Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Oh god yes.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

The guy that designed the first iteration of plastic intake manifolds will probably burn in hell.

Nailed everyone of the big 3 right?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Astonishing Wang posted:

If you're going to take them apart to clean and lubricate don't you think you should just replace the pads and whatever else needs it?

Basically this. I know we are spending someone else's money but parts are (probably) cheap and considering they are the one thing preventing you and others dying...

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

MrOnBicycle posted:

I forgot to mention (or rather, was going to rephrase but stupidly forgot to type it again) that the discs and pads are pretty much brand new.


Probably less than 2500 miles and were replaced by the PO late spring last year. I might have to dig through the paperwork to see if the brand is listen, but I don't think he did it by himself though as he spent ~$900 on it (if I recall correctly). He wasn't a cheapskate though as he bothered to replace filters that only people who care to know will know about. I doubt it's the absolute best stuff on the market though.
I'll have to check if there is a part number or brand name on the pads next time I have the wheels off.

Ahh, miss the days of the orange anti-squeal goo.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Dolphin posted:

Torque converter just exploded in front of a 4l60e. Horrible grinding. Stopped driving almost immediately but truck has to be towed. Is there any chance the transmission isn't a paperweight?

How's the fluid look?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

They roll out of northern factories with more rust.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

CAFE. You sweet summer child.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Endless Mike posted:

Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following:

-Replace the clutch: $300 parts, $295 labor (2-3 hours?) as they claim it has unusual wear. Here's the picture they sent with it already out? I don't know what "unusual wear" should look like. The disk is $91 on the Toyota site, though they may be replacing other things too (plus markup of course)?

-Replace spark plugs $100 parts, $130 labor (1 hour?) - seems like typical dealer markup on the plugs, and an hour of labor is probably excessive, but also not that much a concern. I know these aren't supposed to be replaced until 60k miles, but it's also six years old at this point.

-Clean mass air flow meter of deposits - $91 - this seems like BS

-Induction service to clean fuel delivery system - $218 - this really seems like BS

-Four wheel alignment as he says they had to remove suspension parts which seems like they should have to pay for it themself as part of the recall - $130

Does this make sense?

Granted I'm not up on this recall but figured they drop it all so why even break it apart to look at the clutch unless it has an inspection cover.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:


I stand corrected.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Heh, reminds me of our local Sears (which closed last year) had a dedicated outpost of a building that did nothing but cut keys.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Javid posted:

So question, then. If somebody's commute is literally too short to bring the engine up to temp, how do you remediate that? My mom has already beaten a battery to death by driving less than a mile each way 5 days a week.

Not much you can do besides flog it once a week or so.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Drive the wheels off it.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Dear god, you own a truck...and actually use it to do truck things like towing. Gasp.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Enos Cabell posted:

My younger brother bought a 2013 Chevy Traverse LT w/ 100k miles 6 months ago at a local dealership, not a CPO vehicle and no warranty. He owes 11.5k on it now, which is roughly what it would sell for private party around here in good condition, which it is decidedly not after the engine blew up on the interstate the other day. Quotes have come in and he's looking at 6.5-7k in repairs now. What the gently caress do you even do in this situation? Going 7k upside down in a vehicle that has already grenaded once seems insane, but what other viable options are there? He's going to plead his case at the dealership, but neither of us are very optimistic about that.

Oh, and to make things even more spicy, he and his wife are expecting their first child in about a month. Good timing!

Eat the loss or roll over it into another loan and be deeper than the Titanic.

What the hell is the engine BTW? I always get the Traverse and Equinox confused and one or the other normally grenades the engines.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Enos Cabell posted:

Looks like it's got the 3.6 LLT engine. I'm not letting that dude pick out his own cars anymore, years back he had a 2002 VW Beetle that created a massive black hole in his wallet.

Ah ha, hit the mark.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Twerk from Home posted:

Goddamn, it looks like these have a high rate of timing chain failure and the fix is a shorter oil change interval.

Can you no longer trust manufacturer OCIs? I've always gone by what the manual says.

haha, travel over to Ford-ville where they installed the wrong dipstick.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

I used a bumper jack on a '72 Olds Delta 88 on a busy state road when I was 16 (and the flat was the one facing the two line highway). I'm still wondering how I'm still alive.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

hifi posted:

300 ft-lbs is expecting a lot of overrating when my lug nuts are... 80? ft-lbs.

As for roadside kit, gloves. Mercedes is the only one I've seen bundle them in the tire kit.

Yeah, 100-110 is where I go to.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

melon cat posted:

2007 Corolla. I'm replacing all of the struts this spring. I usually go OEM only, but for ease of installation (and cost) reasons I'm thinking of buying and using a set of Monroe Quick Struts. Are there any known quality/durability issues with Monroe, or are they a pretty good option versus OEM?

