AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Linedance posted:

Even finding someone to plug a simple pierce puncture with a plug is hard enough, because of the risks and liability of the tire fails. An inch long cut? That tire is hosed. Plugs are one thing, no way I would trust any method for repairing an actual cut.

Yeah, agreed. I plug tires pretty regularly and I wouldn't try to repair that.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2016 19:38

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# ¿ May 15, 2024 13:44

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

bolind posted:

Out of curiosity more than anything else; when a car makes a gurgling/bubbling sound, what causes that? I've heard it several times, but most recently driving with a co-worker to a branch office yesterday. It kinda sounds like if you blow bubbles with a straw into your soft drink paper cup, only the paper cup is a tin bucket.

There's a couple options. Since you mention it was "(while) driving", it could be (a very mild, much less cool version of) exhaust overrun. This I've usually heard described as "burbling" or "exhaust burble". This is caused by fuel burning off in the exhaust.

If it's not exhaust noise, it could also be the cooling system - air bubbles in the cooling system will definitely do that.

Fuel system, too, maybe?

# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 07:56

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Since all this resistor chat is going on ... Is there an easy way I could figure out what resistor(s) to put in place of my passenger airbag to make the light go out?

The vehicle is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the airbag isn't getting replaced.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 05:03

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Raluek posted:

His is probably fine and intact, but he's probably removing it so he doesn't have to worry about it going off if he whacks a rock because it's a Jeep. I think TJs have a way to switch them off, but I guess XJs don't.

Close enough.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 05:53

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

kastein posted:

...
Curious why though, even my friend (who I have posted many pictures of, flying in his XJ) never blew up a late-model airbag, and he got a lot of airtime, wheeled that thing so hard it bent in half not once but twice, and buckled the motor mounts on the frame from a hard landing. He lit off a 95-96 airbag wheeling but those are fully mechanical.

Sounds easy enough, thank you.

As for why... (Link)

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jul 14, 2016

# ¿ Jul 12, 2016 00:34

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Christobevii3 posted:

Probably two open axles with a brake system to simulate awd. I wouldn't worry about it then.

... What?

# ¿ Jul 19, 2016 03:56

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Sloppy posted:

1986 Dodge Ram D50. My steering has started...rattling. I can wiggle the steering wheel and make clanking noises. It seems to be the fellow in the picture below. Should there be something rubber in the gap here, or is my problem just the bolt working it's way off and I need to tighten it back up before I die? What is this part called anyway?

Also, despite being a tiny pickup, it's really hard to turn, especially at low speeds. It doesn't have power steering. I've never owned a non-power steering vehicle before, is this pretty normal? Tire pressure is good, not sure what else could be making it such a workout.

Stop driving that, now. When that fails, you will lose all steering ability. It's called a ~~pitman arm~~(actually, it's definitely attached to your steering, but what the gently caress is that?), and it is absolutely critical that you repair it immediately.

# ¿ Jul 19, 2016 05:10

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Most if not all Fords have this, at least up until ~2000.

# ¿ Jul 20, 2016 17:25

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Given smoke testers are $800+, what's the best way for a shadetree mechanic to find vacuum leaks? I've tried spraying carb cleaner, no results, I tried blowing cigar smoke and just got dizzy. Please tell me there's a better way.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2016 06:41

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Three-Phase posted:

General wheel question:

Does anyone apply some kind of anti sneeze compound on their lug nuts?

I do. Copper is good, the lovely cheap stuff is fine too. Definitely helps protect the studs, and I figure it prevents them from seizing ( :q:

).

It fits within the good rule of "everything gets assembled with loctite or anti-seize", so even though I'm in the southwest, it gets it.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2016 23:11

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Three-Phase posted:

Thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use some locite.

I just want to make sure what I said wasn't unclear - you should use anti-seize, not loctite.

# ¿ Jul 25, 2016 03:26

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Motronic posted:

This: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-...3989725&vxp=mtr

Or build one yourself for like $30.

