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Fhqwhgads posted:Is this where I ask what cable modem to get to tell Time Warner to gently caress off with their $10/mo rental charge? I'm living in NYC and am stuck with Time Warner moving to my new place. Currently, they've got me on an ARRIS router DG1670A and I want to just buy my own. I'm assuming a Motorola Surfboard is the way to go? What's the best one I can buy off Amazon that works with them? I have my computer wired to my router and the TV, PS4, WiiU, and two smartphones on wireless through my own router currently and the modem itself is only wired to the router. I'm guessing the Motorola MB7420 or the Arris SB6190? What speed internet are you paying for? Modem-only Surfboards are the way to go; which particular one depends on your package speed though.
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Nov 29, 2016 03:46
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Fhqwhgads posted:Right now their 100Mbps tier but I want headroom since I plan on upgrading that soon. I'll most likely go with the SB6190 since it's on sale, just wanted a sanity/stupidity check. The 6183's more than enough to support the 300 Mbps tier. The aforementioned 6183 firmware update to re-enable ipv6 has been rolling out along with the removal of the modem page's reboot button (to guard against malicious websites sending requests to reboot your cable modem). astral fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 04:36
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89 posted:I just got Gigabit internet, but I have no idea if my speed is correct. I know not to expect 1000MBps, but I figure 600-800 is realistic. I thought Speedtest.net was the benchmark, but I'm getting different numbers with every speed testing service. For speeds that fast I believe the general recommendation is to use http://speedtest.googlefiber.net/
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Dec 3, 2016 22:06
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CrazyLittle posted:like this? Nice. Two gigabit comcast?
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Dec 4, 2016 04:04
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smax posted:If you guys couldn't tell, I really like Ubiquiti stuff. Don't have one myself but if I was going to get one for that specific purpose I'd probably be looking at: https://www.amazon.com/APC-BGE50ML-Back-UPS-Connect-Network/dp/B013JHYQNC/ This one only has two three-prong outlets, but the battery pack part of it is also a pop-out USB charger. You could also buy an extra pack and keep them both charged or something if you wanted even more battery time. e: simplified post astral fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jan 14, 2017 |
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Jan 14, 2017 21:53
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Katamari Democracy posted:Thanks dude! Im just glad I thought about troubleshooting my old router to see if it was still functioning. AT&T is such a bad company. But at least when it works it works as well as it does here. I had to cancel their DSL nearly a decade ago because of what ended up being some intermittent problem in the line or on their end that they couldn't diagnose or own up to. Switched to cable internet and have had no issues or regrets since. Glad it's working better for you though!
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Jan 25, 2017 07:35
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fletcher posted:Well I had to get something last night so I went to Best Buy and bought whatever gigabit wireless router off the shelf, the Asus RT-AC1900P. The one you bought looks pretty decent; I'd say give it a try for a while and see if it meets your needs, especially if you were fine with an RT-N16. Also consider the Merlin firmware; it sounds like its added features/improvements would be useful for you. astral fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 02:22
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Smeed posted:My condos wifi is super saturated and unfortunately I use my Chromecast a lot so I'm stuck dealing with 2.4ghz. Is there any way I can just get a big as gently caress powerful antenna and make my wifis dick so big that it out waves all the other networks? What about getting a second gen Chromecast? Do you have other 2.4-only hardware you're concerned about?
