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Speaking of puppies toileting on newspaper/pee pads whilst their owner is out, Lola is still doing that. The dogs are in the kitchen while I'm gone (as its the only non-carpet room) and she goes on the newspaper 99% of the time, but she's like eighteen months now and she still toilets on the floor. I clean it up each time with enzyme cleaner and disinfectant, but it's still happening. Even if I'm only gone for two hours or so and I took her on a long walk before, there's almost always at least pee to clean up. Is she ever going to grow out of it?
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Apr 27, 2012 12:12
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If I take it away she just pees in that area anyway  E: Well, she used to. I'll have to try giving her no newspaper soon, the next time I'm gone for a while. Fraction fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 12:34
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Update on Lola toileting when alone: left her for four hours today whilst I was out, with blankets on the floor and her crate in the usual pee spot. She peed on a blanket E: After I let her out (and she peed) I left her in the living room to go do chores. Came back 2 minutes later and she had crapped on the couch 
Fraction fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 13:40
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Canuckistan posted:I have the opportunity to apply to adopt a beagle that's being retired from a companion animal teaching program. Are you willing to spend a potentially significant portion of time teaching the dog to be okay around everything in and out of the house, and to house-train an older dog? How much exercise are you looking to give to the dog each day? How old (roughly) will the dog be when you get it? Are you willing to slowly teach the dog not to want to eat your cats, if it comes to it, or keep them entirely seperated? Getting a dog as a companion for a child is only okay if you, the adult, are going to take all the responsibility for it. Beagles *can* be pretty high energy, too.
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May 29, 2012 19:17
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gowb posted:My partner and I are thinking about getting a Chow! Is this a good idea? It'd be the first dog we own, though we have two cats, and I grew up with dogs. Why do you want a chow in particular?
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Jul 1, 2012 08:57
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Yeah, I think you are telling me what I was thinking. I was somewhat wary of the whole "rat terrier" thing. I asked what his energy level was going to be (they have the mom) and the rescue lady seems to think they'll be moderate and that a couple of walks and running around my (large) yard would be enough. I'm uncertain of that. Both will contribute to that. Rat terriers are terriers; they want to bark and jump and nip and kill things. Exercise levels can vary wildly and a parent's level =/= the offspring's. My JRT's litter is all different in how much exercise they need. You could get lucky and have him basically be a terrier looking crested, but with the possible anxiety he's showing I'd guess he'll require quite a lot of work. What were you thinking/requiring explicitly for this dog, in terms of exercise schedule etc? And are you willing and able to deal with potential dog aggression? It's common amongst terriers (though iirc slightly less so in rats).
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Jul 15, 2012 18:53
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:To answer this and Instant Jellyfish at the same time. 2 daily walks of half a mile or so each really isn't going to cut it for structured walks. I assume by playing in the yard you mean pretty much endless fetch - that's likely what you'll be doing. Terrier mix with cats can work, but there can be some issues depending on how high the dog's prey drive is. Do you know if this dog is cat-tested and okay? And with DA, it's more a case of you might have to work to be able to keep your dog's focus around strange dogs, etc. If you aren't planning on dog parks and are planning on dog sports then a terrier mix could work pretty well though. Honestly, terriers and terrier mixes are not really recommended for young children. That the pup was startled by your child isn't a good sign; a nervous terrier will tend to react first by barking and biting, because that is what they want to do and that feels good for them. That the pup already shows anxiety at a young age isn't a good sign at all; I'd be wary of one of your child's friends startling it and sending it into a reactive burst. (Some reactive terriers shut down, but most do respond aggressively to threatening situations.) I actually think you'd be better suited to a general mutty mutt or maybe an older lab or something. An older lab would love to play endless fetch, and would be more likely to be more tolerant of children, less anxious and needy, etc.
