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TATPants posted:You actually made glass honing rods? From raw silica and other stuff? If so, I would really like to see your oven setup Can't you just buy the premade borosilicate rod and have someone cut it down to size?
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Jul 31, 2013 05:49
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Mineral oil from the pharmacy. Cheap, readily available, food safe. Edit: An Accusharp? Please don't use that thing if you actually care about the knives. Scott808 fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 06:46
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martinlutherbling posted:Can anyone recommend some decent knife skills videos on youtube? Most of the ones I've found are intended for total beginners (not that I'm an expert, but I don't need to be told not to hold my fingers under the blade), and generally focus on rock chopping with Western style blades. I feel the urge to share these... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOtPn-N8HlM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InsFtTVMX1o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arOHmHYhEaY More seriously, Rick Theory's channel has some from inside a restaurant https://www.youtube.com/user/PCCkitchen And Japanese knife skill videos are always fun https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eC7EUa-S_qs
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Jul 14, 2014 09:57
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martinlutherbling posted:Can anyone recommend some decent knife skills videos on youtube? Most of the ones I've found are intended for total beginners (not that I'm an expert, but I don't need to be told not to hold my fingers under the blade), and generally focus on rock chopping with Western style blades. I replied earlier, but I ran across these the other day. Might be helpful - http://stellaculinary.com/knife-skill-video-techniques-hd . If you want some comedy relief knife skill videos ExpertVillage has this series - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL653A5E7B994225FD
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Jul 31, 2014 07:03
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guppy posted:Gift shopping for someone who likes to cook but has little experience with knives, looking to replace her Cutco with a better chef's knife, probably 8". I am hoping to get her not to use one of the pull-through sharpeners, since she does own one, but I'm a little afraid to choose a Japanese knife in case she does use it and the angle is wrong. Should I be concerned about that? The problem with pull through sharpeners isn't the angle, it's that they gently caress up the edge because of the way they "sharpen" the blade.  Here's another picture of a carbide pull through sharpened edge.  Here's what a Chef's Choice electric sharpener looks like  Compare to a Wicked Edge system sharpened knife 
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Dec 1, 2014 05:31
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Can I just let off some steam here? I picked up a Tojiro DP parer from Amazon - 3 times, from 3 different sellers but Fulfilled By Amazon. My god the fit and finish on these is garbage, it's more what you'd expect from a bottom of the barrel made in China Wally World special. First one I don't remember much about - the out of the box edge was so dull I ran my thumb down the edge and nothing happened. Could not cut paper, at all; it would just slide along the length of the blade. The edge was so thick you could actually see it. I may have been better off if I just sharpened this one, but it was delivered via slow boat from China (ParcelPool) and to top it off, it was delivered late, so it went back. Second one was the worst of the three. A crooked and wonky looking blade with a blunted tip. Handle had gaps by the bolster, by the rivets, and along the spine. Edge was at least capable of slicing paper. Box was taped shut and the adhesive residue left behind was sticky like it was sitting on the shelf for a long, long time. Sent back. Third one has a weird ground down spot on the spine near the bolster, one relatively big gap on one side where the bolster and scales meet, but the primary blade grind is pretty good and it's relatively straight. This seller had the box wrapped up in cellophane so the Amazon UPC sticker wasn't stuck on the front of the box, which was a nice surprise. I know Tojiro has somewhat of a reputation for their dodgy fit and finish, but jeez, there's gotta be a limit to acceptable wabi sabi or whatever you want to call it.
