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Since the MR uses int'l standard cartridges, I guess it doesn't take normal Pilot converters? Either way, it probably comes with a cartridge, and cartridges are terribly cheap (and last ages), so you might be able to just pick something up locally. Also, int'l standard converters should be less than £7, I think last I checked they were like $5 — brand really doesn't matter for those.
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Nov 21, 2014 22:04
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  The solution is to not worry about it. Especially not if it's a tiny bit of ink on the slit. Alternatively, get a safari with a black nib. Or something with a hooded nib.
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Nov 29, 2014 22:20
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It's a reminder that an "empty" pen isn't particularly empty, and you should probably at least let it sit in some water for a bit if you aren't going to flush it anytime soon. My Merlin looked a bit like that (although markedly less so) after a few weeks of sitting "empty" of Rouge Hematite. Even the gold-free variants are pigmented as hell, and it'll build up like that if you let it sit for too long — especially in a pen with a smaller nib, like a Merlin, just a couple days of disuse will cause it to gunk up a bit and be a pain to get started again.
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Jan 17, 2015 02:13
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Slimchandi posted:Except, the MR is a Metro that accepts standard international... It's also not a Parker, and amazon's "others bought this" suggestions really shouldn't be taken to mean compatibility with any other given product. Remora posted:Does anyone know of some quick-drying inks in "weird" or "fun" colors that aren't made by Private Reserve? The girlfish is looking for an ink to use at work on thermal paper, and her boss is Officially Unamused by the drying time of the inks she's using (Noodler's Polar Black and Dragon's Napalm and Pelikan Edelstein Amber), but everything in the Goulet fast-drying section is either "boring" or Private Reserve (which she is not a fan of). You mean thermal paper like for receipts and the like? Because fountain pen ink really doesn't work well with that at all — even days later if I've scribbled something on a gas station receipt it'll smudge at least a bit. Even fast-drying ink assumes the paper's at least a little absorbent, so the ink can bond with it, rather than just sorta sit on top. If you really wanted to write on that sort of paper with a fountain pen, a drier/finer pen/ink combo would probably be the quickest to dry to the point where it probably wouldn't transfer to another paper placed on top of it, but even then it'll still probably smudge if you messed with it. For reference, I found an old receipt from last June, and rubbing my thumb on the stuff I'd written on it (in June) smudged it a bit — not enough to make it illegible, but enough to notice. Of course, it also smudged just a touch less than the receipt I'd written on yesterday. I think that one dried out enough to not smudge when folded in the 5–10 minutes it took me from the gas station to back home, for what it's worth. The June receipt was J. Herbin, and yesteday's was a Noodler's blue-black they don't make anymore.
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Feb 23, 2015 20:42
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It'll sort itself out in a few lines, or you could just wait a bit. Don't leave it uncapped, though. That'll just make it annoying to start later. Either way it'll be sorted out reasonably quick, unless the feed was entirely waterlogged or something. I usually just stick pens in a little cup with a paper towel in it for a couple hours to dry unless I'm in a rush, and that's usually adequate.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:10
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GoodBee posted:I have noticed a bunch of ink on my fingers when I grip my pen like an idiot. Sometimes ink ends up on the section, but it's usually just down at the bottom. Of course, I don't grip my pens there, so that's fine. Anyway the usual starting point for an ahab is something like 8-9 slits visible on the feed. The further the tip of the nib is from the tip of the feed, the drier it'll write, generally. That'll also make it a finer point from the get-go, I believe. I'd check, but mine's not inked up at the moment.
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May 18, 2015 22:47
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howe_sam posted:However, I do agree that some of the so-called bulletproof Noodlers inks aren't as waterproof as they claim. I always got the impression that the waterproof bit of Noodler's more or less meant "You can still read this after it's been soaked," more than anything. That and most of the waterproof inks are only as waterproof as the black component in them (at least with things like Red-Black, which I think is listed as "semi-bulletproof"), so the color'll mostly wash off, leaving just the black. Then again, I've never really bothered to test it on any level beyond "poo poo, I've dripped coffee on this." For all I know, that's doubly-intended as an indicator that someone's been loving with whatever you've written. That's exactly the sort of feature I'd expect from the sort of person who comes up with laser-proof inks, at any rate.
