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For a budget of $200, how is a used LG 55LE5500 in good condition? 55", name brand, 1080p, decent but not spectacular reviews overall seems like about what you get in that price range. Is there anything else I should be on the lookout for? Edit: And is getting an older used DLP a disaster waiting to happen as a general rule? Looking at the Sony KDS-60A2000 which was admittedly top of the line when it came out. A Bag of Milk fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Apr 11, 2017 |
# ¿ Apr 11, 2017 03:11 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 13:31 |
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I'm looking to hook up my TV to my computer over HDMI, but I need about 75ft. All I need is 1080p 60hz, so I'm not too bandwidth hungry. I did some research, and it looks like a CAT6 converter may be my best option. So if I buy, say, this monoprice extender with this CAT6 cable and just plug everything in it'll just work fine? Any extra steps or better options? The monoprice thing seems to have two different but similar holes, which is rapidly exiting my comfort zone.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2019 08:15 |
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Reading the description, you'll need two Ethernet cables. Ah, right, yes, thanks. That does make it a touch more unwieldy. BeastOfExmoor posted:You'll need two identical Cat5E/Cat6 cables for that to work. I'm always a little leery of those inexpensive extenders, but the reviews look good. I'll have to remeasure because 60ft will be really close, but that looks like a great deal, thank you. I will likely bite the bullet on the longer one anyway if it comes to that, since running one cord instead of two just sounds like a better time and the Cat6 solution isn't perfect or anything.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2019 04:36 |
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The anti-soundbar guy upthread was an aggressive weirdo, but I really gotta push back on soundbar apologism a little bit. It just isn't the best solution for 99% of people. Nearly everyone is going to have space between the bottom of the tv and the floor for some kind of shelf - you don't have to bother your downstairs neighbors with a woofer. You generally never have to touch the receiver or speakers after setup. You can take $100 to craigslist and get a nice pair of bookshelf speakers, where, just the fact that you can separate them and angle them at the couch will create a soundstage that obliterates soundbars. Sound is like half the movie, and you're dropping four figgies just to display the image half. Please no.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2020 23:54 |
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BonoMan posted:Soundbars were created *because* they are the better solution for 99% of people. Yes some TVs nowadays are sitting too low and it may take something to figure out. But pretending a receiver and speaker setup is an easier solution for most people just isn't the case. It's exactly *why* soundbars are made. Yes, I agree that soundbars are made because they are an easier solution for most people. But starting from the day after you put your system together, it's the same amount of easy. And your reward for putting in slightly more effort in the setup? A continuous, indefinite payback of remarkably better sound.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2020 01:22 |
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To me, buying a soundbar because it's sleek and wireless is like buying a tv with poorer picture quality because it has a smaller bezel. But I realize now many people would do that, and I can only speak from the perspective of trying to get the best sound quality for the price. So I won't prolong this debate.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2020 04:01 |
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Hisense H6510G
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2020 06:24 |
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Rhyno posted:So it you had to flip a coin between the 75" Hisense H65 or the 75" TCL 4 Series Roku, which would you go with? I have been researching these two side by side and my verdict is Hisense by a hair, mostly because it gets about 10% brighter or so. Roku software is probably a bit nicer to use, but you can install a lot more on android since it's android. Irrelevant to me since I just use my Roku Ultra
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2020 18:18 |
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LorneReams posted:Adding a little trip report on this. This TV cost 10% of what the TV it was replacing was ($250 on Saturday, vs $2300 for the 900A in 2013), and with what I'm watching and using it for, it seems better in every way. I also somehow managed to snag the H6510G on the same sale. I had 1 pickup location go from in stock to out of stock for pickup while I was checking out. Rather than play whack a mole with diminishing stock, I opted to have it shipped. From my end, it seems like the deal was available for a little over 90 seconds. All that to say, I am awaiting my delivery in a few days. The widespread positive feedback really has my hopes up. But there's really nothing to fear, since it is replacing a Toshiba 50L2200U.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2020 00:10 |
