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Time to start waking up at 6am. The howling/barking is self-reinforcing so the more he does it now, the more likely he is to do it later. Ignoring it isn't enough to stop it. Think of him as a little life coach and in a few months when he's older, he'll start sleeping in more and so can you. One thing to keep in mind is that he's probably waking up earlier and waiting for a bit before the howling starts. If you can get to him then and reinforce that, it should be worth it later on.
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Apr 27, 2012 00:15
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Kiri koli posted:I disagree. Barking is self-reinforcing when it is due to boredom... I think her puppy is bored after being in the crate ~8 hours. Right now it's whining from 6am to 7am, they wake up and let it out. If it's willing to do the behaviour for an hour before getting the result, I conclude they enjoy doing it. When they do wake up, they'll have to let the dog out so they can go to work so it's going to get reinforced eventually anyways. Kiri koli posted:There is no guarantee that he will start sleeping later when he gets older* (a friend of mine's dogs get him up at 5am every day and they are old) so don't start a habit of letting him push you around. I didn't guarantee it. The large majority of dogs sleep more as they get older. Also, the dog isn't pushing them around, dictating their schedule or any kind of anthropomorphic bullying analogy. It just wants to hang out and do something more fun than being in a crate. 6 am isn't that early, just wake up a bit earlier and spend every minute with an awesome puppy that you can, they grow up too quick. Postess with the Mostest fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 02:21
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Kiri koli posted:If they reinforce the whining by letting the dog out, then what happens when the dog decides that it wants to get up at 5am? I suggested they wake up slightly before the whining begins so there is no whining to reinforce. The dog may decide to start whining earlier but it could decide to do that whether they let it out at 6 or 7? I think it would be more likely to whine more if it practices for an hour every day. Either way, I don't think there is a quick solution to the problem. My theory is that the dog will sleep later as it gets older so it's a short term management step. Take away the whining practice while the desire to wake up so early fades gradually. The darker room idea mentioned could also help.
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Apr 27, 2012 03:11
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^^ Yes, run away is your best bet. A good dog breeder wouldn't be giving dogs away at 6 weeks EDIT: or breeding labradoodles. quote:So when should you go knock on the breeder's door to pick up your puppy? First, the answer depends on the breeder and on how he/she treats the bitch and the pups. If it's the puppy factory alluded to earlier, where pups got little or no human contact from birth until you arrived to pick out your pup, seven weeks is already too late. If you must deal with such a breeder, and I can think of no reason why you would, six weeks is the oldest if you hope to save the pup. With the rapid onset of the fear response at seven weeks, every day after six weeks old increases the probability of the pup suffering because there is a lack of human contact. The dog, depending on inherited temperament and breed, will be impossible or at best extremely difficult to train, may be a fear-biter, surely will be people-shy, and will act like a wild canid generally if left in the litter with no human contact for its first 12 weeks. That's from an article printed in 1994 in Gun Dog to counter the entrenched belief that you should always take a puppy home on the 49th day, here's the whole thing: http://www.shorthairs.net/AboutGSPs/Whentogetyourpuppy/tabid/230/Default.aspx.
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May 13, 2012 16:15
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It's okay to hang out with dogs that you know are up to date on vaccines and stay away from places that could have poop from other dogs. It's especially important to socialize him with all kinds of different people, especially kids, in that first month and you can do that right away. Usually the paperwork from their first vet visit will have the dates for the follow-up shots. Our puppy could make it through the night in his crate from midnight to about 6am no problem. Our dog sleeps in the bed too but we're really glad we crate trained him. He was crated every night until he was about 6 months and during the day when we weren't home. It makes it way easier when we need someone to look after him for the weekend and when we took him to new places. I think having him sleep in bed with you right from the start could be a disaster and you would probably wake up in a puddle more than once. We tried to follow Ian Dunbar's puppy advice (minus the indoor turf, I work from home and it was very easy to bring him outside regularly). The socializing/bite inhibition stuff was especially useful. Starting at 8 weeks, I would bring him to a coffee shop, sit outside and let strangers give him food. They're so moldable at that age, it was great watching him like people more and more everyday and now we have a dog that loves everybody. Start here and go through the training textbook section, it's a pretty good read. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/your-education-about-puppy-education-0
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Jul 10, 2012 04:40
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Sounds sketchy. A reputable breeder wouldn't be misplacing the papers. The parents appearing healthy means nothing at all, a good breeder would have them tested for genetically inheritable diseases. Most of those diseases won't be visible for a few years, a vet checking the puppies would never catch them. Purebred or not would be the least of your worries.