Or should just quit being a cheapass and get some strut compressors with some OEM Toyota struts.

Ever use strut compressors? Doing the job can kill you in not a good way.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

BlackMK4 posted:


I am the terrible mechanic

Aren't we all.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Power discharge issue...interesting.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

0 volts? Dang.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Speleothing posted:

Like two or three days. Though it took a week for me to get a multimeter.

Guess I should get the alternator checked out as soon as I can drive to a shop.

Welp, a bad diode in an alternator can drain a battery within a minute to what you say. Blew my mind once I found one that did it.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Yeah, Denso is the OEM for those piles of poo poo.

Cripes just reading this thread is jinxing my truck.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Queen Combat posted:

To be fair, if any coils were expected to go, #4 is it. The heater core hose goes right over the top of it, and even though I replaced the heater core hose when I picked it up, it still droops when hot and can actually touch the coil if you're not careful with wire wrapping. So, yeah. It's been baked.

Yeah, everytime I get a stumble/check engine I pray to the gods..."Please don't be #4 please don't be #4" but that's on a truck and well your CV is trivial compared to it.

But it's funny, the heater hose being the cause.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

The stuff you are describing sounds like an episode out of Star Trek.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Javid posted:

Do head bolts even cost enough to be a corner worth cutting?

Well no. Problem is when the dang things are at least $12 a shot.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Did he mill the head?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Yeah, basically a glorified broom.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

I remember in the old days you could just buy the inserts for wiper blades.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

STR posted:

I like Bosch for the solid beam type, personally, but only get about 6 months out of them. Don't ever buy them in a retail store unless you take a bucket of anal lube with you. Use Bosch's website to lookup what wipers you need, then put the part number into Rockauto (do NOT loving trust Rockauto's catalog for wipers, so far it's been wrong every time when I actually look up the proper wiper). Rockauto is insanely cheap for wipers, even with shipping added.

If you're going to go retail, listen to toplitzin. Pay attention to Advance, O'Reilly's, Autozone, etc ads, and check out Walmart as well.

e: at the moment I have Bosch's low end solid beam line, Clear Advantage, which ran $9.39 for the set, plus shipping. Shipping was $6.99, but I had a valve cover gasket in the order (and c'mon, we all need more than just wipers on that order anyway, right?). Icons and Evolutions don't cost that much more on Rockauto though.



Man you aren't kidding and I learned something thanks to you. Just bought a pair of Anco's at Walmart for around $6-7 a piece. On Rock Auto they are listed at around $2 each.

But like you said, factor in shipping costs, etc. extra parts.

Problem is you can't wait 3-5 days for wiper blades. When they die, you need them now hence the margins. But for the love of god, don't buy them at an auto parts store. Get them from Walmart (and oil, unless crazy deals from the parts places) and know you are only getting fleeced a tad for the convenience. Capitalism at its finest.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

The Bosch ones for my VW are $30 each in person. I paid like $18 for the set online.

Yeah, the "Heh, you got beam style wipers on your fancy car...well, here we go..."

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

STR posted:

They don't just "die", though. When they start chattering consistently, or streaking, is when it's time to replace them. You get plenty of warning.


Oh they "die" in winter. They like to tear.

I'll bore you all with another story. Wife's truck wiper arm would bust free during icy/winter time conditions. No biggie the first time, just basically a 12mm bolt after prying off the cap. Then it happened again. So I thought hey, let's do some loctite (blue) on it. Was fine for a couple years but it busted loose a couple weeks ago. :v:

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

fridge corn posted:

Lol those discs are hosed.

Yeah....how the hell you place drilled rotors on the lathe to begin with...

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Is it eating any oil? As long as the oil level is good I'd keep on doing what you are doing.

I'll run conventional 5,000-6K or so. A good synthetic...10K. That's just my preference.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

totalnewbie posted:

I love this one because it usually goes "hahah another 'one weird trick to..' OH MY GOD IT WORKS."

Yeah, the chin trick does indeed work.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Krakkles posted:

Is there anything I can do to improve the range of remote lock/unlock on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee?

It's got the factory unlock system/remotes, I've made sure they have good batteries, but it's range is consistently about 6". Can I solder some sort of antenna onto the receiver or something?

And do you mean 6 inches or 6 feet?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Motronic posted:

Ohhhhh...that detail makes all the difference and sense around crazy pricing. Yeah, I bet a lot more rotors ARE worth surfacing as compared to in the US/EU.

A lot of it boils down to "gotta pay if you wanna play".

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Dukket posted:

Is there a general list of when it's time to replace X you should upgrade from OEM?
Just for daily driving, not the track or main street cruzin'.

No.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

MrOnBicycle posted:

How bad an idea is buying 7 year old coils with 40kkm on them for 30-40% of the price of new ones?

Bad.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply