|
I'm really skeptical about the addition of the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test in the OP. There's no actual science behind it and it uses all manner of outdated concepts ("elevation dominance" = does puppy struggle when lifted off the ground, lol) to gauge which puppies are supposedly right for which families. The testers don't even use the same methods as one another, and they assume a whole ton about things like "obedience," which they gauge by seeing if a puppy has a natural retrieve drive. It's largely a waste of time and makes way too many assumptions about the individual puppies on one single occasion. Earlier someone had a question about separation anxiety and how to help combat it. I typed up a lengthy post on the subject of sep anx and treating it here. It's kind of spergy because it came directly out of my SSCS course notes, but it might be helpful.
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2012 00:12
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 10:34 |
|
|
CaptBubba posted:Thank you. Hopefully by incorporating some of those ideas I can keep it from ever happening in the first place. Placing a bird feeder in view of the crate (with a shade covering it when not crate time) and keeping comings and goings low key both seem like they will be fairly simple to do. The most important one, in my opinion, is not allowing your dog to shadow you about the house when you are home. Encouraging lots of healthy independent behavior can go a long way toward preventing sep anx, and teaching things like distance stays where you can incorporate your disappearance from view is helpful from an obedience standpoint as well!
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2012 17:27
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:It's almost as if we were familiar with all of these concepts when we wrote the document. If you'll go back and read again, you'll note that we put in heavy disclaimers regarding the long term accuracy and suggested that it is only applicable to young puppy-hood at best. In addition we've armed readers with more information on what's out there and what's being used, as well as how best to interpret that information for their own best interests. I disagree that it is applicable to anything other than "I opened an umbrella and the dog startled so I will arbitrarily give it a score of 2" or "I lifted the puppy off the ground for 30 seconds and it wiggled so I will rank it as somewhat dominant." I don't believe it has any merit in gauging temperament in any age of dog considering that there is zero scientific method being used. Is there any harm in it? Not necessarily. Do I omghate it? That would be a little over-dramatic way to put it. Yeah, it's considered the Standard for Measuring Temperament, but so is the whole dominant-submissive spectrum, and I wouldn't recommend readers to go in search of people using that, either. "It's almost as if people can have a dissenting opinion without resorting to condescending statements or hyperbolic summations of what the other person is saying." I guess what I'm saying is if you don't want additional discussion over the content provided in the OP, please add that to the thread rules and consider my earlier post a badpost.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2012 00:05
|
|
|
I'd like to throw out a piece of information. I've noticed a lot of people suggesting that a middle-of-the-night potty break is absolutely imperative, and that's not entirely true. While it can be helpful, it's not really 100% necessary. Dogs and humans both secrete antidiuretic hormone or vasopressin, which helps retain water in the body. More of this hormone is secreted at night, which is why we are capable of "holding it" while we sleep (unless we have an imbalance, which causes nocturia). This is also true of dogs. ADH secretion increases during a normal sleep cycle, so unless you suspect your puppy of potentially developing diabetes, or you plan on letting him sleep for more than 6 or 7 hours consecutively, you shouldn't need a midnight tinkle.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2012 19:33
|
|
|
Bogwoppit posted:The only breed he doesn't afraid of is Shelties, but I really don't think one would like to live with me. Just FYI, there's not a whole ton of difference in terms of energy and drive between a corgi and a sheltie. I've had both, and from what I can remember of the sheltie, that breed might actually even be slightly more laid-back than the corgis are, especially if the corgi is BYB or milled and temperament isn't being taken into consideration at all by the breeder. Not wanting to rain on your parade at all, but I wouldn't rule out a sheltie necessarily yet. As far as the fear issue goes, I'd consider trying out a human-tweaked version of desensitization and counter-conditioning. Does he have a particularly favorite snack, like chocolate? Try pairing seeing a dog from a short distance with nibbling some chocolate chips or similar. Start shortening the radius, but only as far as he's comfortable doing so. Have him talk his way through it, telling you what he likes and dislikes about that particular dog. Don't critique his thoughts, just nod and ask for more information. Do one dog at a time, and start with the least threatening appearance - usually ones that have rounder heads and floppier ears trigger the lizard part of our brains the least. The ones with sharper muzzles and prick ears tend to call back to our ancient fears the most. Never try flooding (overwhelming exposure to the point of shut-down). It'll probably take time, and you'll definitely have to work your way up in size and "scariness," but it'll be worth it in the long run. Good luck!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2012 17:56
