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Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Why not use the same 3M protective adhesive film that manufacturers use? It’s available on Amazon. Cover the outermost portions and peel it off when you get home.

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Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Baronash posted:

I have a 2008 Equinox with a crippling overheating issue. The temperature creeps up at idle (though rarely, if ever, actually redlines), and generally drops once the car starts moving. A mechanic friend and I tried bleeding air out of the coolant system, replacing the thermostat, replacing the radiator cap, and replacing the bleeder screw. None of those solved the problem, though they did occasionally help for a bit. Heat in the car generally doesn't work, which preceded the overheating problems, but definitely seems to be related as we've gotten it to work for short periods of time while troubleshooting. After all of that, I gave up on the DIY approach and took it to a mechanic who flushed the coolant and replaced the radiator cap again, which had the car working like a dream for about 500 miles.

Oil isn't milky. No steam in exhaust. No visible bubbling in the coolant reservoir. No sweet smell while the engine is running. No noticeable leaks on the floor either while the car is off or during long (10-30 minutes) sessions with the engine running. The radiator fan seems to work, and it runs for several minutes after the engine is shut off.

Any thoughts as to what this might be? Another mechanic did take a look at it after the problems reoccurred, but I only ever got the cliffnotes version of what he said, which was that the problem would be expensive to fix and he didn't think it was worth it.

Sounds like your fan motor is dead. Park it and check to see if the fan comes on while it’s idling.

Oops just saw what you wrote. There could be two fans as well, I’m not familiar with the car.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
I just usually soak pins and any other metal brackets etc in brake cleaning fluid and wipe them down with rags before reinstalling. Adding appropriate lube where necessary.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
I bought my low profile floor jack at harbor freight and it has been great for many years now. I also bought some aluminum jacks stands from them too because I welcome death regularly.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Wrap it around the cable? Probably won’t stick to the battery long.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Scrree posted:

Last year my partner inherited a 2012 Toyota RAV4 that has:

* A lot of smoke stains with a still-lingering smell.
* Both sides of the back bumper busted out

And we just learned today:

* Loose front wheel bearings and totally shot brakes.

We got an estimate to get bearings/brakes replaced for $2,300ish, and my partner's feeling pretty demoralized since she didn't expect it to be that bad. She probably drives around 5,000 miles a year so she didn't mind the fact that it was kind of funky, but she doesn't want to throw good money after bad by paying for major repairs on something that's generally unpleasant to be in/look at.

My stupid question is: where do people go to get cars professionally detailed/get bodywork done? And does it make sense to put in the money to refurbish the aesthetics on something like that? The idea of 'starting fresh' and driving away with something newer from a dealership is tempting, but I'm pretty sure those thoughts were put into my head by commercials and I shouldn't be underestimating the value of a 2012 Toyota just for aesthetic reasons.

2012 Toyota RAV4 is awesome. Fix it up. Fix it for her because you care and you don’t want a wheel to fall off or for her to not be able to stop in a timely fashion.

This is not a super difficult job, just dirty and greasy and potentially rusty depending on your locale. Plenty of YouTube videos to show you how to do this step-by-step.

For reference I have a much shittier 2004 Toyota matrix and I will never trade it in for anything until i return to the clay from which I sprung.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

a forbidden love posted:

My warranty "just" expired in terms of time and by a lot in miles. $190 to get them to look at it. Plus whatever the tow cost are.

You’ve read the voltage but you don’t really know the start cycle amps, do you? I’d still recommend trying to jump it.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

JazzFlight posted:

Total newbie question here, buying a car for the first time in a couple decades:
Buying a new 2022 Corolla LE from a local New York Toyota dealership, they're clearing out this year's models at MSRP ($20,875 MSRP + $457 installed packages + $1,095 delivery fee), so I'm biting now.
I have the cash to pay it off in full right now, but the MSRP deal is contingent on me financing through them. The guy mentioned I can pay off the loan in full after making the first 3 monthly payments with no prepayment penalty. If that's all I need to do, I guess I'll do it.