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Feb 11, 2017 03:27
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BadAstronaut posted:Hmmm when I manually set the IP address it became completely inaccessible. My PC IP address was nothing like the new router or the old one, and I could not access it (despite restarts of both PC and router). Easy fix at this point: Turn off DHCP on the office router and manually set your office router's IP to 192.168.20.2, and set office router's gateway to 192.168.20.1 Plug all office wires incoming and outgoing into LAN ports of the office router
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Apr 14, 2017 04:18
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BadAstronaut posted:Fine to set its IP but i cant see where to set office router gateway. Hmm... What type of router is the office one? Apologies if it's been posted and I missed it.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:24
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BadAstronaut posted:TP Link Archer 1200. I linked it on previous page. Gotcha. quote:EDIT: And now I am online on desktop PC but had to manually configure the IP address to 192.168.20.199 and add in 192.168.20.1 as default gateway and default dns. Can now access both routers from the PC. Concerned though that other devices added via ethernet will have issues like this, but won't be as easy to set up correctly? You can probably kick your PC back to DHCP at this point and it should work just fine. Other devices may just need a reboot.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:30
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Platystemon posted:Here’s an interface emulator for anyone who isn’t BadAstronaut. That one shows gateway/DNS options at DHCP -> DHCP Settings -> Default Gateway e: BadAstronaut posted:Alright! Third try got it. PC now on 192.168.20.4, gateway/DHCP/DNS correctly at 192.168.20.1 - thanks guys! Awesome, sounds good. I'd probably shrink the DHCP pool on your primary (connected to the modem) router a little so it doesn't hand out such low IP addresses (leaving you free to manually assign another router/access point like you did with the office one to another low IP), but as long as everything's working correctly that's not super important or urgent. e2: quote:On that, if you go to basic and look at the network map, I am getting a red X over the Internet icon... but I am clearly online, so... I don't have any TP-LINK routers so can't say if that's normal, but it sounds like it's just bad UI and nothing to worry about. astral fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:36
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Hexyflexy posted:e: I'm on Virgin fibre internet in the UK, they do that loving annoying thing where they'll rewrite a bad DNS query to point to what they *think* you want. So it needs to be eliminated immediately. I had that experience with TWC in the US, but I was able to get a level 3 support agent to disable that "feature". He said it was the first time he'd heard about it (undoubtedly, anyone talking to tier 1 support was told they had some kind of virus/malware), so he had to spend some time researching it before he was finally able to fix it. He also mentioned he'd bring it up at their next meeting so the other level 3 agents would be aware of the issue and how to resolve it. 
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May 18, 2017 01:02
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bobfather posted:If anyone would like I can put together my most recent pfSense hardware build. It came to less than $200 for a unit that pulls 8-10w from the wall and uses a 4-port Intel gigabit nic. by all means
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Jun 27, 2017 01:19
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Omne posted:http://imgur.com/a/bwGZe You'll probably want to buy a nice replacement patch panel if you want to try to reuse those networking cables. I agree with Antillie that a tester might be a good investment. Definitely check out what's going on behind the blank wall plates first, of course. Two years is pretty impressive though. The curiosity would've killed me within a week.
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Jun 27, 2017 04:13
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literally this big posted:Well that's at least promising. The ARRIS SB6190 is listed as a compatible modem, but Spectrum's router compatibility guide only lists three routers, two Neatgears and a Sagemcom. I went ahead an ordered an ARRIS SB6190 and a TP-Link Archer C9, fingers crossed that they work. Cancel/Return the SB6190; the chipset used in it has effectively-unfixable issues. Spectrum should let you lease (for free!) an SB6183 modem, which would be more than adequate. And you don't need to worry about the Archer not being on some 'compatible' list. It'll work just fine. e: I just noticed the SB6190 is still in the OP; with the aforementioned issues the OP probably ought to have a warning about it instead. astral fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 00:34
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Thermopyle posted:Charter is different from other providers. They seem to be pretty good...no enforced usage caps, free modems. On the other hand their max upload package is 5mbps. :/ Depends on the area - former TWC "Maxx" areas had up to 300/20.
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Jul 11, 2017 03:44
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ErikTheRed posted:I'm fed up with random issues I've been having with my Archer C7 and want to figure out some possible alternatives. I had it running dd-wrt for a while which mostly worked fine, but I recently switched back to stock firmware so I could use the hardware NAT. The stock firmware keeps having weird issues: speed degradation, DNS totally stopped working this morning, etc. I don't really want to go back to dd-wrt either since they only have beta builds for the C7 and sometimes it's hard to know which is a good/stable one. Did you wipe the NVRAM aka reset to factory settings after switching to the stock firmware?
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Sep 15, 2017 00:39
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Bulgogi Hoagie posted:do you guys reckon the edge router x will suffice to fulfil the routing needs of 4 apartments, so 4 separate wired access points, on a 200 mbps fibre connection? it says the routing performance is 650 mbps tops in the OP but am not familiar with the term Is this one connection being shared among 4 apartments? If so, what's your strategy when one of the 4 apartments does something illegal on the connection?