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Jun 15, 2015 12:31
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revdrkevind posted:Wabi-sabi should call to mind impermanence and transience, although I see where you're going. I'm no expert on the intricacies of wabi sabi, but I always hear imperfection, or finding the beauty in imperfections, as part of it. Tojiro has had a reputation for dodgy fit and finish for a long time now. Why is Victorinox dodgy? Chef De Cuisinart posted:You're paying for the quality steel with Tojiro dude, pretty sure we've said that all throughout the thread. You get a great knife with rough F&F for less than 100bux. You want good F&F, get ready to spend $250+ Are you arguing for a quality blade or just quality steel? A quality blade with a not so great handle I can understand, but a poor blade just because it's a higher grade of steel than most mass market kitchen knives, sorry, that I don't buy into. I would argue that a "great knife" includes the handle. At the end of the day there are different things that people are going to find acceptable in terms of fit and finish - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3557177&pagenumber=13&perpage=40#post427881182 Chef De Cuisinart posted:It's kinda common with the DP series. This is why I buy from ck2g because Mark won't send those out. Honestly though, it's not that big a deal, you can fill it in yourself, and it's still an amazing knife for the price. In that conversation you said Mark from CKTG won't send out Tojiros with fit and finish issues, but reading reviews on his own store it's clear that he does. Does he only not send those out to customers who specifically ask that they not get knives with those flaws? I have other Tojiro knives that aren't nearly as bad as the paring knives. My Tojiro F-270 bread knife has tiny handle gaps that are visible if you hold them up to light. I have Tojiro gyutos with small gaps by the handle and bolster, and on my 270mm the tang is proud of the scales. But since it's on the butt of the handle it doesn't bother me. I've read opinions from others that they find a tang standing proud of the scales to be unacceptable at any price point. The choils are somewhat sharp and had burrs out of the box, so I took off the burrs and softened the edges. Again, stuff I have no issue with touching up. A crooked knife and a poor grind, though, are not for me.
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Jun 16, 2015 03:53
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The grind and the edge aren't the same thing. You can have, for example, a convex edge on a flat ground knife. To some degree, a freehand sharpened blade will have a convex edge because of your inability to hold the *exact* same angle as you sharpen.
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Jul 8, 2015 06:27
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ma i married a tuna posted:Did you set the angles right? The indicated angles on mine were off by a ridiculously large margin (what it called 20 was actually 35). For the rest, you make sure that with finer stones you also finish with less pressure, and scrub out the built-up metal filing. That should get you to a rough shaving edge at least. After that, stropping is the quickest way to improve your edge further. The angle is going to differ from knife to knife anyway, because the thickness and heights of blades are going to vary. Pikey posted:Can anybody recommend a fairly cheap but good quality lapping plate to maintain stones? I just got a shapton glass 4000 grit stone and put a little gouge in it in my first session because I was used to using more pressure Atomas seem to be the most popular flattening plate. Not super cheap, but not holy cow expensive, either. The Atoma plates are supposed to suffer from less sticktion and less prone to diamond pull out than DMTs, the regular ones at least. DMT does make that really big plate made especially for lapping, with what they call Diamond Hardcoat Technology, which I guess is supposed to resist pull out. And it's certified flat to +/- 0.0005”. Quite pricey, though. The other nice thing about Atomas is they sell replacement diamond pads, so you can replace a worn pad to the same base you already have. You can also buy a different grit pad and make a double sided Atoma. If you want really cheap people use stuff like cinder block, sometimes with silicon carbide powder. Or as Karia mentioned, something like a granite plate/glass and sandpaper. Or a plate and drywall screen. Real cheap is a level concrete sidewalk. But higher grit stones do benefit from a higher grit flattener - or should I say edge finish off a higher grit stone benefits from a higher grit flattener.