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Jun 17, 2015 03:13
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pienipple posted:Parker Quink Blue-Black is nice and well behaved. It is excellently well behaved, but I wouldn't call it a dark blue-black. Maybe it's different with broader nibs, but in everything I've used it in, it'll go on quite dark, but then dry (usually very quickly, which is nice) to a fairly bright blue. As an aside, I'm not entirely sure what the advice was for, but apparently adding a little water to noodler's inks helps calm them down a little. I think that's for countering nib creep and needlessly heavy flow. Possibly also to lower dry times, it seems people do so for a variety of reasons. Here's a thread on FPN with people's dilution recipes. So that's possibly a thing you could try out, if you have some empty vials or jars or something and feel like playing scientist.
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Aug 7, 2015 17:38
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No purple or violet. Also, no J. Herbin. Luckily, you could fix both of those with a fine bottle of Poussière de Lune! e. Speaking of J. Herbin, does anyone have Vert Empire and a really wet/broad pen? When I use it in a dip pen (clumsily), it comes out beautiful and dark, but all my pens are fine-ish or smaller, so in practice, it's just a nice subdued green. I'm kinda curious if it comes out super dark in any FP. Zenostein fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 19:42
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Meldonox posted:That's one I've considered actually. That and this. I have a sample of the Noodler's and it looks fantastic but kinda stinks and creeps like crazy. A nice dusty purple would be alright by me though. Poussière de Lune is a great color, and since it behaves nicely with even horrendously cheap and pulpy papers, I nearly always have a Safari full of it laying around. Plus, that dusty purple looks especially nice on ivory-ish papers, like in moleskines (even if it does take ages to dry on them). It's also a nice contrast color with basically everything, for headers and things in notes and lists.
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Aug 21, 2015 23:56
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Zenostein posted:e. Speaking of J. Herbin, does anyone have Vert Empire and a really wet/broad pen? When I use it in a dip pen (clumsily), it comes out beautiful and dark, but all my pens are fine-ish or smaller, so in practice, it's just a nice subdued green. I'm kinda curious if it comes out super dark in any FP. This is what I meant:  Out of pretty much any fountain pen I try, Vert Empire looks like the rightmost loop of "Hoeffler," a light olive green. I'm wondering if that's just how it is in any fountain pen — even in my F Pelikan (m215), which I consider a pretty wet pen — it ends up that lighter green. It's still very nice, but it would be great to get the deeper green out of a fountain pen. Incidentally, in case I hosed the color balance or something: everything below "Hoeffler" is india ink and a crow quill, and above is Vert Empire with a "101 Imperial" nib.
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Sep 1, 2015 01:13
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NeurosisHead posted:It does, but he said Metro not MR. Judging by the capillary stem on the back of that feed it might be an MR though, in which case there's something other than "the wrong converter" at play in it not drawing ink. The cracked nipple on the converter probably isn't helping. Even just being out of round tends to cause issues — a split like that'll probably prevent it from making vacuum enough to pull up ink. Probably would work if you put the converter alone in a bottle, but then it'd just leak ink into the barrel instead. Probably — I don't know offhand exactly how the feed fits into the c/c.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:09
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howe_sam posted:Are all Sailor converters cheap pieces of junk that are easily accidentally disassembled, or did I just get a bad one? It seems those are normal twist-type converters. They're meant to come apart, yes. It's helpful for cleaning, because if you aren't cleaning the pen, you probably aren't turning any part of the converter in the direction you'd need to in order to disassemble it. That said, it's pretty helpful to always grasp converters by the clear bit, so you don't accidentally unscrew the whole thing while you're loving around with it.