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Jul 15, 2012 21:02
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notsoape posted:Honestly, I find opinions like this rather classist. What is the minimum that owners should have put away for canine emergencies? $1000? What if the dog needs surgery that would cost $1500 and they can't afford it - are they irresponsible owners yet? I wonder if this is generally an American owner versus Brit owner thing, because opinions like that always strike me as classist too. There's a difference between not being able to afford sudden, unexpected surgery and not being able to afford routine things (food, flea meds, etc), and I don't think people who earn less should be looked down on for choosing to get pets.
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Jul 16, 2012 11:14
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Asnorban posted:Our 4 month old won't let us brush him. We have tried a few brushes of varying teeth and no matter what it is he immediately bolts away. This is the only thing he isn't down with us doing. We have tried doing it while he is dead asleep, worn out from a walk, after a bath, while treating heavily, etc, but nothing will work. Any tips on how to get him to at the very least tolerate it? He has long enough fur that it needs brushed but he is getting too big to have to try to hold him back while brushing, so it needs to be something he will let us do on his own. Slap a leash on him, tie him to something, and brush him. Feed high value treats whilst brushing - but whether or not he likes it, he gets brushed. The best time to do it is when you get back from a walk, as he'll have a collar and harness on and you can just bring him straight inside and brush.
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Jul 16, 2012 18:09
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Menu Express posted:Depending on what her vet says about her, I'm adopting this bitch tomorrow I can definitely see JRT in that face, body and tail. Not sure about beagle though.
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Jul 30, 2012 08:17
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tonic316 posted:Best friends mother who has bred dogs before. So not some random BYB. They are well cared for and I have visited the dog multiple times. As for why so early, she seems to think 6 weeks + is ok. Can't they learn said manners from me but it will just take longer? Why is she breeding the dogs? Why does she not know the very basics of responsible breeding? I mean poo poo, that you can get rid of the pups at 8 weeks is common knowledge. Any sooner and yes your dog will miss out on very important dog skills and socialisation with its family. ETA she might be someone you know and she might not be a puppy miller but she is still a byb
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Aug 2, 2012 11:11
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tonic316 posted:So then it goes back to my original question. Is this life scarring stuff? Or can I train around it? Why do you *have* to get THIS puppy?
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Aug 2, 2012 16:00
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Snowmankilla posted:On to the question. My wife and I have always wanted to rescue a dog form the pound, not buy from a breeder. How do I look for a dog that has the traits I am looking for, without it being a pure breed? I would want on the smaller side, not need to go for 2 hour walks every day, and want to curl up in my lap at night. We are not in a hurry to get a dog, so I want to make sure I have my homework done first. Tell a shelter what you want and let them match you up with a dog. Pretty much any small, non-terrier dog would likely be a good fit for you.
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Aug 2, 2012 16:28
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Why does she want a rottweiler? Is she prepared to exercise it and do whatever necessary to keep it's guarding tendencies under control? Is she getting a puppy or adult? If she isn't going to exercise (mentally and physically) the hell out of it, you can prepare for a neurotic, possible bitey mess. If she is, you'll probably have a good, big dog. I think rotties can be predisposed toward being dog aggressive (especially same-sex, iirc) as well as having guarding tendencies/human aggression tendencies with strangers.
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Aug 6, 2012 11:25
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Herr Tog posted:She has express serious love towards dogs and especially that breed and the idea of having a dog again. I guess I can assume by your post that I should be prepared to take part of this very excessive, mental and physical. Do they get bitey with other dogs? Has she had experience with rottweilers before? They really aren't dogs that you get just because you like the look of them. But yeah you should expect to be providing a job for this dog, walking it a lot, maybe biking with it when it's old enough (2+ years) to help stimulate it. AFAIK they can get aggressive with other dogs, yes, especially those of the same sex, and you'll need to prepare for that possibility and train with that in mind.
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Aug 6, 2012 11:32
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Clean it with an enzymatic cleaner? I think 'Nature's Miracle' is the popular one in the US.
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Sep 4, 2012 20:44
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Leave it until the next scheduled meal time. Pup will learn to eat when his food is put down.
