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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:I followed the antenna wire to the trunk where it makes a U turn into the rear passenger pillar and goes upward. This thing is on my roof, is this my antenna mount? I've never seen one so wide before, if it is what kind of antenna can I use for my radio? That is an NMO mount. There are lots of antennas available for NMO, but chances are high that things ends up with some kind of PL259 or SMA connector and not what you will want/need for an AM/FM radio as they are typically used for 2-ways and scanners.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Depending on how you look at it, Ford either used the world's worst supplier of 194 bulbs for a long time I vote for this one. My '97 F150 started losing bulbs somewhere right around the end of it's 3-year warranty. That's just not an acceptable lifespan. And it's really, really typical for FoMoCo products I've seen since the mid-90s.
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Mar 12, 2013 17:51
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Elephanthead posted:I don't think cop cars fall under epa testing requirements. Do you even have a cat? What? Neither "Coil Over Plug" or "Police" makes any sense in this context.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:17
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T1g4h posted:Hmm. Could be. It's an old county car that belonged to one of the deputies that patrolled the town I grew up in, so lord knows how they fitted it. Hell, they left the radio gear in the trunk when they sold it to me If you bought it recently the radio gear was left because it is worth less than nothing. Everyone had to switch to narrow band a few years back due to an FCC ruling. The old radios are basically of no value anymore as most of them are too expensive to convert to either naroow band or to usage on a band that doesn't require narrow band (like for business mobile or amateur use). These FCC rulings are basically Motorola's sales channel.
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Mar 15, 2013 14:57
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T1g4h posted:If by "worth nothing" you mean "worth $350 when sold on eBay" Good on you! That's real money. It must have been newer/more useful than a lot of what one would typically find abandoned in them.
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Mar 15, 2013 21:17
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T1g4h posted:Heh, i'm clueless about radios, but this is what it was: Oh.....that's a relatively new radio. I was NOT expecting something like that to have been left behind. Yeah, that makes for a nice 110 watt transmitter around 450-482 Mhz. Expensive to program, but as kastein said some amateur radio nerds are all about their batwings so they already have the poo poo they need to program them. They are absolutely built like tanks. There's really no other place a radio like that could be used, as to my knowledge all business and public service traffic on the band split that radio has needs to be narrow band now (and that radio can't do it).
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Mar 16, 2013 23:09
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blugu64 posted:EDIT: Child seat anchor? You got it.
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Mar 18, 2013 15:56
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kastein posted:If it was a panhard rod in the back before, there's a chance that the panhard rod was considered stronger, and the watts linkage results in a better ride but isn't as durable / capable of handling side loads. So the towing rating got reduced. I've heard stories of braking the studs on the watts linkage. I've also heard  the NHTSA was lobbied to lower the maximum allowable tow rating on sedans so the car companies would sell more trucks. I just spent 15 minutes searching for any real evidence of this and couldn't find it. It's more likely Ford just went and lowered entirely on their own so they could sell more high margin vehicles.
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Apr 20, 2013 23:05
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wolrah posted:Was the Explorer tire thing going yet in '96? I don't think that was for another few years, but if that had started I could see why Ford might have backed off any of their primarily passenger vehicles. That was '98. I had one and got a set of free tires. Never had any problems because I kept them aired up properly and my wife didn't think the saw driving a go-kart when she had it.
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Apr 21, 2013 17:36
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lampey posted:Is there a significant difference between 255/45/18 and 235/50/18? Almost nothing. .1" radius. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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Apr 23, 2013 02:24
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Oh, yeah...I almost forgot to start doing "before" pic dumps to this thread of cop cars. I think this is the impala (sorry) but I'll get the CV at some point. Just as soon as one of the idiots un-cop-proofs the radio or laptop in it (which will be soon, as it's a pool car). Just to give you guys some whacker inspiration.