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Oct 9, 2015 06:25
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unicorn dreams posted:I like the suggestion about getting sample sizes. Also just read that you can convert the Preppys into eyedrop pens and do without the cartridges?! The only time I bought ink in a store in NYC was a few years ago (and that one's dead, now), but I think their prices were about the same as online (plus the various levels of tax you'd pay in a store in NYC vs. online from VA or wherever. If you really want to check, the one B&M fountain pen shop that comes to mind is Fountain Pen Hospital, although I've seen people mention that you can find [Japanese] pens and inks at Kinokunya (it's a bookstore with a stationer's attached see here.) Buying ink from Goulet is a nice thing, because they overpackage things — so you won't say, find a half-cracked cap like the one time I ordered ink from Amazon. If you want really basic ink, sometimes a Staples or Office Max might have some ink, but that's more like "Maybe some waterman cartridges, a bottle of quink in blue or black." Another option might be art supply stores, but that's also something of a crapshoot. Keetron posted:Do not forget to argue about it with strangers on the internet. Just look up how many blue-blacks there are and everyone has a different favorite. Would be much simpler if everyone would agree that Sailor blueblack is the best blueblack. Speaking of Quink, the best blue-black is absolutely Parker's Blue-Black, because it is backwards and dries blue. vvv Having recently bought some Noodler's Aircorps Blue-Black, I can no longer even call the color it dries "really really light teal." Then again, different sorts of paper absolutely change the hue — lovely copy paper is noticeably bluer (or at least more saturated and overall darker) than an almost-decent staples notebook. Zenostein fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 22:59
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That sounds scary but adventurous.
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Speaking of refilling stuff, anyone refill varsities? I did yesterday, but it sorta dries up after a couple of pages (although writing with the opposite side of the nib seems to magically fix it). So I'm wondering if it's just a thing that happens when you refill a varsity with regular fountain ink, or if it's maybe an issue with the ink in particular I used (a mix of Noodler's Red-Black and Dostoevski). As an aside, that was absurdly easy to refill, aside from how much of a pain it was to get the remaining ink out of that funky wick-feed the Varsities have. Glad I found an empty one on my desk, I guess.
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Dec 12, 2015 23:42
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I got a Prera in Fine and it is everything I have ever wanted out of a Fine nib! Plus it's just about the same size as my Pelikan M2xx, so it's just about useable unposted. Not that posting it is a problem — it posts nice and securely, and the way the capband is constructed, I'm not terribly concerned about it cracking or anything. (Colors seem slightly desaturated in the scan, but I can't really be bothered to fiddle with them — PdL is a bit darker, and the Varsity's less red and more lavender in person, I think)  Baron Fuzzlewhack posted:After playing with Goulet's Ink Drop for most of a year, Diamine has come out on top as my favorite. To that end, the Syrah is the only full bottle of ink I've actually purchased! The Lamy feeds thing, if I remember correctly, was mostly for pens ca. 2008, and also largely — but probably not entirely — Baystate Blue related. Of course, the only not-funny-looking blue-blacks I use are Noodler's (and the Quink that dries blue, green, or somewhere in-between, depending on moon phase), so while I will say that Contract/Legal Blue/Legal Lapis are nice (and bulletproof!), that mightn't help. I've had plenty of joy using J. Herbin's inks in my Safari, so one of their blues or blacks will probably do you right. I also rather like this Pilot Black — I have a bottle, but haven't opened it yet. However, the cartridge ink (which I assume is the same) is maybe kinda grey-ish, but it's also black-black, not blue-ish or purple-ish or whatever. I've also used Quink Black (cartridges, again) and it was a perfectly good Black ink — it might've even been somewhat water-resistant. I think that the blackest-black, Noodler's aside, is usually Aurora, if that's something you'd want to try out.