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Sep 12, 2012 18:15
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MrFurious posted:This is a bad post that perpetuates the idea that dogs can tell who the "bad guys" are. They can't. Ever. Ayuppp a dog that has a meltdown over, presumably, the handler's feelings of slight uncertainty/awkwardness is not a dog that is completely unreactive and stable.
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Oct 12, 2012 23:24
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Scrubber posted:My family has a 13 week old Shiba Inu puppy and we've been allowing her supervised off leash play in the fenced back yard, along with a 10 year old Sheltie. This includes Frisbee, ball chasing, flirt pole chasing and a little bit of play with the older dog. She does sprint around a lot, but only when she feels like it. IANAV, but in my opinion... Walking is fine, light flirt pole is fine, playing with other dogs is fine, fetch/frisbee is fine... in moderation. Unless you have an intense, drivey pup like a herding breed or something that will literally run itself into the ground, you can generally let the puppy decide when it's had enough. Just use your head, give the dog plenty of breaks, and don't do high impact repetitive movements (like jogging or biking on pavement or road) until the dog is at least a year or more old, depending on its size. If you weren't able to do anything at all with a puppy, everyone would kill theirs. There's always a risk with any exercise with a dog, especially anything involving fast movement or high impact, but if you're sensible you should be fine (IANAV). Dogdoo 8 posted:I'm having trouble finding a harness I like. The one I got at the Humane Society was too loose in the neck and then Beartato got his leg caught in the harness and I had to cut the harness off. I like the step in harness I got, but he seems confused as to how to put it on. I got a Kong harness and I like the idea of the chest plate, but I don't like the way it sits on him. Does anyone have recommendations? I have a trixie fleece padded harness for my JRT. The padding means she can pull as much as she wants on a bike, when jogging, etc, without it rubbing against her. I'm pretty sure you can get them in America (under a different name maybe?) and I love my one. It does depend on what kind of harness you like/whether Beartato is a puller or not, too, as to what kind of harnesses would be best!
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Oct 21, 2012 09:41
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By walk do you mean on-leash, human paced walk? That could be your problem. I take both of my dogs on a hour to hour and a half walk (probably around 3.5-4 miles) each night, and when we get back my old dog is tired and my two year old JRT is looking at me as if to say, 'okay that was fun now where is my proper exercise?' I can't even imagine how hellish she would be if the only exercise she got was on-leash walks.
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Jan 4, 2013 19:21
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At eleven weeks, surely he should have been going out for walks by now? Stick the collar on and give him something delicious to distract him for a while, like tripe. He'll deal with it.
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Jan 14, 2013 11:59
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windex posted:The nice thing about small dogs is that they are infinitely happy with about 40-60 minutes a day of exercise and they otherwise basically just want you to sit down so they can sleep on you. quote:they are infinitely happy with about 40-60 minutes a day of exercise t  YMMV! Fraction fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 01:43
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windex posted:Find a non toxic yuck spray the dog hates and prepare to cover your hands in it during bitey time when redirection fails. Puppies don't respond well to no without reinforcing penalties. You really don't need to use bitter sprays. It's not teaching a puppy much other than to find your hands aversive (the only if you actually remember to spray before the pup starts chomping). It's much better to act like a puppy yourself and yelp very loudly and turn away to give the puppy the cold shoulder for a while; or, for dogs that are excited by yelping or way over threshold, yelping & immediately leaving the room. The upside of yelping is that it's pretty much understood by every puppy, particularly if they spent the correct amount of time with their littermates. Plus it has the positive affect of teaching the puppy to have control over their mouth and of their bite pressure, rather than teaching that hands are bad.
