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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Welp, back in to bouldering for 2019 after a 5 year break where I got fat as poo poo.


Upside I can still flash the occasional V3 and I’m working a V4

Also a bouldering gym opened up 6 blocks from my house

Mezzanon fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Feb 19, 2019

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

tortilla_chip posted:

Comedy answer: MEC

E: Next Adventure is good. Or go to the Circuit.

Why is MEC a comedy answer?

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

spwrozek posted:

They would have to drive to Canada for starters.

There’s a MEC two hours from me. Because I live in Canada.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Local bouldering gym has a “yoga for climbers” class once a week that’s free. Think I might check it out and climb after.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

BlancoNino posted:

Yoga really helped with my breathing while climbing, If you find yourself holding your breath through moves I highly recommend it.

spwrozek posted:

It is good for strength and for flexibility as well.


Yoga class was tonight, it absolutely destroyed me in a good way (my flexibility is terrible). Then bouldered for a couple hours after. A plus would highly recommend

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
One month until I can start bouldering outdoors again. Woo

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips?

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
All great advice thank you!

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
gently caress I didn’t warm up sufficiently today and I had my ring finger pop while on a side pull. RICE it is :(

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Ubiquitus posted:

Make sure you're not gaining leg mass in the process. Maintaining strength is good, but any added leg mass is detrimental.

Counterpoint: squats rule (just not for climbing)


Does anyone have the link handy for the theraflex bar elbow exercises?


ShaneB posted:

*Looks at aging, late 30s body* :magical:

*looks at aging, mid 30’s body*

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Hot Diggity! posted:

hosed up my finger ughhhh

I’m just finishing a finger rehab. Take time and slowly rehabilitate it

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
What’s the go-to option for getting shoes re-soled? I have some exceptionally beaten up and comfortable madrocks that I would like to get redone for casual climbing while I break in my new shoes. Do I just mail my shoes off or?????


Edit:

Mezzanon posted:

What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips?

Follow up to this, I’ve been working my triceps more and now I can do 5 sets of 7 for dips.

Mezzanon fucked around with this message at 10:13 on Jun 4, 2019

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

gamera009 posted:


I think I’m done with try-hard V9 or pursuing V10. I have way more fun at V6. :(

This is how I feel but at the v5 level. At least until I lose 20 pounds

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Zephro posted:

Thanks. If there's a way to do it without gear, even better. The jumping muscle-ups sound like a good idea, I might try them. My local gym has a bunch of boxes that would be perfect for that.

I'm guessing the hardest bit is going to be the transition from a low jump to doing it from a dead-hang, though, right? It feels like even a small amount of momentum would make things dramatically easier.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6v6IsZcvqCA

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

armorer posted:

There are a few mobile apps (rakkup and gunks app, maybe others) that have gps locations for individual problems. It may be worth checking if the area you're bouldering in has a guide on one of those apps.

The apps are free, but the guides are not unfortunately.

We use 27 crags locally.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Verviticus posted:

i went outside to squamish (which is apparently a great place for bouldering) and i just didn't like it. felt like a long way to do stuff that's less fun just because its outdoors


Climbing outdoors is great because you can just chirp at your friends for being better/worse than you and then after you can go camping/eat/drink. Also the outdoors is majestic as gently caress.




ShaneB posted:

Climbing indoors is fun because colors

Climbing indoors is fun because the problems are curated and obvious, plus you can chirp your friends. And there’s music.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude.

Hell, same.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Managed to sneak out for a quick bouldering session on some real rocks, and uhh, rocks are sharp

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Slimy Hog posted:

Went to the gym on Friday and didn't suck as bad as I thought I would, but I'm super sore even two days later!

I'm looking to get back into it on a regular cadence and trying to convince my buddy to be my belay partner and start getting into roped climbing with an eventual goal of doing some climbing outside. He's having a baby soon so there may be a fatal flaw in this plan...

I’ve been easing two friends into bouldering outside (because all the guns are closed) and it’s a slow and steady process. One trip down. One in a couple weeks.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Slimy Hog posted:

I went on a hike with my family today and stumbled upon some people do a sport climb (living in Boulder rocks); it convinced me to finally try some outdoor stuff!

It sucks that my strength is non-existent due to not being in the gym for 2 years so it will be a bit before I'm confident enough to do anything outdoors.