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Dec 28, 2015 02:39
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I decided that since my Safari had finally gotten empty, I should probably use a different ink in it, rather than the Poussière de Lune which I've been feeding it for like, five years. In so doing, I have decided that the Lamy converter is basically the best twist converter — especially when you want to do a really thorough flush for a pen. Probably because of how much length they have free in the pen's body, the actual twist knob is comically long, and instead of being knurled like most are, it's got two flat sides. That's way easier to keep twisting when your hands are wet. Plus, despite being 8 years old, it's still smooth as hell, so that certainly helped. It was a helluva lot easier than trying to flush out my Platinum, at the least. Plus, there's no way to actually unscrew the whole drat converter — the little pegs keep it from rotating in the pen, and the actual plunger mechanism is a press-fit into the converter body. Well, that'd be great, except obviously after years of use, there's ink behind the plunger. It's kinda a pain in the rear end to actually properly disassemble the whole thing, which is great until you want to clean up those few drops of ink that migrated. Really, I wish more twist-converters used the same knob style as the Lamy. That and the little pegs solve my only real issues with the drat things. Too bad the little pegs wouldn't really work with a lot of pens, since then the section would have to protrude even further into the body than just the threads do.
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Jan 9, 2016 04:05
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I'm trying to own it as my own original contribution, but yeah. There was some ink left, so I was able to try them for a little bit. However, I had made quite a mess with that. I fixed it in the utility sink while wearing some latex gloves, washed and wiped everything down, but there's some stray ink here and there. I'm assuming it's from inside the cap during all this goofiness. I dearly hope you at least took a picture before fixing it. I'd love to see how, exactly, you jammed that in. mikeycp posted:So I decided that I hate the squeezy converter that comes with the Metro and went and ordered a CON-50. Everybody loves Iroshizuku, so you'll probably like it just fine. It'll probably be a bit less feathery than the Noodler's, just because Noodler's inks tend to be a bit more lubricated than a lot of other inks. But I don't think you'll see a huge difference, really. Maybe a little bit scratchier-sounding, if it's that much drier?
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Jan 22, 2016 22:54
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have no basis for fountain pens in real life. These Pilot Metros were the first fountain pens I've ever even picked up. So I see the diagram about shoving the top into the cartridge and just think, "Well, there we go." Most cartridges have a little plastic ball in them to serve as an agitator. Pilot's don't — they do retain the little plastic plug that seals an unopened cartridge, but I'm not entirely sure it serves as an agitator.   I'm not entirely sure just jamming it on would make the little disk fall out, really. Ignore how yellowed the cartridge is, I had it laying around for nearly two years. I mean, if the edges of the cartridge are ragged as gently caress, or obviously out of round (it sounds like yours is, if it leaked all over the place), then yeah, it's probably dead. As an aside, I now understand why a Metro'd come with a cleaning converter. The feed's upper end (on this prera, and I assume other Pilots) is entirely different from pretty much any other c/c pen I've seen. Good thing I had actually bought a converter to go with.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:53
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kongurous posted:I know dick-all about fountain pens, and can't figure out how to identify this one that was gifted to me. It has Montblanc trappings - it has the Montblanc star on the cap, on a ring near the top of the cap it says "Made in Germany" in very fine lettering, and it says Montblanc along a ring near the bottom of the cap, but looking at Montblanc's site, I don't see anything like this pen for sale. I've tried to disassemble it but none of the parts on it seem to be removable. Only the cap comes off, and it does so by pulling on it rather than unscrewing it. The cap is not threaded for screwing, nor is the body of the pen. http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/207921-montblanc-meisterstuck-4810-14k-585-fountain-pen/ Based on this, that's a montblanc 144. So here's a possibly-helpful review of one: http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/221125-montblanc-144-classique/ Oh, I see you got it open, so there's that. That appears to be a cartridge, and apparently it takes regular international cartridges. It'll also take regular international converters, probably. In any event, you should be able to pull it out. Then you can use a syringe or a pipette or something and refill it. But first, from your pictures, that nib looks kinda grimy, as if a bunch of ink has dried in it. So maybe let that sit in a cup of warm water for a few hours first? It could probably use a nice soak.