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Feb 4, 2013 07:16
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^^^ That doesn't answer how it is 'inappropriate'. How is yelping and giving the cold shoulder inappropriate?  If the yelping isn't to mimic another puppy's yelp of alarm/pain then why yelp instead of using a specific verbal cue (e.g. 'teeth' or something else unique). Fraction fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 16:17
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MrFurious posted:"Inappropriate" doesn't just mean uncouth. It can also mean improper, incorrect, or perhaps a better synonym in this case would be ineffective. Yup, it's highly ineffective. That's why it's so often recommended. And why it has worked for so many people. I've never heard of yelping as being a no-reward marker. That's really not what people use it for. But *~in your experience~*,
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Feb 4, 2013 18:28
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MrFurious posted:This is just off the cuff. I know Donaldson says the same thing, and I'd be surprised if Dunbar doesn't have something similar. I haven't seen any of the big names recommend a high pitched yelp, but feel free to correct me. The audio cue you end up using absolutely does serve as either a NRM or negative punishment, depending upon the details. They aren't saying that yelping is going to cause a negative impact, though. Your word choice, alongside pairing my suggestion (to yelp & ignore or yelp & remove self) with the suggestion to cover one's hands in bitter spray, suggested that it was wholly 'inappropriate' to yelp. That is not the case. quote:Pat Miller: You’re using negative punishment, just like the pup’s mom and littermates. The ignoring of the biting puppy, or removal of yourself, is the same tactic that a puppy's mother or littermates would use. Do you have any quotes from anyone saying to NOT yelp? Like, specifically not to do that because it is inappropriate. Dunbar (Sirius Dog Training): quote:Puppy biting seldom causes appreciable harm, but many bites are quite painful and elicit an appropriate reaction—a yelp and a pause in an otherwise extremely enjoyable play session. Thus, your puppy learns that his sharp teeth and weak jaws can hurt. quote:A simple "Ouch!" is sufficient. If your pup acknowledges your "ouch" and stops biting, praise her, lure her to sit (to reaffirm that you are in control), reward her with a liver treat, and then resume playing. If your pup ignores the "ouch" and continues biting, yelp "Owwwww!" and leave the room. Your puppy has lost her playmate. Return after a 30-second time-out and make up by lure-rewarding your puppy to come, sit, lie down, and calm down, before resuming play.
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Feb 4, 2013 19:42
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princecoo posted:I have a question about a new puppy we have acquired this week. Why the hell would you get a high energy, too young (pups shouldn't leave their mother until at least 8 weeks, if not more) BYB puppy the same week a child was born? I'm trying to wrap my head around it but that just seems like the dumbest thing.
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Feb 18, 2013 08:21
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Would you be planning to get a puppy, and leave it until 3 alone? Terriers in general have small bladders, and can be pretty difficult to house train. AFAIK Norwich terriers are on the ' less high energy' scale, but I don't think a ~30 min walk would cut it for an adult unless you landed the laziest dog ever. It certainly wouldn't cut it for a puppy.
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Mar 11, 2013 08:11
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Generally speaking: raw, non weight bearing bones = good, cooked bones = bad.
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Mar 29, 2013 21:52
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Yup, small dogs can collapse their trachea or something if they pull too hard. I think it's especially because most small dog collars are really thin (usually half an inch is the widest you'll find), so the weight isn't distributed as well.
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Apr 13, 2013 20:24
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Why is it that you have to wait two weeks after the final vaccination jabs before taking out a pup? Does it take two weeks for them to kick in or something? I can't find anything online. Would it be safe to take my pup out at 11 weeks when she's had her second injection? Fraction fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 11:24
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I'm planning to take my pup out a lot in my arms so she can meet people, but the dogs thing will be somewhat of an issue - I don't have many friends with dogs, though those that I do have I'll certainly be visiting. The puppy training classes around here are pretty terrible, too (dominance theory based); they exacerbated Lola's anxiety issues, so I'm very wary of taking Kalli. That does limit my options more though. I was wondering if she'd be able to go out on the ground in places that are very low dog-traffic? There's a whole lot of countryside within easy walking distance that I've visited loads and never even seen one other dog. If that would still be too high risk though (letting her explore/play on the grass), she won't be able to be on grass until she's about thirteen weeks old, which seems really late to me. Nobody I know has a yard with grass.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:02
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Riiseli posted:Can't speak for UK, but over here I'd definitely do this. I don't even worry about the amount of dog-traffic a place gets, unless there is a lot of parvo going around. The issue here is that there's app been cases of it in this area recently. I'm not sure exactly how many, but for there to be cases plural in a TINY town is worrying for me. I have rang the vets to get her appt bumped forward though, so it'll be two weeks until her second injection rather than three. I don't want to risk her health but hng.