|
|
|
ButWhatIf posted:I'd like to throw out a piece of information. I've noticed a lot of people suggesting that a middle-of-the-night potty break is absolutely imperative, and that's not entirely true. While it can be helpful, it's not really 100% necessary. Dogs and humans both secrete antidiuretic hormone or vasopressin, which helps retain water in the body. More of this hormone is secreted at night, which is why we are capable of "holding it" while we sleep (unless we have an imbalance, which causes nocturia). This is also true of dogs. ADH secretion increases during a normal sleep cycle, so unless you suspect your puppy of potentially developing diabetes, or you plan on letting him sleep for more than 6 or 7 hours consecutively, you shouldn't need a midnight tinkle. I put this on page like 4 or 5, but I think it bears repeating. We did do a 3 am bathroom run for our pup when she was in the 8-10 week range, and if you're going to bed around 10 or 11, it wouldn't hurt. Just keep in mind that some pups wake up for their late-night potty run and then want to play, so it may also be difficult to get your dog on a consistent sleep schedule at first as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2012 18:18
|
|
|
a life less posted:In short, it's not life scarring, no. But you could do much better. This woman sounds irresponsible and unknowledgeable in her breeding and puppy raising practices. We obviously want the best for our animals so we strive to set them up for success from the very start (which she is not doing). And we also don't like to encourage shoddy breeding practices since the world has enough crappy breeders making pets as it is. In addition, you will likely end up with some major play skill deficits, and your puppy might not be okay playing with other dogs at all. If you are okay with never going to a dog park ever, the dog having serious health issues like hip dysplasia (I am willing to bet your friend's mom doesn't do any genetic testing of her breeding stock), having your hands chewed up a lot more, and just general behavioral issues, go for it. I'd recommend taking a step back and re-thinking this, though.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2012 16:33
|
|
|
soap. posted:Helo (6 month old Aussie) developed a limp yesterday after playing with his sister for a few hours. I felt up and down his leg, inspected his paw pads, and worked all his joints--nothing bugged him. I iced his leg a few times yesterday as well. He's still limping today, but not as bad. Currently we're keeping him confined so he can't run around and only walking him to eliminate. We're in a similar situation with our year-old Corgi. We took Neige in to see a vet, and having a week's worth of anti-inflammatories didn't help, so she's scheduled for an x-ray on the leg on Monday. I'd take him in if he's still limping, the NSAID will help if the injury is minor, and if it doesn't, it's good to know what your next steps should be.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2012 19:06
|
|
|
Millions posted:http://www.melynrhoscorgis.com : This one looked promising at a first glance, but then I saw the inexplicable Corgi/Great Pyrenees crossbreeds done in vitro... Also the page on "fluffies," which I know isn't a breed standard. Holy crap I remember this. Be encouraged by the fact that the Great Pyr cross was very definitely not done intentionally and was made into a lawsuit. The breeder did ask for their Pembroke bitch to be artificially inseminated, but someone at the lab grabbed the wrong vial of frozen semen and those pups were the result. The bitch had to have a c-section and was spayed and lost eligibility for showing and registering any of her future offspring. It was a huge uproar at the time, and I recall non-dog people not getting how this was lawsuit-worthy. As for fluffies, I highly doubt they are actively breeding for that coat type, but of all the genes worth completely screening out and avoiding like a plague, that's not one of them. ...said the fluff-factor Cardigan owner.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2013 17:47
|
|
|
systran posted:Just got back from the vet. He was constipated because he had eaten a bunch of hair somehow. He took a poo poo and now he is back to his normal self. I'm glad it was nothing neurological! Corgi.txt Goes off food, limps, shows signs of discomfort - everyone stresses out because it must be spine/neurological - turns out he is just completely full of poo poo. I am super relieved for you guys!