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Jan 24, 2016 00:03
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No, that should be fine. Just make sure you rinse it throughly before attempting to use it. God knows I've left pens in cups of water for far longer. Maybe try this, if it is quite stuck. You could also probably try gently scrubbing it with an old soft toothbrush or something. But what you really want is one of those bulb syringes, like you use on little kid's noses. Fill that with water, stick it in the back of the pen where the cartridge was, and squirt water through. If there was a ton of ink dried on the nib like that, it's probably in the feed (the black bit on the bottom of the nib) too, and that'll be difficult to get out without a converter or a bulb pushing water through it. But soaking it for a nice long while's a good start.
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Jan 24, 2016 03:37
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I'd say pelikan because I like my baby's first proper pelikan (a m215, gently caress knows what they call them now — everything had names last I checked), but it's also something of a firehose, comparatively. But I also don't have a delta, so there's that.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:56
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Yeah, that's fine. Also, if you're using cartridges and don't intend to just use the one color, you probably want one. Should be able to find one at a drugstore or whatever. I like Nathan's crazy ramblings almost as much as I like the label art. It takes a very uninteresting (but easy to store!) bottle and makes it almost pleasant to look at! Too bad you probably shouldn't leave ink bottles laying out on a desk, though.
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Jan 26, 2016 22:15
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If you like your safari well enough, get another safari in a silly color and an italic point. Instant fun. As a bonus, because of the grip you probably won't have issues with the pen rotating out of the angle an italic wants! Probably, I don't actually have one. Does it actually work out that way?
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Jan 27, 2016 04:38
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I think my Pilot Metro shenanigans have settled down, so I can ask about the ink here. It looks like whatever I'm doing, what I'm writing is coming out more faded. I thought I screwed up installing the black cartridge I'm using. Namely, I thought I did not dry it enough, and the ink get diluted by some water. However, even the blue that the pro in the store installed is less bold than what I am used to from my favorite old gel pens. Is this about right for Pilot ink? Is it time I got some Noodler's Tinfoil ink and Pelikan 4001?  This is Pilot Black. The top bit's in a Pilot Fine, the noticeably heavier line's a Pelikan Fine, the bit that says Sheaffer is a ballpoint that might actually be blue, and don't worry about the red. The black is clearly black, but it's hardly the darkest black I've ever seen, and it's quite a bit lighter out of a finer point. I imagine Pilot's blue is much the same. There are, of course, way more saturated inks if that's what you're after. You'll have to have a look at fountainpennetwork's ink reviews section: they have individual reviews and then reviews that compare groups — that's probably what you want, if you're looking for a properly bright blue. Most first party colors aren't amazingly saturated, because they're meant to play nice, with certain exceptions: Aurora's Black is really goddamn black, and people seem to really like Waterman's Florida Blue (I think that's the blue they like, at any rate). The comedy option, of course, is "Buy Baystate Blue, and enjoy turning everything you own Blue forever." That said, if you don't dry a pen completely the ink'll come out faded, but that'll only last for like, a page at most, depending on how much water was still in the feed. I'm glad you Ecos have not sprung apart or anything. But from some of the pictures I've seen, is the octagonal piston always exposed if it's unposted? I mean, my Pelikan's like that, but that's a smooth knob and it seems to me that something with flat surfaces would be easier to accidentally rotate if you tossed it in a crowded pocket or something. God knows I've had screwoff caps come undone in a pocket like that. Is it just a non-issue?