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Aug 20, 2015 10:50
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Anthony Bourdain visits Bob Kramer's workshop on a show called Raw Craft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4x0f2b_0kn0
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Sep 3, 2015 11:17
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:I live in Japan and know nothing about knives. The wife and I have been using a CUTCO set that's 16 years old or so (from when I tried to sell the crap right after high school). From reading OP and some follow on posts, I see that people consider Japanese cooking knives to be high quality and they get exported all over the world. Can anyone give me recommendations on a brand or type of blades for general purpose cooking? Wife is vegetarian and cuts a lot of vegetables, while my son and I both enjoy meats and fish. I don't have any specific requirements or anything because I have no idea what I am supposed to be looking for. A gyuutou (牛刀) is the equivalent of a western chef's knife. Most common sizes are 210, 240, and 270mm but they come both smaller and larger. Santoku bouchou (三徳包丁), also called bunka bouchou ( 文化包丁), is an all purpose knife that is usually smaller and with a different blade shape. Nakiri (菜切り) is a double ground vegetable knife. Usuba (薄刃) is the traditional single ground vegetable knife. There is a blunt tip usuba which is similar in shape to the nakiri, but it also comes in a pointed tip version called kamagata usuba. If you want to break down whole fish, the traditional Japanese knife is the deba (出刃). It comes in a few different variations, but the "normal" one is a thick single ground blade around 6.5 to almost 8 inches long. Single ground knives will steer through food, and they require a different sharpening technique (compared to double ground knives) that I've only seen done properly freehand. I saw one video of a guy who claimed he could do it correctly on an Edge Pro and his brief demo looked idiotic and more difficult than doing it freehand - he was trying to move the knife and the stone simultaneously. If freehand sharpening is not an option then single ground knives should probably be avoided. Properly made single ground knives are also not cheap. The often recommended Tojiro DP line is quite inexpensive in America, and it's even more affordable in Japan. Tojiro and Mac make two very good serrated bread knives. The Tojiro is almost a clone of the Mac; a bit cheaper but arguably worse fit and finish. A small word of caution about the Tojiro DP - I've seen 4 of the gyuutous in person, three 270mm, and one 300mm, and they all have a low hanging heel with a short overgrind directly in front of it; one of the Amazon reviews has a picture of the hanging heel. I haven't tried to completely sharpen the overgrind out, all I did was flatten the low hanging heel out and then resharpen the edge, so I don't know if the overgrind is only in the edge bevel, or if it actually is in the primary grind. From feeling the blade and sighting down its length I think it's only in the edge, but I'm not 100% sure. Most people probably wouldn't even notice the overgrind, but the hanging heel can affect your cuts since it can prevent the blade from making full contact with the board.
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Sep 25, 2015 12:07
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Glockamole posted:Evidently you're not the only fan of the Tanaka Ginsan series; they're sold out in all three lengths. If I may ask, what is it about that knife that makes it such a good bargain? At a glance, Ginsan doesn't seem like a particularly special steel, and it has those rough edges. Is it just a really good HT and blade/edge geometry? AVeryLargeRadish posted:Ahhh, too bad, there were two in stock when I made the post. You can always sign up to have them shoot you an e-mail when it comes back into stock, they don't use the e-mail to spam you or anything. An Australian retailer said Tanaka told him there will be no more ginsanko knives because of supply issues with the steel. Once the remaining stock is gone, that's it, the line is gone.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:11
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Glockamole posted:I emailed CKTG asking about the availability. He said he'd check with Tanaka and remove the Ginsan series from the website if it's true. This morning when I checked the site, they only have the 240mm and 270mm knives listed, both $20 more expensive than before. Considering he didn't know and you brought it to his attention, he could have at least offered you one at the old price as a gesture of goodwill. Kind of a prick move, but not exactly unexpected. He did something similar with Hiromoto when production was stopped on those - he bought up all the remaining stock from another retailer. I guess in the future don't give him any info like that in your question, just ask him if he'll be getting any more in stock - it's always possible that he had stock on the way to him already.
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Oct 1, 2015 03:40
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Glockamole: MetalMasterJP has a Tanaka Ginsan 270mm on eBay. Only one left. $160.
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Oct 28, 2015 10:07
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Glockamole posted:270mm sounds enormous. I don't know what you're using now, but I went from an 8" to a 10" and now a 270mm as my primary knife. I'll switch between the 10" and the 270mm sometimes, but I never use the 8" anymore. MetalMaster is a well known seller, and as far as I know is completely legitimate. I've seen some complaints about slowness and lack of communication, but in the end he delivers the order.