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Got the hisense h6510g from bestbuy black friday delivered. There should be a way to set up picture settings on a per hdmi port basis, right? So port 1 can be set to game, port 2 to picture and so on? The input lag is a big enough deal that video games need to be played in game mode.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2020 03:02 |
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FBS posted:I'm going to be in the market for a (probably) 75" TV soon for my living room. Budget is $1000-2000. Sony X900H is pretty ok and has VRR, but I think the X950H might be the better deal even though it lacks VRR. You can't do HDR+VRR on the 900, and there are some other limitations. Both in your price range.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2021 20:57 |
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KingKapalone posted:I have the Smart Control and the Harmony Hub. There's a list of buttons from the LG remote when I go to edit a button on my Harmony remote and don't see that one. I have a Shield 2019 playing remuxes with Plex and Kodi and everything works fine. I never got as deep as that reddit thread and would personally only noodle with settings like that if something seems off. The one compatibility hangup I've run into with the Shield 2019 is that it does not play 4k mp4 files, so that's definitely something to keep in mind. I've never thrown a 4k mkv file at the Shield it didn't just handle. DV, Atmos, whatever. There's a bitrate limit, but no movie will ever get close. Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about potential problems before they actually arise.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 02:52 |
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Aware posted:Lol the X900H most definitely does not have VRR yet and may never. 4k120 is still broken too displaying 1080p vertically so poo poo is blurry particularly noticeable with a desktop. I run a 65" X900H from a desktop with a 3080. Sony really overpromised and ubderdelivered here. Ah yes, I want to apologize for getting this wrong. That was me misreading eventual support as current, which I am now rereading as pretty unlikely ever. Or I may have been duped by some misleading marketing because I think I would have remembered if the original plan was "maybe no vrr ever". This is like the refresh rate debacle with "120" plastered all over everything, 60hz or not. But I'm sure the x900h has the "variable refresh rate motion index" set to "on". DACK FAYDEN posted:I want to spend about a hundred dollars and get the most garbage-rear end television with zero features possible. I want "turns on" and "has HDMI port and outputs sound" and I care about literally nothing else. Is that even possible in 2021? Hisense and TCL are both reputable budget brands with generally non-garbage panel quality and a smaller feature set on the lower end. Check out a 43" TCL 4 Series and you'll be doing way better than an element/onn/sceptre etc.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2021 08:40 |
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Palmtree Panic posted:Looking for TV recommendations. I've been using one 32'' TV for the past 12 years. Pretty much anything will be an upgrade over it. Hisense U7G 55" is right outside your price range at 850ish and has the PS5 goodies like 120hz. I also sit about 6-8 feet from the TV and am very glad I went 65". You could get a 65" U6G and stay within your budget with still a very nice panel, but you lose the PS5 specific features by going down one model number.
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2021 17:15 |
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Thread has mentioned bias lighting a few times recently. The issue I've run into in the past is the lights turning themselves on when the TV is off, a function of Android TV being erratic. They'll turn on, stay on for a minute or so, then turn off, all without user input. This seems common for others as well, especially for certain models. I've looked around + contacted the company and haven't found a solution besides manually turning the lights off each time they turn themselves on, which is a huge pain in the rear end. And I sleep in the same room with my TV. So TVs are built in an way that will deliver power to USB at random intervals. I'd love to use the bias lighting but I've never found a permanent, elegant solution. Does there exist some kind of USB controller that could regulate the power delivery better?
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2021 17:35 |
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qirex posted:They were flashing on my Sony TV when it was off so I just plugged them into the wall wart and use the remote. I only really use them when watching movies at night anyway so I didn't want them on all the time. I know of one solution but it's an incredibly expensive way to achieve it if you don't need the other functions of the box Thank you, the wall solution will be OK, even though that leaves me with yet another remote to lose with yet another button to press for something that in my brain seems like it should be simple to fully automate. If that box were 1/10th the price and only did USB power regulation I'd consider it for sure.