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Jan 28, 2016 22:50
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The easiest would be a dip pen, but the color won't match up. You really want a converter you can fill like a quarter of the way or so.grack posted:The industry is full of copies. Often of copies, of copies, of copies, of copies etc. Isn't the story for the Hero 616 less "obvious copy" and more "literally Parker's tooling from after nationalization?"
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Jan 31, 2016 07:22
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JEBOman posted:On an unrelated note, does anyone know any good resources for improving handwriting/penmanship? IAMPETH is generally the go-to, although they're mostly focused on copperplate/engravers script and that sort of thing. For what it's worth, the general spencerian/copperplate/&c. forms are fairly close to "regular" cursive, only without a flexible pen you won't get all the dramatic lines. But what you probably want is good ol' Business Penmanship or Palmer. And at any rate, the takeaway is still going to be "practice a lot," and probably "slow down and pay attention to what you're writing." Of course, that's assuming you already have a good idea of what the letterforms are meant to look like. FPN used to have some posts stickied with links to instruction books and the like, but they seem to have vanished. But if you have the time, wading through various "help I write like a four-year-old" posts will probably eventually turn up some links that'll help. Solumin posted:Interesting, my Borealis Black doesn't stink at all. Maybe you had a different formulation or just a bad batch...? A lot of Noodler's inks do have some sort of smell, but it's more the sort of thing you notice if you've got your face in the bottle or like two inches from still-wet ink. Either way, it's not really something you're terribly likely to notice unless you're looking for it or sticking your nose to the paper.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:11
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You'll find ink all over the section and in the cap. Also, the ink in the cap'll seep through the band for the clip, so don't think it'll stay contained for terribly long. Keep tissues with you, maybe.
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Feb 6, 2016 23:56
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I actually have some staples filler paper (in the weird-rear end 8x10.5" size) that works astonishingly well with fountain pen inks. Like, "dip pen with noodler's and garbage pen control so it takes a half-hour to dry but still doesn't bleed through" astonishingly well. It still shows through a bit, like if I really lay into it with a brush pen (or if I hold a sheet up to the light), but its otherwise weirdly well-behaved. Doesn't feather terribly much under that ridiculous inkload either. It might be from a few years back, when people were recommending staples' various comp notebooks (particularly the bagasse ones) as being cheap and fountain-pen friendly. It's very nice for my stray thoughts or whatever, aside from a huge pile of looseleaf being a less than neat storage format.
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Feb 8, 2016 03:02
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:How can I rapidly and efficiently test a bunch of ink samples with a pilot metro, or with a Hero 616 for that matter? I figured I'd just try them with the Heroes, but they have a hard time slurping up so little ink. I got a syringe, so I was figuring as soon as I finish off my first Metro cartridge, I'll just start injecting the samples into them. Just dip it. The color'll be close enough to if it had come out of a converter, and if you saturate the feed well enough, you'll have about a page of ink there to play with (probably). This'll work far better with the metro than the heroes, incidentally. So just get the whole nib in the ink, then maybe run the top of the nib/back of the feed on the side of the vial. Otherwise, you'll probably end up with a gross blot instead of whatever you meant to write. Obviously, if you do this, you don't really want to try and dry everything off nicely with a tissue or whatever, since that'll mostly defeat the purpose.