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2013 20:47
|
|
|
For house-training, my rule of thumb is "can I see her?" If so, fine. If not, either restrict access to other parts of the house or put back on a long line. Once you've hit a good month or so with no accidents, expand access to the house. If there's a set back, go back to last set-up where you had success.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2013 19:57
|
|
|
After very recently reading a story about a French Bulldog puppy who was killed by a Petco trainer who lifted the puppy off the ground by its neck, I never recommend big box chains for training, socialization, any of the above. Yes, the stores are trying to make the shift away from "punishment-based" training, but they don't have any actual requirements in terms of the people they hire, there's no certification process (which is a whole other huge kettle of fish within the industry that our company is going to be lobbying for), and there's no guarantee that the trainer at any particular store isn't going to be doing something harmful or undesirable.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2013 18:28
|
|
|
Martello posted:
He's referring to "dominance," which is not an actual canine personality trait like celebrities and pop culture want you to believe it is. Just technically speaking, a dog cannot be dominant. The concept requires a dyadic relationship and a resource to even be relevant. There's an excellent article on the subject called "Dog Whispering in the 21st Century" I can link you to (when I'm back at my computer) if you're interested.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2013 19:18
|
|
|
Hey, quit dogpiling. It's 2013, the economy is poo poo, people have to work. I've housetrained clients' dogs who were far less invested and they turned out fine, even if it was less than ideal at the time. I definitely think an indoor long-term confinement place is the best option here, with a doggy litterbox type scenario.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2013 21:18
|
|
|
TShields, please keep in mind that some of us who are giving you advice generally get paid for dispensing said advice, so when you say that compliance is gonna be low, we stop giving a poo poo about trying to help, because why should we? You're not paying us for that advice and you're saying you're not gonna take it, so I guess good luck with your problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2013 22:43
|
|
|
I really suggest just planning for one dog or puppy and seeing how your finances and lifestyle look before actually planning anything else at all. We WAY underbudgeted for our dog's needs, and while it didn't damage us financially, it could have if we had had less disposable income/savings. Don't jump the gun on anything, because you may end up with a dog you love who just can't tolerate being around other dogs. It happens.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2013 03:56
|
|
|
I don't soak Neige's food, but it's raw and full of moisture. She doesn't drink water during the day much unless we've been playing really hard and that means she doesn't chug until she spews anymore. For that alone, I am eternally grateful.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2013 06:44
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Doc's new trick this morning is leg humping. Is there anything we can really do about that, and what's the best way to train it out of him? Interrupt, interrupt, interrupt. You can try redirecting to a chew item to give him an alternative self-soothing behavior, but it's likely not going to be as popular as the previous behavior. If the behavior is causing actual physical discomfort to the person being humped (some dogs like to dig in with their claws or are just way too heavy and solid), you can institute a timeout policy (15 seconds in a boring place, like the bathroom or a closet), but I'd only recommend that as a last resort.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2013 22:24
|
|
|
If the "ouch" noise you're making is just leading to higher arousal, skip the noise or modify it so it doesn't sound like a play sound (deeper, more guttural might help). The real important part is the ending of the game. If that honestly isn't helping and you're starting to get people asking you if you've been cutting or self-harming, it might be time to start using time outs. You'll want to give the pup the option to stop by using the "ouch" and walk away method, but if it continues after that, say "Time out!" and pup spends 15-20 seconds (no more than that) in a Boring Place like a bathroom or closet. We had to do this for a client whose border collie pup was forcing everyone to wear heavy rubber boots around the house to prevent bleeding ankles. Eventually, it worked. Time and consistency are key.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2013 20:34
|
|
|
Walking in general does precisely nada toward a dog's physical stimulation needs. Dogs need 30 min of heart-pounding exercise, which walks don't really provide. If you're looking to burn that energy, ball throwing, tug, zoomies are all going to be better options since dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an olympic athlete. Walks are great for novelty, practicing behavior in distracting locations, and getting to interact with the larger world, but I never count it toward a dog's daily exercise.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2013 16:49