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2021 02:43 |
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explosivo posted:I have to assume the apps built into these LG's are the ideal way to watch 4K content on a streaming service like netflix, right? Like I'm not going to get a better picture if I hook up an apple tv 4K to an HDMI port and watch Netflix through that? This TV is loving insane I just want to make sure I'm getting the best picture I can outside of like a blu-ray. The apps on smart TVs themselves are notoriously slow, poorly supported, and full of security holes even on high end models. The best options for streaming apps are the apple tv 4k or nvidia shield tv pro, but even a $30 chromecast or anything else will be better than the built in apps on the TV.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2021 04:48 |
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just another posted:If I'm mostly watching 1080p streaming from Netflix or similar, or the occasional downloaded 1080p or maybe 4k public domain movie, am I going to notice much of a difference between something like the $2500 65" LG C1 versus the $1000 65" Hisense U6G? Some points in the C1's favor are that paying $1000 once per decade for a much better quality version of something you use regularly seems like a pretty good value, and the C1 would have obviously and immediately better picture quality even to a layperson. It also has more bells and whistles, and the proportion of media you view that is 4k should increase over the next decade. The 65" C1 is sub 2k at both costco and best buy right now. A pretty personal question overall - ultimately only you can determine what's the best value for you, and they are both excellent TVs. Maybe ask yourself, what would the extra 1k or your pocket mean to you vs the risk of OLED FOMO?
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2021 22:00 |
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I'm about to buy a shield for a new setup, but I gotta say it feels really bad to cough up a full $220 after tax for a 2019 model mere weeks away from 2022. Nobody is gonna release something as good that also plays 4k hdr youtube and 4k .mp4 files? Market seems wide open especially with the new ads on the home screen stirring up a lot of hate. No holiday dealz either unlike last year.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2021 05:23 |
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Hell, I'll probably get a 42" C2 for my desktop/gaming PC, especially if it comes in at something extremely reasonable like $899. Was already thinking about the 48" C1 but it's just a touch too big to be practical.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2022 05:18 |
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Hello otter, Despite your personal experience with Hisense, they may be your best bet. Hisense U6G 75" or TLC 4-series 75" are both solid TVs around your budget.
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2022 03:45 |
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Literally get any streaming dongle and never use your TV apps or input. I have a custom home screen on my Shield with no ads. I filled in the microphone hole on the TV remote with a dot of glue. I think that solves the privacy concern. For WiFi, as long as you don't have any neighbors with an open WiFi network it should never be able to phone home. You could also take off the back of the TV and remove the WiFi module before mounting it. Maybe. All of these fixes a pain in the rear end that should never have to happen, but any TV worth a drat is gonna have these features.
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# ¿ May 3, 2022 04:34 |
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Yes the feasibility of removing the wifi will vary from model to model, but I have heard of it being done successfully. Some are even built to be replaceable, but I'm not sure on specific model numbers. In some cases, the internal wifi antenna can be unplugged, which would make the wifi signal unable to pass through a wall. Youtube would be a good place to poke around I think. Using a pihole or your router settings to block the TV from the internet completely works well, but keep in mind that firestick, chromecast, etc are up to the same bullshit of poking around for open wifi networks to beam data home too. I'm not sure if there's tiers of egregiousness of privacy violations based on company, but unless you're completely physical bluray/dvd or sailing the seven seas full time with LAN streaming only, somebody is gonna gobble up your data somehow.
A Bag of Milk fucked around with this message at 05:48 on May 3, 2022 |
# ¿ May 3, 2022 05:40 |
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There are many YouTube videos that are just some guy saying I used a CX/C1/C2 as a computer monitor for X amount of months or years and here are my thoughts. Lots of variety there.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2022 02:44 |
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Broadlybrowsing posted:Does anyone have opinions on the LG C1 vs B2? They’re about the same price but i wasn’t sure if the newer, lower grade(?) one was comparable This might interest you: https://www.rtings.com/tv/tools/compare/lg-c1-oled-vs-lg-b2-oled/21421/31240 Pretty similar overall. Going B2 for the SDR brightness advantage seems good unless you watch a lot of HDR content.