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Sep 29, 2017 03:26
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emocrat posted:So, I found out today that I can get 2gig symmetrical service from Comcast. For like 90 a month. So...I'm looking at that. that symmetrical 2gig probably is not using a cable modem
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Oct 4, 2017 22:57
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Zero VGS posted:Oh, another question: re: the shut down part, wikipedia says: "The ability to wake from a hybrid shutdown state (S4) or a fully powered off state (S5) is unsupported in Windows 8 and above [...] WOL from a sleep state (S3) or non-hybrid hibernation state (S4) is supported" I'm a little curious what you mean here though: quote:I went in to my BIOS and added the PC's MAC address as a Wake-On-LAN device e: obligatory 'make sure you have Fast Startup disabled', and it probably isn't a bad idea to test disabling hybrid sleep if you had that enabled too astral fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 23:48
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Atomizer posted:Hi, I've read the OP and the past couple of pages, and have a networking issue that isn't related to DIY hardware. I've been dealing with home networking for many years but have a problem related to ISP equipment that I think is more software-related and I can't figure it out. Are you sure you (or one of your family members) don't have a rogue DHCP server somewhere? That's what I'd be looking for.
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Oct 10, 2017 08:15
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Yeah, but 2012? That's just too old. Dramatika could maybe flash it with Tomato, but the people working on two of the most popular forks of that (shibby and toastman) have been MIA for 5~10 months, so at best that's a short-term band-aid. Archer C5's last firmware date: "Published Date: 2016-02-01" so that's at least a little more current. The similarly-priced Archer C1200 V3 (probably the newer generation?): "Published Date: 2017-02-06" with note "First firmware released." Never used a TP-Link router myself, so I can't say if they're as good as the OP claims. The relative lack of firmware updates is pretty disappointing though, but that might be true across the board on cheap consumer routers. From my own personal experience, ASUS (and especially third-party fork Merlin) were pretty good about updating their firmware, though I myself am moving away from using them as my main router since my RT-AC66U is going to more or less stop getting updates soon. At the very least I'd be looking for something that patched the recent (beginning of this month) dnsmasq issues. e: For a suggestion, maybe go for an Edgerouter-X and put the netgear in AP mode? Optionally flash tomato onto the netgear. astral fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Oct 21, 2017 |
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Oct 21, 2017 20:25
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redeyes posted:Your average Netgear AC router will get 30-50% better bandwidth (file transfers) than those AC Pros because they are made for hotels and that sort. Have at it I guess. Your average Netgear router, like most consumer routers, is pretty quickly abandoned when it comes to security and stability updates. For what it's worth, ASUS leads the consumer router field in the "actually-gets-updates" department. Though I personally don't have a lot of experience with Ubiquiti products, they do seem to do a good job with updates. Nodelphi posted:Yeah but I have an ASUS ac5300 and a rtn66u as a repeater and it’s still not cutting it for the home I’m in now. Hard wiring is probably the way to go, at least to a handful of locations for AP coverage if not for every room for the convenience of having wired access. Identify what other areas you want to be hard-wired (main computer and TV areas are a couple important ones, for example).
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Nov 1, 2017 18:34
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I wanted to try a Unifi AP at home but drat if that isn't the shortest power cable on the PoE injector. Don't have a PoE switch so I'd have to use the injector. The cable is barely 2ft long - not long enough to reach anywhere from any available outlet near where it needs to be. Don't want to run it on the ground or have a permanent extension cord (or damage furniture by drilling holes to mount it to the side of something and have a bunch of unnecessarily-long network cables reaching down there).
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Nov 14, 2017 03:59
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Eletriarnation posted:Yeah, the usual idea with the injectors is that they sit near your outlet/power strip and you have long Ethernet cables as needed to enable AP and uplink placement. Not to mention how silly it would be to have two ethernet cables be ~7-8 ft longer than they need to be just to connect two devices that are more or less right next to each other. A long power cable would be the simple, elegant solution, and it really just boggles my mind that they do not have one available.
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Nov 14, 2017 06:07
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Internet Explorer posted:... Get an extension cord? They make ones that are identical to the power cord but longer. Extension cords are not meant for permanent wiring.