Anyone have experience doing this? Any major pains about doing it this way? I just need a new car since my 2002 Corolla is about to give up the ghost, so I would really like to land this particular one if I can just pay the listed price.

Just feels weird applying for a fake loan in order to do them a favor.

Literally nothing wrong with it, I’ve refinanced an auto loan three days after signing it.

It’s just important to NOT TRUST A DEALER on anything. Make sure you read the writing pertaining to early payoff penalties.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
AI Stupid Question Thread - please do your own brakes

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

opengl posted:

2005 Pontiac Vibe, 1.8L 1ZZ-FE/4 speed auto, 112k mi.

This one has me stumped. When we got the really cold snap (under 10F) the week of Christmas, I thought I popped an exhaust leak as it got noticeably louder coming from somewhere seemingly around the cat or maybe the manifold.

The car sat for around a week, and the next time I drove it, it sounded normal and drove fine.

Drove it again today, and now the issue comes and goes. When it does happen, it very much has that distinctive exhaust leak sound. But I also notice it's slightly down on power, in addition to what seems like vibrations resonating which correspond to engine speed, and a rougher idle (enough so that when in drive the whole car vibrates pretty badly). But the really weird thing is how intermittent it is, I've never had that happen with an exhaust leak before. When it's not doing this, it drives 100% normal and quiet.

My only guess at the moment is possibly some cat material is loose and intermittently causing a partial exhaust blockage. I did a visual inspection and nothing looked out of the ordinary, but have yet to raise the car and throughly check it over.

Those particular engines had a pretty common air intake manifold gasket issue that caused rough idle and loss of power. Supposedly you have to order a different gasket that they revised, but used a different part number. The good one is orange.

If it starts leaking it will ruin the air/fuel ratio and cause shaking like your describing. My 2004 Toyota matrix shook so bad at idle the radio trim cover almost fell off.

I dont know if this is your issue, but check to see if you have an orange intake gasket (you can see some flanges) or if you see a black one you might as well replace that now (it only takes 20 minutes or so).

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

opengl posted:

It was indeed the intake manifold gasket. Easy job, in and out in less than 30 min.

Hell yeah. Glad it worked out.

Did you forget to reconnect the rear throttle body hose the first time like I did and drive it around and think you were gonna have to take it all apart again? What a relief to pop the hood and realize it and just pop the hose back on and have it idle perfectly.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Ginette Reno posted:

I've got a 2014 vw beetle. There's a piece of grey trim on the bumper that is coming undone repeatedly. It's not coming all the way out and falling out (the left part is fine) but it's annoying. Is this something I could fix myself? The dealer re-attached it but it popped loose again. I'm guessing there's a clip or something for it that secures it. They quoted me 2k to bring it to a bodyshop and get a new insert which I'd prefer not to do.

I don't think it's necessarily in danger of coming off completely right now but it still sucks

I'd just re-attach it with some 3M double sided tape behind it.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0?tag=amsbd07-20

Unless I am not understanding the issue correctly.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Man it’s got to be a hydraulic problem, right?

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Sagebrush posted:

Well the only three ways I can think of that your car would roll around when it's in gear and shut off are:

- something in the driveline is broken and your wheels are just freewheeling
- something in the valvetrain is broken and you have little or no compression
- something in the clutch is broken and it's slipping.

The first two are not possible if the car is running fine. It is quite possible that the clutch is starting to slip after 160,000 miles, especially if you or another regular driver have a habit of riding it. It could also be leaky hydraulics I suppose but I would tend towards it just being worn out.

How far away from the floor is the clutch's friction zone? I.e. how far down do you have to push it in before it works? If you are driving quickly, make an upshift, and drop the clutch under power with the RPMs still high, does the RPM hang there for a second before settling down?