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:What are you doing right now and when is she breaking the stay? You could have just said this part, you know, without saying "you're doing it wrong." I've found my clients to be more compliant and responsive when no blame is being placed for things not happening the way they want. Stay is especially difficult, and it often feels like you hit a wall at certain points - adding disappear and going directly behind the dog seem to be the most challenging by far. If you hit a wall, go back to the last place where it was still able to happen, then baby step it toward the new goal.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2013 17:37
|
|
|
When was the last time he was at the vet? When a behavior change comes seemingly out of nowhere, sometimes there are underlying medical causes that are worth trying to rule out first.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2013 17:55
|
|
|
The reasoning behind crate specifically is that dogs don't want to soil their den space, and a crate simulates that den thing all nicely for them. Unless the dog is from a puppy mill or pet store -those dogs have lost their inhibition against using the den as a toilet.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2013 07:18
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:In regards to the bolded statement, you need to go back and read the OP again. Hey dude we could just replace you with a bot that responds to nearly every single post with this. Like I get that you're frustrated that people don't want to go memorize an OP that rivals Moby loving Dick, but nearly every response you make is either a link to your master's thesis of an OP or a recommendation to re-read it. If people aren't reading it, the fault doesn't lie with the people who don't want to read it. I'm pretty sure most people recommend a yelp rather than a "NO GOD YOU loving DOG OUCH STOP THAT" in fury-voice, in the same way that they recommend an "ah-ah," rather than a "NO SHITHEAD." It's not a magical word or noise that makes a dog Stop Doing a Thing, it's an alternative to screaming at your dog in rage. Otherwise known as a "no reward marker" if you prefer. And using the stupid mythical quadrant system yes it's P+ but who loving cares.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2013 21:58
|
|
|
I have never once suggested smearing butter on a client ever. I think they'd either fire me on the spot or just straight up stop taking me seriously. It's really expensive and seriously the gooniest thing I've ever heard short of recommending that you put cheeto dust on your arms. I literally cannot imagine an actual professional recommending this.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2013 07:00
|
|
|
I survived puppyhood with a high-energy herding breed in a 700 sq ft apartment with no yard. We made a lot of trips out to fields and fenced areas so she could tear around twice a day to her heart's content. She did zoomies in the apartment as well. No biggie at all once you've made the commitment to do what is needed for the dog's benefit. People work. Puppies still somehow manage not to destroy everything or fall apart despite their owners working. Is it the Most Ideal Circumstance? No, but we also feed them processed kibbles and don't let them pee on everything we own and make them walk on leashes on sidewalks made of concrete while seeing other dogs on leashes that they can't interact with, so uh, let's face it, we designed the world for our convenience anyway, and that's not going to change ever. I work with plenty of people who have 9-5 jobs and their dogs end up plenty well-adjusted, so let's not pretend that there is One Right Way to Raise Dogs and any deviation is going to ruin the dog.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2013 23:28
|
|
|
I'd let the demand behaviors extinguish before trying to ask for an alternative one, personally - most people don't like going that route though because the extinction burst is an annoying process, but a behavior that has gone through that process is much less likely to resurface later. Edit: to be clear, extinguishing a behavior means removing all reinforcement for that particular behavior. Dog can whine all day but is absolutely not gonna get what he wants from it. It will get worse for a bit as he escalates, but eventually he will realize "I am not getting what I want from this, gonna try something else instead." That's when it's better to add the new polite ask-for-attention behavior. ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Nov 27, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2013 19:04
|
|
|
Superconsndar posted:Yeah this. They sulk for a while and then they forget about it. Sometimes it takes a while if they decide to be a little bitch about it (my current puppy was sad about wearing a collar for like a month) but usually they get over it in a couple days. A highly relevant (and adorable [in my opinion because my dog is the cutest creature on earth]) video on puppies not liking their collars and what you should do about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBIW3dYDlbs You should take video and laugh at it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 18:17