I have also used the unlit propane torch method, but that is limited to certain locations/engine bays. If you have a fan running all the time it's probably not going to work. You can also spray carb cleaner around to find larger leaks.

Tried the propane method, no results, probably due to the conditions you mention. Found a How-To on making a smoke tester, didn't feel like putting in the effort, spent $89.99. THANK YOU!

# ¿ Jul 25, 2016 04:15

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Yeah, get a spare rim from a junkyard. You can change a tire roadside, but the tools are specialized (either buy the iffy one from HF or fabricate a better one yourself) and it's not something you'll want to learn on the side of the road.

# ¿ Jul 29, 2016 04:57

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

My wife's '02 Passat got worked on recently, and I absolutely don't trust the mechanic now - when we got it back, the oil pressure sender (I think? Sensor right near the oil filter) had been poorly spliced with random wire,which was then cut. (Poorly spliced as in the wires were just twisted together, and then the wire was literally cut - so by the time I got the car back, the wire was completely disconnected.)

I'm taking it to a different mechanic to get it repaired, but ... What negative effects would this cause?

We originally took the car in because it was having the sludging problem these motors have, and feared the worst. He gave it back running fine, and we've had no issue over the 2k miles since, but it seems really odd that the oil pressure sender could be disconnected for this long and it's not even showing a warning light.

# ¿ Jul 29, 2016 18:00

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

skooma512 posted:

Time for new tires.

Does it matter what kind of tread pattern or tire I get? I have an Accord and I live in LA, no snow and minimal rain. It's MT and so wheelspin while launching on a wet road is the only real going concern.

Nope. Go on tire rack, search the size, pick the cheapest/highest treadwear tire you feel comfortable with.

I remember doing this on my Miata, and it was pretty hilarious how long they lasted. I put 40k on them and couldn't discern any actual wear.

# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 04:57

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Michael Scott posted:

Are you saying tires literally don't differ in terms of experience between manufacturers or models? I thought checking specific model reviews on tire rack was important.

Not quite. At a very basic functional level, most (all?) manufacturers make tires that are very much normal goods. Tires for a specialized purpose are a very different story, of course.

It's never a bad idea to check reviews, but for this basic use case? I wouldn't personally do more than glance that there wasn't reviews consistently saying "YOU WILL DIE IF YOU ORDER THIS".

# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 20:07

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

scuz posted:

That goes against all I've ever learned when people were telling me "don't cheap-out on things that separate you from the ground, i.e. shoes, bed, tires."

That's good advice, honestly.

Then again, my last set of tires cost $1400, so ... v :v:

v

I apologize if I misunderstood the question, but I took it as "am I going to die if I buy cheap/the wrong tires", to which, the simple answer is no. The more complicated answer is maybe, as it will take longer for your car to stop, it will have less traction in corners or adverse conditions, and they may be less durable in some scenarios.

# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 20:58

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Does anyone have a source for a wiring diagram for the (power) driver seat from a Honda Accord Crosstour? I believe it's from a 2013, based in part numbers, but I'd accept anything.

I'm hoping to rewire the harness so I can put this in my jeep and keep the power functions. It appears to have seat heaters, but I haven't pulled the covers off yet.

I'm open to cutting off the main adapter (one plug, about 13-15 pins, at the front of the seat) or even wiring directly in at the motors if needed, I just haven't had any luck getting a diagram of what does what.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2016 02:18

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Looks like http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html has you covered. Under "Body & Accessories" instead of interior, for some reason.

Elmnt80 posted:

If nobody has done this by tuesday, I will nab a copy while at work.

Terrific, thanks guys!

Follow-up question(s): How can I find out what voltages these sensors (below, lower right, x4, in each of the motors) expect? I'm guessing the common purple running to each from the PSCU is ground for the sensor, and I figure if I can find the correct voltage, I can fake them out. Or, better, is there any chance I could run the motor on two of these wires rather than all four?