Possibly with a hydraulic leak that is not noticeable with the pump running but I dunno.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:

Okay, I'll look into it. What are the good brands? I found MillerCat.

if you're super worried about it, use tamper-resistant nuts/bolts. they take a special type of socket to loosen, and it would be highly unlikely for a thief to have it, while you would be able to provide it to anyone servicing your vehicle.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Yeah, IMHO, that's not unsafe at all and is just cosmetic.

I'd try to fix it myself, if you can live with the paint scratches and the likelihood of panel gap asymmetry.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Captain Log posted:

Unfortunately, I have mobility issues related to pretty severe nerve damage in my legs, so fixing anything below waist height isn't happening. Otherwise, I'd already be trying to jank the loving thing back together.

I just sent off pictures to the Hyundai body people through their estimate program, so I'm going to use their probably inflated to high-hell quote at a ceiling for what to expect. Then I'll shop around locally.

Ah ok, sorry to hear that. Try to find a paintless dent removal guy nearby. It will be almost certainly be cheaper if money is a concern, if not go through insurance and let the dealer/collision center replace your bumper and charge for paint + blend. It’s really your choice.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

theOctagon posted:

I’m not sure but cheapest new rim i can find is ~$405 seems like we have a lot of room for $100 repairs before replacement makes sense

2018 Wrx STI they are 19x8.5

Call the local Subaru dealer and find out who they use. If the service department won't tell you, check with the local Subaru clubs or whatever.

I did this to my BMW and used the BMW dealer guy, who actually had a van/workshop parked on the dealer lot and i went right thru him to fix my wheel flawlessly for $120*


*Extra charge because my wheel was ultra hard to blend the paint on, apparently. Didn't care, they came out perfect

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

wesleywillis posted:

My understanding is that 4wd= transfer case and one could compare it to having a locker in a drive axle. With transfer case, front and rear are locked together and don't try to turn corners with it. You might gently caress something up.

Awd= centre differential/coupling mechanism and it might be more comparable to having an LSD in your drive axle, but (sometimes) can be locked when necessary.

If this isn't correct, I expect someone is already typing up a reply calling me a stupid jerkoff for being so stupid and I haven't even hit the post button yet

I dunno, I’ve seen several 4x4s with open front and rear differentials.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

EasilyConfused posted:

Hello, I know almost nothing about cars despite driving for twenty years.

My 2007 Infiniti G35 frequently needs to be jumpstarted after sitting for a week or less. It's had the battery replaced recently. I figured there was some sort of drain on the battery and brought it to the shop, but they didn't find anything.

Any thoughts?

I mean, probably does have some sort of drain, but you can get a battery tender for less than $100 that will keep it healthy. Or buy a quick disconnect terminal.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Dude, I assure you that this is something that you can do yourself - even if you have to buy a socket and a hammer. 15 minutes, tops.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

Safety Dance posted:

CarMax is a US chain of used car dealerships. On one hand I bought the warranty, on the other hand I trust them about as far as I could throw them, but on the third hand I don't know if my mistrust is misplaced.

I was wrong about splitting the block. I got that in my head from skimming a few nasioc threads to learn more about the issue.

I was under the impression that Carmax warranties are not dealt with in-house, in other words, they wouldn't be fixing your car personally. E.G. that one car blog guy that got the Land Rover or whatever with the Carmax warranty and kept getting it fixed at the LR dealership using his Carmax warranty.

Also, you have multiple warranties on a new car. you have the common 3 year/36K mile bumper-to-bumper which covers everything, which waved bye to your car long ago. And you also have the drivetrain warranty, which for a Subaru covers the engine, transmission, and all-wheel drive and lasts for five years or 60,000 miles. The latter may easily apply to your car depending on what on the engine they cover, and when it was purchased.

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Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

VelociBacon posted:

Greasing the bolts would wildly change the appropriate torque spec wouldn't it?

Lubricated torque specs are almost always different, so yes. Adding any lubricant will usually change the prevailing torque, and it's just not necessary.

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