|
|
|
Dreylad posted:Also are there any tricks to getting a dog to drop something out of their mouth? I assume it comes down to how they were trained. She's good about letting stuff go indoors, but outdoors when she's distracted it's almost impossible. She manage to get a squirrel tail (no squirrel attached) in her mouth when I was walking with her back to the house. She would just not let it go even though I kept telling her to "Drop it." and "Leave it." which usually works. Managed to pull it out minus a bit of hair which... she promptly ate, and chewed a couple of times on my finger to boot. Dammit dog! How I teach it likely wouldn't work in the squirrel scenario, unfortunately. It's vital to practice a behavior when it's more likely to happen so that you *can* reinforce it. What I do is use a tasty piece of food, say "Drop it," then put the food right in the dog's face. They can't hold onto the thing they've got in their mouth and take the food at the same time, so they basically have to let go of the thing. Repeat until dog is conditioned to immediately open mouth at the phrase. Slowly increase the value of the thing they are dropping until they're having to let go of stuff like garbage or roadkill (ugh). Keep in mind also that since you're dogsitting, odds are you won't get the time to really strengthen this behavior, so keeping a good and wary eye for objects she oughtn't have ahead of time is gonna be your bread and butter. Good luck!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 19:09
|
|
|
Okay hello, I raised a corgi puppy in an apartment and did not once teach it to go to the bathroom indoors or on the balcony (our upstairs neighbors did that, and the piss and poo poo trickled down in the way that Reaganomics works, please don't loving do that). It is absolutely doable, but TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUTSIDE. Your vet does not want you to be quarantining your dog indoors like a 1900's scarlet fever victim, just avoid the dog park and you'll be fine. I highly doubt that Tumbles will catch anything at all if you keep him from seeing the world. At 10 weeks, it is WAY more important for him to be experiencing things like: motorcycles (loud and scary!), crazy neighbors outdoors (erratic and scary!), people carrying crutches (new and scary!), people of color (different and therefore to a dog scary!), people on skateboards (rolly and scary!)...do you see where I am going with this? He is just about to end his critical socialization period (if he hasn't already) and you NEED to be giving him the opportunity to positively experience these things. Hell, I made a major loving effort at making sure Neige saw and liked as many things and people as possible, and she still had gaps (ladders and canes, to be specific). Have him meet tolerant dogs you know are vaccinated, one on one. Have him meet people at Home Depot. Take him outside. Also, he's a herding dog. He needs as much exercise and mental stimulation as he can possibly get if you don't want him to destroy everything you hold dear. Take him outside. A walk might not wear him out physically, but the new experiences will be invaluable at keeping his little brain active and making sure you can sleep at night. You can do it. Take Tumbles outside. He will transform from one of these:  to a pro like this: 
ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Aug 25, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2014 18:01
|
|
|
biggest platypus posted:From talking to other people who live in cities (dog owners, trainers, etc), I've heard over and over that teaching them to go indoors is an ok thing to do, and then you can transition to outdoors once they are further along with vaccinations. I am a trainer who lives in a city and yes you CAN do this but why would you add that extra step? The not-vaccinated thing is way less of a gigantic deal than you (and apparently your vet, jesus christ) are making it out to be. It is way more important for him to be interacting with the world, because in two weeks that critical socialization period will be done. Finished. You will have to do remedial socialization to new experiences, and that can be way more time-consuming and less effective. Between 4-12 weeks (very approximately), your puppy really needs to be seeing as much of the world as you can manage. I recommend to my clients that they need to be meeting 50-100 new kinds of people and things a week, bare minimum. Otherwise, you run the risk of a dog that is fearful of new things or just reactive as hell. Ask me how many reactive dogs I've had to work with who had no experience with meeting new things during their critical period. It's a lot.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2014 19:39
|
|
|
Tumbles will be fine. I lived along the I-5 corridor when Neige was a puppy, where parvo is literally rampant, and she was fine. 100 new people and experiences a week, I'm not joking. Corgis bark a lot when they're NOT flipping out at something they perceive as scary, and right now nothing is really very scary because he's still in that "woo all new experiences are potentially cool and interesting, since all experiences are new experiences" phase. Very soon he's gonna hit his first fear period, and that's generally when you learn what gaps there are in your socialization work.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2014 18:51