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Oct 30, 2015 00:34
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Nigel Tufnel posted:My in-laws recently bought me my first serious knife - a Global G2. And while it is a massive step up from the £30 knives I was using I'm not sure what I should be expecting from it. Put the edge flat on the board and look at how it contacts the board - is there a flat spot large enough to allow the type of cutting you want to do? If the profile has no large flat spot you're going to have to rock or slice to avoid accordion cuts. The other issue you might have is something like a low hanging heel on the edge (something like this https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81OOSOSsbHL.jpg). If the heel is low, then it can prevent the edge in front of it from contacting the board properly. I've never used or even seen a Minosharp in person, but it looks like it will contribute to a low heel because of the way it gets used. As far as edge quality goes, it's probably less lovely than a carbide scraper type like an Accusharp, but I still don't think you'll get a good quality edge from it. Looking at videos of it, I think most people will mostly miss the very tip and heel completely, and then the areas immediately after the tip and before the heel will only get hit on one side by the sharpening wheel. Only a small section in the middle gets hit by the wheels on both sides. Oh, come on... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhBolWfpjuQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDJ6YJJjBLI
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Nov 3, 2015 06:33
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Moridin920 posted:Oh that's a good point, I thought about that for a moment and then promptly forgot to mention it. iirc the Global G2 has a decent amount of belly on it. There's probably no single test that tells you everything, but Steve Yun posted:
Can you gift her knives with a penny or whatever, then she gives you the money back to "buy" the knife from you? That's the superstition workaround that I'm familiar with. Kiwis are supposed to be pretty awesome for absolutely dirt cheap knives. Did you thin it after you flattened the edge? Looks like it could use it, given how far it looks like the edge moved up. Scott808 fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 11:36
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guppy posted:Can I ask why some people hate bolsters so much? Some of my knives have them, and I like them, because on some knives that don't have them it becomes harder to hone and sharpen near the heel. What's the downside? The bolsters people talk about disliking are the ones that run all the way down to the edge, not the collar type. They get in the way when sharpening near the heel, and eventually you'll end up with a recurved blade of sorts. Unless you grind it down, the bolster will be lower than the cutting edge. How do you find it harder to sharpen near the heel without a bolster?
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Nov 6, 2015 14:34
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Mac Bread Knife 270mm is on Amazon for $79.99 3rd party FBA or $80.00 sold and shipped by Amazon right now. It usually sits at $89.95. The well known Tojiro 270mm SD bread knife is pretty much a copy of the Mac. Epicurean Edge has it cycling through their Cyber Monday deals for $74.18 + s&h.
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Nov 30, 2015 13:59
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Karia posted:Anybody got experience with the Tojiro stainless line? I'm thinking of getting a couple santokus for Christmas presents, but neither of the people want western handles which rules out the DPs. They seem pretty much the same other than the handle and finish, both are VG10. (And yes, I'm going to go over knife care with them as well.) The "MV stainless" used in that one isn't VG10. It's Molybdenum Vanadium stainless, the specific steel isn't specified beyond that. But Tojiro calls VG10 used in the DP lines colbalt alloy steel, not MV. There are several DP lines with Japanese handles - http://www.tojiro-japan.com/japanese-style-knives/
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Dec 1, 2015 02:55
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Karia posted:Huh. CKTG has them filed under VG10, and molybdenum and vanadium are both in VG10 so I'd just figured. Looks like the FD-567 is what I'm looking for. Any idea where I could get it, though? Quick googling only shows one company with them and the price is more than I'm willing to put out. The MV steel seems like it's pretty close according to their website, so that's a good fallback in any case. Thanks! CKTG is not really a retailer I would rely on for accurate information. No idea who stocks them. You might ask one of the well known Japanese eBay vendors - MetalMasterJP, 330Mate, or BlueWayJapan - to see if they can get one for you.
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Dec 1, 2015 08:48
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mindphlux posted:also I really don't trust JCK as a company. Why? I can't recall reading anything bad about them before; quite the opposite, actually.