I'm imagining getting the PSCU working would be a lot more complicated than I care to take on, because it has connections to all sorts of wacky poo poo I have no use for, but maybe the motors can be run without it.

Also, judging by the wiring, it's not heated, but maybe I got the year wrong or something.

# ¿ Aug 9, 2016 07:59

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

I would be utterly shocked if a power seat motor in any common current vehicle expected anything other than straight +12V.

Meaning at the sensor, or just hook the other two wires up?

I've heard that some power motors get fried from straight DC, and if I don't install this, it'll get sold, so I don't want to blow it up trying.

# ¿ Aug 9, 2016 08:09

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

kastein posted:

Like IOC said, ignore the sensors unless you use the PSCU. They're only there for the PSCU's benefit, you don't need to wire them at all. Also, note the little two circles and an arc symbol inside each motor in the schematic - that's a thermal circuit breaker, it's a commonly used technique in window and seat regulator motors to allow you, the user, to run the motor all the way to one end of its travel, stall it out, trip the breaker, and it won't do anything except periodically cool down, untrip, instantly trip again, etc until you stop leaning on the drat switch and let it sit or tell it to go the other direction.

That sounds like exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you!

# ¿ Aug 10, 2016 05:37

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Any recommendations on a good way to find a good traffic lawyer? Especially in the San Fernando valley area in California.

Someone I know is going to need one. No, it's not me.

# ¿ Aug 14, 2016 06:49

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Kommienzuspadt posted:

My stupid question: should I attempt to replace the brake pads and rotors for my 2010 RAV4 myself? I am not mechanically incompetent but I do not own my own garage with lift either. For reference the most complicated thing I have done myself is change my own oil, which I do not find difficult at all. Don't mind buying the right tools to do the job correctly. Thoughts? I actually have to change my oil soon anyway so I could do them all at the same time...

Pads and rotors are probably the next easiest job after oil filter. If it has rear drums, though ... ugh.

(Disc brakes are easy - like, literally two - four bolts holding them on after the wheel is off. Drum brakes are a weird connection of springs and screws and oh by the way you didn't set the tension on that correctly so go ahead and pull that back off and NOW IT'S STUCK. They're not by any means impossible, but they require more finesse.)

Do it if it's discs all around. Maybe do it if you feel like it if it's drums in the back.

# ¿ Aug 22, 2016 17:10

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

FogHelmut posted:

This was my plan. I just wasn't sure if it was safer to just leave this stuff attached.

When you say "resplice that wire nicely," I mean I've done plenty of soldering and shrink tubing, but on a table with plenty of open space. This is up high in a tight area. I've always heard butt crimp connectors are no good, but that's what they already used. I can't imagine they took the whole harness out into a reasonable area to work on it, and I'm sure there are tens of thousands of crimped connections out there just fine.

What dealer in SoCal was this? I'm looking at buying a new car soon and this is scary.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2016 00:49

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Couldn't find the insurance thread - where can you get GAP insurance except via the creditor (FoMoCo, in this case)?

In California. Called Progressive (offers loan lease but not GAP, which is a lesser degree of protection), AAA, and USAA so far, the latter two just don't offer it at all.

Thanks!

# ¿ Aug 13, 2017 20:51

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Progressives is up to 25% more than the ACV, if you're upside down more than that you've got bigger issues.

I'm open to ideas on this, but I feel like this isn't totally correct. Example: We bought the car today. If it's wrecked tomorrow, it's going to pay off the loan?

(... In a month? In a year? Point being this makes sense at some point, but I don't feel safe saying it makes sense overall.)

# ¿ Aug 14, 2017 01:34

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

InitialDave posted:

Elastic trickery - electricity. It's a stupid line from a beer advert or something about 20 years ago.

I'm using this forever. Thank you.

# ¿ Aug 16, 2017 05:50

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Spazz posted:

I remember reading on here that there is generic books for each make/model that detail how to perform routine and some advanced maintenance. Can someone remind me of the series? I'd like to get one for my 2006 Ranger so I can start taking on the maintenance as it gets older. Is it the Haynes I am thinking of?