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Nov 14, 2017 06:25
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Eletriarnation posted:I gotta be honest it's super weird to me that you bought a $100 AP, noticed that the freebie injector that came with it has a 2' cable included which won't work for your odd use case, and said "$7 more for a longer cable?! Unacceptable!" before it felt irrelevant to mention the part where the UBNT customer service agent I chatted with when I inquired about getting a longer power cable tried to bullshit me that the length of said power cable was something that absolutely had to be limited because of "the device specs" but there ya go To be fair, though, while my use case may be odd for the enterprise-lite Unifi AP, I don't think my use case is all that odd for the home networking thread, which is where I posted - and where it was and is recommended. 
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Nov 14, 2017 06:38
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Eletriarnation posted:Yeah, I agree that it's bullshit that tier 1 CS says dumb poo poo but it's also not a surprise or really meaningful about things outside that process. Oh, I know; it just helped set the mood. quote:To be honest I still don't get the use case. You have an AP, which is apparently not near an outlet and you don't want it to be. OK. Correct. quote:You also don't want to use long Ethernet cables because in your words the device you're uplinking to and the AP are "right next to each other". OK. That and doing so would still require the injector on the carpeted floor, which as mentioned wouldn't work out. quote:The uplink router/switch, how is it getting power that the AP can't reach to the same source as well - does it have a wall wart with a 10' cord, or what? All the other networking equipment in the area came with ~6ft power cables, which is just long enough for where they sit. That's what set the expectation. quote:If you were plugging into an Ethernet wall jack then it would make sense, but in that case I'd say you're already in deep enough (again assuming "home networking) that it's weird to not rig up a way to put the injector on the other end of the jack or use a PoE switch if you care that much. Yeah it's all together.
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Nov 14, 2017 07:18
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stevewm posted:Unless they have changed it recently, the cord on the UBNT PoE injector uses a common C5 connector, also known as a "mickey mouse" connector. It is often found on laptop chargers and some small appliances. These cords are readily available in many different lengths. 6FT example here: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimted-6-feet-Mickey-Mouse/dp/B000234TYI for $6 USD. I did end up getting that sort of cable - thanks. 
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Nov 14, 2017 20:39
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Zorak of Michigan posted:It never would have occurred to me that having a POE injector on the floor is a power hazard. I have tons of transformers sitting on my carpeted floor, most of them at the end of 1ft extension cables so that I can run them off the same power strip. Am I living super dangerously and never knew it? From a heat perspective, the carpet interferes with their ability to dissipate heat, but unless the transformers are malfunctioning that level of heat alone shouldn't cause a fire, assuming everything is UL rated. Personally I'd be more worried about the carpet fibers finding their way into the ports and causing things to arc or something but that's really going to depend on your carpet. As for the extension cords, as long as they are thick enough they probably won't melt as long as you aren't powering something super high wattage like a hair dryer or space heater or whatever with them. If they're the average thin ones you can find everywhere (which it doesn't sound like since you mentioned 1ft), at the very least you would want to upgrade to something thicker while you try to find a more permanent solution. Make sure you aren't daisy chaining your power strips/extension cords. If some of those connections are loose, there can be sparking/arcing that absolutely can cause a fire. The more things you have plugged into extension cords (especially if daisy chained), the greater the risk, of course. In my own situation, for example, an extension cord would have had to have been more or less completely vertical - the weight of the extension cord would have pulled on the connector, which in time would guarantee a loose connection. Basically just be careful and try to find a more permanent solution when you can. There's a reason the national electric code, uniform fire code, and even OSHA say that extension cords should not be used in place of permanent wiring.
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Nov 14, 2017 23:27
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Hughmoris posted:My folks have ATT Uverse internet and TV. Their internet use is currently browsing/email/youtube. They live in a multi-story townhouse and as expected they get shift Wifi coverage (Uverse modem is in a 2nd floor bedroom) Is their u-verse TV running on coax or ethernet? If it's coax, and as long as nothing's changed since I read about this a while back, you can actually use the ethernet port on the TV boxes for your own networking purposes (with a caveat or two, if I remember correctly) to potentially spare you from having to run some cables.