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Dec 1, 2015 08:56
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King has a ton of stones, but I think the King combos are usually smaller than the singles. Depends on what model, of course. Depending on how big the knives are that you plan to sharpen, it can be beneficial to get the larger stones. One more combo to consider, if you want one, is the King 800/6000 combo (PB-04) as well - $30 on Amazon. It says for carbon steel in the description, but I've used it on a number of stainless knives too (including a DP) and it works just fine. On the DP I will almost always follow up the 6000 with just a few swipes on a strop. I like the edge the strop gives much more than the 6000 on its own. Since King makes so many stones you really need to pay attention to what you're buying. For example, King 6000 S-1 vs King 6000 S-3. Both are King 6000 grit stones, but the S-1 is a larger stone. The S-3 is the same size as the PB-04. The single grit King Deluxe 800 or 1200 are larger than the PB-04/S-3. One thing I don't like about combo stones is that the mud from the coarse side will run onto the finishing side, so you've gotta clean it off before you move on. If you're doing multiple knives then you either do them all on one grit first, then the move up, or wash away a bunch of mud. The other thing is that since you flip the stone over, the face of one is the base of the other. Since lower grits tend to wear faster than finer grits, you have to flatten the coarse side to get a nice base for the finishing side. With a single grit stone, if you use only one side, the base side will always be flat and stable. You can argue about how flat you should keep the stone anyway, but that's another argument. Keep in mind that the Shaptons, for example, are splash and go stones, and are actually negatively impacted by extended soaking. The King 800/1000/1200 can be kept soaking. This depends on the manufacturing method of the stone/bonding agent.
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Dec 31, 2015 04:03
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One more thing, when you say it's not particularly sharp, are you saying this because the edge is not great (can it not slice newspaper, for example) or is it not performing well in use (something like dragging or sticking when cutting up an onion)? FWIW, I wasn't very impressed with my DP's real use performance OOTB, but the edge itself was quite sharp.
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Dec 31, 2015 05:32
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I think a freehand sharpening setup will allow you more flexibility in terms of maintenance than a jig system will get you. I feel I'm faster freehanding as well. But I've hardly spent any time on a jig system, so it seems natural that I'd find freehanding more natural, and thus be faster at it. If you spent the time that you do on a jig freehanding instead, perhaps you would find freehanding easier and would be more efficient at it as well. And the opposite would apply as well. Regarding cleaning - sanitizing and disinfecting are two different things when being talked about in this context, no? The 30 second dwell time is for sanitizing, the several minute dwell time is for disinfecting. I've never felt the need to use any type of sanitizing solution on a knife. I just wash with soap and water. If you feel the finish is too delicate for the scrubby side of a sponge, can't you use the cellulose sponge only side? Can a kurouchi finish not stand up to that? Plus you can disinfect the sponge in your quat/bleach solution if you're worried about the germs in the sponge since keeping the required long dwell time on the sponge seems way easier than even a short dwell time on a knife.
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Jan 5, 2016 07:30
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Broletariat posted:Can someone explain what a "honyaki" knife is? deimos posted:Usually japanese knives are "clad" that is a very hard metal that makes up the edge surrounded by a softer metal. Honyaki is the whole blade made from the same metal. My understanding is that although some companies market their monosteel knives as honyaki, it's probably more accurate to call those zenkou. Honyaki implies a knife that is also differentially hardened, not just monosteel.
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Jan 8, 2016 12:38
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The Ferret King posted:Can someone explain what a Zenkou = monosteel. Instead of having hagane (steel that makes up the cutting edge) and jigane (soft cladding) as a clad knife does, the whole thing is made of hagane.
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Jan 8, 2016 13:31
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KingColliwog posted:so I have a 600-1200 duosharp stone and green stropping compound. I'm thinking of adding a single finer stone to get that extra sharpness. Would something like a 6000 king water stone be a good choice? I find the King 6000 to be okay, but not great, depending on what you're sharpening. Results are fine, but the feeling of blade on stone I find bleh. I get why the Tojiro DP is one of the default recommendations for entry level Japanese knives, but I found its performance quite underwhelming out of the box - mine dragged and wedged much more than I found acceptable and, crazy as it seems, my food service specials outperformed it stock versus stock. I've taken mine to the stones and reworked it for a couple hours (not including refinishing, which takes a significant amount of time on top of that). It performs much, much better now. OOTB the sharpness was good, but the edge was flawed (low hanging heel, overgrind in edge) but pretty easily fixable if you can sharpen. The choil and bolster needed easing, which is also easy to do. The often criticized blockiness of the handle doesn't bother me at all, but I do wish the fit and finish where the bolster and handle meet were better. All of them seem to have gaps, some worse than others, where they meet which is filled with something, usually not so neatly. I haven't done so on mine, but you should be able to fix this (if you care to) with some minor effort. The affordable price point makes it a good knife to learn some basic maintenance/fixes on. But fixing the performance issues I had with mine is way beyond what the majority of people are going to be willing to do. I haven't tried out any samples other than my own, so it's very possible that mine was just kind of a dud.