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Jul 19, 2012 13:46
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bees: You sound ridiculously over-prepared, he'll probably just sleep most of the way. A collar and leash so he can get out for a pee? unicorn: These guys all have it spot on. Just an observation, if you want the convenience of saving a few hours drive to pick up your dog and the convenience of not being on a wait list, you may have underestimated the inconvenience a husky can be. They're stubborn, difficult to train and love to take themselves for walks when you're not looking. They're smart enough to escape the yard, to be vindictive if they feel slighted and will thieve food whenever you aren't watching. On top of that, they'll need a lot of exercise and shed constantly.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:55
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guarded by bees posted:Breakthrough! We were having some inappropriate peeing issues for a few days, and yesterday he started asking to be let out by running up to the back door and making a noise (usually a quick yip). When I took him out, he'd run to his potty spot, have a pee, then come back up to go inside. I am so proud of him! Wow, sounds like you're doing really well with him. Make sure you take tons of video, you'll be glad you did in a year!
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Jul 31, 2012 02:54
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guarded by bees posted:The biggest issue we're having lately is inappropriate chewing and he's been a little barkey when he's frustrated or assertive. I am trying to curb this with distraction, but I'm worried that I'm encouraging or further frustrating him. 4/5 is awesome, mine didn't indicate at all until he was about 6 months but I work from home so I just took him outside at least once an hour. Try him on an antler, mine loves them and they last forever.
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Aug 1, 2012 18:03
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I love Ian Dunbar but I skipped the indoor toilet and just kept an eye and took him outside once an hour during the day. A week isn't usually long enough to train it but you should be ok if somebody lets him out and he isn't trained to pee in his crate when you get him. Just be careful that you give him as much time between food/water and going back in the crate as you can. The playpen thing is for the dog's safety and your sanity. I just used baby gates to confine mine to a safe area where I could keep an eye on him and he was able to jump over those by 10 weeks. I'd say the playpen is probably not going to work that long on a medium size or larger dog.
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Aug 7, 2012 15:39
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Thwomp posted:Can you elaborate a bit on this? I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Water/food goes through puppies like a laser beam so make sure you can bring them outside after giving it to them. Don't feed them right before you have to leave. The more time you give them to eliminate between when you feed them and when you put them in the crate for a few hours, the less likely you will find a mess when you get back. Veskit posted:You'd be way better off with a lab. This is great advice, labs are so chill. My lab last night: 
Postess with the Mostest fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Aug 7, 2012 |
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Aug 7, 2012 16:48
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Thwomp posted:Okay so in the mornings, a good routine would be something like this? 1. Wake up 2. Take dog outside 5-10 minutes. He might try to trick you that he doesn't have to poop. He probably does. If he doesn't, throw a ball or something to get him running to loosen him up. Throw a party when he does. 3. Feed food/water. I wouldn't be feeding them from Kong at this stage. They're such sponges, I would be giving all food as training rewards. You can start clicker training sit/down/loose leash/crate games right away. 4. Take outside to eliminate again and play. 5. While you do your morning stuff, give your wife a turn to play with the puppy or put him in the crate. 6. Go play outside, give him a chance to get another small, very tasty treat for going outside. We used dry liver squares. He got those only when he peed/pooped outside and it seemed to work. 7. Dog in crate and leave for work I'm not sure about the chew toys in the crate, maybe a nylabone or something very tough? Fresh deer antlers worked for us but the pet store ones are too old/porous and they can chew off sharp pieces. If he has a bed in there, he'll probably chew that though. Puppies are assholes but it's a lot easier if you don't give them the chance to be one.
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Aug 7, 2012 17:54
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Beef posted:An option we are also considering is to wait a year until my partner has a job and things have settled down. I would do this. A lot of shelters will let volunteers walk dogs so you could take some different ones out for a test and get more familiar with the breeds while you're waiting. I like puppies but you might be able to find one from a shelter? Puppies in apartments are tricky though because you have to run it through a gauntlet to get it outside many times per day.
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Aug 10, 2012 14:04
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I think your puppy is 3-4 months old? I'd guess he's sick.