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Nov 16, 2017 04:11
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Dyscrasia posted:I am thinking of switching to spectrum are the sb6190 issues cleared or still present? Or is there a different one recommended now? 6190 still has issues; 6183 is just fine (and has a handy option on the modem page to turn off most of the LEDs, if you want). The Milkman posted:I've got a Surfboard 6141 and Comcast is telling me I should upgrade because "they're bringing faster speeds to the neighborhood." Checking their compatibility site, they have a few models to choose from. Arris SB8200, NETGEAR CM1000, and the Motorola MB8600. Wirecutter says in this case to just go with whatever's cheapest, which would be the Moto. Any reason to not do that? The SB8200 is from all reports I've seen pretty amazing - 'over-engineered' was tossed around a lot to describe it. It'd likely be the best among those three; if price isn't an object or if it's only a little more to get the 8200 I'd definitely recommend it.
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Nov 18, 2017 04:24
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The Milkman posted:The SB8200 is $189 on Amazon & Newegg, MB8600 is $158. I could be convinced if it's really $31 better? https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31268505- Guy took it apart and commented about what he found.
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Nov 18, 2017 04:53
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Moey posted:That was it! The SB6183 would be fine for now (and has a bonus feature to turn off all but the power LED, if that appeals to you for home use). The SB8200 is apparently pretty well-made; I linked this dslreports post before where a guy took apart an SB8200 and gushed about the quality inside.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:36
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Kin posted:This whole thing came about because it recently dawned on me that i've got my modem/router literally sitting on top of my media box in the living room but it's only hooked up via wifi and has had persistent problems with obtaining/maintaining maximum speed throughout the 2 years i've lazilly had this setup. Despite the short distance, i still only get about 75% of the full network speed. An ethernet cable will 99.99% likely fix your problems; your media box is probably in a weak area of your wifi signal by being directly underneath that router/modem. astral fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Dec 30, 2017 |
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Dec 30, 2017 20:11
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Kin posted:Aha, thanks for the info. I didn't realise there was a deadzone around the modem itself. If wiring them wouldn't be too onerous, you'll get much better performance (lower latency at the very least, good chance of higher speeds) by wiring them. Do you have enough available ports? If not, you may also need an unmanaged switch. The OP has some recommendations; just make sure you get one that's 8 or more ports, gigabit, and preferably with a nice metal housing.
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Dec 30, 2017 20:33
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:After getting upgraded to 100/10 internet from Spectrum and for some reason now have a $5/mo "home wireless" fee added on (I never paid a rental fee for our Arris TG1762 modem/router) which I don't like. I want my own equipment. I've settled on a Netgear CM500 modem, for $50 after a Wirecutter recommendation. The router is becoming somewhat harder to find a good choice for. I was throwing around the thread favorite Archer C7, Netgear Nighthawk R6700, and the ASUS RT-ACRH17. The Archer seems to have bad issues with the radios giving out, the Netgear had some widespread issue from the Wirecutter comments. I'm leaning towards the ASUS unless there is some other recommendation. You should still be able to lease a modem from Spectrum for free, it's just the modem/wifi router hybrids that they charge for. ASUS routers are pretty solid in the consumer space, though I can't say I've heard of that particular one.
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Jan 3, 2018 09:43
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Ah, thanks, yeah I'll look into that. For me it was as easy as walking into a Spectrum store with a copy of my last bill and asking if they had the modem I wanted available to lease (and they did!). Note that from what I understand their stock varies day-to-day, so if there's a particular modem you want and they don't have one that day, you can try again later if you can afford to wait. They'll give you any necessary instructions on how to activate the new modem on your account (usually just a quick phone call; I've never had luck with their self-service modem activation site).
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Jan 6, 2018 23:14
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IndianaZoidberg posted:ASUS RT-N66U. It have four LAN ports. I didn't NEED a switch, I wanted to use one between my modem and router so I could access to my modem to reset it when it shits the bed because my RT-N66U will give me a warning message when I don't have internet telling me that I am not connected, and because of that I can not access my modem. My router won't let me access my modem when it doesn't have a internet signal, the exact time that I want to access it. You should have an option to disable that message; I had one on my ac66u. Maybe with Merlin firmware if not the stock.
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Jan 28, 2018 01:25
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