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May 17, 2013 04:32
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Wow... a Motorola Radio. That's a $6,000 trunking radio. I'm pretty sure someone at the county is retiring on Motorola kick backs, as they buy new poo poo constantly. It seems almost like it's on purpose. Then the wave effect is that their new poo poo isn't compatible with the old poo poo so every police department and fire company in the county ends up with a $50,000 to $200,000 bill to replace all their equipment. Hopefully this newest narrow band stuff will be around for a while. Most fir companies have barely paid off their loans for the last batch of radios, which now have basically no commercial value whatsoever as they are no good for business or emergency band radio and not worth the trouble for amateur radio. They are essentially garbage at this point. Have I mentioned that this system still doesn't work as well as our original VHF low radios that had been in operation for so long some of them had tubes? I can't get to the county if I'm in a basement most times, and I can't scan between fireground (analog) channels and the rest of the digital trunking channels as I used to, so now every officer ends up carrying two portables and has two mobiles in their trucks. Sorry for the derail. I was just dealing with this poo poo yesterday. The county is bitching that the MDT software I'm using is outdated yet haven't sent me whatever version it is that they want me to use.
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May 17, 2013 16:48
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kastein posted:That sounds like a blown clockspring to me. Definitely. Should be easy to trace out with a multimeter. I assume the SRS light is ablaze as well. If not, it will be soon. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 22:36
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cbx posted:Ugh. I got horrible news today. I went to the repair shop to get my A/C checked. Was told that the compressor is blown out. In order to fully replace it, they'd need to replace everything including the compressor, and it would cost me around $725-$750. Does this sound accurate to you guys? I really don't have the money to replace it, but this summer heat is killing me in a black car. That doesn't sound like much of a diagnosis. I have a hard time believing you need "a new everything" because of a bad compressor, even if it did spew black death throughout the system. At the most you need 3 parts and various seals as well as a flush. Sounds like you went to a shop that happens to have an AC machine and not a shop that knows AC.
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Jul 18, 2013 16:23
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cbx posted:If I could remember exactly what they told me I'd need, I'd say it here. I was hungry and my memory isn't the best when I'm hungry. They said the individual parts, but all I remember is that they said some sort of tube, something else, and the compressor. And orifice tube, an accumulator and the compressor. That is correct for a compressor the spewed its guts. That's nowhere even close to "everything". An orifice tube is like $3. An accumulator is around $50. The expensive part is the compressor and the labor to flush the system, reassemble, vac and fill.
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Jul 19, 2013 21:54
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Speed bleeders are junk for exactly this reason. You're better off buying/building a pressure bleeder.
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Aug 5, 2013 00:52
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Winson_Paine posted:I noticed the owner's manual in mine suggested not putting lights in front of the grill because it would gently caress with cooling; is this actually a thing then or is that just bullshit? Sure, it's going to diminish the cooling capacity any time you impede airflow through the grill. That being said, it's so common to see lights, speaker horns, and/or opticoms up there on police cars that if it really were an issue it would be well known.
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Sep 10, 2013 16:18
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I have had only one miss with rockauto.... but I wasnt sure if it was them or me. They even refund cores in a reasonable timeframe, which I never expected (I've bought a few things with cores worth enough to send back, mostly AC compressors).
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Sep 13, 2013 01:04
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some texas redneck posted:I've never bought anything that needed a core from them, how does that work? Do they send return shipping labels? No, that would be too easy. But for something expensive enough it's worth the shipping. I don't know brake calipers would be on that list, but a $75 core on an AC compressor sure is.
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Sep 13, 2013 15:50
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Winson_Paine posted:Pulled off the dash panels to get to the lights on the cluster, when I pulled off the center panel (with the trunk release and rear defrost) the engine light came on and stayed on. I am sorta hoping I tripped something in the process of removing the panels, anything obvious spring to mind? You mean the MIL/Check engine light? How would you know? Were you doing this with the car started? Was the light even working before (it should turn on for a short time when you turn the car on) or did you just jar it back into working?
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Sep 19, 2013 22:40
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Winson_Paine posted:everything checked except for a diagnostic cycle which would have to run again since I had disconnected the battery. Well, if by that you mean the I/M monitors aren't all in a ready state you should be expecting a stored code in the next hundred miles or less. Whether that turns on your MIL or not is anyone guess, as it appears to be a intermittent problem with the bulb or wiring. Not to poo poo on your parade, but understand that if the I/M monitors aren't set it means the bulk of the "check engine codes" (DTCs) that are likely to be set won't be yet and you should have is scanned again to figure out what is wrong. And it's obviously something, as someone went through the trouble of scumbagging the SRS light out of the dash. I can guarantee you that's not all they did to hide problems.
