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Skarsnik posted:You can even power it straight off the usb port of a router That is goddamn brilliant. E: I'm looking to get an rpi to drive my Apple TV via impersonation of a Bluetooth keyboard, my TV via some gross REST protocol, and failing that via IR. I'd like it to be USB powered, and I'm not sure what I need in terms of GPIO to do wifi + Bluetooth + IR emitter. I'm a bit lost in all the variants available. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 14:36
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Paul MaudDib posted:The easy fix is to put some eMMC on there like the clones, but that might make it cost $2 more per unit and they have to keep that sweet marketing going regardless of their product's quality or reliability. Would an eMMC/SD adapter alleviate this? You wouldn't maybe get the full perf, but you'd get the storage lifecycle behaviour.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:04
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Paul MaudDib posted:But again, all of this begs the question of why you aren't just getting one of the clones and getting onboard eMMC, a real SATA channel, USB 3.0, etc. A $60-70 device that comes with an adapter that just works and onboard eMMC offers a very similar total cost of ownership to the RPi and is just going to be a nicer device. Point me to such a clone? Especially if it has wifi and BT.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:14
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Paul MaudDib posted:http://tinyonesystems.com/products/banana-pi-m3-bpi-m3 Awesome, thank you. E: several of those look like they do SD but not eMMC. Or are you suggesting SATA and external power for the drive? Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 16:07
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Baconroll posted:I want to get an Amazon Echo to tell me the value for various temperature sensors running off a Raspberry Pi - but I don't want to poke an incoming hole in my firewall. Take a look at Amazon's SimpleDB, you can likely just stash the values in there and get them from Lambda.
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Oct 17, 2016 20:09
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Jago posted:I couldn't get linux to succesfully do hardware video decoding with it. Now I just use it for torrents, unifi and other lightweight administrative tasks. Using windows 10 of course. Do you have a guide for running unifi on a Pi? All the ones I found are quite elderly.
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Nov 2, 2016 00:49
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doctorfrog posted:I wonder about Retropie: is there a time savings or possibly a life savings for the SD card if I unzip my (completely legally obtained and stored) ROMs? In other words, does anyone know if the files are simply read through the zip file, extracted in RAM, or extracted in a temporary directory? How would I go about finding this out? You could strace the player, but it's almost certainly unzipped into memory. It would be harder and slower to do the unpacking to disk properly.
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Dec 8, 2016 23:39
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eschaton posted:If the emulator will mmap() the files it would be reasonable to keep them unzipped so they only occupy address space, not real private memory. If it doesn't then don't bother. My understanding is that the images get patched in place, but under memory pressure the idles pages of the ROM buffer can get paged out, so it's likely a wash anyway.
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Dec 12, 2016 06:30
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Super Slash posted:Are there any out there who have used either the HiFiberry Digi+ or JustBoom Digi pHATs? None of those nouns are real, are they?
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Dec 23, 2016 21:41
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ItBurns posted:It's not a solution, per se, but it significantly reduces the likelihood of having issues. The whole concept of "computer reliability" is one of probabilities. Adjusting the odds is the best you can do.
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Dec 30, 2016 16:11
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Seems like you should be able to do it with qemu or bochs or similar.
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Jan 11, 2017 15:46
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I'm looking to do some DIY home automation, bridging zwave to my skylight/blind. Per FCC filing, the remote is using 2.4GHz. I can find 2.4GHz modules, but they seem to be designed to talk proprietary protocols to their peers and not send arbitrary data. I can find 433MHz general-purpose transceivers, which will help with the fireplace, but nothing that looks appropriate in 2.4GHz. Does anyone have recommendations for 2.4GHz transceivers (or transmitter/receiver pairs) that can send arbitrary data? I'd love one that was a GPIO-riding add-on board, or a HAT, but I'll figure out how to wire a separate module inside the case.
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Jan 16, 2017 20:38
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SniperWoreConverse posted:The chips I've seen (not really that many to be honest) all look like they do one or a few different specific protocols. I'd look at it from the other direction and try to see what chip and protocol they use, then find chips that can work with that, then try to find if there's an add-on with one of those chips. I know NXP has chips that can do like 6 different protocols but there's no guarantee that it can do the one you need and I have literally no idea if they're any good. Do you know if that's usually in FCC filings? I could go dig there.
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Jan 16, 2017 22:12
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Yeah, I'm happy to have two modules, I just can't find any for 2.4GHz like the general purpose ones for 433MHz. HackRF is definitely more than I really want to pay right now, and the cheaper variants like RTL-SDR don't go high enough. The Z-wave stuff I have sorted out, just getting an Aeon USB adapter for now. I might move to Arduino once I have it working, but it'll be easier to bring up on the RPi. Weirdly, the remote doesn't show up in the FCC search, though the skylight motor seems to, and all that company's products are in the same band.
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Jan 17, 2017 05:09
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I have a naive electromechanical question, if you'll indulge me. I'm building a Pi that can control something in my house, via 433MHz remote control impersonation. The transmitter is a little circuit board about 2 inches on each side, with 3 pins. I'd like to figure out how to enclose the whole thing within a case, rather than have a breadboard dangling off of it. Are there shields that will help me here, or do I need to wire it up with tiny wires and leave it loose within the case? The GPIO pins that I need to connect to (one data, VCC, GND) aren't adjacent on GPIO, so I guess it might not be possible, but I'd really like something tidy if I can manage it.