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Feb 14, 2016 17:32
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Captain Log posted:I guess I misrepresented myself judging by the salt in these posts. The person that started this latest sharpening discussion was asking about a Victorinox, which isn't a "crazy nice" knife. Earlier you made it sound like some impossible task to learn, so don't even bother starting. Not everybody wants/needs to get to whatever "pro" level you're talking about. It didn't sound like the question was about anything more than wanting to learn some basic sharpening skills. There are lots of so called professionals out there who are poo poo anyway. If someone wants to give sharpening a go, why don't you take your 20+ years of experience and try to help them learn instead of discouraging it?
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Feb 15, 2016 16:21
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If you just want to ease the edges I don't think I'd bother doing the shoeshine method with sandpaper. I just knocked the crisp edges off mine with a DiaFold. If you do want to full on crown the spine or choil then I would put it in a vice and then use sandpaper (you can back the sandpaper with some tape to add some strength/tear resistance) in a shoeshine motion.
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Mar 6, 2016 12:51
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Steve Yun posted:
CA glue or epoxy.
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Mar 7, 2016 13:33
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Steve Yun posted:So for some reason the price of Victorinox knives has skyrocketed. Would Tramontina restaurant kitchen knives (the ones with the white handles) be a good substitute? I have what I am 99.9% sure are the same knives, but they used to be sold under the Sam's Club house brand at Sam's. The Sam's ones are now made in China, but used to be made in Brazil when I bought mine. For the money ($15 or less for the pack) they are outstanding. If you have a Costco that carries them (Tramontina Pro Line), they are also available at under $15.
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Mar 22, 2016 02:27
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coyo7e posted:Okay knife-o-philes I wanted to ask here because the only other knife thread I know is in TFR.. I have a classic-style Buck 110 knife (eagle scout reward from the place I did my project for,) that I've been sharpening using my honing steel for a while because I have no whetstones and stuff, and it seems to do a pretty good job (definitely sharp enough to shave with,) however I wanted something more transportable so I picked up a Smith's diamond stone (one of these http://www.smithsproducts.com/product/4-inch-diamond-combination/ ), and I noticed that after sharpening, I can feel burrs on the edge when I wipe the oil off the blade with a handkerchief, snagging on the cloth. Is there any good reason to use that weird oval-pattern design? I'm thinking that it's something they are using simply to save manufacturing costs, and am leaning toward returning it to the store because I just can't get it to not leave burrs, although it does give a pretty good edge. The hole pattern is supposed to hold swarf, or at least that's what the marketing copy says. DMT claims the same thing. The only DMT I have that's continuous surface is the 8" EEF, and it's freaking heavy compared to the 10" DuoSharps. Sharpening wise, I prefer the continuous surface, and if I replace my DuoSharps with other DMT plates I would get the continuous ones, but the interrupted surfaces are much, much lighter. On a portable sharpener the continuous surface plate would probably end up being way too heavy to be practical. As far as your burrs, try stropping it a bit. An old leather belt or newspaper will do if you don't want to buy anything.
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Mar 26, 2016 10:58
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AnonSpore posted:Okay, I feel pretty silly asking this, but: I posted about my experience with that earlier: Scott808 posted:I find the King 6000 to be okay, but not great, depending on what you're sharpening. Results are fine, but the feeling of blade on stone I find bleh. I picked up the more common 240mm since it was pretty cheap. Same deal. I think OOTB the 240mm is a slightly better cutter than the 270mm was, but my worked on 270mm outperforms it. I switched back and forth multiple times for the same tasks to try and make sure I wasn't just bullshitting myself into thinking I put in the time so surely it must be better. Just because the edge itself is sharp doesn't mean it'll perform well. The primary grind and geometry of the blade matters. On top of that, as your sharpen and move up the blade it effectively becomes fatter since it's V shape (roughly). As you sharpen you're moving the edge up that V shape slowly towards the spine, and the blade is getting thicker, and cutting performance decreases. You maintain the performance by thinning as you sharpen. Lower the angle so that you're grinding not the edge, but behind it. It sounds like you're wedging when you dice an onion; I had that too. If I look at my food service specials, the spine starts out thicker than the Tojiro, but it has more distal taper than the Tojiro and it gets thinner at the tip. Using my fingers and pinching, the grind on the food service specials feels thinner all the way down too. IMO dicing onions with these was easier than the Tojiro OOTB.