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Aug 10, 2012 15:42
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uptown posted:He's about 3 months. Bah, I hope he's not sick. Vet sick, do you think? How is his energy besides walks? The other option is that you poisoned walks for a 3 month old puppy, that's pretty tough to do. Did anything negative happen besides the storm on a walk?
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Aug 10, 2012 16:27
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Yes. There was a study on this, I'll try to find it. Edit: Sorry, I misread as letting the barking dog out. I don't think the barking dog would figure out that the other dog is being let out because it's not barking. Postess with the Mostest fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Oct 31, 2012 |
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Oct 31, 2012 14:53
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It was a study where they had two groups of puppies in two weird cages. They'd put some food on a small wagon and time how long it took them to figure out that they could pull it in by the handle. The second group was allowed to watch. They found that the second group usually figured it out faster. It might have been in "Don't Shoot the Dog", I'm going to try to track it down. I don't think this would apply so much to Cuatal as he's looking for the dog to learn that the absence of a particular behaviour for a certain amount of time makes something good happen instead of something more concrete.
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Oct 31, 2012 15:07
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Serella posted:People are going to disagree with this, but if I was you, I would just try and get him to rehome the dog with people who can handle an energetic puppy. A tip? Exercise it a lot more. Is the dog crate trained? Or are you just letting a 5 month old dog hang out in the backyard all day? Give us some more details on what the daily routine is.
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Nov 21, 2012 00:06
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I think you could do a lot worse than these guys. However, as we are nitpicking and MrFurious covered the general stuff, I'll look at the hunting: - They "specialize" in 3 different breeds and have only been running since 2008 - They mentioned on a separate website that they breed for a "combination of conformation, performance and socialization". Most hunters I know laugh at conformation garbage. - Their testimonials don't say anything about trials or hunting or older dogs however they do say a lot about how their new puppies are great with kids? - They don't say anything at all about introduction to live birds or a single word about training - I also disagree with the dewclaw removal but I think the breed standard calls for it? - They seem to mostly breed their own dogs and it seems like they put out a lot of puppies a year I would conclude that these guys are into breeding their own dogs to create family friendly dogs who like to hunt and are probably birdy. There's nothing wrong with that and that's very similar to what I was looking for when I got my lab. The field trial dogs tend to be extremely high drive/high energy. On the other hand, the facilities do look pretty nice and I love seeing puppies getting used to young kids. 
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Nov 27, 2012 01:59
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Langolas posted:I take him out 2-3 times a day for 30+ min each plus we do training and play in house. That's pretty well the bare minimum for a young lab. I would guess it's a combination of boredom and excess energy. We found that antlers were the best chew but don't use old ones, they splinter a lot faster. We wouldn't put the whole thing into the crate, just kind of push half of it through the wires so he couldn't really crunch into it. Peanut butter in kongs that are jammed in the bars, particularly the roof will keep him busy for a while. We never found any toys in the store that he couldn't destroy. Try to figure out a way to get him more tuckered out before bed.
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Dec 5, 2012 01:14
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MrFurious posted:Placebo effect. There is little to no evidence that dogs can learn via example, so it's very unlikely this was happening. I always peed outside with my lab when he was learning, can't hurt.
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Dec 30, 2012 01:47
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genderstomper58 posted:I guess the biggest red flag was that both of them were willing to sell the dogs @ 6 weeks even when I said 8 was perfectly fine. That should be a deal breaker with any breeder.
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Jan 9, 2013 20:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:There is one thing that sounds odd to me, but since I'm completely new to this entire experience, I thought I would ask you guys. The breeder said that she doesn't allow anyone to touch the puppies until you're ready to pick them up at ~8 weeks because she doesn't want them getting sick, mishandled, etc. That does sound weird, maybe she just had a bad experience with people wanting to alpha roll the puppies to see how they react. I am embarrassed to admit that I did a Volhard test, minus the umbrella, when my puppy was about 6 weeks at the breeders. http://www.volhard.com/pages/pat.php
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Jan 16, 2013 23:50
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Mostly dog nerd embarrassed, not trying to start any arguments.