The bouldering area about an hour away from me is famous for having terrible landings so it's taking a bit of work (and a lot of crashpad/spotting training) to get them comfortable with outdoor climbs. That, and a lack of practice from gyms being closed

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Climbing walls open again this week and I’ve lost 30 pounds since the last time they were open let’s loving gooooooooooooooo.

Plus I’m gonna buy a third crash pad next week to hopefully get a few more outdoor bouldering days over tue summer

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Any climbers have good advice about tennis elbow?

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

armorer posted:

YES. I've dealt with it on and off over the years. You're training too hard for your current tendon strength, it is 100% an overuse injury and you need to learn to recognize the warning signs before it gets bad.

Now assuming you're already dealing with it the best rehab I've found is to get a Therabar (I have the teal one) and to do the exercises that they recommend for it. In the meantime you need to avoid any sort of climbing that antagonizes it. For me that means I need to switch to climbing exclusively juggy overhung stuff below my grade and make sure I don't chicken wing if I get tired.

I’m lucky enough that I’m not going through it right now, but I do remember it from the last time I was climbing and I wanted to take some preventative steps if I could. Using the therabar is a great plan, thanks for reminding me!

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
I have been increasing the number of dips and other tricep exercises, so I’m glad to hear that’s a step in the right direction (I also lost 35 pounds, which has honestly been great for climbing)

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

RabidWeasel posted:

I've known a couple of fairly hefty climbers and it's safe to say that it's certainly easier to get injured when you're carrying more weight, even if you're strong; but if you enjoy climbing it's also a good motivator to help you to lose weight. Unfortunately, climbing isn't a very effective way to lose weight unless you're already in good enough shape to spend a lot of time on the wall in a single session, so if you want to lose weight to climb better you do really need to do supplementary exercise (since I moved late last year I cycle most days I don't climb which seems to be a good combination for me)

Yeah I’ve lost over 30 pounds since mid March and it’s been through cycling, climbing, and most importantly monitoring what I put in my body.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Climbed on real rocks for 3 hours before getting rained out today. gently caress yeah

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Feeling strong lately

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I'm watching this video about coordination dynos :twisted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcybemmTms

My problem with coordination dynos is that I have no coordination

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Finally moved up a tape grade at the bouldering gym (sent my first red tape, which is a gym v5/6, so like an outdoor 3 lmao) but it feels good to achieve one of my goals for the last several months.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Sab669 posted:

It really really depends on the specific climb / crag. Some have great flat clean landings, otherwise slide down a short hill. And yea some very sketchy top outs can be very unnerving, even if the climb itself was easy.

(Trying not to doxx myself) the crag I usually climb on has just heinous landings so you need an abundance of pads AND spotters: https://27crags.com/crags/frank-slide

But also, if anyone else climbs in this area, dm me.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Good news: Gonna try and sneak a couple hours of outdoor climbing tomorrow

Bad news: it's immediately after an involuntary two weeks off due to covid so I'm not expecting a lot of strength on the rocks.

But we'll see!

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Sab669 posted:

Looks like Canada no longer requires a test before entry, so I'm hoping to get back to my crag soon. But it's been an incredibly wet Spring, so I think it would not be a good time if I went this weekend.

Where in Canada?

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Finally made some outdoor climbing sessions for the season.

At big rock:

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
And bonsai:

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Verviticus posted:

its cool but that rock really isnt that big. ive seen like at least ten bigger than that.

I make that joke everytime I’m at the rock. But it IS the worlds largest glacial erratic

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

vonnegutt posted:

I use cuticle scissors. They're smaller and made for cutting tough skin.

then sand em down after you trim em

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Is that the big rock that the really lovely beer company named itself after?

Yeah. But that pic is of the small side part of it.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
The bouldering gym I go to added Yoga for climbers classes a couple weeks ago. They're included with my membership so I've been hitting them twice a week. Unsure if I've seen any bouldering improvements, but I've got less lower back pain so my quality of life is up.


I'll check in after 3 months and see if my flexibility has improved at all.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Entered a local bouldering comp over the weekend. Got 28/40 and think I can go up a grade with projecting river the next couple days.

Got one solid photo of myself from the photographer as well! (Too bad it wasn’t on something’s hard)

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Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Somehow leveled up over the last 3 weeks and went from projecting gym V4-5’s to gym V5/6’s (which is probably an outdoor 3 but we’ll take it)

I guess all those cookies over Christmas paid off (but it’s probably the consistent climbing, decent diet, and regular stretching/yoga6

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