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Feb 13, 2016 22:23
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Magnus Praeda posted:America seems to have switched to a #2 pencil-or-bust mentality for at least grade school, probably because of our hard-on for standardized testing. That's weird. Crayons and markers aside, we had to use pencils through third grade, presumably because they're: a) actually erasable, b) cheap, c) low maintenance. By 4th grade, we were allowed to use "erasable pens." These are not particularly erasable, but obviously more-so than a regular ballpoint pen. After grade school, nobody really cared what you wrote with, so long as it wasn't like, yellow. Of course, by 2000ish, everything was expected to be typed, so throughout highschool absolutely nobody cared what you wrote with, since they probably weren't going to see it anyway. Although I do remember my school handbook having guidelines for paper submissions. They required cursive or typewriting, and I'm pretty sure that no teacher would've accepted a handwritten essay by that point anyway. Rocko Bonaparte posted:Actually, I remember a lot of exploded pens, and I couldn't figure out how you do that with a cheap-rear end roller ball. Were they all using grown-up pens and I never realized it? Bending a ballpoint pen a bunch is a pretty good way to get the drat thing to explode. Nobody treats a lovely papermate with any sort of decency, so yes of course they'll explode after a few months crammed in a backpack under like 20lb. of textbooks and left next to the heater. Presumably rollerballs/gel pens would have the same issues, except they tend to have sturdier bodies than a papermate — even those dirt-common bic crystals do, really. I feel like student fountain pens, so far as America is concerned, went away around the same time as dip pens at the post office, because those disposable pens are mostly cleaner, absolutely cheaper, and you won't need to refill them ever, much less every couple of days.
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Feb 20, 2016 01:43
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Shake it better? Or shake it period, if you haven't been and it's been sitting for a while.
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Feb 20, 2016 22:46
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I was reading about flow issues with Noodler's ink, and that seems to confirm what I see. I have been sticking to finer nibs. I won't really know for sure until I start trying some of the Diamine samples I got. I had red-black flow poorly in a fine prera, but then the herbin I put in also wasn't flowing right until I took out the nib and feed, so I'm not sure blaming the ink would be quite right. It's worked fine in everything else I've tried it in (western fines, though). mikeycp posted:I didn't know you needed to shake it, so that's likely the problem. I guess i'll clean it out and refill it, after shaking. After a while the ink sorta settles in the bottle. If it's empty enough, flipping the bottle over and holding it up to a light'll show a bunch of sediment at the bottom. So long as it isn't like, slime or mold, that's fine — just shake it (carefully) to mix it back up (and then be patient as you wait ages for all the little bubbles to go away). I mean, if it's just suddenly started happening to this pen/ink combo, that's a pretty good place to start troubleshooting, at the least. VVV Every ink. But especially weird/heavily pigmented stuff, like Herbin's Anniversary inks, or Diamine's shimmer inks. Those tend to settle faster, I think. Zenostein fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 20, 2016 |
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Feb 20, 2016 23:09
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terrible depths indeed.
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May 12, 2016 05:18
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It looks a bit like they use the same sort of feed as the Varsities and V-n use. It's been ages since I've had a new varsity, but I did refill one ages ago and it look a while for the feed to get saturated well enough to write. Not that it really helps now, but putting it point-down (with the cap on, of course) in a cup or whatever for a half-hour ought to get it to work just fine. That's just kinda how it goes with an empty system and a new cartridge — ordinarily you'd fill the pen through the nib, so the feed wouldn't be dry, and if you've used the pen before, it'll also probably not be bone dry (unless you were switching colors and cleaned it out properly).
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Jun 23, 2016 01:22
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Noodler's Black Swan in English Roses is pretty nice. It's sorta a dusty pink. I also have a 2d formula (gold-free) Rouge Hematite which is a pretty striking red. (Also a very prone to gumming up if left unattended for a day or so red). Herbin doesn't really do “out there” colors, assuming your list is what you'd consider normal, but "the jewel of inks" is pretty accurate — even good ol' dusty-purple-grey Poussière de Lune is kinda gem-like. (That's also a favorite, by the way). I also remember hearing very nice things about the Caren d'Asche colors before they were discontinued and then started up again: anyone have an opinion on the newer ones?