|
|
|
Hi, I'm a professional dog trainer who makes a living off telling people about dog behavior. There, now you know that I'm not "that dude" or "some jerk" or whatever the gently caress you wanna use to dismiss my opinions. Yes, that dog you impulse adopted is a pit mix. Pit bulls have a notoriously strong prey drive, are generally not very great with smaller animals (or other dogs), and if your landlord includes them in their banned breed list, it is a terrible idea to lie to them and expect them to not evict you or fine you or something similar. I would never recommend one for someone living in an apartment with a small child and also a cat. I also really really think the shelter did a terrible job placing the dog if they didn't even ask to see your rental agreement to check their banned breed list. I would not trust that shelter to choose the correct owners and if the dog is heartworm positive I also do not trust that shelter to not completely gently caress you over on future vet stuff and medication costs. I hope this has been helpful to you and that you will now stop throwing a gay baby tantrum and using "chinaman" to try to prove some point?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 05:33
|
|
|
PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Wow I don't know what to say. I had no idea there were so many train dog psychology professionals on Something Awful. Then get the gently caress out. Seriously. If you went into TFR and started posting about your garbage trigger discipline and people told you to straighten the gently caress up and you threw as big a loving tantrum as you have here, you'd get banned. PI is loving FULL of people who are trainers, behavior specialists, breed fanciers, breeders, groomers, you name it. We know our goddamn poo poo and quite frankly it's gotten really old that we're expected to pat you on the butt and validate your bad choices while people who've done the work for decades on this stuff get told "this guy's just a jerk." What the gently caress ever happened to "lurk more," for god's sake? I guess PI is different somehow, hmm? EDIT: "Huh dognerds on a forum about dognerdery WHO'D HAVE THUNK" ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Feb 19, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 05:46
|
|
|
seriously mods, if you're looking at this, THIS is why we've all left. Changing the forum name won't do poo poo if you actually want people who know anything about pets or training or whatever to post here.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 05:52
|
|
|
also ban people for calling other people "cunts" for giving reasonable advice. jesus.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 06:09
|
|
|
Superconsndar posted:Dis Woo http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3700934&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post441751234 Woop/Boot my OTP Who had that mockup of a custom photo credit card with the photo of puppy Woop making the OMG HI face while Fronkie humps the crap out of him? That was a good photo.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
PRESIDENT GOKU posted:I live in northern Mississippi with 1 kid and 1 cat. I'd like to spend most of my time with the dog on the couch, and some of the time in the neighborhood on walks and maybe a dog park. I don't mind some noise and my floors are pretty tidy, but not super tidy. TBH what I'd recommend is find a rescue that fosters dogs and makes an effort to understand the dogs' personalities, then tell that rescue exactly what kind of traits you're looking for (appearance being the very last on the list, exercise and grooming level being first). With a little bit of luck, you'll find exactly the right sort of dog that will fit your family's needs. Whatever you do, don't get a Dogue de Bordeaux (a giant breed mastiff), Konondor (an aloof livestock guardian breed), a Ridgeback (oh god please do not get a Ridgeback), or any kind of Sheepdog at all (either an intense herder or a guardian breed). Meanwhile, read up on training methods and food, and keep your fingers crossed that Your Perfect Dog will be out there. (It will, don't worry.)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
I found two in Oxford: Teacher's Pet and K9 Stray Rescue League. Those might be a good place to start. EDIT: if you are nearer to Columbus, there is Canine Castle and Canine Companions. Don't be afraid to drive more than an hour to get to the Right Dog For You. I know people who have driven 6+ hours to pick up their dogs, and no regrets. ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Feb 23, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 10:34 |
|
|
PRESIDENT GOKU posted:I live exactly in Columbus. What Canine Castle are you talking about exactly? The GOOGLE pulls up a boarding house in North Carolina. And Canine Companions is for service dogs. Yuss, I did! Lemme send you the links I found, hang on. And you'll definitely want a dog older than 2. At 2 is around when (depending on breed) a dog has a fully-developed impulse control center in their brain. It may not be very well exercised, that portion of the brain, but it's there, like in a 24-25 year old human.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2015 22:39
|
|