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# ¿ Sep 10, 2022 06:45 |
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Cpt_Obvious posted:It's the primary television for the house, for use in the living room and watching all the nice things and playing PS4. LG A2 is $900. It doesn't do 4k with 120hz, but it is OLED. Probably the best overall picture quality for the price range you're looking at. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-55-class-a2-series-oled-4k-uhd-smart-webos-tv/6501901.p?skuId=6501901 I don't wanna be 'that guy' and nudge you into going over budget, but Best Buy also has the Sony A80J for $999 right now which is a deep discount and in my opinion an excellent 'no compromises' option. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-55-class-bravia-xr-a80j-series-oled-4k-uhd-smart-google-tv/6455217.p?skuId=6455217 But to make your wallet feel good the Hisense U8H still has a great screen. Can't go wrong. $700 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hisense-55-class-u8h-series-quantum-uled-4k-uhd-smart-google-tv/6511973.p?skuId=6511973 edit: beaten by a few seconds? thats wild
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2022 03:14 |
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Needing to do anything more than press 2 buttons on the remote to manually change the source is wild.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2023 05:10 |
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, but the only reason to buy the Ultra is Ethernet or bluetooth audio. Otherwise the regular 4k Stick provides the same streaming experience. You can go even cheaper if you don't need dolby vision by going with the Express 4k+ or even the base Express 4k for $35. I would not recommend the Roku Ultra for ethernet because it literally doesn't even have gigabit. Seems unbelievable since it's their flagship device to the point where I wouldn't fault someone for just assuming and not even checking. Can't even stream 4k remux. A niche use among the general public, sure, but is desire for gigabit really niche among people who would drop extra coin on the most premium media playback device the company offers? Smh
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2023 18:58 |
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H110Hawk posted:Welp my hellspawn cracked the display on the stupidly fragile LG OLED65C9P screen and it no longer turns on and it turns out whatever scam extended warranty I could have sworn advertised accidental damage coverage does not in fact cover that. Super excited by this fact given watching that very TV is how I unwind every single night before bed. You're looking for the LG C2 or soon to be released C3. If your budget is $2500, I'd strongly suggest the C2 77", on sale recently for sub-2300. Even more fragile, of course.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2023 04:55 |
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Enos Cabell posted:Could you wall mount and get it up and out of the way? I actually got one of those mantlemounts recently since I moved into a new small place and there's nowhere to put the TV except over the fireplace. So bad it's a meme, I know, but I'm very impressed with the mount overall. It's very easy to move up and down and the full travel distance is near two and a half feet vertical. Fully extended is perfect, eyeballs hit the center of the TV bang on. This would also be the perfect solution for keeping children away, since no kid could ever reach my TV when it's retracted. You just gotta kennel em when you're actually watching a movie.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2023 00:13 |
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Best value for dollar sound setup would be buying bookshelf speakers from the local used market. Polk T15, Micca MB42X, and Edifier P12 are some classics that might be a good starting reference. You can't plug them directly into the TV, but if you don't have an AVR than a small amp like SMSL AD18 or Aiyima A07 would work great.
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# ¿ May 24, 2023 02:35 |
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I got an new Denon S760H AVR and plugged both my Nvidia Shield and Switch into it. Here's what happens when I press the power button on my Switch: - Switch turns on and turns the TV on. Switch video output appears on the screen for a second or two. - Shield turns on and output turns to Shield output for about a second. - Video output changes back to the Switch for about 5 seconds. - Finally, video output changes back to the Shield permanently, and I have to manually change it back to the Switch using the remote. If it goes through a little process that's fine, but if I turn on the Switch I'd ideally like to end up on the Switch video output. Is there a magic setting somewhere I have overlooked?
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2023 21:21 |
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MagusDraco posted:This may be an issue/bug with a Denon receiver setting that's stuck around for several years. Thanks for all this info and details. Unfortunately messing with the settings hasn't helped me out, but one poster in that thread suggests putting tape over the HDMI CEC pin for the Shield. I think that may be the way to go. Kinda jank, but at least it's a permanent solution I won't have to think about anymore.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2023 00:26 |
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You can easily remove the ads from the Shield by putting a custom launcher on it. You only do it once then there are no ads forever and the home screen is much more clean. Sure, the average person isn't gonna bother, but the process isn't onerous.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2023 03:13 |
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mantlemount.com Gotta get the mantlemount if its gonna be too high. My TV goes over the fireplace too, but it can be adjusted to go so far down that I can still get the eyeballs aligned with the middle of the screen. Not really a subjective aesthetic thing so much, but rather the fact that neck pain generally reflects actual physical damage being done to the body.
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2024 18:56 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 13:31 |
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playing into the breach and getting a blaring ad every time I think about my turn for too long watching satantango and getting constant overlaid ads because not enough pixels are changing fast enough
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2024 00:21 |