gallons. That's an entire batch for me  In good news, a LHBS/craft beer shop is opening up a block from my apartment. Should make those last minute "oh, I forgot to buy yeast" days less annoying.
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Sep 16, 2013 10:31
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EnsignVix posted:Usually the 5 gallon things are keg only competitions or festivals where they intend to serve or have you serve your entire sixtel. I think this is the case - the competition is tied into a music festival, and I assume festival goers are going to be able to taste/vote on all the beers. There are going to be BJCP judges, as well as a "Peoples Choice" category.
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Sep 16, 2013 16:21
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Started my annual cider today. The local market had Apple & Eve natural style juice on sale, so I picked up 5 gallons along with two pounds of panela. I used half a bottle to heat up on the stove top and dissolve the panela, making a pretty intense apple syrup that'll get added to primary. I used the remainder in the bottle as a starter for the Sweet Mead yeast. I'm hoping the panela will add a bit more character and some unfermentable sugars that you don't get with brown sugar or honey.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:19
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fullroundaction posted:3) Since cider is almost exclusively simple sugars the yeast shreds through it (all of it) very quickly and can produce a lot of "hot alcohol" and other flavors that need to age out before it's ready to drink. If you keg there are ways to get around this, but if you're going to bottle them then your only recourse is time I've got a batch of cider in primary that I feel is gonna be kind of rough, I would like to hear more about getting around aging with kegs.
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Oct 11, 2013 01:57
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