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Apr 10, 2016 13:43
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Virtue posted:This question might be a bit silly but I've scanned over the thread and my head is starting to spin. I'm planning on purchasing a tojiro gyutou and pairing knife as my first "real" knife set and believe I need some sort of honing tool to go with it? What should I purchase? Steel or ceramic? Sharpening won't be an issue -- there's a place nearby that does it for a fee. The last page is an argument about honing. Personally, I just touch up on a fine stone instead of using a honing rod. If you do use a rod, my choice would be a ceramic. If you have a steel honing rod that's softer than the knife steel you can dig into it with an edge leading stroke. Regarding the arguments about honing a Japanese knife, I've seen magnified photos of an edge honed on an Idahone. Despite some marketing claims out there, a ceramic rod acts as an abrasive like a stone, so the results of those photos are what I would expect - the knife looked like it got a sharpening.
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Jul 7, 2016 09:12
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Rotoru posted:Speaking of luck, I got a Tojiro Flash 6" utility for slightly less than the place was selling their DP equivalent. Unless the grind is significantly different than the standard DP series, my experience with the standard DP gyutos is that out of the box the 270 cuts worse than the 240, which in turn cuts worse than the 210. For myself, I was not satisfied with the stock performance of the 270 and 240. There was an discussion earlier in the thread about damascus and it's effect, or lack thereof, on performance. I think it's possible for it to have an effect, but probably not in the way most people think of it. I've read about people saying they can feel a change in drag when they do things like etch the damascus to bring out the pattern in the steel. While I don't have any damascus kitchen knives, I can believe that, because in my own experience, the finish I put on a blade changes the way it feels in use.
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Jul 8, 2016 14:58
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Yeah, I could see it for some really expensive custom knives, but outside of spending thousands of dollars per knife I would expect to see anything with damascus to just be cladded. These are not exactly cheap, but not holy poo poo expensive either. Echizen - https://www.knifemerchant.com/products.asp?manufacturerID=298 Saji - http://japanesechefsknife.com/SajiCoreLessCustomDamascusSeries.html Shun - http://www.cutleryandmore.com/shun-dual-core
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Jul 9, 2016 01:48
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CrazyLittle posted:Damascus isn't going to change the performance of a Tojiro knife because the cutting edge on the DP and Flash series is still VG-10. It's purely aesthetic, and on my DP Damascus it's barely visible. That's what I mean by not in the way most people think - I'm not talking about performance of the edge because of the core steel. There's more to performance qualities than just the edge. You can bring out the pattern in damascus by etching it - ferric chloride is commonly used. You can see Bob Kramer etching a blade here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4x0f2b_0kn0&t=395s But people have said that if they can feel the difference when they etch their knives - it adds drag. So some people will bring the finish back down with a fine abrasive, but that can tone down the contrast. As I said, I don't have any damascus kitchen knives, so I can't say for myself, but I believe it because of my own experience with different levels of finish on the same knife feel different in use.
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Jul 9, 2016 02:07
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Whenever you see a a chicken broken down with a honesuki in the usual western way it doesn't look like there's any real advantage to using it over a petty or something similar. If you watch videos of Japanese breaking down chickens with a honesuki it's done in a different method, and I think there's probably more of an advantage to using it that way.
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Aug 13, 2016 06:46
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 12:09 |
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If you like sharpening jigs, boy does some guy in Russia have a thing for you... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3SbEWFSA8s
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Sep 15, 2016 08:01
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