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Jun 26, 2016 19:59
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I don't because I'm a horrible artist, but plenty of people use various fountain pens for sketching and the like. I think Goulet had a thing about using them for sketching fairly recently, and there should be a section on JetPens for that sort of thing too. Assuming your pen's in proper working order and isn't empty, it should be fine in terms of flow, although that's kinda difficult to answer generally — plenty of feeds will keep up just fine if you are jotting down a shopping list, but if you start copying a passage from a book in cursive, you'll suddenly find that the flow's died in a half-page because more ink's gone out than air in. But in general, it'll be fine unless you're dead-set on coloring an entire sheet of paper blue in one go or something insane like that. As for ink, if it's dried and you went over it with another pen in a different color, your first layer will probably stay put, but in general fountain pen inks won't hold up to a waterbrush or whatever, no. That said, Platinum's Carbon Black ink is apparently used in certain brush pens, and that will (once dry, of course) generally stay put, even if you were to break out your watercolors on top of it. It is a fountain pen ink, although you'd have to be careful to actually clean out your pens if you're going to not be using it for a while once its empty, and probably be twice as thorough clearing it out to change inks as you would normally. Beyond that, as taqueso said, there are various waterproof inks, and what'll stay behind vs. what'll get washed off depends entirely on the ink. That's the sort of thing you'd find in an ink review on, for example, fountainpennetwork, although usually what's being tested there is more "I submerged this paper in water," not "I went over this with a marker" or something. This guy's wordpress has a bunch of ink reviews that might be of use, though. He reviews various inks for their interactions with water and bleach, mostly with a focus towards using them for artistic purposes, rather than writing. It's pretty cool stuff, really. e. Also, a pretty major factor as to how your ink's going to behave (and probably how well or for how long (continuously)) your pen will flow is the paper you use; but I'm sure you can find recommendations for that. Zenostein fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 03:07
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Pixelante posted:Maybe when Canada Post is off strike I'll send one of you pen dorks some art paper samples to test. I have several kinds of marker paper for different things, and most of it is designed to prevent feathering and smearing of inks. Manga isn't my thing, but that fad has really helped improve availability of quality paper. Volunteers? All I'd want in return would be reviews with a couple kinds of ink or whatever seems relevant. They're water-based, but unless it's explicitly "fountain pen ink," you probably do not want to put it in a fountain pen. All those acrylic inks, for example, probably should not go into a fountain pen. They'd be perfectly fine for a dip pen, and apparently rapidographs and the like, but that'll almost certainly clog up the feed of a fountain pen (or anything with a similar feed, like the various small-production pens that use g-nibs and the such). Alternatively, be this guy  (I don't think I ever noticed before, but if he's gonna use a quill, he could use something more interesting than Quink. At least one of those silly metallic speedball inks…) KKKLIP ART posted:Is Goulet still the go-to place to get Noodlers ink? I want some Heart of Darkness, unless there is a blacker black that I should be looking at. I feel like goulet might have the largest selection, but anywhere that isn't some random guy on amazon'll probably package the ink well enough to prevent any broken caps or bottles. As for other blacks, I usually see people suggest Aurora Black, if you don't want Noodler's. I like my Pilot Black, but it's not super dark or saturated; it's just black (rather than sorta violet or blue or whatever).
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Jul 7, 2016 03:13
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"A feather with a nib pressed into it" doesn't roll off the tongue quite as well. The really ballsy thing is using that nonsense, plus quink, on what appears to be a test. That poo poo's gonna bleed and feather like a motherfucker. Plus the left-handed bit, but that's an entirely different sort of issue, isn't it? Pixelante posted:I made one of those in the medieval class. Workable but tedious. Made a lovely cat toy. Much like this, as a matter of fact. Besides using less feathery paper, write bigger. It's like how I have to write noticably larger with my pelikan if I don't want a, e, and o to be indistinguishable (it is probably the least-fine Fine I've ever seen, and I'm betting that Bic's marked as a M).
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Jul 8, 2016 02:46
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grack posted:Credit where credit is due: Noodler's is very good at finding new and inventive ways to send me pens that don't work. This time it was a feed that was literally set twisted. That's just them reminding and strongly encouraging you to configure the nib and feed to suit your needs, rather than blindly trust whatever put it together. It's very considerate.
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Jul 9, 2016 00:41
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