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Sep 20, 2013 02:10
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Pumpkin_Paine posted:So I was cleaning the back of my CVPI and found this: That is a "PL-259" connector attached to coax. It's for an antenna which may or may not still be on the car (or at least the antenna base).
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Oct 10, 2013 19:04
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Pumpkin_Paine posted:Found it, the lug for it is through the rear windshield. Maybe I should get my CB on. Does it looks like this?  That's the most common thin you'll find. It's call an NMO mount. With that information you should be able to find whatever correct band NMO mount antenna you'll need for whatever you want to hook up to it (CB, scanner, etc).
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Oct 10, 2013 21:18
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"Most" aren't, because NMO is more of a "real radio" mounting system, but there are plenty of $20-$50 options that are likely to be worlds better than a fiberglass whip. The antenna you chose is an 11 meter 1/4 wave beast and yeah....it's gonna bend a lip mount. Most of them aren't so bulky and even the one you chose shouldn't bend a properly installed drill through NMO mount.
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Oct 11, 2013 02:02
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wolrah posted:Mine's a drilled mount, its just a big whip. That's the deal with CB though, anything smaller just isn't great. Note that I said properly installed. I'm going to guess yours was drilled through the sheet metal and mounted with no backer to spread the load. Anything with more than a couple of feet in the wind needs to have some manner of metal backing sandwiched to the sheet metal, preferably attached to the inside sheet metal fram of the trunk or whatever other panel it's on. You'll find that good installers do this on all trunk and roof mount antennas. And you'll also find that most installers that get these municipal contracts are hack jobs.
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Oct 11, 2013 16:22
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Pumpkin_Paine posted:It looks like the cable goes to the radio, not the antenna. Dis here is the mount, note it has the other end of that cable plugged in: That's just a lovely glass mount antenna base. Throw it out. You can remove it from the glass with a razor blade.
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Oct 29, 2013 17:34
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KozmoNaut posted:There's no hole with a glass mount antenna, it's all inductive yo. Exactly. Which is also why they are so lovely as doing their job.
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Oct 29, 2013 20:44
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kastein posted:All proper 6 cylinder engines have them in a line not a vee Dem's fightin' words. Unless you have an exception in there for an air cooled flat 6. 
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Dec 9, 2013 05:58
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SouthLAnd posted:I changed the trans fluid in one of my cars years ago by dropping the pan, changing the filter and topping it off back to a normal level. Then I went even farther and unhooked the cooler lines. With the car running I had one bucket collect the discharge and another with clean fluid that the car sucked up. Yeah, that major problem with that plan is that auto boxes won't "suck" fluid up from a bucket. This is why the passive fluch machine exists.
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Jan 31, 2014 09:20
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Delivery McGee posted:usually the horn button activates the lightbar and/or siren You break the horn wire and run it through the siren. When the siren is off/in normal mode it simply passes the current through and the horn honks. When you turn the siren on it can, depending on model, be used as an electronic air horn, a "whoop whoop", or to rotate through the siren tones. Some do some other stuff too. I've never seen them hooked up to a light bar. But yes, the problem then becomes the horn doesn't work when you remove the siren control box. And while having it turn on the dome light is hilarious, it's not really much of a surprise since the aftermarket dome lights you'll typically find are part of that bundle of wires left over once the console/radios/switch boxes are pulled. In fact, other than large power/grounds, coax antenna leads, and possibly some odd looking stuff that would likely be taken (trunk mount radio separation cables, laptop power supplies) there shouldn't be much at all left in there (assuming the lights were also pulled). I wouldn't necessarily blame it on an inept city mechanic, as there would be no reason to hook together three wires instead of two. In fact, I'd say it was a hilarious city mechanic. And frankly sounds like something I would (will in the future) do.
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Aug 25, 2014 16:18
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Sunshine Mix posted:So this is kind of dumb, but one of the corner light covers just...fell off...of my Marauder. Does it just pop back on? I tried to manhandle it back on in the rain but was close to cracking, so I held off. No. It's part of the corner light assembly IIRC. So basically it became un-plastic-welded from the back. Clean it up and use a nice thin bead of superglue all around it. You may want to try to silicone seal it afterwards if you find you are picking up moisture inside.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:43
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