Haynes is one of them, there's also Bentley, as well as Chilton. I haven't used Bentley, but Haynes and Chilton are both ... not great.

What you really want is this from Ford.

I have a stupid question: Is there a technical reason or difference in effectiveness based on where disc brake calipers are located?

My wife's Focus has them outside of the axles (in front of the front, behind the rear), but my (older) Mustang has them inside the axles (forward of the rear, behind the front). Does where they're located have any effect on braking performance, or is it simply packaging?

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Sep 6, 2017

# ¿ Sep 6, 2017 23:23

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Karma Comedian posted:

If I wanted to change the gears in a Dana 30 from 4.10 to 4.88 what all do I need to purchase? Will just the R&P be enough or do I need a new carrier and other sundries?

You're already above the carrier break, but I would definitely do bearings while you're in there as well, though, and probably look at a master install kit. You'll need to do the whole gear spacing/shims thing when doing this, as far as I'm aware.

# ¿ Jan 2, 2018 19:02

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

0toShifty posted:

How about a STUPID question...

Can a tire be damaged by coolant contamination? How about brakes?

My overflow cap kept blowing off when the headgasket was blown. It would all leak down on to the control arm and get spun all over the place by the wheel. Not fun.

The head gasket is fixed now, but the tire looks funny, it squeals more and the brakes feel weird.

Nah. The squealing is likely because of rust on the brake rotors from coolant, and that will scrape itself off. I'd probably wash the tire and maybe hit it with something like Armor All, but I've put way worse things on tires to no ill effect. You're fine.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 19:26

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Schroeder91 posted:

Is there another brand you'd recommend? I'm looking at Rock Auto. There's Gabriel, Monroe, KYB, and MOOG.

I'd trust KYB.

# ¿ Jun 8, 2018 17:23

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Seems extraordinarily unlikely, but is it possible whatever was hit bumped the petcock just enough to cause it to divest itself of coolant, but you happened to close it after?

How quickly did the light come on after hitting the object? Are there any visible marks that you could use to trace what the object hit?

# ¿ Jun 29, 2018 18:15

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

LingcodKilla posted:

Kei?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=kei+car

# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 20:07

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

melon cat posted:

Stupid questions about automotive coolant. 2007 Corolla and 2009 Elantra, in case it matters:

Can I use 99.6% distilled water instead of de-ionized water from the auto parts store to mix in with my coolant concentrate? Asking because there's a local water filtration store thast sells distilled water for 17 cents per litre, which is stupid cheap compared to the deionized water from the local parts store.

How long does an opened container of coolant (1 pre-mixed, 1 concentrate) last after being opened? I have two bottles that I opened November 2016 and stored in the garage (live in Canada, so we get weather extremes).

Distilled water is fine, and I'd use those without worry as long as they look and smell the same.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 20:42

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

SlayVus posted:

Having some issues with my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I took it, a couple months ago, to a mechanics to get the U joints replaced. Ever since then I've had bad vibrations in my vehicle at high speeds(60+). I just took it to another company today to ask them to look at this and they only thing they came back with is that maybe the transmission mounts are bad and need to be replaced. They said they didn't find anything wrong with the alignment or the tires or the axles. They did some test driving themselves and said that once they held it at speed for a little bit it would stop vibrating, I never held speed because I was afraid I would damage something.

Is there any other possible reason why the whole vehicle would be vibrating like this? It doesn't seem to be linked to engine speed because I can cruise up to 70 and let it idle like down a hill with RPMs under 1500 and it'll still vibrate and it'll drive in a straight line.

So, this piece is pretty key. If it started when that work was done, it's either a part they used/replaced, or something they touched while doing it. Which U-joints got replaced? They can definitely cause vibrations, and I'd definitely suspect those first. If it's 4wd, and the u-joint replaced was on the front driveshaft, you can just take it out and drive without it to troubleshoot. If they're the axle u-joints, you're probably going to have to take them out to find out. Regardless, I'd be shocked if it WASN'T the u-joints - the likelyhood of something else failing just as they do that work that causes issues that those can cause is pretty low.