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Jan 20, 2017 09:57
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ante posted:Look up Pi Cobbler on AliExpress/eBay. It's a breakout with a ribbon cable for a couple bucks, keeps stuff clean. Perfect, thank you! I can probably do this with an Arduino in the future, if I get a Z-Wave shield/whatever for it, but I figure it'll be easier to get going with a Pi. E: do you know of a case that could contain the cobbler and a Pi, with a couple of inches of headroom on the cobbler breadboard for components? EE: https://www.buyapi.ca/product/modmypi-modular-rpi-b-case-black/ looks like it can do what I want! Now to find or make shorter gpio cables. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 20, 2017 |
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Jan 20, 2017 16:50
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apropos man posted:I once had an HDMI cable spark a little bit when pushing it in. The sparking came from the "D shaped" surround on the connector and it was a really old lovely TV that belonged to an ex girlfriend. It's possible that the equipment you're plugging in could be causing a short or a sort of semi-short. This mainly applies if you're using a really old lovely TV or an old HDMI cable, though. It's a bit of a long shot. What's a semi-short? I'm new to this stuff.
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Jan 27, 2017 15:38
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apropos man posted:Hah! What I meant by inventing a new type of electrical fault was that due to the poor quality of the cable and/or the TV, then the sparking wasn't present every time, just sometimes. Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!
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Jan 28, 2017 15:12
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wolrah posted:You can also do "variable=value; command" as a one-liner No, you have to leave the semicolon out.
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Feb 5, 2017 23:35
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doctorfrog posted:I have a 400+MB "core" file on my Pi. Is it a core dump and can I delete it? Type file core and it will tell you. But almost certainly yes and yes.
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Mar 4, 2017 06:20
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xtal posted:Three of my eight raspberry pis are idle right now, anyone got any cool ideas before I fill my apartment with cameras? Get a Z-wave stick or shield and start the journey into home automation. 
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Mar 4, 2017 20:50
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xtal posted:I feel like all the cool home automation stuff requires permanent modifications to the place which I can't do since I rent Light switch replacement is reversible, but there are also plugs and bulbs to work with. If you have a dumb fireplace or similar remote, you can also learn to impersonate that.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:59
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Do you think the burglars will operate in the dark, or turn lights on?
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Mar 15, 2017 14:47
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How is the Zero W using less power on 1080p playback than the Zero?
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Mar 16, 2017 19:20
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Android on x86 is well-supported these days at least as a development environment. Intel clings to it.
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Apr 27, 2017 00:38
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Drivers, I assume.
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Apr 27, 2017 22:48
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Chromebook?
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Jul 18, 2017 04:11
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What does echo $SHELL say?
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Aug 3, 2017 21:02
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Hmm, OK. How about echo $TERM, if you're still seeing the arrow-key behaviour?
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Aug 3, 2017 21:09
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Oh, sorry -- I misread.
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Aug 3, 2017 21:40
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It's a living.
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Oct 3, 2017 13:13
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On the Pi, is there a way to control whether a USB port is powered or not? I'd like to use one to turn on/off a device that is just powered by USB. Maybe an Arduino would be better, but I think it'll be easier to do the zwave stuff from a Pi. E: I can find ways to turn off the bus power for all of the USB, but that would take out the network and zwave dongle, so that's not great. Maybe I need to get a second USB hub on there. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Oct 12, 2017 |
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Oct 12, 2017 15:13
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Space Gopher posted:Why not just switch 5V power with a relay? The device in question is set up for USB, and I was hoping to avoid snipping wires. Perhaps I misunderstand what you’re suggesting!
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Oct 12, 2017 18:18
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Malcolm XML posted:Show us the circuit It’s an LED strip that is powered off a USB port. I want to turn the +5V line off when I give a zwave command. I’m not sure what there is to draw, sorry. 
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Oct 12, 2017 20:52
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John Big Booty posted:I've used this for one client. That’s interesting! I’ll look into that, thank you.
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Oct 13, 2017 12:23
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Double post, but: Is there a way to get a second USB bus onto a Pi of any flavour? I'm not sure if there's enough bandwidth through GPIO to drive that, though I only need low speed. Googling only gets me information about adding ports to the existing controller, though I might be missing a keyword.
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Oct 13, 2017 14:22
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wolrah posted:It should be possible to run one of these https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/interface/controllers-expanders/MAX3421E.html on the SPI bus. There does appear to be support for that chip in the Linux kernel. Interesting, I’ll see if I can find something with one of those on board.
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Oct 13, 2017 16:19
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Malcolm XML posted:Is the USB port connected to mains or something else? If it's mains, just use a zwave switched plug thing. If it's a port, you will need to be able to shut off the port power which can be done by making an "interposer" type board with a bistable latching relay on the power pins of USB. You will need some way of getting zwave to toggle the relay states I’m a VC now, I’m not even allowed to read code. I may be able to make it work with a switched plug. I was hoping to have it automatically go on and off related to the TV and room lighting states. I may be able to program that into my zwave hub thing, I’ll have to look. Otherwise I’ll look into the relay option with a USB zwave dongle. Thank you!
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Oct 15, 2017 22:27
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Oh yeah, I’ve heard about HA. I bought this Pi originally to control my electric fireplace via zwave, and I have 433MHz rx/tx widgets for that. I can probably do that part with Arduino though, if I get WiFi on it. This has given me a lot to think about!
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Oct 15, 2017 23:30
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Do you mean MHL? I thought the HDMI pin 18 power went from source to sink, and only 50mA at that.
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Oct 30, 2017 00:54
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