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Jan 17, 2013 00:03
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Almost Smart posted:Can someone give me some advice on how to discipline a puppy that takes offense at the word "no?" We have a 13 week-old golden retriever. She's incredibly bright and well-behaved overall, but she loves biting and chewing things she shouldn't, people included. We've tried making yelp like sounds when she does it to let her know she's going too far, but she interprets this as a sign to go in for the kill. We've also tried simply walking away, but she just gets flustered and engages in something more destructive instead. There's no point saying "no" or "no bite" at this point. You're just associating that command with whatever action the puppy is doing when you say it. I would maybe try tethering the dog when you play with it. That way you can say "OUCH!", stand up and get just out of reach for a few moments and then give the puppy another try. It sounds like you've already checked this out but if you haven't, Ian Dunbar has lots of good stuff on bite inhibition. http://www.dogstardaily.com/taxonomy/term/160 If he's too full of energy to pay attention to you when you stand up and ignore him, then get him some exercise first. Also, puppies are assholes.
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Jan 30, 2013 14:10
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LeeMajors posted:New puppy! It would probably be best to have somebody come by to let it out of the crate at lunch, 8 hours is a long time but lots of people do it. I'd be way more worried about the health. It is beyond devastating to bond and train a dog for a few years and then have it develop genetic health problems. It can also be extremely expensive. Paying the extra few hundred is 100% worth it in the long run. I don't know much about poodles but I doubt there's a specific dock jumping lineage. I would stay away from show pedigrees just out of principle. The parents temperament and your efforts at socializing will be much more important than any puppy personality testing but I would still do the Volhardt minus the umbrella because it's fun and kind of neat. I would focus on red flags with the breeder instead of with individual puppies in a litter. The OP covered this in great detail here, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3471773#post401439706 efb; goddamn you dog nerds are fast.
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Feb 13, 2013 19:04
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LeeMajors posted:I don't think they are breeders. Temperament is kind of a health issue. Most likely, they'll tell you both parents are friendly, healthy dogs. You should still walk away now and save yourself the time (and prevent yourself from getting attached to a cute puppy). What you're describing is a backyard breeder or someone who had an accidental litter. They can't provide you the health guarantee you should want.
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Feb 13, 2013 19:58
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A lot of hunting dog breeders sell 'started' dogs. Usually means they're trained around guns and birds starting very young. I would only go that route if you find a rare positive trainer like Robert Milner or are really serious about hunting.
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Feb 18, 2013 15:16
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nesbit37 posted:She will run and hide if we turn on the radio before she is in the bathroom, she won't eat her breakfast now if we give it to her in the bathroom and she has started to cry again when we leave. She is starting to do this anytime we put her in the bathroom because we need to go somewhere and leave her alone. You're asking why your dog has developed a negative association with being alone in a bathroom for 11 hours a day? That seems pretty boring. Did you guys lock her in there for punishment at all? Maybe the day you left her from lunch to 8 was painful for her to hold it in that long? Willsun posted:Besides the advice given in the OP, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for that they should have learned from their mother? I'm just going to assume this is a BYB because a good breeder wouldn't give up the puppy that early and would have no problem with you picking it up without your friend. 7 weeks isn't the end of the world though, it probably won't be as well socialized with other dogs but you can adjust for that. More concerning is that you're getting a BYB primitive breed under less than ideal circumstances, check out the entire thread dedicated completely to these rear end in a top hat dogs and ask yourself why you would intentionally make a difficult task even harder?
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Feb 25, 2013 14:45
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MrFurious posted:Puppies need lots of water, which is why it's typically recommended to give them free access. The risks of the dog's health due to dehydration outweigh the potential damage to your carpet. You can restrict water, but I would be diligent to make sure the dog has plenty of opportunities to get enough water - at least once every two hours, every hour is probably better. If you are having trouble with accidents or potty breaks overnight, stopping water an hour or so before bedtime can put a stop to that as well. This is exactly why I liked restricting water but giving it to him every hour. You know they're going to have to pee 5 minutes after drinking so you get a chance every single hour to reward the puppy for peeing outside.
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Apr 11, 2013 16:58
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LeeMajors posted:My little Margie will be 13wks on Monday, and seems to have developed a bit of separation anxiety. She has more energy now, how much exercise is she getting and how long is she out of her crate vs in it? I hope you're not giving her the treats after she starts whining and barking to quiet her down but if you are, stop that. Right now is the key time to socialize her with other dogs so she should be getting worn out playing on a daily basis. She's probably just following you around because she's bored and you guys are interesting to her. How often are you training her and for how long? Without more details, I'd say more physical exercise and more mental stimulation. Start training her to find and bring you specific toys (we did little deer antlers) and would constantly hide them around the house. My dog was a stupid lab though so any activity where he had to use his brain exhausted him pretty quickly.