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Apr 26, 2013 18:18
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Any ideas for keeping my puppy a) calm and b) cool while we're walking? We hit highs of :12 celsius today and the puppy was wriggling the entire time in our walk, first from wanting to get on the ground, then from being too warm/uncomfortable.
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May 1, 2013 18:52
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Bob Morales posted:Bring water? I've tried; she won't drink it when I'm holding her, and I can't put her down. Thwomp posted:For A, make him first behave before going on a walk. Do a sit and stay for a moment before heading off. I'm not sure what you mean by wriggling during the walk though. Puppies tend to just want to go everywhere at the same time so they tend to just go nuts. Just be firm and remember that you're the one walking and he's coming along. She's not able to go on the ground yet; that's what I mean by wiggling. I'm holding her and she's trying to get on the floor to begin with, and trying to get down to flop and cool off later on. I mentioned the temperature as a at how this ever so super high temperature is making my puppy annoying to hold.
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May 1, 2013 19:08
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BUT PARVO !
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May 1, 2013 19:19
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Hammid posted:Duke is an 8 week old lab/terrier mix who is super adorable (will post photos when I get home), but I am having real issues with what I believe to be separation anxiety. If I leave him in his ex-pen and try to walk more than a few feet, he will start whining and eventually barking if I move far enough away. I turn my back to him and don't go back to him until he stops whining for 10 secs or so, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. I am hoping its just the transition process of a new house/owner, but its kind of wearing me out. I've tried to make his crate/pen super fun and playful, but it just isn't settling in at the moment. Any thoughts? My nine week old border collie pup will still shriek and bite the bars in a rage if I leave her crated to shower/walk my other dog. She sleeps in her crate without more than a moment or two of fussing now though. It's not SA, just a puppy not understanding what's going on and trying to make a big noise to bring you back.
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May 4, 2013 19:53
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Etrips posted:How much / often should a 9 week old Boston Terrier puppy be sleeping during the day? The first three nights he basically slept through the entire night without a peep from him until one of us woke up at our normal times (5-6am). But last night he woke up at around midnight and started crying his head off even after taking out for potty. We think it might be because we let him sleep too much during the day that might have caused this. He wasn't crying because of sleeping too much in the day. Puppies are ridiculous sleepers. When you're growing that much you need a lot of rest! I'd advise feeding at least three hours before bed. Sometimes your pup might not poop before being crated for the night, which is okay. Lots of puppies, especially smaller breeds, won't consistently sleep through the night until they're 3+ months old. Don't give the puppy too much attention when he wakes you. Calmly and quietly let him out, let him do his business, reward him and then quietly lead him back to his crate. He'll need to learn that he can't play at night, night is for sleeping.
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May 12, 2013 07:55
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Is there a guideline to how far a puppy should walk in a single walk (or in a day) compared to how old they are? (Like with the months/hours general rule for how long they should go between toileting.) I definitely don't want to overdo it with Kalli and risk damaging her whilst she's young.
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May 12, 2013 20:03
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:21 |
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She's ten and a half weeks now. What I've been doing (yesterday/today) is carrying her to the field and letting her romp on the extendable leash for two laps of the field (probably about half a mile per lap). We did that three times yesterday and twice today. Does that sound okay or too much?  She mostly runs after/lies down and stares at Lola so at least it's not high impact 
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May 12, 2013 20:14
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