Kibbles n Shits posted:

edit: nvm

Another edit for a question: Recently I replaced inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, wheel hubs, and swaybar endlinks on my 02' Dakota (RWD), then I put it in the shop for an alignment and new tires. For the first week or two, it drove fantastic, handled bumps like a champ and felt planted. But the past few days it feels really awful to drive again. It's clunky over bumps again and will pull to the left and right and just feel as lovely as it did before. I put it back up in the air and double checked the torque on everything, all the new parts still look good. How long are new shocks supposed to last?

I haven't replaced the rear shocks quite yet so I haven't ruled out my brain just being dumb and thinking the front is the problem when it's actually the rear, but the jerky wheel/vibrations and clunking has me nervous that something is botched I just can't figure out what.

I think you figured this out (due to the "nvm"), but just in case - this is definitely something not tightened. It may not be one of the new parts, but something they had to touch to get to it, but recheck. Suspension parts love to loosen back up after a couple days, and it's absolutely something you should go over with a fine-toothed comb.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

How bad is this

Fix it sooner rather than later. The piece pictured is the boot that keeps grease/lubrication in your CV joint, which is allows force to transfer and turn your wheel. The failure mode varies, but it can encompass up to "the wheel falls off" pretty realistically. You might have 10k miles left, you might have 1. edit: Is it clicking yet? (Usually when you turn away from the wheel, especially as you accelerate, it will rapidly click.)

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Aug 31, 2018

# ¿ Aug 31, 2018 20:44

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

kid sinister posted:

I hate this truck. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It had a 5th wheel tailgate once upon a time that was beat to hell, which also beat the hell out of my back bed corners. I'm trying to put a brand new regular tailgate on it. I used a ratchet strap to pull the bottoms back into shape, but now the top corners are too close! I'm trying to figure out how to move the top of the back right corner outward again. I tried to put a ratchet strap around a tree, but the truck's suspension took all of the strap tension instead of that corner. Any ideas?

Securely strap a 2x4 to the top rail, hit it with a sledgehammer.

Or, if you really hate the truck, skip the 2x4.

If that doesn't work, a hi-lift / farm jack should be able to sort it out. You'll have to add some careful bracing to protect the paint and (maybe) extend the reach.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2018 23:21

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Have you tried McMaster Carr?

If it�s truly just a bolt, they almost assuredly have a (likely superior) replacement. It won�t be a matter of searching the part number, however, so much as searching dimensions and characteristics.

Edit: also, what is it? I�m going to a junkyard next weekend and if I can find one, I�ll ship it to you.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2018 01:46

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

You can definitely fix that yourself.

First, zip tie the connectors tight, that's sufficient to run on. If you really want to fix it, either source the pigtails new (who knows where or how much) or go to a junkyard and cut them off a like model. There's a decent chance those plugs are not just on that model.

You can probably just rebuild the connectors, but I'm not sure what that particular one is called - kastein may know, he knows way too much about plugs.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2018 23:50

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Karma Comedian posted:

Now that I’m driving the jeep more I’m noticing it pulls to one side when I let off the gas, and corrects when I give it gas again. Is that motor mounts?

Do you have a rear locker?

# ¿ Oct 9, 2018 00:46

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# ¿ May 15, 2024 13:44

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

wesleywillis posted:

If its cold as gently caress, its probably nothing to do with the AC itself and everything to do with the vents. Does it do the same when the heat is on? What about vent positions? Floor vents? Defroster vents? Still not blowing much?
If so, then check that the fan is working and then I guess look for clogs/leaks in the vent routing.

This, and definitely consistent with "blower motor" and inconsistent with "vacuum leak".

# ¿ Oct 12, 2018 18:14

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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