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Apr 14, 2013 17:48
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LeeMajors posted:I rarely place her in the crate, I mostly lure her in with a treat, have her sit, and treat again. Then give her a kong or toys if I'm going to be gone for awhile. Definitely exercise her but stimulate her brain too. My advice would be to start clicker training her. Power of positive dog training has a really good progression of tricks, how to teach them but also covers a lot of psychological things. It's hard for us to figure it out from here but maybe if you read all about how behaviours are learned, you'll see if somehow you're accidentally training your puppy to bark and whine when she's crated.
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Apr 15, 2013 03:48
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MrFurious posted:We actually feed out of a treat ball twice a day every day, for what it's worth. We do the exact same, he seems to prefer it.
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May 3, 2013 15:03
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You're overthinking it. Just stuff his face with treats and do fun things with him so he creates a positive association with you. Don't worry about him knowing he belongs to you, just make him think you're awesome. Awesome owners take their labs on playdates with other dogs.
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May 10, 2013 04:14
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Black Dynamite posted:Is there a trick to making sure your dog is socialized with other pups before he/she has had all of the recommended vaccines? Let it play indoors and in private yards with dogs that you know are vaccinated. You're mainly worried about parvo which can live in dog poop for up to a year so keep the puppy away from public parks, etc.
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May 28, 2013 18:23
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I would read up on the laser pointers first, a lot of people think they make dogs go a little crazy because they can never catch something physical. My little cousin was babysitting a dog and used the laser pointer quite a bit. After a week, it was constantly twitching its head, trying to find the dot for hours. All the exercises MrFurious listed are the way to go. We used to do lots of nosework inside. We'd just hide small antlers around the house, the puppy would run around every room trying to find it and usually got a treat when he brought it back to us.
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Jun 27, 2013 02:31
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The bad news is that you should have been reinforcing with the tastiest treats right from the beginning to prevent your puppy from getting in the habit of peeing inside. The good news is that MrFurious typed up an amazing housetraining guide and if you read and follow it, you may eventually find yourself with a dog who prefers peeing outdoors. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u53Bw5jWag--ZqjooOa14Fv7XzNyVZ9IpqLGbxQWnxc/edit
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Jul 4, 2013 17:52
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Nyarai posted:Thanks to my fiance's absentmindedness, Jordan has eaten half a loaf of whole wheat bread. Is there anything in particular I need to do for her, aside from await the coming gastrointestinal horror in stoic silence? At yeast she didn't eat the whole thing. I'd think it depends on the dog really. Our 65 lb lab ate 8 whole wheat hamburger buns the other day with no side effects. The worst he ever ate was 10 huge Costco muffins and a pound of butter one evening. Luckily, he threw most of it up that night and his poops were back to normal within 24 hours.
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Jul 15, 2013 20:13
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TShields posted:Is there like a service that comes in and does this or something? Literally every person I know works during the week. It's really common, most big cities have a company like this: http://www.kingstonpetsitting.com/services.php
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Jul 15, 2013 23:02
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TShields posted:Granted, but not every solution works for every household, and you can't get pissy when I decide an option won't work for me. I don't leash him when I take him out, and I really don't plan to start. We have a fenced in back yard specifically for the dogs. He knows enough to walk down the stairs, pee, and come back- or run around and play if he's in the mood. If I open the crate and put a leash on him, I'll go from having a screaming puppy jumping around when I get home to having a screaming puppy jumping around with a leash on him. Are you keeping sure to assert calm dominance? Have you tried a ThunderShirt? Maybe a shock collar with some gentle corrections would help teach your puppy to calm down. Or let him out of his crate and immediately alpha roll him until he realizes you are The Boss and relaxes into his role in your Wolf Pack. I'm not sure what advice you're looking for but a life less is a lot more experienced than most of us at positive training and it's worth your time to figure out a way to try what she suggests. I'm not sure that the puppy is excited to see you. He's probably just really excited to go outside and take the leak he's been trying to hold for 9 hours (or to finally get out of his own filth). It seems borderline cruel to ask him to hold it a second longer than he has to. Maybe if you get somebody to let him out for a potty break halfway through the day he wouldn't be so crazy.
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Jul 23, 2013 21:29
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